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Electrical box needed for fluorescent fixtures?

raferguson

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Aug 31, 2017
Messages
63
Location
Colorado
In my new/old shop, they did not bother to put in an electrical box for each fluorescent light fixture. The fixtures are flush with the drywall ceiling. The wire nuts are out in the open, in the attic. I am trying not to go crazy fixing every possible problem on a 50 year old house.

Do I just live with this, and do better the next time I install a light?

Should I go back and change out what is already there?

How should it have been done? My guess is that there should have been a standard electrical box, with the fluorescent fixture mounted on top of it, and the wire nuts pushed up into the box. It would be a bit awkward to handle, given that these fixtures are 8 foot long.

As a side note, I am putting in a new 100 amp subpanel for the garage. I currently use a 50 amp circuit for my welders, but I want to be covered in case I get a bigger welder. I have already installed GFI outlets everywhere in the shop, kitchen, and bath.
 
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Bert_

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Dec 24, 2016
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9,728
Location
NW Iowa
Normal method would be to run the wire trough a clamp into the back of the fixture and make all connections inside the light.

Alternatively you can use a box, but to technically be correct you would need to have a hole in the back of the fixture almost a big around as the box. That is the only way the box would be accessible.
 

EOC_Jason

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Jun 25, 2012
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Location
Bentonville, AR
I typically make the connection in the light fixture, but I do mount a round box above the light fixture for the wires to come through. That gives flexibility for other lighting methods later on...
 

driftpin

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Dec 22, 2016
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Miami-Dade/Broward Co. Florida
Think about the possibility of arcing wire nuts out in the open, in the attic. Your fire source, as it would be. Either place a box in the attic for each connection, or route the wires into the luminaire, and make the connection.
 

PT Doc

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Nov 12, 2010
Messages
3,197
Any junction box is better than none in this application. But then again if it's been ok for 50 years maybe it's overkill but i don't think this would pass an electrical inspection of done today.
 

toolnut

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Joined
Jul 19, 2009
Messages
755
Location
Lockport,NY
Running a whip to a box in the attic off of the fixture is the best way to go. Then you can add or remove lights as needed. You never want bare wires hanging out anywhere.
 

Premium08

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Jun 6, 2014
Messages
362
Location
Littleton, NC
Should be as simple as adding a cable clamp on the fixture where the wires come, and then just unhook wires, put wires through clamp and hook back up in fixture

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
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ard

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Feb 16, 2015
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Location
Sierra Foothills... California
I typically make the connection in the light fixture, but I do mount a round box above the light fixture for the wires to come through. That gives flexibility for other lighting methods later on...

Ditto.

I will make any connections I need IN the box, and then run the three wires (Wht,Blk,Grn) for connection inside the light.

So if there are lights daisy chained, I will have a line in, a line out and wires to the light. COnnect all these, push the connecotors up into the box. Then place the light, route the 3 wires through a knockout in the light. Connect the fixture wires to these inside the light.

That way the whole circuit 'works' with or without any one light mounted. AND the wiring of the light is independent of the mounting process.

I haven't mounted skinny single tube fluorescents in 25+ years, all my lights will cover a 4" box...
 

wyliesdiesels

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Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,013
Location
Modesto, CA
Out of curiosity, what difference does it make?

The OP said he had a 50a circuit for welder and he was adding a subpanel.

If this was in andetached building, the existing circuit would need to be disconnected from the house and moved to the new subpanel as code does not allow more than one feed to a detached structure.
 

Fishingfoolemjak

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Mar 21, 2017
Messages
176
Location
Sylva, NC
The OP said he had a 50a circuit for welder and he was adding a subpanel.

If this was in andetached building, the existing circuit would need to be disconnected from the house and moved to the new subpanel as code does not allow more than one feed to a detached structure.

Oh, I thought you were referring to the flying splices! :D
 

NUTTSGT

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Sep 14, 2009
Messages
50,954
Location
Northern Central Ohio
All my fluorescents have the connection made in the fixture and a clamp holding the romex (NM) at the entrance to the box.

I did stub a short 6-8" piece of conduit into the fixture on a few of them to get the wire up past the attic insulation. On those, the wire is stapled as close as possible to the conduit. That way I could find them without rooting through the fiberglass insulation.
 
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