Electric plug placement

[MetalBuildingFun]

I have searched but I don't see a thread on this so my question is, where do you have your electric outlets placed on the wall in your garage? We are not yet at the stage of installing the electric wiring and I was thinking it would be best to put the receptacles under the upper cabinets/shelves to get the electric cords off the workbench.

The plan is to have some multi outlets installed so we can plug in more than one item at a time such as a light strip and a circular saw, or any other woodworking tool. The only hardwired items will be the electrical wiring and the outlets. We will be using everything that plugs in like lighting so it is easily replaced when needed. Without going into how many receptacles we are putting in, I was just wondering the height you put yours in? What works best for you and why? We are woodworking, my husband will have one outlet on the ceiling so he can have an extension cord hanging from there when he needs to use tools in the center of the garage. Our current tiny garage has only 1 outlet and it is a pain in the rear, lol.

Thanks

 

[nadogail]

My receptacles are where they are needed. For example the receptacle for the refrigerator is just to the left of the refrigerator 18" below the top where if necessary it can be immediately unplugged. The receptacle for the tablesaw is behind the tables away which is on wheels and pulled into the center of the workshop when used. The bandsaw and drill press are powered from a cord dropped from the overhead with an appropriate strain relief.

 

[Stuart in MN]

A typical height is a few inches above 48 inches above the floor. That way, they're still accessible if you have 4x8 sheets of plywood leaning against the wall.

 

[mike93lx]

A typical height is a few inches above 48 inches above the floor. That way, they're still accessible if you have 4x8 sheets of plywood leaning against the wall.

I hear this alot and wonder how many people really have sheets of plywood leaning on all the walls of their shops.

At a comfortable height can be nice for lightweight cords, but if plugging in anything heavy, like a 12/3, that is a lot of strain to put on the outlets and plugs.

I would keep them closer to the floor for most of the shop and move them higher around stuff like benches

 

[Moosefire]

Mine are about 40 inches off the ground, which gives me a few inches of clearance off of my 36 inch high tool boxes that I use as a workbench. Personally in a garage I would say most if not all of the outlets should be between 36 and 50 inches, so you dont have to bend over to plug things in. Just my personal opinion

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[dscheidt]

The only hardwired items will be the electrical wiring and the outlets. We will be using everything that plugs in like lighting so it is easily replaced when needed.

Thanks

Install proper hardwired lighting. Plug connected shop lights are universally garbage, sold solely on the basis of price. Hardwired stuff is better built, will last longer, and most are better light fixtures as well.

Outlet height is going to vary based on use. Outlets above a workbench or tool box are much nicer than ones buried behind or under them, at least for things that are plugged in and out regularly. They can get in the way for permanent installations. outlets closer to floor level are better for plugging extension cords, and other long cords into. If they're at 50" off the ground they create a tripping hazard when the cord is pulled tight.

Keep in mind that whatever you do, it's going to be wrong, and you'll have to (or at least, want to) make changes. Even if you get it right for what you have now, you'll add or replace a tool, and that requires reworking.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I hear this alot and wonder how many people really have sheets of plywood leaning on all the walls of their shops.

The OP said they're using the garage for woodworking, so sheets of plywood sitting around is certainly a possibility.

 

[nadogail]

Lay your shop out, on paper, and then during construction bring the electricity to where you decide it will be needed.

IMHO, that is better than trying to adapt to somebody else's, who will not be using the shop, thoughts on where it should go.

 

[mike93lx]

The OP said they're using the garage for woodworking, so sheets of plywood sitting around is certainly a possibility.

Personally, I stack my plywood so it isn't a mess. 8' of wall is not enough for me to dictate outlet heights

 

[510ebl]

I hear this alot and wonder how many people really have sheets of plywood leaning on all the walls of their shops.

I still like 52” +/- for a height b/c it is higher than a counter, toolbox or bench and lower than most overhead cabinets. I usually end up reconfiguring my space every few years so lower receptacles would undoubtedly get covered.

 

[kd3pc]

LIke 510 above, mine are at 54" to clear things and to above the 48" full sheet of OSB with no cuts.

The welder and air compressor are to the left of the units at shoulder height to plug/unplug easily if needed.

Don't forget to put a couple of outlets outside on the face and the rear, amazing how easy to plug in something and leave the big door down.

 

[MetalBuildingFun]

Thanks everyone for the responses, I still haven't figured out how to do the multiple quote thing so I will reply here to all of you.

The setup of the shop is all work benches. Most will be on wheels because they are already in our small garage and will move into the bigger one. They are on wheels because we have to move everything out of the garage just to work on anything. This is the reason we built the new bigger garage, and to stop paying storage for our car.

We will use this bigger garage for woodworking for the most part as we plan to build all new cabinets and make other upgrades to our house, so all electrical will need to be higher on the wall than needed toward the floor.

We will probably put one lower outlet near the big front door, and possibly one near the walk door. The center ceiling outlet will be for an extension cord with the same setup we use now in our tiny garage which my husband has the cord looped and also on a hook so there is strain relief and it can't be pulled out of the receptacle. All receptacles used will be utilized in the same way to prevent damage to cords or the receptacle. My goal is to have the receptacles at the right height and wondered where you all had yours.

The panel saw we built will be on the back wall and it will be operated using the ceiling extension cord as well as many of the larger tools when he rolls the larger work bench into the center of the garage. He will be adding an electrical strip to that bench to plug the extension cord into, and then he can plug in whichever tool/s he plans to use at the moment.

We have plans for a loft at the back area of the garage for wood storage. The panel saw will be on the front wall of this loft. It looks like you can get the plans for the panel saw but I don't know what that entails. It looks like he closed up shop for now but plans to reopen. We really like our panel saw though, and it sure makes it easy to cut that plywood down. Here is the link if you are interested in taking a look at it.

http://a2equipment.com/


Anyway, thanks for the info on your heights of receptacles and I do believe I know where they are going now.

As for plug in lighting vs hardwired lighting. We are going for the plug in lighting because we have gone toward LED lighting and bought some MAXLITE 5000K LED Daylight 4' lights. Hubby bought 8 and has only temporarily put two in the garage for now and there is tons of light coming from them. He just used an extension cord plugged into the wall outlet on the house when he is out there. I asked for lighting that would provide me the same light whether it was above my head or in front of me at the work bench. My eyes have problems and I wanted light that doesn't change color from one area to the next. These lights were the best solution for this problem. If it doesn't work out I will let you all know but so far I am really liking them and they are small enough they can be placed under the upper cabinet/shelving.

https://www.maxlite.com/products/shop-light/SL-48401-50

 

[u2slow]

Wire your receptacles after the interior is finished and you have your benches and stationary tools where you want them. Then its like shooting fish in a barrel.

I tend to like them above counter height, because anything below 3' in my shop is especially susceptible to damage.

 

[sparky 1971]

If it's a traditional stud framed garage, I usually put the boxes at 44" to the bottom. I don't know why other than that is where the first shop I worked at put them. If it's a pole barn type building, I screw them to the horizontal framing that is closest to that height. They usually wind up about 40-48", but there is one where the boxes wound up about 5' high. I didn't measure because it didn't matter. That's the way it was built and I didn't even know the building existed until it was too late to do anything about it short of pulling off the metal to add more lumber. I won't just screw it to the metal because the box will eventually fall off when the screws come undone. There is usually going to be a board behind the metal if I am going to put a box there. There has been a time or two where a box had to be in a certain spot so I mounted it to a piece of unistrut that spanned two framing members, but that can get expensive pretty quick As far as being concerned about 4X8 sheets leaning against the wall, I have never personally seen a pile of plywood leaning against a wall for a significant amount of time. When it's against a wall, I would think it's for a project and is going to get used up sooner than later. If it's a possibility, just plan out the shop with dedicated plywood/sheet goods spaces. Two places 9' wide should do it. Or, just have enough receptacles that if a couple get buried, it's no big deal.

EDIT: I have yet to wire a metal building that wasn't exposed conduit.

 

[MetalBuildingFun]

Wire your receptacles after the interior is finished and you have your benches and stationary tools where you want them. Then its like shooting fish in a barrel.

I tend to like them above counter height, because anything below 3' in my shop is especially susceptible to damage.

Yes, we plan to figure all that out before receptacles go in.

EDIT: I have yet to wire a metal building that wasn't exposed conduit.

It is a metal building, we will be using 1x4 furring strips to mount the conduit to. We will be screwing as few screws as possible into our metal framing of the building.

 

[MetalBuildingFun]

Oh, as it goes because it is a new building my husband is not allowed to do the wiring, we have to pay a licensed electrician although he knows how to do it himself. He has a degree in electro-mechanical engineering and is retired military and did plenty of electrical work. But, city says no, so we have to pay someone and that is another reason we are not doing hardwired lighting, we are not paying anyone to hardwire up each and every light fixture. If this was our house, he could get the permit and do the changes, but no because it is a brand new build everything has to be done by someone licensed. It is what it is, if we want our building completed and all T's crossed and I's dotted we have to do what they say to do.

 

[sparky 1971]

Yes, we plan to figure all that out before receptacles go in.




It is a metal building, we will be using 1x4 furring strips to mount the conduit to. We will be screwing as few screws as possible into our metal framing of the building.

Why the furring strips?

 

[MetalBuildingFun]

Why the furring strips?

Because it is a wind stormed building and we can't be drilling too many holes into our framing. Also, by using strips we can put the conduit on the underneath edge of them using clips and add the plywood on top of them. Essentially hiding the conduit behind the plywood.

 

[sparky 1971]

I don't believe I have ever wired a metal framed building when new. Steel studs...yes. I googled wind stormed building and came up with nothing. What is different about them that limits screw holes?

 

[MetalBuildingFun]

I don't believe I have ever wired a metal framed building when new. Steel studs...yes. I googled wind stormed building and came up with nothing. What is different about them that limits screw holes?

The building manufacturer being jerks and taking away our warranty!

 

[rburke65]

I do t know the exact height but I put mine well above my roll-a-way height.

 

[nadogail]

The building manufacturer being jerks and taking away our warranty!

If the building is still in the planning stage, IMHO you should plan to find a building manufacturer who will be more cooperative.

 

[Kaizen]

I ran mine at about 40” every four feet I have a double box. Figured that would allow any tool to get to a plug.
I ran in conduit on the surface so I was not limited ever.
Ran two 20amp plug reels on the ceiling. I use those the most often so far. My goal was no more damn cords on floor.
I made sure my plugs were 20 amps so any marginally powerful tools will never be an issue.


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[Toolfool]

If you're planning to build wall cabinets keep in mind that 54" is the standard height to the bottom of kitchen wall cabinets. 36" is standard height to top of kitchen counter tops. these are heights that people are commonly comfortable with. Outlets placed within that 18" space is usually appropriate where you plan to have benches and wall cabinets.

 

[MetalBuildingFun]

If the building is still in the planning stage, IMHO you should plan to find a building manufacturer who will be more cooperative.

Sadly, the building is already here, and the building company knew from the beginning "What Exactly!" we planned to do with the building. When it came time to deliver said building they decided to tell us we could not do all the things we said we were doing. So, I am at a pass right now with said building company and might have to go a direction I do not want to go. I told them there was never any secrets what we planned to do with the building from the first moment I spoke to them about the building and that was before any money was put down on said building. Too late, footing/foundation already engineered for said building, and engineered plans for said building paid for. So, without going any further into this legal issue I will have to stop the conversation here.

 

[MetalBuildingFun]

I ran mine at about 40” every four feet I have a double box. Figured that would allow any tool to get to a plug.
I ran in conduit on the surface so I was not limited ever.
Ran two 20amp plug reels on the ceiling. I use those the most often so far. My goal was no more damn cords on floor.
I made sure my plugs were 20 amps so any marginally powerful tools will never be an issue.


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Yep, all our plugs are to be 20 amp as well, we will also have one 220 installed. Conduit on the surface sounds like a good idea to me but hubby wants it buried, lol. He will be using tongue and groove plywood with screws so he can easily remove if he needs to.

 

[MetalBuildingFun]

If you're planning to build wall cabinets keep in mind that 54" is the standard height to the bottom of kitchen wall cabinets. 36" is standard height to top of kitchen counter tops. these are heights that people are commonly comfortable with. Outlets placed within that 18" space is usually appropriate where you plan to have benches and wall cabinets.

LOL, right and then me the shorty comes along and can't handle those high cabinets and counters, lol. But that is okay, my space will be built to my specs and he will have his so it will all work out in the end.

But yes, it's the getting cords off the countertop, away from the tools and woodworking to make it easier to work in the area.

 

[mike93lx]

Sadly, the building is already here, and the building company knew from the beginning "What Exactly!" we planned to do with the building. When it came time to deliver said building they decided to tell us we could not do all the things we said we were doing. So, I am at a pass right now with said building company and might have to go a direction I do not want to go. I told them there was never any secrets what we planned to do with the building from the first moment I spoke to them about the building and that was before any money was put down on said building. Too late, footing/foundation already engineered for said building, and engineered plans for said building paid for. So, without going any further into this legal issue I will have to stop the conversation here.

What they "knew" doesn't matter. What was in writing does

 

[MetalBuildingFun]

What they "knew" doesn't matter. What was in writing does

I don't know what part of my earlier post said the conversation regarding this matter would be closed you don't understand. Let me handle it, you know zip. Thanks in advance.

 

[u2slow]

Yes, we plan to figure all that out before receptacles go in.

That's a nice plan. It didn't work for me.

Been using my shop for the last 6-7 years since dismissing the builder. Still working on the layout. At least all my electrical is on the surface so its easy to change around.

 

[mike93lx]

I don't know what part of my earlier post said the conversation regarding this matter would be closed you don't understand. Let me handle it, you know zip. Thanks in advance.

Sounds great

 

[MetalBuildingFun]

That's a nice plan. It didn't work for me.

Been using my shop for the last 6-7 years since dismissing the builder. Still working on the layout. At least all my electrical is on the surface so its easy to change around.

Yeah, what we have done is placed tape at the locations we want the electrical, now we just have to decide just how high we are going to put it. So, that will come in when we get all the cabinets/workbenches in after the building is finished.

 

[MetalBuildingFun]

Sounds great

 

[yeldogt]

For the most part -- There are two kinds of shops. On has a few outlets w/ multi taps and extension cords everywhere. The other has outlets all over the pace (perfectly spaced) with nothing plug in because the owner has all new cordless Festool.

High outlets are great for benches as long as you know where they will go -- I'm not really fond of extension cords attached to high outlets. Some of my equipment is on wheels -- other items ...like my bandsaw and planer are stationary. I don't keep most of my 220 tools plugged in. I have found it's just as easy to plug them in and attach the flex tube for the vac. I'm not running a production shop.

I like low outlets by every door ... and I do find making some sort of charging station near a door is normally a good idea .. since switches and other things are already in that area.

My favorite way to wire is using one of the strip system -- both wiremould and hubble make excellent products and it eliminates any guess work.

My early shop had all of these 20amp feeds --- for what? Even back in the day with all of the corded tools I never needed the feeds.

I do like to keep my shop vac plugged in -- that's under one of the benches .. it shares a feed with a couple other in the shop (upright panel saw for rough cutting sheets) -- things that are not one together.

 

[KenC]

I a commercial building years ago that we used for an antique/collectibles mall. Not knowing exactly how much space would be needed for each dealer made wiring a problem.

What I came up with was sort of a compromise. I ran conduit on the walls about 8' up on a 16' wall (big old early 20th century building). I cut the sticks in half and placed a j-box every 5'. Not scientific placement, just conveniently a half stick. Ran my wiring and just spliced at very box. As dealers rented space and we knew the power needs, drops were added from the jboxes.

Worked so well, I've since done 3 workshops with that plan, conduit and boxes up high, drops added and moved as needs are determined or changed. Cost for conduit and boxes is minimal and I used standoff/clamps to keep bending to an absolute minimum, so quick to install.

 

[nsula_country]

I did 48". That's where the steel wall girt was...

CT