Electric die grinder?

[n8n]

One more tool recommendation request for the hive mind. I need to get a stub of exhaust pipe out of the cat inlet on my Jeep, I was originally thinking of trying to do it with a Sawzall and then realized that it might be worth it to just get a die grinder for better control/less risk of slipping and hurting myself or the vehicle. Difficulty: I don't have an air compressor (I actually have a couple air die grinders in my toolbox, but no compressor.) Is this a good tool?

Amazon.com

Or is there something else I should be looking at? I don't know how often this will get used; hopefully in a couple years I'll have my own place again and can get a compressor, but for now, I want to get my Jeep back on the road with a minimum of frustration (drove BMW to work today and now the snow is sticking to the ground, this is less than ideal...)

 

[mike93lx]

I would think a variable speed Sawzall with the right blade would be the best tool for that job. Should take seconds to cut through the pipe and a file would clean up anything that needs it

 

[Rinspeed]

Milwaukee corded 4" is a must have tool in my opinion. Just make sure you purchase a face shield as well.

 

[n8n]

I would think a variable speed Sawzall with the right blade would be the best tool for that job. Should take seconds to cut through the pipe and a file would clean up anything that needs it

I agree, or alternately a 4.5" grinder with a cutoff wheel, but I am not cutting *through* the pipe, what has happened is that apparently someone pieced the exhaust together from parts of two different vehicles, there is a cut off stub of pipe inside the cat inlet which is a slip joint, I need to get that stub out and reshape the cat inlet and crossover pipe so they fit together properly. I was thinking a die grinder would be safer for that work, I'll make two thin spots in the pipe and then peel it out with a hammer and cold chisel. I am trying not to damage the cat inlet so that I don't end up having to replace it or weld anything onto it (which might raise eyebrows at emissions inspection time)

 

[n8n]

Milwaukee corded 4" is a must have tool in my opinion. Just make sure you purchase a face shield as well.

If you mean the angle grinder I have that already, and yes Milwaukee brand. See my reply above, I'm not trying to just cut off a pipe but something a little more delicate.

I did think about just cutting a slit in the pipe with the angle grinder, removing the extraneous bits, and using a stainless band style clamp to cover the slits when I put it back together. That is an option as well.

 

[mike93lx]

I agree, or alternately a 4.5" grinder with a cutoff wheel, but I am not cutting *through* the pipe, what has happened is that apparently someone pieced the exhaust together from parts of two different vehicles, there is a cut off stub of pipe inside the cat inlet which is a slip joint, I need to get that stub out and reshape the cat inlet and crossover pipe so they fit together properly. I was thinking a die grinder would be safer for that work, I'll make two thin spots in the pipe and then peel it out with a hammer and cold chisel. I am trying not to damage the cat inlet so that I don't end up having to replace it or weld anything onto it (which might raise eyebrows at emissions inspection time)

Ah got it, I misunderstood.

Milwaukee has a couple m12 grinders, if you are interested in cordless. I have the right angle one and love it.

I feel like this is a tool I might grab at HF if I don't have an ongoing need for it, then upgrade later if it is found to be helpful

 

[39 LaSalle]

Three or four years ago I had a project and needed a die grinder for some wire wheel cleanup so I picked up the HF cheapo version. I don't often have a need for one so I didn't want to go whole hog for a quality unit. It would probably get your job done, but my experience found them to be a bit imbalanced so some degree of vibration, and they'll get pretty hot after a few minutes of running. Sooner or later they'll burn out. In my case, sooner rather than later. I went through three of them before I got my project finished, but I had sprung the extra few bucks for the extended warranty so it all worked out.

 

[619DioFan]

A dremel with a metal cutting disc. easy to control , small enough to fit tight areas and has multiple other uses. use my corded dremel all the time.

 

[Old Man Roger]

I have the Makita die grinder. It's never going to be a replacement for an air die grinder, but it works for lighter jobs.

 

[dnschmidt]

Considering what you’re doing I HAVE A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT IDEA. All you need to do is cut through 16th of an inch thick steel. The problem is where that steel happens to be. I recommend a hacksaw blade in a Milwaukee hacksaw blade holder like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...in-24-TPI-Bi-Metal-Blade-48-22-0012/202523986 or something similar. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1...RCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-202523986-_-304583784-_-N&


The Husky choice might be superior since it seems thinner. Milwaukee also makes a Sawzall blade holder that might actually work better than either of the above in your application since Sawzall blades are stiffer particularly the TORCH variety: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...-Reciprocating-Saw-Blade-48-22-0305/202525764

The manual choice might bring with it the finesse that you require.

 

[Rinspeed]

Ah got it, I misunderstood.

As did I.

 

[n8n]

Considering what you’re doing I HAVE A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT IDEA. All you need to do is cut through 16th of an inch thick steel. The problem is where that steel happens to be. I recommend a hacksaw blade in a Milwaukee hacksaw blade holder like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...in-24-TPI-Bi-Metal-Blade-48-22-0012/202523986 or something similar. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1...RCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-202523986-_-304583784-_-N&


The Husky choice might be superior since it seems thinner. Milwaukee also makes a Sawzall blade holder that might actually work better than either of the above in your application since Sawzall blades are stiffer particularly the TORCH variety: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...-Reciprocating-Saw-Blade-48-22-0305/202525764

The manual choice might bring with it the finesse that you require.

hmm. that actually makes sense. I don't think I could control a sawzall with one hand and hold the pipe with the other, but I might be able to do it with a hacksaw blade. Maybe I will see if I can pick one of those up after work and try it tonight before I order anything.

 

[RTM]

Maybe I will see if I can pick one of those up after work and try it tonight before I order anything.

Dammit man, you've failed the test. You are supposed to buy both tools, and then keep the other one for some future task. This is GJ.

 

[n8n]

Dammit man, you've failed the test. You are supposed to buy both tools, and then keep the other one for some future task. This is GJ.

Hah, if it makes you feel any better, I'm sure that I probably have a hacksaw blade holder like that somewhere, but it'll be quicker to buy a new one even in the shitshow that is the Orange Colored Store than to try to find it in my storage locker. I know where my full sized hacksaws are, but that helps me not at all.

 

[tarbellb]

A good variable speed electric diegrinder will run you $150+ (Makita, Metabo)

I would save your money and buy the smallest cheapest grinder* at HF and spend your money on

good burrs.

HF burrs are terrible, you will be cursing at the job. A good USA or similar double cut burr in a cheap grinder is a excellent combo.

* variable speed grinders are excellent for more delicate/tight quarters work

 

[cherrybomb]

Its probably more than what you want to spend,I have the Makita variable speed,1/4 collet.It is a well built,handy,the speed changes are handy as you can dial out any vibrations that can be unsafe and annoying.

 

[Southern83]

Metabo 710

 

[2oolhound]

I've got 5 or 6 die grinders (air) and decent compressor but I also have a makita electric and it gets used more often but for quick jobs. For big long jobs I use air and keep different burrs in each of them so I don't have to stop and change burrs.

Makita make a plastic body one and a metal body one. Mine is the plastic but I'm real happy with it. Got it used for $25. The metal bodies are real serious. They are both big, around 12" long and 3" round but have a long thin neck.

 

[1cargarage]

I have the Makita die grinder from the Amazon link. It's fine. If I bought it new, I would be disappointed but I got mine for ~$40 with a couple attachments. If I were to buy one new, I would go with the Makita variable speed 1/4". We have an older Hitachi (Bright green) VS 1/4" die grinder at work and it's pretty nice to use. No experience with Metabo die grinders.

 

[pbon]

reciprocating saw vibrates so it may not be best near a delicate cat. I like the die grinder in that respect. I assume you are trying to split the stub that is inserted into the cat pipe so you can fold it in on itself and pull it out. If there is a little sticking out maybe you could start folding it with big channel locks and then work a screwdriver into the cavity and continue folding until you can get it out.

 

[n8n]

reciprocating saw vibrates so it may not be best near a delicate cat. I like the die grinder in that respect. I assume you are trying to split the stub that is inserted into the cat pipe so you can fold it in on itself and pull it out. If there is a little sticking out maybe you could start folding it with big channel locks and then work a screwdriver into the cavity and continue folding until you can get it out.

That was exactly my thought as well. However there is nothing sticking out to do that to hence this thread; it appears that someone cut the cat out with a sawzall (possibly a used cat off a different vehicle? I know that's a no no but you know it happens) then crimped down the crossover pipe (this is a 2000 XJ w/ 4.0; there's basically 6-2-1 header/crossover pipe with two integral cats, the pipe crosses under the vehicle between the bellhousing and xmission pan and turns rear, then there's another cat, then muffler, then tailpipe) and forced it into the inlet pipe of the cat *inside* the leftover stub of the same pipe. Amazingly this held together with no evident leaks or badness until I was just sitting at a red light Saturday morning and things got really loud (after leaving the auto parts store with supplies to do an oil change and trans fluid change, of course - that's automotive gratitude for you) after my having owned and driven this vehicle for something like 5 years and 50K miles... this is also why I posted my other thread asking about pipe stretchers and am currently waiting on Brown Santa to bring me that box along with some Lube Lockers to proceed with this exercise.

I'd hoped to pretty much just ignore this vehicle and do the bare minimum to keep it on the road until it went Bluesmobile on me (it also has about 295K miles as of this writing) but this time I can't ignore it...

 

[pbon]

What about expanding another pipe to just fit over the outside of the cat pipe with the stub left in it and either into or outside of the next pipe you are trying to connect to? Or welding on a short new section of pipe (cutting off this problem area if necessary)? If it is installed and you cannot reach all the way around it then obviously welding onto it is not an option.

 

[n8n]

What about expanding another pipe to just fit over the outside of the cat pipe with the stub left in it and either into or outside of the next pipe you are trying to connect to? Or welding on a short new section of pipe (cutting off this problem area if necessary)? If it is installed and you cannot reach all the way around it then obviously welding onto it is not an option.

I haven't been home when there's any light out since the weekend, but my memory says the outside of the cat inlet is flared and messed up a little. I do have on order a 2.25" ID to 2.25" OD coupler in case I can't round out the crossover pipe, I will just cut it a little short and use the coupler. I will still have to get the stub out of the cat, the main reason I haven't done it yet is nothing I've ordered that I know I'll need has showed up yet, so I have no incentive to go out there and set up work lights etc.

 

[n8n]

A good variable speed electric diegrinder will run you $150+ (Makita, Metabo)

I would save your money and buy the smallest cheapest grinder* at HF and spend your money on

good burrs.

HF burrs are terrible, you will be cursing at the job. A good USA or similar double cut burr in a cheap grinder is a excellent combo.

* variable speed grinders are excellent for more delicate/tight quarters work

I actually stopped at HF on my way home to pick up some more funnels, took a look and the cheapest die grinder they have is $70, for that I'll buy a good one instead if I go that route. I already have burrs, just no shop air in my driveway

 

[LG63]

I have a Makita variable speed and agree with others that variable speed is the way to go. I like the collet design on the Makita. Loosening the nut actually pulls the collet out of the socket so no stuck collets. Other brands may have this same setup, I've never actually compared.

 

[tarbellb]

You a Amazon guy?

Makita VS 801C die grinder Warehouse sale - $191 normally $290

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NW4K7R2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[n8n]

You a Amazon guy?

Makita VS 801C die grinder Warehouse sale - $191 normally $290

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NW4K7R2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Is that a recommended model? It's a little more than I wanted to spend, but I do like getting the big boys if I can. And thanks for the reminder to always check returns. I should learn; I bought both a TV and a receiver recently either floor model or refurb because I don't like the massive depreciation on consumer electronics.

 

[LG63]

s that a recommended model? It's a little more than I wanted to spend, but I do like getting the big boys if I can. And thanks for the reminder to always check returns. I should learn; I bought both a TV and a receiver recently either floor model or refurb because I don't like the massive depreciation on consumer electronics.

It's the one I have and I also got it open box from Amazon. I think it was returned because the buyer removed the collet and didn't reassemble the collet/nut correctly. A 30 second fix for me.

 

[pbon]

What about cutting a groove into the first inch or so of the pipe with a dremel and then trying to pry that into a split or tear with a screwdriver and then working further forward from there trying to fold up the stub pipe?

 

[n8n]

It's the one I have and I also got it open box from Amazon. I think it was returned because the buyer removed the collet and didn't reassemble the collet/nut correctly. A 30 second fix for me.

Now it's $182. Tempting. Rational me says wait until Saturday when I can see if I actually need it, but my finger is hovering over the button.

 

[n8n]

So just to follow up to this. I didn't use the die grinder but through judicious use of ratchet straps I was able to hold the cat still enough to use a Sawzall. A hand hacksaw would have been pointless, it took about 45 minutes with a new "Torch" metal cutting blade to get the busted off stub of pipe out, alternating cutting, chiseling, cutting, chiseling, etc. I dunno what Jeep makes the exhaust pipes out of but it's hard stuff. Turns out that the deformation of the crossover pipe was just from stuff flailing around, it appears that it just broke right at the front of the cat due to being weakened by rust. So I ground it a little short and got a 2.5" OD to 2.5" ID coupler and did it ugly. Straightening out the cat inlet was challenging too, was pushing the limits of my new Astro pipe stretcher and my Fuel impact.

So, $20 in parts and $200 in new tools later (I had to buy a 28mm socket to use the pipe stretcher, so I bought 29, 1-1/16 and 1-1/8 as well since I was ordering) and my Jeep is quiet, and I have a completely amateur looking, bodgy repair LOL.

If I had it to do over again I think instead of the coupler I might have bought the crossover pipe and cut it on a straight section and spliced it. I seriously doubt I would be able to get it unbolted from the precats without breaking more stuff however.

Part of me thought about using a 2-1/4" exhaust pipe as an interior splint but my engineer brain couldn't accept that added restriction. On a 300K mile Jeep LOL. However now that I've done it I don't think my pipe stretcher could have straightened out the cat inlet with the pipe stub still inside, it barely got the job done as it was.

Enjoy the pictures of my completely hacky, semi-gluteal driveway repair. But I saved money by doing it myself LOL.