Effective Sand Blaster Option

[OccupantRJ]

Read post #12. The subject is actually about both. Most cabinet units are suction type, so clearing the media hose via blocking the nozzle with a finger works fine. To clarify: this method should not be used on a pressure feed unit.

 

[Showkey]

By the way.......The Silica issue and dust from blasting is NOT ......BS.........you can **** yourself up with the debris from blasting. Yes.....safety is for sissies, just ask Darwin.

 

[dr_clyde]

You can't back feed air to a pressure pot style system with your finger over the nozzle.

You CAN (and should occasionally) with a siphon or venturi feed.

A pressure pot style has the compressed air going into the pot (duh) and forcing the sand out the nozzle with it. There is only one tube supplying both sand and air to the nozzle, so there is nowhere for the blocked air to go other than through your finger. This is the style Marc is referring to.

A siphon feed has a separate air line and sand line. If you were to block the nozzle with your gloved finger, the air simply diverts backward up the sand line and blows up into the reservoir of sand. This is the style of gun typically found in a small blast cabinet. This is the style ZRX61 is talking about.

They are very different mechanisms, and you need to know what you have before you start jamming your finger in places. (which is good life advice anyway, really) One works great and self cleans, the other really, really hurts.

 

[Mike W.]

I have a rusty old jeep I'm restoring and have lots of rust to remove. i;m always looking for an excuse to get a nice new tool. I know many use the wire brushes, but is there a sand blaster (short of the mobile snad blasting rigs) that is effective and reasonably priced? Do the harbor freight units work at all? Any other options?

Thanks
Scott

Have you tried wet blasting? It's very powerful and the attachment only cost $100

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Jayhawk_Aviator]

Anyone ever used the blast master? For these pressure pot units, is it practical to assume you can recover the media if using a tarp?

 

[Marctrees]

Blast Master ?

If you are talking about a Marco unit they are very well made top of the line... $$$.

Ya, you can recover but you WILL need to buy a sieve that fits on a 5 gal bucket the appropriate mesh size.

Otherwise even one oversize pebble or debris can plug the nozzle.

Marc

something like this - https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=24071

 

[Marctrees]

I always use inexpensive silica, so have never recovered.

Seems to me a guy would want not just a single fine filter, but also a coarser pre filter.

Two step filtering operation.

Otherwise will be aggravatingly slow.

And don't get TOO fine of one, no need and agonizingly slowwww.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

And NO question make that supplied air blasting hood w the tiny DEDICATED shop vac w small 25' hose.

I use one of those little $20 "Router speed controllers" otherwise too much velocity... head gets super cold kinda like air tool use in just even cool weather freezes hand.

Arrange the hose run up your back and under the canvas hood blowing up into the hardhat liner.

Marc

 

[evintho]

Everyone's talking about using sand and the dangers of silica. News flash! Sand ***** when it comes to blasting, especially if you're blasting a rusty frame! One 50 lb bag of sand is $4-$5. Go to Tractor Supply and buy bags of Black Diamond coal slag. Get the fine stuff. $7.99 per bag. You'll use 1/3 as much as sand, no silica and does an incredible job!

 

[Jayhawk_Aviator]

Based on what I've been able to deduce, I'm tempted to buy a HF unit, replace the T on the bottom with a Wye, then replace the gun with a Boron tip / gun you can get on Ebay. Should be able to do all that under $200 vs $400 for the Texas Blaster (+ shipping)

 

[Marctrees]

Jay - Sounds like you're comin along.. but keep Googlin and you will see the Boron tip has no overall advantage for you.

Tech testing shows they do not last near long as many claim.

A half dozen pack ALC branded ceramic lasted me my total frame up Jeep project.

Marc

 

[OccupantRJ]

Based on what I've been able to deduce, I'm tempted to buy a HF unit, replace the T on the bottom with a Wye, then replace the gun with a Boron tip / gun you can get on Ebay. Should be able to do all that under $200 vs $400 for the Texas Blaster (+ shipping)

I have a full blown pot blaster and 110 cfm compressor setup, but live where it is not the best neighborly option. I bought one of the pressure washer sandblast attachments, but I was less than inpressed with it’s performance trying to **** sand up the feed attachment.

I have been considering doing what you are thinking about here with a small blast pot because it is easier to move and setup for smaller jobs. I want to feed the pressure washer attachment from the blast pot with a low pressure to insure a consistent grit feed, and have the water propel the grit and keep the dust down.

I would also consider pulling rust preventative through the pressure washer auxillilary feed to hopefully prevent flash rusting.

 

[MuhThugga]

I've had a Barrel Blaster for a few years now, and it has served me well. It's like $300 and made in the US.

 

[Dave88LX]

Based on what I've been able to deduce, I'm tempted to buy a HF unit, replace the T on the bottom with a Wye, then replace the gun with a Boron tip / gun you can get on Ebay. Should be able to do all that under $200 vs $400 for the Texas Blaster (+ shipping)

Looking at blaster threads. Holy **** I wish the Texas Blaster was $400. The base unit is $1,000 ($995) or $1145 with accessories!
Good lord. I would like something good in the $400-500 range.

 

[930dreamer]

I picked up two used industial blast cabinets for $500, one is 60" wide.