electrical crimp assortment

[rossddvm]

I have done a very poor job on electrical connections in the past using cheapo strippers and crimpers or even just side cutters and pliers. I wrapped connections in black tape and called it good enough. I have several wiring projects ahead and want to do better. I have bought a couple Channel lock and Klein tools. I would like to buy a good assortment of good or better quality splices and connectors. Looming projects are redoing the wiring on my utility trailer, adding some accessories to a new Honda motorcycle, Fixing some electrical issues on a 1974 BMW motorcycle. Also splicing damaged cords on some shop squirrel cage fans.

Any recommendations on a connector assortment? It would be nice to have a go to box for all this type of stuff. Bonus would be getting assortment of shrink tubing in the same box.

 

[tonyciambrone]

I have done a very poor job on electrical connections in the past using cheapo strippers and crimpers or even just side cutters and pliers. I wrapped connections in black tape and called it good enough.

1: I hope you are talking about 12V wiring.
2: I like to twist and solder connections. next best is 3m **** connectors with heat shrink, followed with a piece of heat shrink over that whole connection. Ratcheting style crimpers are best.

I have ordered heavy wall heat shrink from this company. It is a 3m product and I am pretty sure this kit is 3m stuff too. I might be biased but they're wire nuts, electrical tape, shrink tubing and connectors are the best I've used

https://www.cableorganizer.com/elel...MIn5XunLX31QIVETuBCh39yw65EAQYASABEgJQY_D_BwE

 

[kelving884]

Have you seen these? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07124B886/?tag=atomicindus08-20

It's your electrical connector with an adhesive lined heat shrink. I use them on any outdoor, (atv, boat, etc.) wiring.

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[rossddvm]

Have you seen these? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07124B886/?tag=atomicindus08-20

It's your electrical connector with an adhesive lined heat shrink. I use them on any outdoor, (atv, boat, etc.) wiring.

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Thanks, this looks like just what I need for the 12v stuff

 

[rossddvm]

1: I hope you are talking about 12V wiring.
2: I like to twist and solder connections. next best is 3m **** connectors with heat shrink, followed with a piece of heat shrink over that whole connection. Ratcheting style crimpers are best.

I have ordered heavy wall heat shrink from this company. It is a 3m product and I am pretty sure this kit is 3m stuff too. I might be biased but they're wire nuts, electrical tape, shrink tubing and connectors are the best I've used.

https://www.cableorganizer.com/elel...MIn5XunLX31QIVETuBCh39yw65EAQYASABEgJQY_D_BwE

The trailer, bikes and truck all 12v wiring. The fans are 120 volt. I was mostly interested in the 12v stuff, but also thought it would be good to be able to do 120v household stuff also. These kits look to be more than I will likely ever use.

 

[Jeeper]

I like to use uninsulated crimp connectors with adhesive lined shrink tub. I have never really found a good assortment kit of the uninsulated variety but generally go through more **** connectors anything so just buy them from NAPA.

Here is a thread from a while back on crimp vs soldier as that is bound to come up again:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123007

 

[Zeus36]

Go with Posi-connectors.

No tool required as they don't crimp. Best thing in the connector industry in years. Used in auto, motorcycle, snowmobile, ATV, boating, home and auto stereo wiring.

They issue kits that are MIL-SPEC as well.

Posi-Lock® Connectors – Multi-Paks
• Posi-Tap™ Connectors
• Posi-Seal™ Weather-Tite Connectors
• Posi-Tite™ Water-Tite Connectors
• Mobile Electronic Connector Kits
• In-Line Fuseholders
• Posi-Twist™ Connectors
• Assortments

https://www.posi-products.com/shoponline.cfm

OR on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=posi-products&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aposi-products

 

[FigureItOut]

I would advise against any of the Amazon/EBay etc. no name kits. Frequently they are rebrands of quality connectors like 3M, but even then they're usually lower tier products. The best sources for me with websites that are easy to navigate are Waytekwire.com and delcity.net. Waytek lists the manufacturer, while Del City does not, though I think they both carry the same Molex and 3M terminals.

A lot of the assortments seem to do a poor job with the selection and quantities. For what you're doing, you're likely to use a lot of 18-22 AWG **** connectors and very few 10-12 spade terminals, but the assortment will have the same number of each. In my opinion, you'd be better served to pick and choose what you'll use and buy say 25-100 of each.

Look for nylon or heat shrink insulation over vinyl. The nylon isn't THAT much better than vinyl for your application but the cost difference is negligible.

The manufactures to look for that I'm aware of who make high quality terminals that are easily available: Molex, TE Connectivity (AMP), Thomas & Betts (Sta-Kon), and of course 3M, which has a wide range of quality that's difficult to navigate, but even their lower tier nylon terminals are good.

It's always best to use the crimping tool recommended by the terminal manufacturer, which usually means spending $$$ on controlled cycle crimpers. I've found a couple interesting exceptions to this however that are worth noting.

Molex has two grades available for many of their ratcheting crimpers. The "service grade", according to them, are perfectly acceptable for field repair and very small scale production, and they can be had for around $60. I had service grade Molex crimper and comparing to the pro grade at around $400, I didn't see a ton of difference and was glad I didn't pay full price for the pro grade.

Thomas & Betts Sta-kon paired with their non-ratcheting, sub-$50 hand crimpers would also be a great choice for field repairs. Their website lists specific tooling for every terminal but their WT112M hand crimper covers all the basic insulated and non-insulated terminals.

The advantage to pairing terminals to the manufactures recommended crimper is the confidence that the two are specifically engineered to work together to achieve reliable, repeatable crimps.

Whatever you do, find a brand of terminals and crimpers that work well together, and STICK TO IT. No name brands may switch suppliers etc., so don't just get a nice looking kit and replenish it from wherever. Find a single, consistent source.

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[toplessHO]

cant go wrong with 3M,T&B(sta-kon),Panduit connectors
buy a good fishing tackle or organizer box and every time you do a project
buy a box(normally they come 25,50,or 100 per) of the style you need.
they never go bad and its nice to have a terminal when you need it.

 

[AZ Pete]

I have read that crimped connections are superior to soldered....there was a reference to NASA specifications. That changed my mind about crimping....no more soldering for me.


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[JoeFin]

Figureitout gave you some pretty good advice - it would serve you well to listen to it.

Your going to need quality crimping tools and I would look to eboner for UL approved "Ratcheting Type" crimp tools. He named the obvious ones you'll need but you'll also run across the European variant of the molex pin connector too being your looking to work on foreign autos and bikes.

Personally I don't get too excited about the "Insulated Sta-kons" as they take up way too much space. If you need insulation then you can always slide some "Heat Shrink" over it once you've made the connection.

And these little stackable Craftsman boxes are perfect for your connector assortment

 

[kylefitz]

Uninsulated crimp connectors and glue lined heat shrink is the way to go in my opinion. I have had good luck ordering assortments on eBay and then restocking (mostly **** splices) from Del city or waytech.

 

[Treeman]

- Look for nylon or heat shrink insulation over vinyl. The nylon isn't THAT much better than vinyl for your application but the cost difference is negligible.

- The manufactures to look for that I'm aware of who make high quality terminals that are easily available: Molex, TE Connectivity (AMP), Thomas & Betts (Sta-Kon), and of course 3M, which has a wide range of quality that's difficult to navigate, but even their lower tier nylon terminals are good.

- I know that the marine forums recommend quality nylon insulation. When I research suppliers, it seems that the nylon ones lack some of the electrical code approvals. Some sites suggest its because nylon absorbs humidity. Comments? EDIT: CAN'T FIND MY LINKS TO THIS POSSIBLE MISINFORMATION, SO TAKE WITH GRAIN OF SALT FOR NOW. SORRY.

- Molex, TE Connectivity (AMP), Thomas & Betts (Sta-Kon), and of course 3M. I find the T&B terminal choices not too hard to navigate. But man, go to the Molex site and they literally have dozens of variations of a single style. I.e., they have over 1,000 part numbers for ring and spade terminals. Narrow it down to wire size, spade size, insulation, barrel type, and then they have a dozen variations? How does one choose a "generic" style from all the different part numbers?

 

[FigureItOut]

- I know that the marine forums recommend quality nylon insulation. When I research suppliers, it seems that the nylon ones lack some of the electrical code approvals. Some sites suggest its because nylon absorbs humidity. Comments?

I can't knowledgeably comment on that, but I'd be interested to learn more. It may be that nylon is better for a marine/ automotive application.

- Molex, TE Connectivity (AMP), Thomas & Betts (Sta-Kon), and of course 3M. I find the T&B terminal choices not too hard to navigate. But man, go to the Molex site and they literally have dozens of variations of a single style. I.e., they have over 1,000 part numbers for ring and spade terminals. Narrow it down to wire size, spade size, insulation, barrel type, and then they have a dozen variations? How does one choose a "generic" style from all the different part numbers?

Ha ha, yeah a lot of those manufacturers don't make it easy. In the case of Molex, Waytek has done that work for you by carrying the basics. I really like the Molex terminals with the extra brass sleeve that grips the insulation, but you really need the crimper that does both crimps in a single action. The cool thing about Molex too, is that you can call and reach a well informed human pretty easily. I've called them a few times and gotten a pretty good breakdown after explaining what I needed.

T&B does make it a bit easier, but I wish they'd have a key to decipher the different series. Check out the TE Connectivity site sometime if you really want to make your head spin, or spend $1000 on a single application hand crimper, ha ha.

I have read that crimped connections are superior to soldered....there was a reference to NASA specifications. That changed my mind about crimping....no more soldering for me.

This is true with a couple caveats. It is much easier and cheaper to achieve a good solder joint than a good crimp joint. The vast majority of people will not spend the time and money on the knowledge and tooling for good crimp joints.

A poor or mediocre crimp is much worse than a solder joint, imo, and a well done and WELL SECURED (environmental and electrical insulation, abrasion protection, strain relief, vibration mitigation) solder joint can be very reliable.

 

[pstemari]

Digikey is the best place to get crimp terminals that I've found. All the major brands at good prices.

The Insulkrimp series from Molex is what I normally go to. UL listed and very tough, e.g. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/Molex,+LLC/0192760005/WM6243-ND/2793745

Pair those with a Greenlee/Paladin ratchet crimper and appropriate die, e.g. https://amzn.com/B0012YQ9TO/, and you're go to go. I've crimped those terminals onto solid, not stranded, wire and the connection is so solid that the site will snap before the connector lets go.

Btw, to get a UL listing, crimp terminals have to pass holding tests on solid wire or be marked "stranded only" on each connector. It's why you see so many non-ul listed connectors

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[sberry]

I bought mine from Napa on sale and then got bulk of the ones I use from the flea from a vendor had them by the bushel. I have bought Panduit too, to tell the truth I don't notice much difference and often simply use 1 size heavier if I am concerned about durability.

 

[pstemari]

The difference in terminals is generally the type and gauge of the metal they're made from, whether the barrel seam is butted or actually brazed together, the funnel entry into the barrel, and the serrations inside the barrel to hold the wire. Good ones will be made from heavy gauge brass or phosphor bronze, a nice smooth funnel entry, and deep serrations to grab the wire. Cheap ones will be made from tin-plated steel with no funnel and no serrations.

You really don't want to use an oversized terminal because the barrel won't squash into the wire firmly. The barrel needs to be pretty full before crimping, and a good crimp will actually flow the wire strands together.

 

[rlitman]

When you cross section a good crimp, the wires will usually be turned into hexagons with no space between them.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I like to use uninsulated crimp connectors with adhesive lined shrink tub. I have never really found a good assortment kit of the uninsulated variety but generally go through more **** connectors anything so just buy them from NAPA.

DITTO !! (Except for the refills from NAPA.)

I have bee a snob and limited myself to TE Connectivity uninsulated Solistrand terminals. That was what we used at work 20 years ago and they are still being made. The have a good tin coating over copper and are easy to crimp.

Over the years, I have acquired a good selection of terminals, but they do not make a fast disconnect set.

Most electronics warehouses carry them, but I have found that Mouser has the most reasonable shipping rates on small order. They will sell you as few as you want or as many. Price breaks are usually at 25 and 100 quantity.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The difference in terminals is generally the type and gauge of the metal they're made from, whether the barrel seam is butted or actually brazed together, ...

Solistrand are just butted. I like this design because when I crimp them, I place the protruding part of the crimp die directly on top of the seam for best results.

 

[pstemari]

Solistrand are just butted. I like this design because when I crimp them, I place the protruding part of the crimp die directly on top of the seam for best results.

Yeah, getting the correct die placement is important. A good die will have two crimp zones, one for the conductors and another for the insulation. Uninsulated terminals often get a curly crimp with the edges doubled over and pressed into the wire.

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[FigureItOut]

Solistrand are just butted. I like this design because when I crimp them, I place the protruding part of the crimp die directly on top of the seam for best results.

The correct way with a butted seam is to orient the protruding side of the die opposite the seam. You don't want to split the seam.

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[4 Ever-Fish N]

Most importantly, which model of new Honda motorcycle did you get?

I have done a very poor job on electrical connections in the past using cheapo strippers and crimpers or even just side cutters and pliers. I wrapped connections in black tape and called it good enough. I have several wiring projects ahead and want to do better. I have bought a couple Channel lock and Klein tools. I would like to buy a good assortment of good or better quality splices and connectors. Looming projects are redoing the wiring on my utility trailer, adding some accessories to a new Honda motorcycle, Fixing some electrical issues on a 1974 BMW motorcycle. Also splicing damaged cords on some shop squirrel cage fans.

Any recommendations on a connector assortment? It would be nice to have a go to box for all this type of stuff. Bonus would be getting assortment of shrink tubing in the same box.

 

[rpcraft]

Not one joke about Cheap Strippers???? WOW

 

[rossddvm]

Most importantly, which model of new Honda motorcycle did you get?

Honda CB500x I really like it. I got it in May and have put about 4,000 miles on it so far. Economical, light and flickable. I also have a 2004 BMW r11000s. The bike that will need a complete going through is a 1974 BMW r90/6.

This thread has yielded what I am sure is good advise, but once again I am having trouble sorting out which way to go. I have little doubt the ratcheting crimpers are better. I also expect that the Channel lock 909 crimpers that I just bought are a big upgrade from my past experience. Lets say I want to use them at least a few times and see if I think they are "good enough" before upgrading again.

Feedback from Channel lock 909 users as to what they do?

 

[sberry]

I use a simple Channelok or Klein crimper. Have a separate tool from the stripper for it. I am sure if one is doing aviation or nuclear work there s something better but I don't have issues with this common task.

 

[jessesandy]

Just a hint on technique.
The easiest way to get the correct length of conductor exposed is to strip a little extra insulation and then trim the bare conductor to length.

Save yourself the aggravation of trying to strip the exact length the first time. Then, having to redo it. Or, trying to crimp on a wire to short or to long.

You want the bare wires crimped in the contact zone.
You want insulation crimped in the stain relief zone.

 

[rlitman]

That there is a pretty crimp. Yes, some types of connections lend themselves well to trimming after crimping if you cannot get the length just right, but many don't work well that way either.

 

[tym]

For automotive wiring, my preference is to do a Western Union splice, flood with solder, then heat shrink tubing.

 

[jessesandy]

That there is a pretty crimp. Yes, some types of connections lend themselves well to trimming after crimping if you cannot get the length just right, but many don't work well that way either.

Credit to google images for the example.

And, the only trimming I've done after crimping is to hack a ring terminal into a spade terminal.

I like to trim bare conductors to length after stripping.
(And you don't want any pictures of that !)

 

[theoldwizard1]

The correct way with a butted seam is to orient the protruding side of the die opposite the seam. You don't want to split the seam.

I have heard that, but all the electronics techs where i used to work did it the opposite way.

 

[rlitman]

The correct way with a butted seam is to orient the protruding side of the die opposite the seam. You don't want to split the seam.

Indenter goes opposite the seam if the seam is open. Indenter goes on top of the seam, if the seam is brazed.

IMSNHO, crimp terminals with open seams are ****.
The good stuff either has a brazed seam, or is of two piece construction with a tube that wraps around the seam so there is no way it can open up.

 

[cthulu]

I love these, take a little more time but undoing connections is super handy. You can make your own harnesses for things that you may have to remove more often than you'd like to.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005AZWPUI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[kiatech]

http://phillipsind.com/main/wire-terminals/sta-dry-crimp-solder-seal-heat-shrink-terminals.html

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[My Old Tools]

I like to use uninsulated crimp connectors with adhesive lined shrink tub. I have never really found a good assortment kit of the uninsulated variety but generally go through more **** connectors anything so just buy them from NAPA.

Here is a thread from a while back on crimp vs soldier as that is bound to come up again:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123007

I use open barrel uninsulated connectors with adhesive shrink. I buy them from DigiKey. Use good ratcheting crimpers with the correct dies.

 

[ez-duzit]

For any vehicle/vibration application, crimp, don't solder. Stick with name brand components. Marine electrical suppliers usually carry the good stuff. Use tinned wire and ratcheting crimpers.

 

[FigureItOut]

I've been buying higher dollar crimpers as I find deals on them, but here's my results with the $60 Astro set with AMP open barrels. I'm happy with the crimps I get on 12AWG, but you can see what I'm getting with 18AWG. It may well be operator error.

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[rhandwor]

I like the posi post for auto use. Purchase the ones with silicone if using for items like truck lights.

 

[losvre]

http://phillipsind.com/main/wire-terminals/sta-dry-crimp-solder-seal-heat-shrink-terminals.html

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Was not aware about these but that what I would do if I wanted the best. First crimp and then solder and finally add that adhesive shrinking sleeves.

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[Outlander]

Did we cover, recently, a selection of ratcheting crimpers for weekend warrior (me) through professional (many of you)? I'm using my Channelock 909 crimpers which are a vast improvement over those horrible cheap crimpers that come in offbrand sets.