Electrical outlet and lighting plan - feedback wanted

[gtae07]

I'm starting to plan for my electrical while stuck inside sick... thoughts and advice appreciated.

It's looking like I'm going to get new 200A service, so that's not an issue. Lighting is planned as 9x twin 4' T8 fixtures with 6500k daylight bulbs, in banks of 3. Outdoor lighting around all doors, possibly with motion sensors.

240V outlets are square with amperage ratings; 120V outlets are circles with circuit identifier. The big 240V outlet between the doors is for a welder; the two in the back right corner are for lathe/mill (eventually), and the lower right is for a compressor. Two ceiling outlets in the middle are for pulldown cords or other use. Breaker panel and meter in lower left corner of the drawing. House is towards the bottom of the page. I may include one more 30A 240 circuit outside in a box for a future mini split.

 

[jonjon1]

looks good to me, do you have power door openers, any low voltage getting run for thermostats, alarms, video, etc? Maybe a high plug for a hanging tv?

 

[gtae07]

looks good to me, do you have power door openers, any low voltage getting run for thermostats, alarms, video, etc? Maybe a high plug for a hanging tv?

No openers planned, though the ceiling outlets will be positioned for them should a future resident desire. I'm going to run ethernet back there but no plans for TV. I guess I should mark for ethernet outlet and some wires for security cams, though--good point.

 

[jonjon1]

No openers planned, though the ceiling outlets will be positioned for them should a future resident desire. I'm going to run ethernet back there but no plans for TV. I guess I should mark for ethernet outlet and some wires for security cams, though--good point.

I would run a plug to the side of each door too if you "may" run openres so a side shaft unit can be used, they are very popular now, and maybe run the low voltage you would need for the openers, maybe just some 18-5 from the door to the area where the opener would be.

The only thing I wish I did that I didnt was run a tv cable in the walls of my garage, I ran the speaker wire, but I so wish I ran a high plug and cable wire to the corner....

Well one more thing I wish I ran was compressor lines in the walls, I think that looks so professional to just have the 3/8" ****** and coupler/valve sticking out of the sheet rock...

also are you doing a central vac canister? Would also be a good time to run that...
you can get them for 90-200$
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Wall-Mo...741?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa6ebe19d

 

[gtae07]

I would run a plug to the side of each door too if you "may" run openres so a side shaft unit can be used, they are very popular now, and maybe run the low voltage you would need for the openers, maybe just some 18-5 from the door to the area where the opener would be.

120V circuit 4 would cover that, but good point on the low-voltage wire. I can run it and tuck it behind a cover.

The only thing I wish I did that I didnt was run a tv cable in the walls of my garage, I ran the speaker wire, but I so wish I ran a high plug and cable wire to the corner....

We haven't had regular TV service since 2009
But I could rig a high-mounted power outlet I guess, and use a computer to stream football games while I work...

Well one more thing I wish I ran was compressor lines in the walls, I think that looks so professional to just have the 3/8" ****** and coupler/valve sticking out of the sheet rock...

Not sure I want that in the walls; I was thinking black iron mounted up next to the ceiling with drops. Easier to modify that way.

also are you doing a central vac canister? Would also be a good time to run that...
you can get them for 90-200$
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Wall-Mo...741?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa6ebe19d

Already have a little shop vac but one of those would be interesting--I've never seen those before! Controlling aluminum chips and dropped rivets is a constant job; this would help. I will consider it.

 

[jonjon1]

I like the idea of hidden air lines since I seen it done, at the minimum having it ran to the reels would be nice, mine is bright blue and sticks out like a saw thumb...

I am getting ready to get rid of TV service, we use amazon and netflix more than anything else, the prices for monthly tv around here are silly, I think we pay around $250 a month...


You will never regret the central vac, I have 2 hoses a 50ft orange and a 25ft, and them central vac cans are STRONG, quiet, and no little tag along getting pulled around to scratch or tip something over, but the best thing is not having to pull it out and plug it in. My father has the central vac pvc ran to his work bench and a low voltage switch there so he can turn it on and vac his bench up with a little 4ft hose he has over there...

 

[cybrdyke]

A couple of thoughts..
Pick a receptacle that you think would be most convenient, and make it one of those new USB receptacles so that you can charge your phone/tablet/other stuff without worrying about having a transformer plug.

Think about having a highmount receptacle for a wall mount TV. You can stream netflix or amazon onto it with a Chromecast device for about $35 bucks.

Maybe a couple of receptacles in the ceiling? One for each garage door opener and one for other things, like a hanging cord reel or trouble lights.

Phone jack? Cable TV or Radio Antenna jack? Speaker wire jacks?

Any landscape lights outside? Now would be the time to plan a spot for a controller for that.

Ceiling Fan? Heater?

Good luck.
CD

 

[gtae07]

A couple of thoughts..
Pick a receptacle that you think would be most convenient, and make it one of those new USB receptacles so that you can charge your phone/tablet/other stuff without worrying about having a transformer plug.

In the plans. Looking at doing that in the bedroom, too, actually.

Think about having a highmount receptacle for a wall mount TV. You can stream netflix or amazon onto it with a Chromecast device for about $35 bucks.

Considering that.

Maybe a couple of receptacles in the ceiling? One for each garage door opener and one for other things, like a hanging cord reel or trouble lights.

See circuit C1.

Phone jack? Cable TV or Radio Antenna jack? Speaker wire jacks?

No landline phone, no cable TV, don't listen to the radio. Speaker wire, maybe--I'll have to think about that one.

Any landscape lights outside? Now would be the time to plan a spot for a controller for that.

Hmm, would be a good idea--easier than trying to run off the house.

Ceiling Fan? Heater?

I'll use box fans if necessary; the ceiling is crowded enough as it is (see door tracks). For air conditioning I'll pre-wire for a mini split (A/C is more important here than heat).

 

[Platonic Solid]

Alternate Lighting Layout suggestion:

​

Fixture Recommendation:

Lithonia SB232 $32.97 on Amazon.

Wraps (lensed fixtures) are recommended for 8ft ceiling height.
At that price the ballast is probably a budget model that will die within a few years, but by then you'll have a choice of upgrading to a higher quality fluorescent ballast or installing ballast bypass LED retrofits.

 

[gtae07]

Alternate Lighting Layout suggestion:

​

That's a lot of lighting... you think it's really necessary?

Fixture Recommendation:

Lithonia SB232 $32.97 on Amazon.

Wraps (lensed fixtures) are recommended for 8ft ceiling height.
At that price the ballast is probably a budget model that will die within a few years, but by then you'll have a choice of upgrading to a higher quality fluorescent ballast or installing ballast bypass LED retrofits.

Interesting fixture. I guess the wrap is to help spread the light some more... though white walls and ceiling and light/white floor will help there too.

 

[Platonic Solid]

It's only a little more than necessary, but 9 fixtures is definitely not enough. You will have issues at the workbench. The 15 fixtures are positioned to provide good lighting at the workbench and any other machinery you may have against the walls. You can control the amount of light via the lamps that you chose and you will have consistent shadow free lighting regardless.

The wrap style is primarily a safety issue.

 

[Platonic Solid]

It's not all about lumen output. Light fixtures on low ceilings make longer shadows, thus placement becomes more critical.

The Sylvania OCTRON 800 XP XL ECOLOGIC3 Lamp spec sheet is a good example of the different lumen outputs available.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I assume this shop is behind your house? Why not save on the extra costs of a separate meter and run a feeder from your house to your subpanel?

Also, what size in HP will your compressor be? Over 3HP must be hardwired!

 

[gtae07]

I assume this shop is behind your house? Why not save on the extra costs of a separate meter and run a feeder from your house to your subpanel?

I looked at that. But, the main panel is 200A and already maxed out per the calculations in the code (****ing electric heat ). In reality I'd probably be just fine running everything I wanted to back there, but with my luck the inspector will challenge me on it and make me either upgrade the service to the house (which would cost more than running direct to the shop in the first place, on top of having already run to the house) or run a separate meter anyway.

Also, what size in HP will your compressor be? Over 3HP must be hardwired!

Not sure yet; all I have right now is a small-ish 120V one. I'll just run the wires to a box there and cap and stow them for now; can add an outlet or a switch box later once I eventually buy the compressor itself.

 

[DC73]

. . . or run a separate meter anyway.

If the existing house meter is conveniently located and the power company approves, you might could get by with just one meter by upgrading to a 320 Amp meter and meter base. Those meter bases have enough lugs for two separate circuits and even though your house and shop are both 200 Amp services, a 320 Amp meter should handle all but extreme use. Could save a 2nd meter charge each month if this is an option for you.

DC

 

[gtae07]

If the existing house meter is conveniently located and the power company approves, you might could get by with just one meter by upgrading to a 320 Amp meter and meter base. Those meter bases have enough lugs for two separate circuits and even though your house and shop are both 200 Amp services, a 320 Amp meter should handle all but extreme use. Could save a 2nd meter charge each month if this is an option for you.

DC

The power co. guy is looking into upgrading the one service, but he expects that doing so will probably require upgrading the line from the meter to the transformer ($$$). Then I'd still have to run another line back to the shop. I'll have to see what he comes back with though.

One small benefit of the separate meter, though, is that during summer it would let me count my shop use at the lower initial rate, instead of the higher rate that applies after a certain use point. That would offset some of the extra meter fee.

 

[PelicanPines]

I have my wireless security cameras plugged into the extra outlet on each garage door opener outlet.

I also have a dedicated outlet for my standup deep freezer. Due to code... garage outlets have to be GFI but a dedicated outlet for a fridge or freezer is exempt. Before this dedicated plug... I lost everything in the freezer once.

Also consider different heights for the outlets based on ... lower if it is going to be plugged in all the time vs higher for need to plug this tool in to use NOW.

Things to think about...

 

[gtae07]

I have my wireless security cameras plugged into the extra outlet on each garage door opener outlet.

I also have a dedicated outlet for my standup deep freezer. Due to code... garage outlets have to be GFI but a dedicated outlet for a fridge or freezer is exempt. Before this dedicated plug... I lost everything in the freezer once.

Also consider different heights for the outlets based on ... lower if it is going to be plugged in all the time vs higher for need to plug this tool in to use NOW.

Things to think about...

I read on here a suggestion to keep the bottom of an outlet at least 50" above the floor, so that you can lean a 4x8 sheet of material against the wall and not block it. That's probably what I'm going to do with all the outlets.