Electric corded drill which one?

[SteveU]

Looking for a replacement for my 20+ yr old black & decker 3/8" drill. It will be used to drill holes & drive screws into wood and once in a great while drill small holes to 1/4" or so in steel up to 1/8" thick if something won't go into the drill press. The one I have gets used as a power screwdriver more often than it drills holes so having variable speed & reversable is a must. What makes & models do you recommend?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[eschoendorff]

Looking for a replacement for my 20+ yr old black & decker 3/8" drill. It will be used to drill holes & drive screws into wood and once in a great while drill small holes to 1/4" or so in steel up to 1/8" thick if something won't go into the drill press. The one I have gets used as a power screwdriver more often than it drills holes so having variable speed & reversable is a must. What makes & models do you recommend?

Thanks,
Steve

If I were going to buy just one, I'd make it one of those Milwaukee Magnum drills.

 

[Coach James]

My corded 3/8 drill is one of these:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=118433-67702-D10VH&lpage=none

Works extremly well. No problem drilling with spade or forstner bits in wood and does fine with metal up to 3/8 diameter.

My favorite 1/2 inch drill is this one:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=137724-2138-0300-20&lpage=none

I could drill an oil well with it.

Coach

 

[russlaferrera]

My choice is Milwaukee Magnum 1/2. can't kill them.

 

[ImportTuner]

I replaced my Black & Decker with a Dewalt 3/8 corded ..

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=19808-70-D21008K&lpage=none

 

[eschoendorff]

I replaced my Black & Decker with a Dewalt 3/8 corded ..

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=19808-70-D21008K&lpage=none

You replaced a Black and Decker with a DeWalt? Is it just me, or does anyone else see the humor here???

 

[ImportTuner]

You replaced a Black and Decker with a DeWalt? Is it just me, or does anyone else see the humor here???

The B&D burned up after 20+ years and the DeWalt was on sale ...

 

[Fast Orange]

I'll echo the guys with the Milwaukee drills.I haven't seen a bad one yet,and I've worked in fab shops and contractors for too many years.I've seen them run using holesaws until they were so hot you couldn't hold them anymore,allowed to cool off,and go right back to work again.IIRC,you could buy the 3/8 Holeshooters for about $80 or get the 1/2 Magnums for about $120. Both are tough drills that will take anything you can dish out.

George

 

[l_bilyk]

Another one for the milwaukee drills...

Bosch makes a few really nice drills as well

 

[kbuhagiar]

I replaced my Black & Decker with a Dewalt 3/8 corded ..

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=19808-70-D21008K&lpage=none

My 20-year-old Craftsman Industrial corded 3/8" VSR drill bit the dust last month and I replaced it with that exact same DeWalt model.
I am very pleased with the DeWalt so far, and I have put it through the wringer during the last month (garage remodel). I am an old-school keyed-drill-chuck-kinda-guy, and I am absolutely tickled with the easy-to use keyless chuck on the DeWalt....

 

[Canadian Charlie]

I've owned Black and Decker, Skil and numberous other drills

But after I bought my Metabo I've never looked back, they are made in Germany

 

[kartracer55]

Milwaukee... If/When the bits grab you better pray that it snaps because the drill is not going to stop just for you Its a monster

 

[danski0224]

Looking for a replacement for my 20+ yr old black & decker 3/8" drill. It will be used to drill holes & drive screws into wood and once in a great while drill small holes to 1/4" or so in steel up to 1/8" thick if something won't go into the drill press. The one I have gets used as a power screwdriver more often than it drills holes so having variable speed & reversable is a must. What makes & models do you recommend?

Thanks,
Steve

If you drive plenty of screws, I would look into an impact driver.

For a good quality drill, can't go wrong with US made Milwaukee.

 

[snorvet]

had a milwaukee for 20 years before the variable speed went out. now have a dewalt hammer drill. I'd recommend either one

 

[wilbilt]

You replaced a Black and Decker with a DeWalt? Is it just me, or does anyone else see the humor here???

Yes, of course.

I bought a Craftsman 3/8 corded drill on ebay a few years ago for about $10. It does just fine.

Then I saw a nearly-new DeWalt at a pawn shop for $30, so I bought it. A couple of weeks later there was a very nice Milwaukee Magnum (1/2") at the same pawn shop, also for $30, so I bought it, too.

The Milwaukee is missing the side handle, which needs to be replaced, because it is a torquey beast.

I have used the DeWalt to drill 2" holes through 1" thick stucco and wire mesh, 1/2" holes through structural steel, and lots of lighter work. No complaints so far. It does have a keyed chuck, which I prefer over keyless for drilling.

 

[Ed and Sandra]

If/When the bits grab you better pray that it snaps because the drill is not going to stop just for you

Goodness, can we ever relate to that comment!!! When we were redoing the garage Ed was standing on the top step (you know - the one that says "Don't stand here") of a flimsy 8' aluminum ladder using a brand new 1/2" Hitachi

We don't know if this type Hitachi drill is well regarded or not (we love it), but we'll certainly say it generates some serious torque. Standing on the aforementioned ladder working overhead, using a large extended shank spade drill, it hit a big nail embedded in some framing. The bit didn't snap, but "dug in" and the Hitachi proceeded to spin Ed around on top of the ladder before tossing him to the concrete floor below. The drill kept on running after it hit the floor and didn't have any damage at all. As far as Ed, there wasn't too much blood - well actually there was enough to make it all pretty scary - and we can say he's healed nicely with a few scars which make for interesting conversation .

The following day we bought three different size, well constructed aluminum ladders and threw the flimsy one away.

Anyway, we have been extremely pleased with the Hitachi and it has received a good bit of subsequent use without so much abuse.

Best regards,
Ed and Sandra

 

[MarkH]

We have good luck with the Makita's we have. They were made in USA or Japan. If the Dewalt was the same as the old B&D Industrial we have used those for 20 plus years.

 

[wilbilt]

The bit didn't snap, but "dug in" and the Hitachi proceeded to spin Ed around on top of the ladder before tossing him to the concrete floor below.

The following day we bought three different size, well constructed aluminum ladders and threw the flimsy one away.

I have witnessed this scenario a few times. My father-in-law is a retired electrician. I was helping him wire a house one day, and he was drilling a ceiling joist with a Milwaukee 1/2" drill and a 1"' auger bit. The bit hit a nail and the drill pulled him up and spun him around. Since he was used to this sort of thing, he always kept a leg wrapped around the ladder when drilling.

Consequently, when he stopped the drill and came back down, the ladder was still under him.

As far as ladders go, My preference is for fiberglass Type 1 or type 1A. I don't like having wobbly aluminum holding me up.

 

[SteveU]

Looked at the B&D, it is a 3 amp 0-1200 rpm model. Pulled up the Milwaukee magnum & found one that is 0-1200 rpm with a keyed chuck which looks more useful than the 0-2800 rpm model & is probably the one I'll go with. I have never owned a 1/2" drill, what kind of things can you do with them that the 3/8" won't do for a homeowner?

 

[wilbilt]

I have never owned a 1/2" drill, what kind of things can you do with them that the 3/8" won't do for a homeowner?

They are made for torque. Heavy, repetitive drilling with large bits is their claim to fame.

I mixed a batch of thinset mortar with my Milwaukee 1/2" drill today for my perpetual bathroom remodel. I have mixed it with cordless drills, but they really aren't up to the task and generally get very hot and/or start smoking.

My 3/8" corded drills will do it, but work very hard. The 1/2" handles it no problem.

 

[Coach James]

Sandra,
That Hitachi 1/2 inch drill is highly regarded. In my case it came down to that one and the 8amp Milwaukee. I chose the Mil. as Lowes was out opf the Hitachi. Consumer reports and Tools of the Trade both hive the Hitachi very high marks.

Coach

 

[Larz]

I have the Hitachi 3/8 VSR. Great drill.

 

[Honda 1]

I have also been thinking about purchasing that same DeWalt drill. Can the
current owners/users confirm one point for me: Does that model DeWalt drill have a lock button which permits the user to lock the trigger in the "on" position or do you have to keep your finger on the trigger? My current drill, an old B&D model, has the lock button feature. It really comes in handy when you are stripping the paint off a metal railing on the stoop or sanding a large piece of wood.
Thanks for your feedback.

 

[ImportTuner]

I have also been thinking about purchasing that same DeWalt drill. Can the
current owners/users confirm one point for me: Does that model DeWalt drill have a lock button which permits the user to lock the trigger in the "on" position or do you have to keep your finger on the trigger? My current drill, an old B&D model, has the lock button feature. It really comes in handy when you are stripping the paint off a metal railing on the stoop or sanding a large piece of wood.
Thanks for your feedback.

Guess I forgot about the lock button on the old B&D; the DeWalt does not have it ... right about the trigger is a switch for forward and reverse, but no lock button ...

 

[wilbilt]

My DeWalt 3/8" VSR is a model DW100. 5.4A, 0-2500 RPM.
It does have a lock button, located below the trigger on the front of the handle.
Some might think this would be an inconvenient location for the lock button, but as a left-hander, I can testify to the fact it minimizes accidental engagement.

Any left-handed owners of Makita JR-3000V reciprocating saws can probably feel my pain.

 

[SteveU]

Found & bought the 0-1200 3/8" Milwaukee magnum locally the other day & noticed a few things about it: 1. it is a lot heavier than the B&D 2. it has a LOT MORE torque reaction when you hold it & hit the trigger 3. the grip is at a more obtuse angle than the B&D which was close to 90*
For the guys that have these, do you use the side handle all the time or only when doing something like running holesaws, spadebits, etc.? Is there much difference between this drill at 7 amps & a 1/2" drill powerwise?