Elec. sockets rated for heavy duty use.

[socketjockey]

Can someone recommend a brand of electrical socket that can stand up to repeated plug-ins/un-plugs per day? I like leviton products for in-home use, but don't like having to replace my garage sockets every two years due to wear.

 

[Random Guy]

Leviton makes good stuff. Are you using the $0.50 residential grade outlets, or the good commercial ones? The commercial ones should last longer than that.

 

[socketjockey]

The commercial ones should last longer than that.

Please specify "commercial ones." I am only aware of what HD has on the shelf and they're unaware of heavy duty ones.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Commercial grade receptacles are also called specification grade or spec grade. Leviton makes them, along with a number of other companies. I've seen them at HD, but if you can't find them there try a local electrical supply store.

 

[mrb]

you want the 5x62 model, from leviton, bryant, or hubbell. The model numbers are 5262 for 15 amp and 5362 for 20 amp (note, you can use 15 amp duplex receptacles on a 20 amp circuit, and 20 amp duplex receptacles are no more 'heavy duty' than 15 amp, the pin configuration is the only thing different) These are the federal spec 'industrial grade' type, the only thing better is hospital grade but for garage / shop use there is no additional benefit to make the extra cost worth it. Home stores are typically pretty expensive for these, I would try an electrical wholesaler.

 

[sberry]

They had some commercial grade, in box of 10 for about 1.50 or so at one of the box stores. I thought of getting some but have several of the 50 cent varieties on my bench that see use daily, thousands of cycles.

 

[mrb]

Commercial grade receptacles are also called specification grade or spec grade. Leviton makes them, along with a number of other companies. I've seen them at HD, but if you can't find them there try a local electrical supply store.

actually commercial grade and industrial / spec grade are two very different classes of device. A commercial grade device would be a BR20 from leviton for example. Industrial grade has nylon face that wont break, better wire clamping, and higher contact retention force.

In this picture, the hubbell on the left is industrial grade, the leviton on the right is commercial grade.

 

[socketjockey]

Thanks. I checked out the #5362 and that looks like the one. $10+ per doesn't seem that bad. Nothing I hate more than a cord/plug coming loose with only a slight plull. Seems like a no brainer to specify these in a new shop.

 

[mrb]

Thanks. I checked out the #5362 and that looks like the one. $10+ per doesn't seem that bad. Nothing I hate more than a cord/plug coming loose with only a slight plull. Seems like a no brainer to specify these in a new shop.

you can get the leviton 5362 much cheaper than $10. I can sell them for $5, but I only have black, red, and blue and they have no plaster ears (so your boxes would have to be perfectly flush or use spacers)

 

[mrb]

heres some place selling them for $4.95 http://www.levitonsupplies.com/le5durewh532.html

 

[Falcon67]

Can someone recommend a brand of electrical socket that can stand up to repeated plug-ins/un-plugs per day? I like leviton products for in-home use, but don't like having to replace my garage sockets every two years due to wear.

FWIW - I have cheap-o home grade plugs in my shop and after 13 years, not a single replacement or issue due to "wear". The ones on the benches get a hell of a lot of use. A couple are stacked with $3.95 Walmart special multi-sockets, no problems with those either. If it's a commercial operation, sure pay extra. If it's a home shop - pay more if you like, I don't think you'll get your money's worth unless you like to yank the cord out from the far end like it was an Indiana Jones bull whip.

 

[BioHazard]

Seems like a no brainer to specify these in a new shop.

For me it's like sweeping the floor for the first time before I move in. It's the first thing I notice..."yep...those outlets are gonna have to go". Honestly I think the very first day in my current shop I was replacing the outlets with industrial Levitons and metal covers.

 

[socketjockey]

If it's a commercial operation, sure pay extra.

This could be a whole other thread. "Home shop duty vs. commercial/industrial duty."

 

[mrb]

FWIW - I have cheap-o home grade plugs in my shop and after 13 years, not a single replacement or issue due to "wear". The ones on the benches get a hell of a lot of use. A couple are stacked with $3.95 Walmart special multi-sockets, no problems with those either. If it's a commercial operation, sure pay extra. If it's a home shop - pay more if you like, I don't think you'll get your money's worth unless you like to yank the cord out from the far end like it was an Indiana Jones bull whip.

I really notice a difference where I have them. Yeah, $1.50 outlets will work, but the better ones are well, better. Like using a $20 ratchet vs a $80 ratchet. Using the good receptacles is a very small cost in the grand scheme of things, especially considering they are part of the building and will be there for 20 years...

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Leviton PRO GRADE. Those are exceptional receptacles. Hubbell makes similar ones, and so does Cooper/Eagle, though I don't think they are quite as good.

Charles

 

[Falcon67]

>Like using a $20 ratchet vs a $80 ratchet.
Careful - I have a no name Chinese swap meet $5 3/8 drive ratchet that has outlasted 2 Craftsman 3/8 models - so far.

I would never argue against better equipment and re-reading my post, it does kinda have that tone to it. Hard to convey your real intent sometimes in print. I just wanted to offer that I used "contractor pack" outlets and they have survived without an issue. The post showing $5 for a commercial grade part would certainly be worth consideration.

 

[Ironcrow]

This should impress your pansy friends:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3D210?Pid=search

 

[mrb]

This should impress your pansy friends:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3D210?Pid=search

why, because its yellow, because its CR, or because its $65? The latter being due to the fact Grainger is the LAST place to buy electrical material unless you work in a plant, are spending money that is not yours, and could care less about how much anything costs.

 

[mrb]

Leviton PRO GRADE. Those are exceptional receptacles. Hubbell makes similar ones, and so does Cooper/Eagle, though I don't think they are quite as good.

Charles

Leviton Pro Grade is the retail packaging of the BR15 and BR20 commercial grade receptacles. While much better than the $0.50 residential grade devices, they are inferior to the 5262 and 5362. They are a nice middle ground for those who want a better receptacle but cannot spend $5ea on the good ones.

 

[trbomax]

This should impress your pansy friends:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3D210?Pid=search

I would expect not a bit less from a scam outfit like Hubbell.The key wourd in the discription is "marine"

 

[Norcal]

If you want the best, buy "Hospital Grade" there are really only 2 grades per UL, residential & hospital grade, "Spec Grade" is only a manufacturers grade. A low end Leviton (Everything Leviton is low grade) hospital grade can be bought for around $10.00 each.

If one really wants HD wiring devices try a search for Hubbell IEC Pin & Sleeve wiring devices, I guarantee you will choke on the price.

 

[mrb]

I would expect not a bit less from a scam outfit like Hubbell.The key wourd in the discription is "marine"

scam outfit like hubbell? please elaborate....

 

[mrb]

If you want the best, buy "Hospital Grade" there are really only 2 grades per UL, residential & hospital grade, "Spec Grade" is only a manufacturers grade. A low end Leviton (Everything Leviton is low grade) hospital grade can be bought for around $10.00 each.

UL has nothing to do with quality or reliability. "spec grade" is not something the manufacturers made up. The federal government has specifications for all sorts of things, the one for receptacles is WC596.

I would have to disagree that "everything leviton is low grade". True, their residential grade devices leave much to be desired. The higher end products (most of my experience has been with their industrial grade connectors and receptacles) are just as good as the other manufacturers.

 

[Norcal]

Leviton is just a Hubbell wannabe their Pin & Sleeve ****, (but they don't manufacture them they are of Europeon origin). I just prefer a better quality then them, I will admit to using Leviton GFCI receptacles though, but would rather have Pass & Seymour.

 

[mrb]

Leviton is just a Hubbell wannabe their Pin & Sleeve ****, (but they don't manufacture them they are of Europeon origin). I just prefer a better quality then them, I will admit to using Leviton GFCI receptacles though, but would rather have Pass & Seymour.

havent used leviton pin and sleeve. use ALOT of straight blade and twistlock plugs, connectors, and receptacles. the quality has been fine.

 

[Vinko]

Leviton PRO GRADE. Those are exceptional receptacles. Hubbell makes similar ones, and so does Cooper/Eagle, though I don't think they are quite as good.

Charles

I've seen the Leviton Pro Grade for about $7 or so at HD.

I've gotten the industrial grade Hubbell's from McMaster when they were spec'd, for about $15-$20.

 

[Vinko]

The latter being due to the fact Grainger is the LAST place to buy electrical material unless you work in a plant, are spending money that is not yours, and could care less about how much anything costs.

Quoted for truth

 

[Vinko]

the only thing better is hospital grade but for garage / shop use there is no additional benefit to make the extra cost worth it.

MRB: can you elaborate on the qualitative differences between hospital grade and industrial?

Also: I was talking to an electrician who said the Hospital grade were grounded "differently" then the others. I didn't quite understand the distinction, or what he was getting at.

 

[Vinko]

Leviton is just a Hubbell wannabe their Pin & Sleeve ****, (but they don't manufacture them they are of Europeon origin). I just prefer a better quality then them, I will admit to using Leviton GFCI receptacles though, but would rather have Pass & Seymour.

P&S has a cheapo line too, don't they?

 

[mrb]

MRB: can you elaborate on the qualitative differences between hospital grade and industrial?

Also: I was talking to an electrician who said the Hospital grade were grounded "differently" then the others. I didn't quite understand the distinction, or what he was getting at.

basically they have even higher contact retention, and the internal grounding is a little different. imo not much added benefit in a shop setting to justify the cost.

 

[sberry]

and the internal grounding is a little different.

Depending on the recept it can be a lot different, I am sure hospital grade is a generic term but some are insulated ground recepts for specialty equipment.

 

[mrb]

Depending on the recept it can be a lot different, I am sure hospital grade is a generic term but some are insulated ground recepts for specialty equipment.

isolated ground receptacles are a whole different animal (which arent really used much anymore), and are available in spec grade and hospital grade. Hospital grade is not a generic term, it means the receptacle meets a certain list of standards.

 

[Random Guy]

P&S has a cheapo line too, don't they?

They sure do!

 

[mrb]

P&S has a cheapo line too, don't they?

all the manufacturers have a cheapo line, including Hubbell. The key is to ignore those products and use the good ones

 

[Vinko]

Anyone know of a really good discount outfit on the web? I wouldn't mind having about 20 of the good Hubbell 5362 (20 amp) and some of the 15. A lot of little things are just starting to **** the bed on this 50 or 60 year old building. The interesting this is that some of the old American-made lighting stuff, though apparently inefficient, is built like a tank. I'm always impressed when I take down a ballast or a sheet metal housing for lighting how well made the stuff is. And I try to re-use the sheet metal whenever I can.

 

[Norcal]

Anyone know of a really good discount outfit on the web? I wouldn't mind having about 20 of the good Hubbell 5362 (20 amp) and some of the 15. A lot of little things are just starting to **** the bed on this 50 or 60 year old building. The interesting this is that some of the old American-made lighting stuff, though apparently inefficient, is built like a tank. I'm always impressed when I take down a ballast or a sheet metal housing for lighting how well made the stuff is. And I try to re-use the sheet metal whenever I can.

Try Ebay.............

 

[hidollartoys]

Now I have receptacle envy.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Anyone know of a really good discount outfit on the web? I wouldn't mind having about 20 of the good Hubbell 5362 (20 amp) and some of the 15.

Do you really need 20 amp receptacles? 15 amp receptacles can be used on 20 amp circuits (as long as there are more than two, and a standard duplex receptacle counts as two.) Plus, virtually all power tools, appliances, etc. come with 15 amp plugs so you don't gain anything.

 

[Worsedog]

This should impress your pansy friends:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3D210?Pid=search

For that price it better blow me everytime I plug the drill in.

 

[Ironcrow]

why, because its yellow, because its CR, or because its $65? The latter being due to the fact Grainger is the LAST place to buy electrical material unless you work in a plant, are spending money that is not yours, and could care less about how much anything costs.

It's the price. I was being sarcastic. I don't really think your friends are pansies or that they'll really be impressed (unless they are impressed by your stupidity of spending that much).

For that price it better blow me everytime I plug the drill in.

Exact same phrasing ran through my mind