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Electric Box Spacer/Extension?

D45

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This "sunken" dual switch box is annoying me...........what can I do to have the face of the switch box flush with the paneling?

It is inside my garage:


20180103_222736_zpsli94zyky.jpg
 
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Bad Habit

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Looks to be a typical 4-S box. If you want to keep the Raised "industrial" cover you could get a 4-S-Ext box, that would push the face out ~1-1/2". Or you could use a 2 gang mud-ring of the appropriate depth to match the plywood face, then use a typical faceplate, stainless or plastic.
 
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D45

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I like the metal cover, so I would like to keep that

I just need a two gang mud-ring? Does the mud-ring just get screwed onto the preexisting box?

Do they sell an over sized metal plate, so that I can cover and seal up the gap in the plywood?
 

Norcal

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A standard stainless steel plate may cover the opening if a raised ring of the proper depth is is used, it will be close one way or the other.
 

Bad Habit

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The raised cover you have mounts to the box and holds the devices, so if you want to keep that you would need the extension which will stick out from the plywood. I don't know of a shallower 4-s extension that would only extend out the ~3-4" to 1" to the face of the plywood.

A Mud Ring would hold the devices and you could could get the correct depth to match the face of the plywood, but you would then use a typical flush faceplate (which could be oversized to cover the opening). That type of faceplate then attaches to the devices, rather than the box itself.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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The raised cover you have mounts to the box and holds the devices, so if you want to keep that you would need the extension which will stick out from the plywood. I don't know of a shallower 4-s extension that would only extend out the ~3-4" to 1" to the face of the plywood.

A Mud Ring would hold the devices and you could could get the correct depth to match the face of the plywood, but you would then use a typical flush faceplate (which could be oversized to cover the opening). That type of faceplate then attaches to the devices, rather than the box itself.

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 

Bad Habit

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The mud ring you posted would work, gives you some flexibility to line up with the plywood face too. You would then just use a standard faceplate. Looks like the plywood is cut close enough that you wouldn't need an oversize one
 
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D45

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The mud ring you posted would work, gives you some flexibility to line up with the plywood face too. You would then just use a standard faceplate. Looks like the plywood is cut close enough that you wouldn't need an oversize one

Because the two switches would then mount to this mud-ring?

I might also install new switches also at the same time, one has been giving me issues
 

Bad Habit

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Because the two switches would then mount to this mud-ring?


Correct If you do reuse the existing ones, double check that the mounting screws are still there (the ones on the plaster ears). Many time they get taken out when being used with a raised cover like that. (8-32 x ~3/4" I believe)
 

dscheidt

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Correct If you do reuse the existing ones, double check that the mounting screws are still there (the ones on the plaster ears). Many time they get taken out when being used with a raised cover like that. (8-32 x ~3/4" I believe)

6-32 to mount a device to a box; 8-32 for the screws in corner of a box for the cover. 10-32 (usually) for the ground screw hole in the back of the box.
 

75gmck25

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Standard metal mud rings come with 1/2", 5/8", 1" and 1 1/4" extensions, and I'm sure there are other versions. It seems like one of the standard ones might work to extend it out level with the wood, and then just add an oversized wall plate.

Bruce
 
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D45

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Isn't always a mystery what lurks behind the wall plates?

One switch is marked "663-WGU", which appears to be a 15amp 3 way made by
Legrand-Pass & Seymour under their Trademaster line..........$1.50 switch

https://www.menards.com/main/electr...5-amp-3-way-switch/663wgu/p-1444451143930.htm

The other switch is marked: "Q1303V", which I cant find any info on

As you see, there is a 2" piece of wire not even connected to anything.

If this small project turns out good, I will then move over and do the other switch/outlet box


20180106_105317_zpsbpjimoxv.jpg



20180106_105307_zpscclmia6r.jpg



20180106_105354_zpso7ewjkke.jpg
 
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D45

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Standard metal mud rings come with 1/2", 5/8", 1" and 1 1/4" extensions, and I'm sure there are other versions. It seems like one of the standard ones might work to extend it out level with the wood, and then just add an oversized wall plate

Thanks for the info......is the extension amount as simple as measuring from the metal box to the outer face of the siding?
 

alfredeneuman

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is the extension amount as simple as measuring from the metal box to the outer face of the siding?

If you choose to use switch (mud) rings and a flush cover plate, you are required to have the box flush to, or project beyond any flammable surface (the siding).
 

mrjaw14

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These are what you're probably looking for. available at the local big box store.
 

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haptiq

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511bf13f1ce74ac04d5eaa4e431809d2.jpg7e74c714a8a20e068d081f41dc26d13e.jpg

I wish I had before pictures but mine were recessed slightly and the lack of overhang that left the drywall edge exposed drove me nuts. I made these with a holesaw kit, drill bits, MAC shears and some aluminum scraps from my buddies shop. It took about an hour, I spent many hours searching for the prefab fix first.
 

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Norcal

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The siding looks like 5/8" so I would use a 3/4" raised ring.
 
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D45

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I bought an adjustable ring, new metal wall plate and two new commercial grade switches

I will get it installed tomorrown
 

Norcal

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Isn't always a mystery what lurks behind the wall plates?

One switch is marked "663-WGU", which appears to be a 15amp 3 way made by
Legrand-Pass & Seymour under their Trademaster line..........$1.50 switch

https://www.menards.com/main/electr...5-amp-3-way-switch/663wgu/p-1444451143930.htm

The other switch is marked: "Q1303V", which I cant find any info on

As you see, there is a 2" piece of wire not even connected to anything.

If this small project turns out good, I will then move over and do the other switch/outlet box


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m251/D45_2006/House%20Pics/20180106_105317_zpsbpjimoxv.jpg[IMG]


[IMG]http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m251/D45_2006/House%20Pics/20180106_105307_zpscclmia6r.jpg


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m251/D45_2006/House%20Pics/20180106_105354_zpso7ewjkke.jpg[IMG][/QUOTE]

That 2" tail is the result when stranded conductors are wrapped around screw.
 
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D45

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Meaning what......I cannot find where it broke off from or why it is there
 

mm08822

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Meaning what......I cannot find where it broke off from or why it is there

It is part of a method used to terminate stranded conductors under a screw without having the strands walk out from under the screwhead as it is tightened.
That 2" tail is keeping the strands together and the insulation should extend past the copper to act as an insulator.
Nothing broke off from anywhere.

You can find a thread or 2 in GJ discussing this.
 
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D45

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Good info to know, thanks!!

It is such a mix of color and wire (strands and solids) all over the shop, half conduit and half Romex

I see that some people also wrap the outlets and switches with electrical tape, after the connections are made

I just turned the heat on in the shop and will start working out there soon
 
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D45

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Adjustable ring won't work, hits some of the conduit nuts and won't recess deep enough

I just shot some foam around the two boxes (I took the other switch and outlet apart also)
Once it dries and I trim the excess back, I will measure for a normal mud ring

I am thinking 1" will work
 
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D45

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Do I want the extended mud ring flush with the paneling or recessed slightly
 
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D45

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3/4" worked about perfectly.......just need to grab one more for the other box

Thanks for all the info and input!


20180107_170539_zpszegk7lca.jpg
 

rburke65

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I would want the ring flush as it's the only thing that is going to keep your switches looking as they should when you attach the switch plate. Flush is always preferred. This is why you should have decided ....on a new build.....on the thickness of your finish wall material (drywall, OSB, etc) before you set the depth of you boxes.
 
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Norcal

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W/ rings, add 1/8" to the finish material thickness, for example: 5/8" use 3/4", for 1/2" use 5/8", this allows the ring to be flush with the finished surface, and not have floating devices.
 

PoorOwner

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It's marked "Eagle"

20180110_204330_zps6dk6bfl9.jpg

Does anyone know how the ground get broken off a chunk like that. My house has some of this and it’s almost like someone deliberately go around and done it with a plier. Is it dangerous?
 

Bad Habit

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30+ years of the ground prong hitting it being inserted and/or when being yanked out. Probably at a slight enough angle that it just snapped off that section eventually. It's just the plastic/lexan face, the contact should be still in place
 
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D45

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Good info the know, especially how old it is!

Glad I swapped in a new outlet
 
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