Electric water heater

[v1ru5879]

What do I need to do to bring this secondary water heater to code. It's my understanding that the pex needs to go and it has to be the stainless steel or corrugated copper that's directly attached to the unit. Anything else I am missing?

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[Parrothead]

WTF?!? There are no words.

 

[Bulldog13]

Where is that blowoff valve going to ?

 

[v1ru5879]

I guess thats what you get when get a water heater plus install for $200. Water heater was brand new I will give them that. I would really like to help out my family and make the connections right cause they always seem to get duped by plumbers in their area

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[v1ru5879]

It's run to an outside area pointing down above some bricks. Looks like everything is original n the guy did the unit n pex lines n tied into the original lines with sharkbites

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[59 wagon man]

hard to tell what is necessary due to you not posting a location.amazing price as the water heater costs over $200

 

[v1ru5879]

hard to tell what is necessary due to you not posting a location.amazing price as the water heater costs over $200

In Santa Fe county New Mexico. Well water. Yeah I was expecting much worse when I was told what was paid for everything. As far as function never heard if it giving any problems or issues for the last 4 years it has been in use. As per county website plumbing code follows the UPC in the code book

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[Jackfre]

Fire the plumber!

 

[coleman10]

Where is your breaker panel? Is it within sight when standing at the heater’s location? Also see exposed, unsecured wire connections on top of the heater. There should be a cover on those connections. Is the breaker properly sized for this unit?

 

[nadogail]

A call to the state contractors license board should get them on to the "Plumber" like a ton of bricks.

 

[coleman10]

This is why I advise everyone who asks me about a water heater to make sure the contractor pulls a permit. They always want to get “a guy” because they feel it’s a simple job when in reality a poor install job can lead to disastrous and possibly explosive results.

 

[coleman10]

Just realized that exposed Romex needs to be protected. Bare wire outside of walls is not allowed. I’m guessing here that there should be a flexible whip going from the heater to a dedicated disconnect (assuming the panel is not within sight since the wire is poking through a wall). No idea what’s happening on the other side.

I know this was an inexpensive install, but there’s no substitute for safety. This guy put your family’s safety at risk.

 

[BillK]

That is U G L Y but I have to ask for my own education . . . . other than the wires not being covered is there actually anything that does not meet code ? It definitely is not pretty but should function unless you are not allowed to have the plastic lines going directly to the heater.

Just curious more than anything,

 

[jetrep]

I wonder what the thinking was behind the electrical tape on some of the plumbing connections.

 

[58Yeoman]

I wouldn't want the Pressure/relief valve being piped somewhere else. If it's building up pressure, you want to be sure it gets out of there.

 

[BillK]

I wouldn't want the Pressure/relief valve being piped somewhere else. If it's building up pressure, you want to be sure it gets out of there.

I think he said it was run outside.

 

[sberry]

The water don't know its ugly. The cold is likely fine, put a metal on the hot for a ways if its bothering. What is the temp set at? The wire needs a connector and the cover.
It would have looked neater with an elbow on the bottom cold and remove some old stuff and plumbed direct to the valves but it isn't leaking? This **** is low on the risk scale, I have seen some real dandys. I have seen 100 yr old KT draped over bathtub drain to ungrounded tub. Seen a handyman intentionally clip the ground wire out of every install he did, lots of electric heaters floating around.

 

[flat350]

Get a foot or two of copper attached to the heater cold and hot and the relief should be piped with a metallic pipe and down.Eliminate all of the roller coaster turns and neaten it up.Whats under the grey wrapped up lines coming out of the wall?

 

[v1ru5879]

Thanks for all the input [emoji106] the breaker is within sight of the heater if I remember correctly. The pressure relief is ran to outside the back garage door. The guy who did this work was obviously by no means a plumber, I'm not joking when I say he did it all for $200 unit and install. Ok I can see where the Romex would need shielding also n do they sell covers for the tops made specifically?

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[v1ru5879]

Get a foot or two of copper attached to the heater cold and hot and the relief should be piped with a metallic pipe and down.Eliminate all of the roller coaster turns and neaten it up.Whats under the grey wrapped up lines coming out of the wall?

They are corrugated copper lines, it's insulation taped over

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[Siegel1719]

Is that really 14 gauge wire feeding the water heater? That is a huge fire hazard. 14 gauge is rated at 15 amps and a 5000w water heater will pull 22-25 amps usually. That needs to be corrected ASAP. Also is the water heater grounded? With the PEX connections it is no longer bonded to your water lines.

 

[buzzworth]

Is that really 14 gauge wire feeding the water heater? That is a huge fire hazard. 14 gauge is rated at 15 amps and a 5000w water heater will pull 22-25 amps usually. That needs to be corrected ASAP. Also is the water heater grounded? With the PEX connections it is no longer bonded to your water lines.

I was going to ask if that was old 12 gauge or 14. 4500 watt elements need 12.

The way the original water lines are short, where they would have hooked to the top, makes me wonder if this electric wasn't put in to replace a gas heater. Is there a vent stack somewhere above it ?

 

[Mr. T]

Where is that blowoff valve going to ?

At least a little bit of it is insulated! Why look at the negatives?

 

[Busted Knucles]

Put a plastic pan or some bricks under the bottom of it and get it off the concrete. Its going to rust the bottom out.

 

[v1ru5879]

I know this unit replaced another electric unit there is no vent above it as would be for a gas one. The wiring looks original the only thing I can figure is the old unit had both hot and cold coming out the top

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[Norcal]

The way the piping for the T&P valve is arranged, it creates a trap and that is not allowed, it must be arranged to drain & not leave any water in the line.

 

[Bert_]

She's a beaut Clark...

Worst part is the original lines would be fine if the water heater had top inlet and outlets.

Could probably do a 90 and piece of vertical copper pipe on inlet and outlet. Not sure about the t&p valve. I wouldn't want to redo it to much. When this water heater kicks the bucket you could go back to the same as original.

Electrical just needs a cover. And no you aren't going to find one. Get an oct or 4 sq cover with a knock out. Drill a couple holes in the new cover so it matches up.

The Romex doesn't need to be sleeved or protected. It's only required if it's subject to damage. This looks pretty protected back in a corner.

Looks like #10 to me. Not sure where anybody is getting #14 from?

I'm just a dumb electrician and I even know you're not supposed to run pex right off the water heater

 

[v1ru5879]

I appreciate all the solid info. Gotta get this to code for my family. I appreciate all the input. Looks like some simple fixes.

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[maxpat82]

She's a beaut Clark...

Worst part is the original lines would be fine if the water heater had top inlet and outlets.
When this water heater kicks the bucket you could go back to the same as original.

a bottom feed electric heater is more efficient then a top feed and give you about 10% more useable hot water before it goes cold.


you guys have totally different code then us here in quebec, canada.
we can be straight pex out of the heater...a lot of people use a braided line but it's only for convenience/speed of installation.(screwed on the heater and sharkbite on the copper/pex of the house)
the pressure relief is only cheapo plastic tubing that drop straight down close to the floor.
electrical wire is the same.

 

[coleman10]

The way the piping for the T&P valve is arranged, it creates a trap and that is not allowed, it must be arranged to drain & not leave any water in the line.

That is correct. I just noticed how that is slung over the top.

V1RU, the reason for water to fully drain away from the TPR valve because if water is left against the valve, it could corrode and fail. If the valve is corroded, it may not open to prevent an explosion.

 

[mike93lx]

Looks like #10 to me. Not sure where anybody is getting #14 from?

Jacket color. I bet many people don't know the history of jacket coloring and on top of that, most people probably haven't seen much old #10 NM. Since old #12 and #10 were both available in white, that doesn't make it any easier.

 

[v1ru5879]

Finally got some time coming up to tackle this. So I'll do some 90s at the inlet n out. Use some copper line up to the corrugated. Make sure the pressure relief drains down as to not keep water in the line. Hate for them to pay a plumber for literally 3 lines

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[theoldwizard1]

Where is that blowoff valve going to ?

Around here, the PT valve pipe has to go straight down and terminate within 4" of the floor.

Some local codes require water heaters to be on a pedestal (or is that just for gas ?). Also some codes require it to be strapped to wall (stud).

 

[v1ru5879]

Yeah I will route the PT to go straight down then to the drain area. I would hope to maybe salvage the current flexible copper with some solid copper

 

[mike93lx]

Just point the pt straight down. No need to route it anywhere

 

[parb]

I just looked up my local codes. First 5 feet from the heater has to be insulated but they allow pex (this differs from the UPC). The drain can't create a trap, it has to fully drain (so down). And we have earthquakes so multiple straps.
I personally would put this in a pan. They are cheap and it will get it off the floor where rust can kill it.

And yeah, cover the electrical connections up on top.
I think its ugly, but is it that unsafe? I'm not sure its really that bad.

 

[CJ7VFR]

Just point the pt straight down. No need to route it anywhere

Around here, the PT valve pipe has to go straight down and terminate within 4" of the floor.

Some local codes require water heaters to be on a pedestal (or is that just for gas ?). Also some codes require it to be strapped to wall (stud).

The local codes here in my part of NJ must meet these two things as well.

The PT valve has to point straight down and terminate within 4 inches of the floor as you guys mentioned.

And the water heater itself, whether directly heated by gas, oil or electric or indirect styles as well, have to be placed on top of some type of pedestal that is a minimum of 4 inches thick. Most installers around here use the solid 4 inch thick concrete patio blocks.

Jim

 

[fitter30]

Left pic is that black pipe fittings? One way to get your iron everyday.

 

[v1ru5879]

I believe the original PT was routed in a way to where it would drain just outside the garage door so that is what I was thinking to keep. The flooring where it sits is covered with flashing so its not actually on top of concrete. There is no drain in the area that it is located so I would assume that is why they had it plumbed to drain out that way. I was thinking of getting a 1 gang knockout cover to cover exposed wires. The unit works like a dream the main issue was that this was caught on a home inspection and deemed unsafe and requires immediate attention. About the black pipe fittings I believe that is the boiler you are seeing for the baseboard heaters they have

 

[mike93lx]

You don't need a drain for the PT. It likely won't ever have any water coming out of it. You are solving for a problem that doesn't exist. Run it straight down, like every other water heater out there