Electric Saw for cutting concrete

[zendriver]

I have some future cutting jobs that I’ll need to replace a sump pit maybe some placement for drain lines and cutting through some concrete walkways

checked on rent one, but with the tax are about $80 a day and I’m not expecting it to have a super sharp blade

I see some important ones that are under $400 so I was thinking that maybe 14 inch it would be adequate

Wet sawing looks like it would help keep dust down, but then I see some that have a court to be sucked into a vacuum. I have a new dust separator. I haven’t tried yet. Would that work with concrete?

What do you all have and how well do they work? Thanks.

 

[PCustoms]

Wet is the only way to go IMHO, these throw a lot of dust.

Have you considered buying a blade and just renting the saw?

For me buying a cheap 2-stroke to maintain doesn't make sense.

 

[Steve W.]

Several years ago, we rented a saw to cut a square edge in our new blacktop driveway so we could install paver stones along the edge. I don't remember the cost, but it was reasonable enough that I wasn't worried about it. Also don't remember whether the blade was toothed or abrasive, but it was certainly "sharp" enough to do the job. We DID have water flowing on the cut. Not only does it keep down the dust, it keeps the blade cool.

.

 

[The Cobbler]

wet saw for sure. a 1 day rental if you have everything planned out will give you a lot of time for cutting.
if you want to buy one, I would consider used so you can re sell later without a loss .

 

[zendriver]

Wet is the only way to go IMHO, these throw a lot of dust.

Have you considered buying a blade and just renting the saw?

For me buying a cheap 2-stroke to maintain doesn't make sense.

Change my title I was looking at electric saw.

Agree, not to mess with a two-stroke

If it works, I’ll be using it to cut a pretty good sized sunken sidewalk up into squares that I plan to turn into pavers

I’m getting pretty old so I don’t know if I can put a humongous amount of concrete sawing into one day

 

[PCustoms]

Change my title I was looking at electric saw.

Agree, not to mess with a two-stroke

If I used it a lot or had 1 job a cheap 2 stroke might be worth it. Then again, if I used it a lot I'd be buying a Stihl. One cut then parking it for months isn't where I'd want use a cheap one though.

No experience with the electric saws. Wonder if they are a slower rpm?

If it works, I’ll be using it to cut a pretty good sized sunken sidewalk up into squares that I plan to turn into pavers

I’m getting pretty old so I don’t know if I can put a humongous amount of concrete sawing into one day

I can't imagine trying to saw up a sidewalk into usable pavers. Even 20+ years ago when I would run the saw overhead on walls I wouldn't want to cut sidewalks into little, even chunks

 

[RTM]

can't imagine trying to saw up a sidewalk into usable pavers. Even 29 years ago when I would run the saw overhead on walls I wouldn't want to cut sidewalks into little, even chunks

I recently removed a sidewalk. Once I determined that it was gonna be 6 tons removed, and the same amount of gravel to replace it, I wrote a check.

 

[PCustoms]

I recently removed a sidewalk. Once I determined that it was gonna be 6 tons removed, and the same amount of gravel to replace it, I wrote a check.

So the pen is mightier then the saw. And sledge, wheelbarrow, rake etc.

 

[RTM]

So the pen is mightier then the saw. And sledge, wheelbarrow, rake etc.

And the excavator too. Watching how much the two guys were sweating even with their equipment, I was so glad my buddies and I did not try DIY.

 

[sparky 1971]

I have a two stroke saw with a diamond blade that I try not to use, but enough people borrow it that I don't worry about it sitting. It's been over 10 years ago that I ran it. There was one job that the GC wouldn't allow it due to the fumes so I rented an electric version. To say I was extremely disappointed, borderline pissed over the cutting ability VS the gas model would be grossly understated.

 

[Kscardsfan]

I have a two stroke saw with a diamond blade that I try not to use, but enough people borrow it that I don't worry about it sitting. It's been over 10 years ago that I ran it. There was one job that the GC wouldn't allow it due to the fumes so I rented an electric version. To say I was extremely disappointed, borderline pissed over the cutting ability VS the gas model would be grossly understated.

That bad?

 

[sparky 1971]

That bad?

It did the job and I probably wouldn't have a complaint if I wasn't used to the gas saw which is at least twice as fast. Ya gotta go slow with the electric and a fat guy having to bend over for extended periods of time isn't good.

 

[Kscardsfan]

It did the job and I probably wouldn't have a complaint if I wasn't used to the gas saw which is at least twice as fast. Ya gotta go slow with the electric and a fat guy having to bend over for extended periods of time isn't good.

Seeing as to how I'm the fat man in real life, I can appreciate where you're coming from.

 

[PCustoms]

It did the job and I probably wouldn't have a complaint if I wasn't used to the gas saw which is at least twice as fast. Ya gotta go slow with the electric and a fat guy having to bend over for extended periods of time isn't good.

Did you make 2 stroke sounds as you used it?

I've heard that makes the job go faster (for everyone watching)

 

[KnurledNut]

I have an electric 12” Bosch 1364. Its an absolute beast and I have used it for dry cutting both masonry and steel.
The Hilti 14” gas saw comes out when its serious work.
If I was just now getting into the market, I would look into battery powered options.

I cut out a very thick basement foundation wall for a window opening with a rented Husqvarna Cut-n-Break. A great option for jobs that standard quickie saws struggle with. It worked perfect and left clean precise cuts.

Note: I wouldn’t put any of these in inexperienced hands. Know what you are working with.

 

[Kscardsfan]

I have an electric 12” Bosch 1364. Its an absolute beast and I have used it for dry cutting both masonry and steel.
The Hilti 14” gas saw comes out when its serious work.
If I was just now getting into the market, I would look into battery powered options.

Note: I wouldn’t put any quickie saw in inexperienced hands. Know what you are working with.

Even in experienced hands they can get away from you and bite pretty fast.

 

[KnurledNut]

Even in experienced hands they can get away from you and bite pretty fast.

I’ve seen the gyroscope effect get some people in a bad way.

 

[kyrbz]

I have an 12" Evolution saw with dust suppression. I think when I originally bought it, the electric concrete saw Harbor Freight sold was a 10" saw and the 12" Evolution was not much more money and seemed to have a better warranty with free shipping to/back from their warranty/repair shop in Iowa. Now HF is selling a 14" for $239 which is considerably cheaper than the 12" Evolution. I've been happy with the Evolution, but I might have gone the HF route if I was purchasing today mainly for the extra cutting capacity although the 12" saw with heavy gauge extension cord will occasionally trip a 20 amp breaker. I'm only an occasional user, mainly using it for a renovation I'm working on. I didn't want to spend tons of money on a saw or have to mess with renting one every time I need one, so an electric has mostly filled my occasional use needs

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

I also have the evolution in an earlier version. I think I paid $219 for it. Got tired of renting them for a hundred bucks a day. I've used it all over the place it always works and always starts. It's fantastic haven't even replaced the blade yet and we have cut lots of concrete with it. You won't be sorry. Don't even look at a gas powered unless you do concrete work every single day all day.

 

[rd65]

Diamond blade with lots of water. Let the tool do the work, forcing it doesnt do anything but wear you and the equipment out. BTW this is my afternoon repair, TS800. I put an aftermarket Cross piston in it a year ago, spit the ring locating pin, so not it gets a new Stihl cylinder assy. DO NOT use aftermarket cylinders in TS saws. They DO NOT work.

 

[Bert_]

I've got an old Black and Decker, 12" blade I think. I've ran a gas saw in an enclosed space before and the electric definitely has a place there.

The electric is slower and you will still trip a 20A breaker a few times.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I remember years ago, a local rental place wanted $60+ for a day rental of a saw. I bought a 3 pack of masonry blades for the skilsaw and got the job one. That Skilsaw later died and I bought a replacement merely for "****" work.

 

[The Cobbler]

That Skilsaw later died and I bought a replacement merely for "****" work

that's where cheap saws from Habitat can come in handy .

 

[NUTTSGT]

that's where cheap saws from Habitat can come in handy .

LOL. The replacement came from Walmart. It was to live the sacrificial life of abuse. Much like a couple of grinders I bought at HF. They die so the good stuff lives another day.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I have some future cutting jobs that I’ll need to replace a sump pit maybe some placement for drain lines and cutting through some concrete walkways
What do you all have and how well do they work? Thanks.

I built bathrooms for 30 years.
Had to open concrete basement floors to run drain lines Many times.
I used a circular saw with a diamond cutting blade in it. Used a garden hose and trickled water in front of the blade to prevent all the dust.
It makes an appalling muddy mess but it worked good and did not dust up the entire building. Let the mess dry, scrape it up and mop it clean when you're done.
Make 3 cuts - each one deeper - rather than one deep cut.
Yes, you wear out a saw but tools are expendable and you get the job done.
Second photo shows where I cut out the concrete in our own basement to replace the floor drain and tie in the drain for the laundry tub and washing machine stand pipe ~ 12 years ago now.

 

[finn]

I bought a 14” Makita gas saw probably twelve, or maybe more years ago for $400. The seller claimed it was used for one patio project, and, as clean as it was, I believe him.

I went through three diamond blades on various projects, even though it is water cooled. Switched to abrasive blades and they don’t last as long, but cost less per foot of cut when you buy a pack of, I think, ten.

My plan was to sell it after that first project, but I seem to come up with another use for it every couple of years, so it’s still in my shed.

I fully expect to have fuel issues, as it’s not used much, but so far -so good on that.

 

[Nobody-named-Olli]

From my experience, my opinion:

Gas powered + water for dust suppression/ cooling for long and/or many cuts, outdoors only. (Unless you can guarantee air flow/circulation and constantly monitor air quality) Water flow on these is high, you can restrict it a bit but then it gets dusty fast. This is almost like running a hose straight. …

Electric + water for dust suppression/ cooling is most efficient indoors, if you can make a wet mess. Letting it dry before cleanup is generally not the worst idea, but depends heavily on the surroundings. If it’s a finished basement with tiles and all, you want to clean it up immediately while still wet. Otherwise you end up cleaning multiple times and probably with a suitable solvent to get the then present “cement haze” off. I’d recommend using an appropriate tool with “GFCI” build into cord only. Saw spins slower, less water, less mess/ easier to control.

In both instances, water sprays out the front and rear of the saw, it’s also not dust free when starting a cut. So cover everything, that can’t be moved out, in line with the cuts you need to make. Everything fairly close by should be covered for dust protection as well.

Electric + dust extraction is less mess, if you have a tool and a dust extractor that are both fit for the purpose. Will still spill dust while plunging/starting and exiting a cut. Installation of dust wall(s), dust door(s), (…) highly recommended. A separator will take quite a bit of load/stress off the dust extractor and is a good idea. However, make sure you still get enough suction at the dust shroud/ tool. Otherwise it’s a tradeoff not worth it.

If you start seeing excessive amounts of dust at times other than starting or exiting a cut, something is wrong. Stop & check. Dust shroud, hose and/or connectors like to get blocked.

If you go the angle grinder, diamond blade + dust shroud route, get a fully enclosed dust shroud. Not one of the metal ones that, while having a connector for a dust extractor, are still half open.

Not worth it: https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/products/19dc-9-2602025285

Worth it: https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/products/ga50dc-1600A003DR

Both just for reference, both exist for the large angle grinders as well. (At least around here …)


Kind regards,
Olli

 

[Kurt4440]

I’m getting pretty old so I don’t know if I can put a humongous amount of concrete sawing into one day

If you choose the rental route, see if they have a cart for the saw. It solves the back, arms, legs, breathing more fumes, and water dilemma all in one accessory.
Good luck. Please use appropriate PPE.

 

[dchawk81]

I'd be terrified to get one of these. I tend to want to get my money's worth.

 

[Ultradog MN]

From my experience, my opinion:

Gas powered + water for dust suppression/ cooling for long and/or many cuts, outdoors only. (Unless you can guarantee air flow/circulation and constantly monitor air quality) Water flow on these is high, you can restrict it a bit but then it gets dusty fast. This is almost like running a hose straight. …

Electric + water for dust suppression/ cooling is most efficient indoors, if you can make a wet mess. Letting it dry before cleanup is generally not the worst idea, but depends heavily on the surroundings. If it’s a finished basement with tiles and all, you want to clean it up immediately while still wet. Otherwise you end up cleaning multiple times and probably with a suitable solvent to get the then present “cement haze” off. I’d recommend using an appropriate tool with “GFCI” build into cord only. Saw spins slower, less water, less mess/ easier to control.

In both instances, water sprays out the front and rear of the saw, it’s also not dust free when starting a cut. So cover everything, that can’t be moved out, in line with the cuts you need to make. Everything fairly close by should be covered for dust protection as well.

Electric + dust extraction is less mess, if you have a tool and a dust extractor that are both fit for the purpose. Will still spill dust while plunging/starting and exiting a cut. Installation of dust wall(s), dust door(s), (…) highly recommended. A separator will take quite a bit of load/stress off the dust extractor and is a good idea. However, make sure you still get enough suction at the dust shroud/ tool. Otherwise it’s a tradeoff not worth it.

If you start seeing excessive amounts of dust at times other than starting or exiting a cut, something is wrong. Stop & check. Dust shroud, hose and/or connectors like to get blocked.

If you go the angle grinder, diamond blade + dust shroud route, get a fully enclosed dust shroud. Not one of the metal ones that, while having a connector for a dust extractor, are still half open.

Not worth it: https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/products/19dc-9-2602025285

Worth it: https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/products/ga50dc-1600A003DR

Both just for reference, both exist for the large angle grinders as well. (At least around here …)


Kind regards,
Olli

It took me longer to read all your recommendations than it did to cut out that piece of concrete in the picture.

 

[goodWood]

I also recommend the Evolution 12" with dust suppression. I used it in a basement for installing a French drain. Worked great for this one job so far. No exhaust fumes and the water really kept down all that nasty dust. I put a price alert and got it for $250 but I think the price is about $400 now.