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Electric chainsaw suggestions...

byoungblood

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Apr 6, 2011
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Berryville, VA
Old Craftsman one I had finally broke (the bolts securing the bar were only anchored into plastic, no wonder why it broke there) and so I'm in the market for a new chainsaw. I don't really use one often enough to justify a gas one, it is mainly just for cutting up limbs and doing more heavyweight trimming of some of our shrubs. If I need to take down a tree, I'm going to call someone to do it.

Looking at one with a 14-16" bar, I basically want something that is going to last more than a couple of years, but I'm not really wanting to spend pro grade money on one.
 
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Warrenator

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May 31, 2008
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781
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Newberg, OR
I have two remingtons, sure it is a low consumer level saw, but they are very convenient and have never given me any trouble. I prefer them over the gas models as it gives a more relaxing and less frantic vibe to the whole tree trimming process, maybe making it safer.
 

JT-3

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Jun 9, 2014
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69
Location
Austin TX
My electric 18" craftsman has seen fairly heavy duty use, if it were to break I'd buy another.
 

FORMUD

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Mar 18, 2013
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Clayton, Delaware
I have a Black and Decker that must have fallen off a truck in front of my house a few years ago. Seems to run fine. Mostly use it in the shop cutting up smaller logs and branches, when the weather outside is bad and I don't feel like running a gas saw.
 

J king

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Jun 1, 2013
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Ne oh
I have a Milwaukee .Bought it years ago to cut near the house but never used it.It was at a rental co going out of business auction.Very heavy duty.I believe an 18 or 20 inch bar.I have several good chains for it .would sell it cheap..shipping may **** tho.
 

PBCampbell

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Feb 2, 2009
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871
Location
WV
Makita used to be the best electric in the market for many years. Carvers and turners always had a particular fondness for these. For a seldom used tool though I would probably just buy for price.
 

johnwill

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Aug 2, 2008
Messages
20
Check out the Makita UC4030A. Researched electrics when I needed one last year. 16 inch, 14.5 amp, commercial grade.

This one has been berry berry good. To me. Thanks.
 

Monte

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Dec 23, 2008
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Germany
71839_0.jpg

Stihl.jpg
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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SE MI
Personally I would go with a Remington pole saw. The saw is removable from the pole, but it is very short.
 

Dave455

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Mar 19, 2013
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Sussex, England
The Stihl would be my first choice. Top quality, and they use the same chains and parts as some of the normal models so spares are never a problem, anywhere! Appreciate they are usually top price too!

Failing that I've seen Alpina saws here in the U.K. at reasonable prices. Alpina are a reputable Italian maker (I have one if their regular saws) and the electric look decent. Probably a notch above the 'garden grade'!
 

jjjrmx5

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Dec 30, 2010
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Cincinnati, OH
Husqvarna 316E. Inertia brake and other safety goodies. I love it! Very nice but pricey saw. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJTWDM/?tag=atomicindus08-20 And it is a 16 inch bar and chain.

Holy ****!

$299 discount and $349 retail?

It better las a f&*^%$# lifetime at that price.
$300 will get me a new Poulan elect AND a good new or gently used gas chainsaw to boot.

If not used but a few times a month max., anything big $$$ is overkill.

I run a Remington pole saw and a Poulan 14 or 16" that was $70 at Lowes.
Both have been flawless unless used but a novice and untrained user.


If used alot or it needs to move or you hve a large property, then you need to go gas.

If only stored in the garage and used a few times a year, no need thow $100 bills at it IMO.

And careful lending them out ot novice fewmal users. You get the tool back as a parts saw. LOLZ.
 

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shawhite

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May 28, 2014
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Husqvarna 316E. Inertia brake and other safety goodies. I love it! Very nice but pricey saw. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJTWDM/?tag=atomicindus08-20 And it is a 16 inch bar and chain.

I second this saw. We use them on a daily basis at work cutting utility poles and get an impressive lifespan. Does not hold a candle to my Stanley cs06 hydraulic but I have yet to see any saw that can. most of the guys on my crew abuse the heck out of the husky 316e (like no oil ever, seen them left in the rain on the front of the bucket, seen them smashed between the bucket and pole and they keep on ticking). Only trouble we have ever seen from them is the trigger/safety go bad. Easy cheap fix.
 

toolaholic

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Jul 26, 2012
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2,123
Location
PA
I second this saw. We use them on a daily basis at work cutting utility poles and get an impressive lifespan. Does not hold a candle to my Stanley cs06 hydraulic but I have yet to see any saw that can. most of the guys on my crew abuse the heck out of the husky 316e (like no oil ever, seen them left in the rain on the front of the bucket, seen them smashed between the bucket and pole and they keep on ticking). Only trouble we have ever seen from them is the trigger/safety go bad. Easy cheap fix.
wow that's awesome! Worse my saw has seen is when neighbor pinched chain and pulled saw free. The adjusting screw bought the farm. It bent. Easily fixed
. Now when he uses it I tighten bar w/ a long pattern 13 mm wrench as tight as I can.
 
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byoungblood

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Berryville, VA
Thanks for the suggestions, but let's stay under the $130 range or so. It is something that gets used maybe 2-3 times a year at most.

For those with the Remingtons, is it the newer or older models? I've been reading reviews on the newer ones and they seem to be mixed.

Does anyone know if the WORX and Poulan models (both available locally) are good?
 
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Parrothead

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Apr 27, 2014
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Earth
If you have a Sawzall just order pruning blades.That's all I use for limbs and the like.I bust out my Stihl 020 when things get real.

Yep, I thought I wanted a chainsaw too, but decided to go this route as well. I have pruning blades and I've even cut down some 15ft trees with my recip saw (not with pruning blade).
 

john3931

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Aug 11, 2014
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Location
Columbia, PA
I would look at the Poulan. It is not top end but you can get parts for it. For the little use it will get, I think it would last you a long time.
 

bcradio

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New Mexico
If you have a Sawzall just order pruning blades.That's all I use for limbs and the like.I bust out my Stihl 020 when things get real.

Without a doubt this is the way to go. Sawzalls have many other uses too if you don't have one yet. Get a 12" pruning blade and you'll be set for years at the rate it sounds like you'll use it at. I can cut down a 12" diameter tree in under a minute with mine.

Unless you just want another tool, which is perfectly understandable. :D
 

rlitman

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Oct 18, 2010
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Long Island
I used to keep around a cordless sawzall for pruning tasks. When I got a chainsaw, I dumped that thing on Craigslist.

The sawzall pruning blades cut big stuff like ****. A chain pulls the chips out of the cut, no matter how deep. A sawzall only pulls chips out of a cut as long as its stroke. With orbital action, it can cut relatively well over about double its stroke. Sawzall strokes range from 3/4" to as much as 1 1/2". Which explains why I've found that pruning small things works kind of well, but anything over 3" in diameter, I can cut faster with a hand saw (albeit with more effort).

I have to call BS on cutting a 12" diameter tree in under a minute. In fact, if you said 6", I'd still have to call BS on that, as 1 minute is a pretty tight time for that if we're talking about green wood (dead wood cuts much better with these). The reality is that after 1 minute of straight cutting, the blade will be trash.
 

Dust Devil

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Right next door to hell
I used to keep around a cordless sawzall for pruning tasks. When I got a chainsaw, I dumped that thing on Craigslist.

The sawzall pruning blades cut big stuff like ****. A chain pulls the chips out of the cut, no matter how deep. A sawzall only pulls chips out of a cut as long as its stroke. With orbital action, it can cut relatively well over about double its stroke. Sawzall strokes range from 3/4" to as much as 1 1/2". Which explains why I've found that pruning small things works kind of well, but anything over 3" in diameter, I can cut faster with a hand saw (albeit with more effort).

I have to call BS on cutting a 12" diameter tree in under a minute. In fact, if you said 6", I'd still have to call BS on that, as 1 minute is a pretty tight time for that if we're talking about green wood (dead wood cuts much better with these). The reality is that after 1 minute of straight cutting, the blade will be trash.

Totally agree with all of this.
 

bcradio

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Jan 30, 2012
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New Mexico
I used to keep around a cordless sawzall for pruning tasks. When I got a chainsaw, I dumped that thing on Craigslist.

The sawzall pruning blades cut big stuff like ****. A chain pulls the chips out of the cut, no matter how deep. A sawzall only pulls chips out of a cut as long as its stroke. With orbital action, it can cut relatively well over about double its stroke. Sawzall strokes range from 3/4" to as much as 1 1/2". Which explains why I've found that pruning small things works kind of well, but anything over 3" in diameter, I can cut faster with a hand saw (albeit with more effort).

I have to call BS on cutting a 12" diameter tree in under a minute. In fact, if you said 6", I'd still have to call BS on that, as 1 minute is a pretty tight time for that if we're talking about green wood (dead wood cuts much better with these). The reality is that after 1 minute of straight cutting, the blade will be trash.

Sounds like you need a real sawzall there chief. A cordless compared to a chainsaw will leave everyone disappointed in the sawzall. I use a full size corded sawzall with the orbital action on full throttle. I will say that I am obviously not talking about cutting down a black walnut or some other hardwood tree. These are softer woods like aspen and cottonwood.

And I obviously don't sit there with a stopwatch and time myself, but yes roughly a minute it would take and certainly under 2 minutes.
 

rlitman

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Long Island
Shopping at Blows and Homeless Despos again ?

I've used the Milwaukee green blades and the newer ones (I think Lenox) made for pruning.

That video shows cutting dead wood (and soft wood at that), not green wood (notice how the "evergreen" trees have no green on them). That's why it is working so well (being frozen may help as well). Green wood weeps water when you cut it, and gums up these blades.

The pruning blades are designed to cut green wood. They're a crosscut blade with a tooth pattern similar to a "Great American" saw, but like I said, the sawzall stroke severely limits their capabilities.

If you're pruning smaller branches, or dead wood, you may have better luck with the Milwaukee "Super Sharp" Swiss made fleam blades. They're a more aggressive cross cutting blade, but have less chip removal ability, so will not work on green wood thicker than the saw stroke.

Sounds like you need a real sawzall there chief. A cordless compared to a chainsaw will leave everyone disappointed in the sawzall. I use a full size corded sawzall with the orbital action on full throttle. I will say that I am obviously not talking about cutting down a black walnut or some other hardwood tree. These are softer woods like aspen and cottonwood.

And I obviously don't sit there with a stopwatch and time myself, but yes roughly a minute it would take and certainly under 2 minutes.

I have a real sawzall, but dragging a cord around to prune trees was just not worth the effort. Totally agree that my cordless was way anemic compared to a real corded tool (but that was years ago with a NiCd; today's cordless closes the gap a lot).

The last time I tried using the sawzall pruning blade on something big, it was on a white oak branch, around 8" in diameter that fell in my back yard after a storm. The cordless was not doing it, so I pulled out an extension cord, and finished the job with a corded sawzall. It took several minutes, but did work.

When a noreaster hit on a Saturday several years ago, it left me a big mess by dropping one of my cherry trees (16" diameter at the trunk). I was waiting at the door to my local Ace hardware Sunday morning when they opened, ran straight for the shelf where the Stihl saw I'd been eyeing for a long time was, and was out of there in 5 minutes with their only one of that model.

Never looked back at the sawzall blades again.

For me, my "chainsaw" is just a pole pruner attachment for a Stihl Kombi. The tiny 12" bar is still plenty capable for me, and is comparable to at least any electric saw out there.

I would say that while a sawzall is a capable tool in a pinch, someone who already had an electric saw would be woefully disappointed downgrading to one.
 

wildbill23c

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Jun 6, 2014
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Idaho
If you have a Sawzall just order pruning blades.That's all I use for limbs and the like.I bust out my Stihl 020 when things get real.

That's what I did. Actually Harbor Freight sells a 5/pk of these blades for about $6. (Item #68946). I bought 1 blade from a local hardware store for $6.49 about a month ago, so you can get 5 of them for about the same price at HF. These work great because you can also cut tree roots with it, get the blade down in the dirt and not hurt it like you would a chainsaw chain. If you have to buy a cheap reciprocating saw from HF while you are there. I've pruned several trees with one of these sawzall pruning blades, as well as a couple tree roots and it worked very well, didn't have to swing an axe or start up the gas chainsaw, plus my sawzall is cordless so no need to dig out a cord either.
 
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