Electric Buffers

[ricleh]

We recently had much of our family wagon repainted to repair small scuff and stone chips. Now i can see in the sunlight swirls and marks in the paint that need a decent once-over with an electric buffer. I've bought myself some 3M Finesse-it and Perfect-it to do this, and also some 3M ploishing pads.

Only issue left is the buffer itself. I don't want something cheap, i want something that'll last me and something i can make my money back from.

This is what i have in mind, a Makita 9227CB 180mm 1200watt variable-speed buffer.

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.as...cb-1200w-180mm-Sander-Polisher-Var-Speed-240v

Any ideas? I've never bought a polisher/buffer before, so don't know so much of what to look for.

Thanks guys,
Moose.

Since you are in Europe why don't you take a look at the Fein options. They make the best quality power tools in the world IMO.

Rick

 

[moogoob]

Here's my first attempt with the makita (BO6040) i used to sand my floors.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...truck-now-machine-polishing-abused-paint.html

...and i love autopia

 

[l_bilyk]

I like this one

http://autogeek.net/flex-lk603vvb-circular-polisher.html

or the same thing sold as a porter cable

 

[Vinko]

Bumping an old thread


Saw the Milwaukee 7/9" buffer (model 5460) on clearance for $199 at HD.

I noticed it was made in the USA, but even given that, is that price close to what they are full retail? I thought it was a pricing error. I can't find the 5460 in their current line-up.

Anyone have experience with this buffer?

 

[JayL]

Currently as I check, this Milwaukee 5460 is $194.22 at amazon.com.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002247Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I checked a lot of detailing forums before I purchased my rotary polisher. I did not encounter the Milwaukee model OP posted or if I did it was too obscure to remember. However the Makita 9227C (made in Japan) is mentioned a lot and with good remarks so this is what I bought. I am very pleased with it.

Others might have different experiences.

 

[Rusty Kustoms]

since this old thread has been brought back up I will add my professional advice. Use a rotary buffer, I use a makita or a snap on buffer, there are better and there are worse, most all will do the job. For buffing after wet sanding run at around 1800rpm with a wool pad and your choice of compound, I use 3m perfect-it. Follow that with a soft foam pad and some machine glaze, I use 3m swirl mark remover. Now here is the most important step, after machine glaze you need a hand glaze, I use wizzards shine master, but there are many other brands like race glaze. You put the glaze on by hand in a straight back and forth motion, you are not waxing here so a little goes a long way, do a little at a time and wipe it off quickly. Finish off with a spray detailer and a micro fiber cloth, I use wizzards mist and shine, many others work well. This is the best way to polish and not get swirl marks. I have painted many black cars and it has taken me years to figure out this method, nothing else works as well. For the OP, start at step 2 with the machine glaze as the body shop has already done the cutting with compound.

 

[russlaferrera]

Just to mention, Dynabrade makes an attachment #DYN61374, that converts a rotary to a DA . The bad part is they run about $140ish.

 

[russlaferrera]

Bumping an old thread


Saw the Milwaukee 7/9" buffer (model 5460) on clearance for $199 at HD.

I noticed it was made in the USA, but even given that, is that price close to what they are full retail? I thought it was a pricing error. I can't find the 5460 in their current line-up.

Anyone have experience with this buffer?

I just did a car with a 5460. Came out good. The car finish was poor, so anything was an improvement.I like the speed adjustment. Bought it refurb, from The Tool Warehouse @ $158

 

[jshillin]

This is an area I'm very familiar with!! I have a PC RO, Hitachi rotary and a Flex Forced Random Orbit. The Flex is the most expensive, but it's an awesome all around tool. I probably use it more than 50% of the time. If the paint is horrible or needs wetsanding, I break out the Hitachi, but if it's not bad or just needs a one step product, I use the flex. I really only use the PC with 3" and 4" spot pads for tight areas. All in all, if you don't have much experience and want a capable machine, get the Flex. The PC is a good, reliable machine, but it takes forever to get any real paint correction. The Rotary is by far the fastest, but it is the easiest to screw up.

 

[Monte]

I like this:

 

[smooth72]

I use both PC da and Makita rotary. I use PC to take the swirls out. If you want to take on a rotary it is a good practice to tape of corner and edges. There is something special about a nice flat polish job. Also I like throwing the extension cord over my shoulder, don't ever allow the polish to get dry will polishing.Good luck and take your time

 

[Stanger]

I always give the same advice, learn how to use a rotary. Practice, but don't be so afraid of it that you never learn. Too many people get stuck in the RO stage when they should be moving on getting better results faster with a rotary. Makita 9227 FTW.

EDIT: Also, learn how to finish with it. You shouldn't need to finish with your RO if you're good with the rotary.