Electric hoist remote cord

[coolguy]

Good morning folks. I have a Northern Tool 440 lbs 3/4 hp Electric hoist. I would like to extend the cord to the remote control about 16 feet.
Has anyone ever done this? If so what is needed and what is the process? Found on the net some fellows say to go to a larger wire and you can add quick connect ends to the extended wire and have one long cord and one short cord. My idea is to have one cord for controlling lift from the second floor of my shop and one for controlling lift from the ground floor.Your thoughts please.

 

[BLUE72CAMARO]

Can you give us a model of the hoist?

 

[coolguy]

Sorry, It is Item#14226 on the Northern tool site.I know they say I think that there is no extension available for that Item.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Here's the link:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_120327_120327?isSearch=14226

I didn't see anything there to indicate what type cord is used for the control pendant, but in the picture it looks like there is information printed on the cord itself. I'd just get a long piece of that same type of cord, with the same number of conductors and the same wire gauge, and put it on. Another 16 feet shouldn't make any difference in how it functions. I'd just coil up the excess cable rather than patching it together with connectors, but if you really want to do that use some sort of twistlock connector so the sections stay together (and install them so you don't have any exposed male plugs that could be energized.)

 

[coolguy]

Thanks so much fellow !!

 

[pattenp]

I have what looks like the same hoist from Harbor Freight and I cut the control cord close to the unit and added a junction box and wired in a second 20' long cord and put on a on-off-on momentary switch. With the two controls I can activate the hoist from in the attic and also from the garage floor. I used a #14/4 wire SJOOW cord.

 

[coolguy]

I have what looks like the same hoist from Harbor Freight and I cut the control cord close to the unit and added a junction box and wired in a second 20' long cord and put on a on-off-on momentary switch. With the two controls I can activate the hoist from in the attic and also from the garage floor. I used a #14/4 wire SJOOW cord.

Thanks Pattenup. I just checked my hoist and found it to be the Item#14230 which is the 1 3/4 model. Can you please give me some brands or model numbers?I'm not electrical savy !!! LOL Northern tools site states in carries 8 amps for the controls it that means anything.A picture sure would help as to how you rigged this up !!! LOL BTW Northern tool was not very helpful at all.

 

[pattenp]

This is the hoist I have...
http://www.harborfreight.com/880-lb-electric-hoist-with-remote-control-60347-9120.html

I forgot that I disconnected the existing remote from the hoist and added a short piece of wire from the hoist to the jbox and connected in the existing remote and the new remote by using a terminal block.

View media item 41166View media item 41167View media item 41168

 

[coolguy]

Thanks so much Pattenp !!

 

[RRP]

In the process of purchasing one of these hoists from HF. Could you (all) tell me what you think of them?

I am planning to use it as part of a motorcycle lift project I am working on.

Thanks
Mark

 

[coolguy]

In the process of purchasing one of these hoists from HF. Could you (all) tell me what you think of them?

I am planning to use it as part of a motorcycle lift project I am working on.

Thanks
Mark

Mark, the hoist from Northern tool is a better buy. I looked at both and
the Northern tool hoist seemed to be of better constructed.It was a little bit more then the HF.

 

[RRP]

Mark, the hoist from Northern tool is a better buy. I looked at both and
the Northern tool hoist seemed to be of better constructed.It was a little bit more then the HF.

Thanks! I will give the Northern one a look as well.

 

[albaran]

I have the same lift and I just spliced in about 20' of the same type of wire. I use the lift to take my daughter's Jeep top off. It works fine because you can guide the load with one hand while using the control with the other.

 

[JakeKohl]

Mark, the hoist from Northern tool is a better buy. I looked at both and
the Northern tool hoist seemed to be of better constructed.It was a little bit more then the HF.

Last time I looked, the Northern and HF hoists looked identical other than some different paint colors.

 

[pattenp]

Yeah, when I compared the HF hoist to the NT hoist I didn't see any difference mechanically. Both made in China. I got the HF one because it was on sale plus I used a 20% off coupon which made it a lot cheaper at the time. It works fine, but it's definitely not made like a Swiss watch. It's a tad noisy.

Last time I looked, the Northern and HF hoists looked identical other than some different paint colors.

 

[great white tj]

Here is a pict of the HF hoist I have. I p/u this hoist back in 2004 and it has never let me down. I use to lift my Kubota B2630 to change out the blades, If you have time let us know if you have put on a longer cord..

 

[wnstwolf]

Great White.. Hope you did not go through all the trouble of painting your B2630 Green!

 

[carsonw8]

Pattenp, in your photo and from your description, am I right in seeing that the original (cut) controller wire is now attached at the top of the jbox, and then the two new controller wires are attached at the bottom of the jbox? (one being the new longer cable and the other being the now shortened cable)..

 

[nehog]

I probably have wire to extend that controller, find out how many conductors are in it, and I can check.

 

[METALMOVER]

Coolguy, I ran into the same issue and couldnt find the same wire in town, I went to a electrical repair store, where they rebuilt starters, alternators, electric motors etc.. they ended up doing the wiring all for like $60 bucks if I remember. Hope that helps. MM

 

[OldracerJones]

I did the same thing, just spliced in about 8 foot of the same gauge wire. Could have bought the connectors and replaced the wire altogether but after shrink wrapping the splices looks and works great.

 

[rslaback]

I did this on a hoist that I installed on an overhead track with a dolly. If your winch is hardmounted and you can do it like the above pics show with a junction box I highly recommend it. I had to just take out the existing cable and make my connections in the factory box on the hoist. It was a PITA due to lack of room.

 

[pattenp]

Pattenp, in your photo and from your description, am I right in seeing that the original (cut) controller wire is now attached at the top of the jbox, and then the two new controller wires are attached at the bottom of the jbox? (one being the new longer cable and the other being the now shortened cable)..

Actually I added a new short piece of cord from the motor to the jbox which is attached to the top of the terminal block and the two remote cords are attached to the bottom of the terminal block. It doesn't matter which cord is attached to the top or bottom of the terminal block because it a straight splice.

 

[tedallen]

Do you have any part numbers or wiring diagrams for the rocker switches that you used for your installation? My friend and I both have HF hoists similar to the one you utilized and are looking to do the same thing. We are assuming that one of the wires is used for hot, the other for neutral, and the other two for controlling the motor direction. Do you have details on which wire is used for which? I also would expect that the rocker switches being utilized are off in the neutral position and either raise or lower depending on whether the rocker is pressed in at the top or bottom. So, an always hot wire, a neutral wire, and the up and down wires that are toggled to by the switches coming from the hoist to the top of the jbox into the terminal block. Then stacked pairs of hot/neutral/up/down going to each of the rocker switches, with the switches toggling the always hot wire between the up and down output wires back to the terminal block.

Are there specific wire colors that you utilized?

Also, do have part numbers for the jbox and terminal blocks you utilized? Were they purchased as a preassembled unit or did you have to obtain terminal blocks separately that would fit and find a way to mount them in a generic jbox?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

This is the hoist I have...
http://www.harborfreight.com/880-lb-electric-hoist-with-remote-control-60347-9120.html

I forgot that I disconnected the existing remote from the hoist and added a short piece of wire from the hoist to the jbox and connected in the existing remote and the new remote by using a terminal block.

 

[zoolan70]

I know this is a really old thread, but finding information about how to add a second switch to these hoists is nearly impossible. Does anyone have any recommendations on the switch model to buy? My plan is to leave the pendant up in the attic and put a second switch in the wall near where the platform lands when lowered.

 

[My Old Tools]

I did mine with 4 conductor soft jacket equipment wire and twist lock connectors. The same cord doubles as my 3 phase extension cord.

 

[My Old Tools]

I know this is a really old thread, but finding information about how to add a second switch to these hoists is nearly impossible. Does anyone have any recommendations on the switch model to buy? My plan is to leave the pendant up in the attic and put a second switch in the wall near where the platform lands when lowered.

They are simple 4 wire controls. Pendant style control stations are available at most industrial supply houses.
https://www.grainger.com/category/c...hine-safety/electrical/ecatalog/N-qhzZ1yzztrp

 

[rlitman]

I don't think you can safely just add a second switch. The switch in the pendant is a DPDT. If you were to have two switches, you could create a short if someone manipulated one while the other was in use.

 

[dogdog]

I don't think you can safely just adding a second switch. The switch in the pendant is a DPDT. If you were to have two switches, you could create a short if someone manipulated one while the other was in use.

^^^ This

if you don't complicate the build with some sort of bypass or isolate the input with a controller...

maybe look at the Arduino project from this thread ?

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=203905

https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-hack-an-Electric-Hoist-AC-motor/

 

[My Old Tools]

or just don't have two people using it at once. The switches are momentary.

 

[rlitman]

or just don't have two people using it at once. The switches are momentary.

Un huh. It's the same situation as a generator back feed without an interlock. Do you really want to advocate that. Yes, it CAN work, but it relies on the user not being an idiot, and I don't think we can ever count on that.

 

[psquare]

sorry to change subject here but just to make sure I understood you guys just cut the wire of the remote and added the necessary length of cord?

 

[rlitman]

sorry to change subject here but just to make sure I understood you guys just cut the wire of the remote and added the necessary length of cord?

In theory that would work with a HF hoist. It would work better if you used locking plugs.

In practice, when I replaced the wire on a real electric hoist, I saw that the original wire was NOT regular SO cord. Instead, it had a steel braided cable inside the jacket that was anchored to the hoist and pendant bodies. Finding that cord was difficult.

My pneumatic hoist has a similar pendant control, which also has a steel cable inside the "cord". I like being able to tug the hoist around on its trolley by the pendant, and that wouldn't be possible without that extra strength.

But I'm not so sure how smart that would be on a HF hoist in any case.

 

[PCMusicGuy]

I know this is a really old thread, but finding information about how to add a second switch to these hoists is nearly impossible. Does anyone have any recommendations on the switch model to buy? My plan is to leave the pendant up in the attic and put a second switch in the wall near where the platform lands when lowered.

I added a second control switch earlier this year to my 750/1500 lbs. Northern Tool hoist. I had the hoist in place for a few years now and always went up into the attic every time I wanted to lower my material lift. I went with this switch:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PNO4OE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm the only one that ever uses it and since the control pendant is in the attic and the switch is down at the normal level in the wall, it is not possible to control both without two people present. The hoist from Northern Tool does have a separate electrical cutoff/bypass switch on the control pendant that I always leave so that the buttons do not work. The harbor freight units do not offer this feature. That could offer more piece of mind I suppose if that's important to you. I will say that just by opening the wiring box I was not able to figure out how to the wire the switch in parallel and have it work properly. I had to also open the control pendant. Inside of the control pendant, there were some terminals that were always bridged with some metal plates that were not on the electrical schematic.

 

[matt_i]

It wouldn't be hard to interlock the up and down functions with a couple of ice cube relays. When UP coil is pulled in by either UP pushbutton in parallel, the button to coil wiring runs thru the NC contact of the DOWN relay. And vice versa. I will attempt to sketch the design for you all.

Its no more complex than the requirement not to confound the FWD and REV contactors in a 3 phase motor starter that's bi-directional. There, it causes a phase to phase short which is usually an explosion cut short by the melting of fusible elements.

 

[grapeland]

I forgot that I disconnected the existing remote from the hoist and added a short piece of wire from the hoist to the jbox and connected in the existing remote and the new remote by using a terminal block


Pattenp I have the HF winch that has the capacitor in the pendent handle. My question is do I need two capacitors to wire as you did or will the second switch fire the original capacitor properly. I also need to control the winch in the attic and from the garage below. Thanks for any help or suggestions.

 

[My Old Tools]

My extension cord is long. I just carry the pendant up and down with me and use the pendant to control the hoist either place.

 

[My Old Tools]

Un huh. It's the same situation as a generator back feed without an interlock. Do you really want to advocate that. Yes, it CAN work, but it relies on the user not being an idiot, and I don't think we can ever count on that.

I'm a one man shop, so yes, it's safe enough for me.