Electric valve grinding tool

[timm1]

I noticed there is a small valve grinding machine on ebay pretty cheap from china but thery are 220 volts. Could they be converted to 120 volts? Also do they make a small valve grinder that has a cutting stone on it. [

 

[rsanter]

Step up transformer

 

[Kscardsfan]

Why not buy a good used unit off FBMP or CL for approximately the same money? Seems like I see a Sioux or Black and Decker pop up every few months around here.

 

[timm1]

The older ones are too big. I am looking for a smaller one. I had a sue not sure of spelling but it was too big so I sold it.

 

[atikovi]

How much are new valves these days that replacing them wouldn't be less trouble for better results?

 

[timm1]

I work also on older equippment and the valves need to be touched up instead of buying all new valves.

 

[timm1]

I have a hand valve refacer from newway but a valve had a slight ding in it so I put the valve on a drill press and used a file then I dressed it with my hand newway valve tool.

 

[The Cobbler]

you could easily make up a 240 cord to run it on, assuming you have 240 available . wouldn't need heavy cord as the amp draw would be very low

 

[txvwnut]

…

 

[timm1]

I was referring to this tool

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[timm1]

I was referring to this tool

Pardon Our Interruption...

here is the link

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[cannuck]

What you are looking it is not a "valve grinder" = it is just a horrible translation into English that is a valve lapping tool. Not only is it probably 220 only but I seriously doubt is has UL/CSA approved electrics (regardless of what it may say on the ID plate - Chinese will copy ANYTHING, including totallly BS approvals). You mentioned cleaning a valve up on a drill press with a file. For crying out loud DO NOT do that. For a valve to seal and wear properly onto its seat in the head, the angle, flatness and concentricity of the valve face must be very close to design spec - something you can't do freehand in a press or lathe (most can't get angle close enough). When you see you have a Neway vale cutting tool please provide an image. I have been a Neway customer for over 50 years and have never seen a valve facing tool. What they make are vale SEAT cutting tools, not face cutters - unless they are selling something I have never seen.

Trying to reface a valve by using the lapping tool you show is going to drastically shorten the life of the valve and seat which in your case of older equipment means the cylinder head itself. Just for reference: very few people even lap valves any more. I still do, but mostly for the purpose of verifying the flatness and concentricity of the valve-to-seat interface. It usually means to 10 minutes of very light lapping by hand with a fine compound. It is not how you re-establish (i.e. "grind") a seat or face.

 

[timm1]

I have a neway gizmatic 3 hand operated valve refacer.

 

[timm1]

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[Packard V8]

Trying to reface a valve by using the lapping tool you show is going to drastically shorten the life of the valve and seat which in your case of older equipment means the cylinder head itself. Just for reference: very few people even lap valves any more. . . .

For true. Valve grinding compound is nasty stuff and almost never seen in pro shops today.

Then, used valves and used valve guides are usually so worn, the wobble is enough home hand lapping is all over the place anyway. If parts must be reused, knurl and ream the guides, touch up the seats and valve faces with a stone grinder.

Best science would be bronze guide liners and new valves.

jack vines

 

[Kscardsfan]

For true. Valve grinding compound is nasty stuff and almost never seen in pro shops today.

Then, used valves and used valve guides are usually so worn, the wobble is enough home hand lapping is all over the place anyway. If parts must be reused, knurl and ream the guides, touch up the seats and valve faces with a stone grinder.

Best science would be bronze guide liners and new valves.

jack vines

I use valve compound for extra bite on screwdrivers etc. sometimes. But yes, it is in the same class as anti-seize or copper coat in my eyes. One drop will ruin all your clothes and the interior of your truck if it gets on you.

 

[lbhsbz]

you cannot operate a Chinese 220V tool off of anything directly available here in the US.

Our 220V is (2) 120V legs and a ground.

Their 220V is a single 220V leg and a neutral.

You have to buy a step up transformer....something like this: https://www.amazon.com/5000-Voltage...-LiteFuze/dp/B083C4VQZC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Fixr]

What you are looking it is not a "valve grinder" = it is just a horrible translation into English that is a valve lapping tool. Not only is it probably 220 only but I seriously doubt is has UL/CSA approved electrics (regardless of what it may say on the ID plate - Chinese will copy ANYTHING, including totallly BS approvals). You mentioned cleaning a valve up on a drill press with a file. For crying out loud DO NOT do that. For a valve to seal and wear properly onto its seat in the head, the angle, flatness and concentricity of the valve face must be very close to design spec - something you can't do freehand in a press or lathe (most can't get angle close enough). When you see you have a Neway vale cutting tool please provide an image. I have been a Neway customer for over 50 years and have never seen a valve facing tool. What they make are vale SEAT cutting tools, not face cutters - unless they are selling something I have never seen.

Trying to reface a valve by using the lapping tool you show is going to drastically shorten the life of the valve and seat which in your case of older equipment means the cylinder head itself. Just for reference: very few people even lap valves any more. I still do, but mostly for the purpose of verifying the flatness and concentricity of the valve-to-seat interface. It usually means to 10 minutes of very light lapping by hand with a fine compound. It is not how you re-establish (i.e. "grind") a seat or face.

I'm going to argue with you a bit just because this is GJ and that's what we do. This is not directly about the OP.


I have resurrected a few small engines for another season by doing stuff that no manufacturer would approve, like chucking up valves in a worn out POS lathe and cutting (not grinding) the sealing surface back to shiny metal. Not the right angles or margins or any of that. Just an angle that would seal for a while. The terribly worn old engine typically still burned a lot of oil because the rings and valve guides were sloppy and floppy. But they usually ran for another season or more and got the job done for very little money. I really like doing high-end precision work, but sometimes stone knives and bearskins get the job done.

 

[lbhsbz]

What you are looking it is not a "valve grinder" = it is just a horrible translation into English that is a valve lapping tool. Not only is it probably 220 only but I seriously doubt is has UL/CSA approved electrics (regardless of what it may say on the ID plate - Chinese will copy ANYTHING, including totallly BS approvals). You mentioned cleaning a valve up on a drill press with a file. For crying out loud DO NOT do that. For a valve to seal and wear properly onto its seat in the head, the angle, flatness and concentricity of the valve face must be very close to design spec - something you can't do freehand in a press or lathe (most can't get angle close enough). When you see you have a Neway vale cutting tool please provide an image. I have been a Neway customer for over 50 years and have never seen a valve facing tool. What they make are vale SEAT cutting tools, not face cutters - unless they are selling something I have never seen.

Trying to reface a valve by using the lapping tool you show is going to drastically shorten the life of the valve and seat which in your case of older equipment means the cylinder head itself. Just for reference: very few people even lap valves any more. I still do, but mostly for the purpose of verifying the flatness and concentricity of the valve-to-seat interface. It usually means to 10 minutes of very light lapping by hand with a fine compound. It is not how you re-establish (i.e. "grind") a seat or face.

If you've got an old engine with pitting on the valve and seat sealing surfaces, lapping is way to help with that, and depending on ones persistence and the extent of the damage....even solve it in a halfway acceptable manner. Will it be as good as new?....no. Will it be considerably better than it was and run again?....probably.

I wouldn't spend any money on an electric valve lapper....I'd just do it with one of those things you roll back and forth between your hands....kit used to be $10 or so at the Napa and come with a couple small cans of lapping compound (coarse and fine). If its an OHV engine, just grab the valve stem with a cordless drill and use that. Flathead engines need the suction cup thingy.

 

[American Locomotive]

Are you looking for a valve lapping machine (to spin the valve in the head?) or a valve grinding machine - to physically reshape the valve's sealing surface? Two very different things.

 

[Hannahranga]

you cannot operate a Chinese 220V tool off of anything directly available here in the US.

Our 220V is (2) 120V legs and a ground.

Their 220V is a single 220V leg and a neutral.

You have to buy a step up transformer....something like this: https://www.amazon.com/5000-Voltage...-LiteFuze/dp/B083C4VQZC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

220v is 220v, if it's made to standards it'll be fine. If it is or not is a completely different question

 

[lbhsbz]

220v is 220v, if it's made to standards it'll be fine. If it is or not is a completely different question

No it's not. 220V in europe/china uses a single 220V leg. 220V in the USA (or 240V, or whatever you wanna all it) uses a pair of 110V legs and a ground.

With a device with 2 input conductors....one of which wants 220V and the other of which wants a neutral, how would you hook up to that with conventional USA household electricity? My panel has 2 110V (or 120V, whatever you wanna call it) conductors coming in and a neutral. There is no manner in which to get to a single 220V conductor with typical USA supply without a converter. I believe Europe/China also operates at 50hz, while we use 60hz (don't quote me on that)

 

[whateg01]

Ffs! As long as the internal wiring keeps the "neutral" from any chassis metal, it doesn't matter! How many devices do you own now that connect the 120 v neutral to the metal chassis?

 

[whateg01]

The older ones are too big. I am looking for a smaller one. I had a sue not sure of spelling but it was too big so I sold it.

What you are looking it is not a "valve grinder" = it is just a horrible translation into English that is a valve lapping tool. Not only is it probably 220 only but I seriously doubt is has UL/CSA approved electrics (regardless of what it may say on the ID plate - Chinese will copy ANYTHING, including totallly BS approvals).

Not many customers actually care about that.

... concentricity of the valve face must be very close to design spec - something you can't do freehand in a press or lathe (most can't get angle close enough).

I can get "awfully close" on a lathe with a tool post grinder and a 4 jaw.

 

[timm1]

Sory I can't see pictures I am blind what was that picture on the last post thanks.

 

[Hannahranga]

No it's not. 220V in europe/china uses a single 220V leg. 220V in the USA (or 240V, or whatever you wanna all it) uses a pair of 110V legs and a ground.

With a device with 2 input conductors....one of which wants 220V and the other of which wants a neutral, how would you hook up to that with conventional USA household electricity? My panel has 2 110V (or 120V, whatever you wanna call it) conductors coming in and a neutral. There is no manner in which to get to a single 220V conductor with typical USA supply without a converter. I believe Europe/China also operates at 50hz, while we use 60hz (don't quote me on that)

Pick a 110v leg and connect that to the device neutral, voltages aren't magic long as there's a 220v potential between the active and neutral it'll work.

 

[lbhsbz]

Pick a 110v leg and connect that to the device neutral, voltages aren't magic long as there's a 220v potential between the active and neutral it'll work.

I suppose on a simple motor it might, but if there is any sort of control board....the 50hz vs 60hz thing tends to foul up the works

 

[timm1]

I bought a valve grinder and he said it works but he did not know if all the parts are there. Can any one tell if it is missing parts thanks? I will try to send a picture.

 

[timm1]

I canciled the one I bought and purchased a black&decker which works fine but I am missing the stone dresser and the part used to grind the valve stem flat. There is no model on it it just says a645 and I will send pictures maybe someone can tell me more about it to get parts.