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Educate me on files please

signcrafter

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I've used files here and there for different things and have a few around but don't really know the ins and outs of them. I just ordered a forney 10" mill ******* file from amazon. Didn't really know what to order. There is mill files, machinist files, ******* files, maintenance files, single cut, double cut, half round, flat, round, carded, American pattern, rasp file, second cut, slim taper, etc. What the heck do I need to know about different files other then flat is flat and round is round, and where to use the different ones? What are the common ones I should have. And what is a good brand. The Forney I bought is made in china but got decent reviews on amazon. Does Forney make a decent file or is there better brands out there? I thought I remember reading that Nicholson quality went down also a few years ago.
 
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CWP1616L

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What the heck do I need to know about different files other then flat is flat and round is round, and where to use the different ones?

What you need to know is that they're designed to cut on the forward push stroke only, not on the back stroke. Push the file forward, lift up off the work piece, then pull the file back in mid air to get ready for the next stroke.
 

Gregg33

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Nicholson is like the Chevy of files. The ones that were made in Canada I heard were the best, many were also U.S. made. But like alot of companies Nicholson sold out ( I believe to Cooper) and production went to Brazil, Mexico and possibly now China (maybe some1 can verify). Still though Nicholson is the best known brand. Most of the files I have, I bought used for very cheap, usually included in lots of tools I purchased. Probably 1/3 of them were rusted or worn out junk and went in the scrap bucket, but many were like new as well.
 

blackz26

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How can you tell the difference between the forward stroke and back stroke? I picked up a small handful of USA Nicholson files for .50 the other week.
 

d.mcfarland

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How can you tell the difference between the forward stroke and back stroke? I picked up a small handful of USA Nicholson files for .50 the other week.

The forward stroke is the one in which you push the file, so your grip is going away from your body.
 

thinmac

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One on end of the file there's either a handle or a prong. Hold that end close to you, and push away. Pushing the wrong way won't take much force, because the teeth aren't cutting. Pushing the right way will take more force, since they are. If you rub the file the wrong way or scrub with it you'll bend down the teeth, and the file will pretty quickly become useless.

Unless you're doing fine work, ******* cut is the way to go. I keep a few shapes on hand, all in a ******* cut: flat (with one edge ground down), round, half oval, square, and three on square (triangular). If I were only to get one, I'd get the half oval.

-Aaron
 
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signcrafter

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Thanks guys. I'll have to watch those videos later. I am hoping to learn a little more about different files and what makes each one special.
 

Sick Puppy

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Nicholson is like the Chevy of files. The ones that were made in Canada I heard were the best, many were also U.S. made. But like alot of companies Nicholson sold out ( I believe to Cooper) and production went to Brazil, Mexico and possibly now China (maybe some1 can verify).
I can confirm that the Nicholson files sold here in Bunnings in Australia are either Chinese or "Australian assembled"
 

Kevin54

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I like single cut mill ******* files. They don't remove a lot of material and I use them on mostly aluminum anyways.

Another think to keep around is a piece of chalk. Rub your file down with it if using it on aluminum or soft materials and it will keep the file from loading up.

I'll post up a couple of pics later as to a how to use and how not to use. They're on my other computer. But if you use a file longways on a piece, the file tends to load along the length. If you have a part in a lathe, most people will run the file longways on a spinning part. If your files do not have handles, there is a very easy chance of hitting a chuck jaw and driving the tang into and most likely through the palm of your hand. Not a pretty site as I have witnessed it twice in my life. And no it wasn't me.. I was taught many years ago to use a file crossways on a part, similar to how one would use a drawknife. It removes material quicker and less chance of loading up. Also if you use the file on a rotating piece in the lathe, and you hold the file paralled to the bed of the lathe, you can file your part very easily, and if the file hits a chuck jaw, it will knock the file sideways and rotate it in your hand and not drive the tank through your hand.
 

Kevin54

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If one files like in the first pic, notice where the tang of the file is laying. A lot of people don't want to spend the money on file handles, don't like file handles because they take up too much room in a drawer, and a list of other excuses.

If you use the file sideways like in the third picture, there is no chance of driving the tang in your hand if you hit a chuck jaw. It also prevents the file from loading up and you can actually remove more material faster using it that way.
 
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signcrafter

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Thanks for the pictures Kevin. I don't have a lathe but does this info apply to hand filing also? It's kind of hard to tell the angle from your picture but is the file 90 degrees to your part or some other angle?
 

Kevin54

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Thanks for the pictures Kevin. I don't have a lathe but does this info apply to hand filing also? It's kind of hard to tell the angle from your picture but is the file 90 degrees to your part or some other angle?

Just about 90 to the part. And yes, even filing by hand on a piece, going 90 to the edge you are filing removes material nicely without loading up.
 
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