Electric Meter Falling Off House?

[89MustangGX]

Ok, so title is a little dramatic but my electric meter has come a little loose from the house. I saw a little gap between the top of the electric meter and the house where the caulk had split, so I pushed on it and had some movement at the top. Obviously I want to secure it back up, but I have never dealt with a meter before and don't know how it attaches.

Opposite the meter is a finished wall with my main breaker panel mounted just below where the meter is mounted.

I took a quick look and don't see any panels or access on the meter itself, so my gut tells me that I need to open the drywall and tighten a bolt or put screws in or something along those lines.

Looking for some backup that I'm thinking this through correctly and wondering what I might find or how I should expect to secure the meter.

Thanks,

Adam

 

[sberry]

They are usually screwed from the front. Something wasn't installed properly, I did fix something similar, shot bout 1/2 a tube of silicone behind it and propped it back up till it hardened.

 

[sberry]

Depends on how friendly your poco is and the current condition of the service, they can disconnect it while you fix and reheat it after. If I thought it needed bracing behind to screw to would have it open and ready. I did one recently and left the wall open behind, the inspector had to walk past and this let him see I had added blocks vs simply screwed to sheeting.

 

[89MustangGX]

Thanks for the reply. To clarify: you mean the way it is installed is from the side where the glass "meter" is installed? Meaning I would need the power company to come out and remove that, I would disassemble or somehow open the box and secure it by screwing into some type of support on the backside, then they would reinstall the glass? Is that correct?

I don't even see how it opens - can you help paint the picture for me? Sounds like this might be more involved than I thought. And still sounds like I need to open the drywall to install more bracing or at least see what's back there.

Adam

 

[Bronson]

I may be mistaken, but, I believe that the Power Company is responsible for the meter. I would give them a call.

 

[Norcal]

Be careful when moving the meter can while energized as a screw could fall in the wrong spot, and the PoCo feed has no overcurrent protection at all.

 

[mike93lx]

I may be mistaken, but, I believe that the Power Company is responsible for the meter. I would give them a call.

Around here, they own the meter but the homeowner is responsible for the box and socket. That said, i imagine they would be happy to come out and pull the meter, but probably wouldn't touch anything in the box.

 

[89MustangGX]

Thanks for the tips and info guys.

I'm learning what I'm referring to is the meter base or socket- that may have caused some confusion.

It's sounding more and more like I need to open the drywall on the back for some type of reinforcement and then call the power company- hopefully to pull the meter, let me run some screws in, then reinstall the meter.

Appreciate the help- and feel free to drop any other tips or things I might want to know.

Adam

 

[gregtwojeeps]

Is this meter located on the exterior of the house ? What type wall is it fastened to such as brick, wood/vinyl siding ? May have enough to fasten to now without taking out the inside drywall. Could just be not enough fasteners (4) used to hold the meter base to the wall or not the right type screws or anchors being used for... what they are anchored in to.

 

[Richard Cranium]

power company owns the meter, you own the meter base. Your problem not theirs. Call them ask if they charge to remove a meter so that you can tighten the screws that holds the base on.

 

[reader2580]

My POCO was happy to screw my meter base back to the house after siding was replaced. No charge. They also removed the meter base from the wall when they came out to remove an unused second meter.

 

[mm08822]

Removing the meter will only de-energize the lower jaws. Upper jaws will stay hot. If this is an overhead service, you may be able to get away with resecuring the meter pan to the sheathing after you put additional blocking behind it from the inside.
If underground service, the lateral may be pulling the meter off the wall as the ground settles next to the house. If this is the case, you may be able to lower the meter an inch to relieve the tension to resecure to the wall. Poco should disconnect lateral at xformer to kill top side of meter jaws.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Is this overhead or underground feed?

If overhead, does the conduit have a clamp on it near the meter socket?

 

[89MustangGX]

I will get a pic tomorrow. I don't see how the base opens up, so I could use that help anyway figuring that out. I don't see any screws, although it almost looks like the front should slide?

It is an underground feed through conduit up on the side of the house. It is mounted to/inset in HardiPlank.

I obviously want to be ready since it sounds like the power company will need to be involved so I appreciate the info you guys are throwing out there. I'll have more to share tomorrow.

 

[Junkman]

Where the conduit comes out of the ground, and connects to the meter socket, there should be a conduit slip joint coupling that allows the pipe to move without disturbing the meter. If it isn't there, you should remove the meter socket, and install one, while the power is disconnected. It will mean that you are going to need to cut off some of the existing conduit to slip the new part onto the old conduit, and glue it into place. Once that is done, you can put the meter socket back on the house and never have any more problems.
In CT, Eversource, the local poco, requires that you upgrade the meter socket if it has to be removed for any reason. They now require a meter socket with an internal bypass lever, that they can move, without the home loosing power, if they need to change out the meter itself.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Slip-joints arent used out here and are mainly used in areas where the ground freezes.

 

[James-W]

Around here the electric company is pretty good about doing things like this without charging. I would call and ask them and see what they say. They may wait to do it until they are working in your area, but if they will do it at no charge I would let them do it.

 

[mm08822]

A slip-joint wont help much in this case. As the ground is settling, the conductors are being pulled down. The conductors are strong enough to pull the entire base from the wall. The base can move down because the screws shear, the sheathing bows out or screws pull free from sheathing. The real problem is most utility service contractors paid to install the laterals dont leave enough slack or any slack directly below the conduit in the conductors. Problems start when the ground settltes in this area next to foundation which is where several feet of backfill is consolidating over time. Simplest fix is to lower meter to relieve stress on conductors/conduit sleeve. Biggest pia is that sheathing/siding probably bowed.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

I will get a pic tomorrow. I don't see how the base opens up, so I could use that help anyway figuring that out. I don't see any screws, although it almost looks like the front should slide?

It is an underground feed through conduit up on the side of the house. It is mounted to/inset in HardiPlank.

I obviously want to be ready since it sounds like the power company will need to be involved so I appreciate the info you guys are throwing out there. I'll have more to share tomorrow.

Yes, the meter belongs to the POCO, the MB is the property owners. ..

It reads like your MB is just wood screwed to the Hardi planks (7/16" thick about) which probably has rigid insulated exterior sheathing boards behind them.(no anchoring strength ) The planks by themselves, are not thick enough to give enough "bite" for the screws to properly support the MB.

So if it were mine , I would go ahead and open up the wall behind the MB and put some solid wood blocking the MB. This way when the POCO kills the power, they will pull the meter and you can put in some good screws in to your blocking and they can check your meter base connections, plug the meter back in and power it up. All done and happy. JMO.

 

[bczygan]

Here, the power company owns the meter, but you own the meter box.

Here, the power company would disconnect at the pole for either OH or UG service which would be perfect, since it would give you complete access to secure the box better. You could then pull the meter (Or have them do it) and work in the meter box safely.

Or, to avoid scheduling difficulties, you could have your electrician disconnect an OH service at the weather head.

Bill

 

[89MustangGX]

It reads like your MB is just wood screwed to the Hardi planks (7/16" thick about) which probably has rigid insulated exterior sheathing boards behind them.(no anchoring strength ) The planks by themselves, are not thick enough to give enough "bite" for the screws to properly support the MB.

So if it were mine , I would go ahead and open up the wall behind the MB and put some solid wood blocking the MB. This way when the POCO kills the power, they will pull the meter and you can put in some good screws in to your blocking and they can check your meter base connections, plug the meter back in and power it up. All done and happy. JMO.

I think this is the best description of what I can see so far. I don't believe the feeders are pulling the box off, I can close the gap with my hand and a slight push against the box. I can tell from my poking around that the Hardi is on top of plywood. Of course I have no idea at this point how the MB is attached to the Hardi/plywood and won't know until I get it opened up. I think this would be best - reinforcing behind the MB and running longer/larger screws into the reinforcement.

I still need to know how the MB opens. I have pics but waiting for my phone to recharge to upload them.

Pics soon...

Adam

 

[gregtwojeeps]

If like most POCO's, your MB will have a seal tag on it that should only be cut by their employee or someone authorized by them to cut it. (stops meter tampering = electricity theft) Once this seal is cut, the lockable swing tab is moved upwards and the lid cover will lift up some and lift out and off. (depending on the state where located, this description may vary)

Here is a typical MB on a house....with the cover and meter removed.

Note that it has four mounting screw holes. The wires going in the top are from an underground service ...those will be the main power wires coming in to the house. The POCO will have to kill the power to those upper wires in order for anyone to safely work on the MB. The bottom wires go in to the homes breaker box to the main breaker. JMO

 

[89MustangGX]

Thank you! I think I finally get how the cover will come off and your description sounds like what I am seeing!

Adam

 

[89MustangGX]

Pics as promised.

First, an overall pic.

Second is a pic of the gap I am seeing.

Third pic is with my hand pushing against the MB. It doesn't take much pressure to close the gap, so I really think it just needs better fastened to the house.

As usual, please continue to add any info- I really appreciate the replies!

Adam

 

[bczygan]

Do NOT pull the meter or open the meter box until the power to it is cut at the pole or transformer.

 

[89MustangGX]

Do NOT pull the meter or open the meter box until the power to it is cut at the pole or transformer.

No worries, not planning on it. My intention has been to learn as much as I can about this so I can get it all done in one shot when the power company gets involved. Thank you for the concern, it is appreciated.

Adam

 

[mm08822]

That is so minor that I wouldn't bother with it. Just remove old caulk and add new. Your meterpan probably connects like greg2jeeps pic shows. With that ****** going thru the wall, you would not have been able to lower the meter as I suggested (assumed you had sec cable between meter and panel - pics early on in post helps prevent many assumptions and endless # of useless replies). Also be careful where your main panel is in relation to the meter mounting holes - meter pan may be back-back with main panel so using bigger/longer screws is not to swift and there also may not be any opportunity to add blocking behind sheathing on the interior of wall.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

Seeing the pics now I agree with MM post, the MB movement does not look that bad now. . I think what you have is the UG conduit has settled some and pulled the top of MB outwards which took the slack out of the boards it is fastened to. ..

I would call the POCO and let them assess the MB situation and they will advise you on what to do. The MB is not theirs, but they are good about wanting to keep people safe and their meter safe. They will most likely pull the meter and inspect the anchor screws to see if they are adequate. But for sure though, look in to the conduit supports for the UG pipe running up in to the bottom of the MB....

If the pipe keeps settling it can literally pull down over time on the 2 in. PVC male adapter while breaking the glue joint or even possibly stripping the locknut from the male PVC adapter. If that happens, the possibility of the pull downward on the wires will loosen up the wire/ lug connections on the meter lugs ...which can cause overheating ... Not good. JMO

 

[bczygan]

No worries, not planning on it. My intention has been to learn as much as I can about this so I can get it all done in one shot when the power company gets involved. Thank you for the concern, it is appreciated.

Adam

Just wanted to make sure...

 

[simpler=better]

That is so minor that I wouldn't bother with it. Just remove old caulk and add new. Your meterpan probably connects like greg2jeeps pic shows. With that ****** going thru the wall, you would not have been able to lower the meter as I suggested (assumed you had sec cable between meter and panel - pics early on in post helps prevent many assumptions and endless # of useless replies). Also be careful where your main panel is in relation to the meter mounting holes - meter pan may be back-back with main panel so using bigger/longer screws is not to swift and there also may not be any opportunity to add blocking behind sheathing on the interior of wall.

"Quad" brand caulk is like $8/tube, but it's worth every penny. Sticky, messy as all get out, but super strong and cures in the cold.

 

[89MustangGX]

Thanks again for the input. I agree it's not major falling off the house, but I would like to fix it as best as possible (with fasteners rather than caulk, though I'll re-caulk afterwards). Fortunately for me, I have opened up some drywall near the breaker box already as I am adding wiring for a generator, which is what led to me noticing this, so it's not going to break my heart top open up a little more.

I'll update as I go through it. I appreciate the help- it has definitely made it clear what I need to do to fix.

Adam

 

[Mustang51js]

You would need to cut the tab and pull the meter clamp off,then pull the meter. After that there will be a metal tab to push up and take cover off. You could call an electrician to just do it without getting the poco involved. I could fix that in 5 minutes,and all i need is new screws and a peice of cardboard.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

You would need to cut the tab and pull the meter clamp off,then pull the meter. After that there will be a metal tab to push up and take cover off. You could call an electrician to just do it without getting the poco involved. I could fix that in 5 minutes,and all i need is new screws and a peice of cardboard.

And if his Poco is **** and finds the cut tag they may fine him.

 

[reader2580]

And if his Poco is **** and finds the cut tag they may fine him.

My electric co-op started a fairly new policy of a fine if you cut the meter tag without contacting them first. It is unclear if they only allow licensed electricians to do this or not.

 

[89MustangGX]

You would need to cut the tab and pull the meter clamp off,then pull the meter. After that there will be a metal tab to push up and take cover off. You could call an electrician to just do it without getting the poco involved. I could fix that in 5 minutes,and all i need is new screws and a peice of cardboard.

Thanks for the reply, but I don't want to run the risk of getting into a bad spot with the power company, and I would like to ensure as much safety here as well, especially being my first time working around a meter base. Call it nervous or extra cautious, but I'd rather do it the right way.

I am curious about your comment about the cardboard though- what would that be for?

Adam

 

[rburke65]

Yes the power company one the meter and their responsibility for delivery nods when the triplex is attached to the house. From there....it's yours.

 

[Rob_b]

I just went through the same thing. Seems that when I poured a sidewalk a few years ago, I poured it right around the conduit that comes up to the meter box. The freeze / thaw process kept pushing up and down on the box and loosened it. I had to pull a permit to have the power disconnected, the local POCO needed to remove the meter, then I was able to put some new screws in the back of the can. Funny thing, the old screws that have been in the box since 1979 were 3/4" #8 pan head...like wtf. The inspector came by to approve the work...yeah, like 4 screws...$225 permit fee and he blesses it. I put in 4 - 2.5" #12 and hit studs on 3 of the 4. Replaced the 4th with a longer screw on an angle and got the 4th to hit a stud. Rock solid now. Inspector mentioned to break away the concrete from around the conduit to prevent it happening again.
So, the prep, calling POCO to remove power and meter 9am, my work completed 7 minutes later, inspector arrives 11:45am, POCO returns at 1:30 to replace meter....and during that time running fridge, freezer etc on genny...what a PITA..