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Electrical layout idea

crooklyn

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Apr 26, 2011
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96
Location
Prince George, BC
Looking for advice on my wiring plan.

I will add some detail tomorrow when i'm not on nightshift. eyes going crossed-eyed.

electrical-bp_zpsy0kztusu.jpg
 
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astroracer

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Jun 22, 2005
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Mid_Michigan
One suggestion I will make is to put your ceiling fixtures on two or three separate switches. That way, if you go out to the shop just to get something or check on a project you don't have to turn on all of the lights. You will know your work spaces better then we will so wire the lights accordingly. Putting each bank on a seperate switch would be a start.
Don't worry about switches on the 220 outlets. No real reason for them in those applications.
Put outlets on your side walls at 6' intervals. Makes point of work areas easier to access power.
Put a welder outlet close to the overhead door. I do a lot of welding outside when I can and this will make that easier.
Mark
 
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crooklyn

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Prince George, BC
Thank you Mark for such great advise!
I will definatley put ceiling fixtures on different switches. And I wont do switches for the 220 applications, But can I run an extra 220 plugin from the same breaker for a welder near the garage door?
 

Chevy-SS

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Rhode Island
LOL, I just built 1,000 sf garage and my biggest switch gripe is that I have too many switches. I like the idea of having all the ceiling lights on one switch. Heck, I might have ALL the primary lights on one switch, assuming not too much draw for one circuit.

But hey, we're all different. Get a bunch of ideas and then do whatever suits your wants and needs.

One thing I would definitely do is another 3-way for the ceiling lights, placed by the existing 3-way at the workbench. In other words, at each station you should be able to control all the primary lighting. So if you had 4 lighting circuits, you would end up with 4 3-ways at each station. This way you have complete control of lighting at whatever end of shop you are at.


Good luck!
 
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HotRod68Camaro

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Central TX
I'm a big fan of having all the lights on one switch. I don't like dark spots in one room. That's just personal preference.
 

sands35

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St. Joseph, MI
Is this a car work shop or a project/tool work shop?

If it is for cars, then put the main shop lights around the perimeter of the parked car. No sense putting light on the roof of the car.

I'd suggest a few more 220 outlets around the outside wall. Even one near the garage door. So you can plug in a portable welder by door if you need to.

More 110 outlets won't hurt either.

Easy and cheep to do now. Royal PITA to do later.
 

chops101

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S. FL
Definitely more 120 outlets, and a couple 120 outlets tied to 1 switch (stereo, light, chargers, etc)
 

theoldwizard1

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SE MI
Is SS a "safety switch" ? It appears that the compressor and the welder will both be on 240V receptacles and connect via a pig tail and plug. It so, a safety switch is not required. If they are "hard wired", you will probably need 2 switches. The don't have to be "safety switches", but they do have to be "motor rated" (Leviton MS320, MS402 N1303 or similar).

Some one more experienced than I will have to comment, but I don't think you can run 2 - 240V receptacles off of the same circuit.

You could run a 4 or 8 space sub-panel (< $20 +breakers) off of the buildings main panel over to the opposite corner where the compressor and welder are. That would also give you a disconnect close to the equipment.
 
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volleyball

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NY, not NYC
I would not do a panel less than 12 circuits, prefer 20. Easier to add things as you need them.
Maybe some high wall or ceiling outlets so you can plug cord reels into them.
I would put exterior outlets on switches if you have nearby neighbors
 

Kmt803

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White Plains Ny
If I was doing my garage again,I would have my lights on a sensor ,probably mounted on ceiling I've left lights on so many times and didn't realize until the next day.
 

Kmt803

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White Plains Ny
Is SS a "safety switch" ? It appears that the compressor and the welder will both be on 240V receptacles and connect via a pig tail and plug. It so, a safety switch is not required. If they are "hard wired", you will probably need 2 switches. The don't have to be "safety switches", but they do have to be "motor rated" (Leviton MS320, MS402 N1303 or similar).

Some one more experienced than I will have to comment, but I don't think you can run 2 - 240V receptacles off of the same circuit.

You could run a 4 or 8 space sub-panel (< $20 +breakers) off of the buildings main panel over to the opposite corner where the compressor and welder are. That would also give you a disconnect close to the equipment.

It looks like 2 single pole switches for lighting
 
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hotro19881

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Apr 13, 2015
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You might consider keeping your plugs more than 48" above the floor, so that they are not blocked by sheet goods leaning against the wall. Don't forget to install GFCI protection for your 110 Volt outlets; and if disconnect s are required for your lights plain 110 Volt receptacles should suffice. Talk to your building inspector to determine the electrical requirements.
 
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crooklyn

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Prince George, BC
Here is my new layout idea based on advice from you guys and others, but I still have questions :D

20amp Breaker = 13 x 120V Outlets (4 on each of the 3 walls) and 1 right of garage door
20amp Breaker = Power for Gas Unit Heater Fan, 2 x 120V pluggins on the ceiling
20amp Breaker = 8 x T8 4 Bulb lights
20amp Breaker = 2 x 120V outside outlets, 2 outside corner lights, 1 motion detection light
30amp Breaker = 240V for welder that supplies both front and back of garage for the welder

Switches by Man Door.
- 1 switch for all inside lights lights
- 1 switch for outside corner lights
- 1 switch for motion detection light
- 1 switch to control which 240V for welder is active

What do you guys think?

Garage%20Electrical%20Layout_zpsjrar7cze.jpg
 

jeopardy98

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May 11, 2015
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587
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Prince George, VA
Definitely following this because I'm trying to figure out the same thing as you are right now with a little bigger space and not being quite as far along in planning as you. Thanks for sharing.
 

volleyball

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NY, not NYC
Looks good. why would you want to switch welder power? Wouldn't that be determined by what outlet it is plugged into?
 

Charles (in GA)

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50 mi south of Atlanta
Just run a second circuit and breaker for the welder. You cannot double tap the breaker and otherwise you would have to use Polaris connectors or huge wirenuts to split the one circuit into two. Given the location of the panel and the desired receptacles for the welder, and the cheap price of a double pole breaker (less than $10) the easiest is to do a completely separate circuit.
 
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crooklyn

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Apr 26, 2011
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Location
Prince George, BC
Just run a second circuit and breaker for the welder. You cannot double tap the breaker and otherwise you would have to use Polaris connectors or huge wirenuts to split the one circuit into two. Given the location of the panel and the desired receptacles for the welder, and the cheap price of a double pole breaker (less than $10) the easiest is to do a completely separate circuit.

I'm going to be running another 240v with a 30amp breaker for a compressor but the 240V w/ 30amp breaker for the welder I want to split off from a switch which will either energiez the North outlet or the South outlet.

Put I do get your idea of just running another circut with a 30amp breaker for itself.

Thanks for the idea
 
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crooklyn

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Joined
Apr 26, 2011
Messages
96
Location
Prince George, BC
Ok so after some more input and great advice here is my new layout with a wattage breakdown.
I needed to create a wattage breakdown for my home owners permit.

I'm going to be running a 60Amp breaker from my house to the panel in the garage. The panel in the garage came with a 100Amp breaker.
Circuits_zpsipbie2fv.png
 
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