Electrical outlets that work fine but plugs are tight to remove

[LiketoFix]

I noticed a while back that there we're a few electrician's on this sight with a fair amount of experience. Let me pick you're brain. When a plug is put into a receptacle, and after a little while when done and the plus is being removed, man the plugs are tight to come out. I know replacing the outlets that work fine would be a solution, but, is there a remedy, or an easy solution to this? I'm curious to hear some professional opinions, and not some half baked ideas!
Thanks in advance!
LTF

 

[Jinks]

Those outlets are relatively new, or seldom used. They will loosen up eventually.

 

[rlitman]

Outlets that pull out too easily are dangerous. That means that the springs inside that hold onto the plug blades are getting weak, and that leads to heating and eventual failure. I even have a spring scale that measures this.

Commercial and "spec" grade outlets generally have stronger pull-out resistance and better blade clamping than builder basic outlets. Hospital grade specifically calls for tighter grip on the ground prong.

edit: the worst outlets I've ever seen always seem to be on hotel nightstands, with hardly any grip on the plug at all.

 

[whateg01]

You're better off with receptacles that grip tighter than ones that are loose.

 

[AA/FC]

I can send you some of my old worn outlets in exchange for your newer tighter outlets. As far as I'm concerned, the tighter the better. And yes, I'm still talking about electrical outlets. lolol.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Trust me, tighter is better than looser… in more ways than one (electrical).

 

[Norcal]

In healthcare faculties a annual tension test of receptacles in certain areas is required, with a minimum of 4oz of tension, which is not much, most failures were in the grounding contacts. What was interesting on Hubbell hospital grade receptacles & how receptacles of various price points held up, $20 models did well, $7 models did have rapid deterioration of the tension over a few years, $9-10 Leviton hospital grade also did well.

 

[alfredeneuman]

(Edited because Norcal already covered the subject of tension tests,)

 

[PCustoms]

Hospital outlets are required to be subject to annual pullout tests.

Did you read just the last line of his post?

In healthcare faculties a annual tension test of receptacles in certain areas is required, with a minimum of 4oz of tension, which is not much, most failures were in the grounding contacts. What was interesting on Hubbell hospital grade receptacles & how receptacles of various price points held up, $20 models did well, $7 models did have rapid deterioration of the tension over a few years, $9-10 Leviton hospital grade also did well.

 

[justsam]

Are these tamper resistant receptacles?

 

[Norcal]

Are these tamper resistant receptacles?

They were not, TR was only required in a couple of locations that apply, those TR receptacles are closer in design to the UK ones that require a ground prong to open the shutters.

 

[LiketoFix]

I can truly appreciate the honesty and the forthcoming responses as the outlets I'm referring to are mainly to are in the kitchen, 25 years old and get use every day. All are Whit rectangular grounded Leviton Decora outlets/receptacles. None are worn out or sloppy loose! I also agree that being tight is better! (STILL TALKING ELECTRICAL HERE) LOL!!!
I appreciate the humor in this as many other do also! LOL!
An idea, what about a little Die-Electric grease on a plug, and work the plug in and out, gently, a couple times, wouldn't that seem like a good idea? Just trying to eliminate the excess wear on the interior metal also.
Thanks,
LTF

 

[wyliesdiesels]

An idea, what about a little Die-Electric grease on a plug, and work the plug in and out, gently, a couple times, wouldn't that seem like a good idea? Just trying to eliminate the excess wear on the interior metal also.

hell no!

 

[Packard V8]

Yes, tighter is better. When installing a dedicated outlet for a 115-volt electric vehicle supply equipment (EVSE - the "charger" which is OEM), I sourced a Hubbell single outlet hospital grade instead of the homeowner-grade duplex outlet. IIRC, they are red.

jack vines

 

[Norcal]

Yes, tighter is better. When installing a dedicated outlet for a 115-volt electric vehicle supply equipment (EVSE - the "charger" which is OEM), I sourced a Hubbell single outlet hospital grade instead of the homeowner-grade duplex outlet. IIRC, they are red.

jack vineshospital

Red denotes a device on emergency circuits, a green dot denotes a hospital grade receptacle, orange is isolated ground.

 

[LiketoFix]

hell no!

So as I understand you're response, you don't like my suggestion, and instead of respond back with another stupid comment like yours, I simply am asking why, you say that? Give me some factual , work like educated first hand experience as I am so kindly asking for.
I worked in the construction trade for 50 years and can roll with the best of, em, or I used to be able too. My point is Why?
When Electricians install heavy gauge aluminum wire feeds to a service they use an anti corrosion, lube on the lugs and the exposed of the wire. I've had great results keeping corrosion down on different kinds of electrical connections of all varieties.
Educated thoughts and opinions are asked of people with professional experience, and not back yard hacks!

Yes, tighter is better. When installing a dedicated outlet for a 115-volt electric vehicle supply equipment (EVSE - the "charger" which is OEM), I sourced a Hubbell single outlet hospital grade instead of the homeowner-grade duplex outlet. IIRC, they are red.

jack vines

I can agree with that, and I understand what you're saying, having tight electrical connections! These plugs I'm talking about are counter height, and tight when removing a toaster, coffee pot, etc....................

Thanks,
LTF

 

[rlitman]

...These plugs I'm talking about are counter height, and tight when removing a toaster, coffee pot, etc...

Heating loads. Just smaller versions of your EVSE type load, so you really want these to be tight for the same reasons.

I don't actually see an issue with using dielectric grease on a plug. I do that all the time to outdoor extension cords, but in a kitchen, it might get messy. Grease itself shouldn't hurt the connection. The only issue here is that the outlet instructions will neither call for grease, nor specify what exact grease to use, so it's questionable from a UL listing perspective. For example, many push-on circuit breakers get greased where they friction clamp on the bus in a very similar manner to a plug. Some come greased from the factory with instructions to not remove the grease, and some even sell replacement specific grease. The same goes for your meter, where it plugs into the pan.

 

[PFSard]

Die-Electric grease on a plug .........
Thanks,
LTF

I know next to nothing about this. Here's a link to an article that may shed some light on Dielectric grease.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/what-is-dielectric-grease/

 

[wyliesdiesels]

When Electricians install heavy gauge aluminum wire feeds to a service they use an anti corrosion, lube on the lugs and the exposed of the wire. I've had great results keeping corrosion down on different kinds of electrical connections of all varieties.
Educated thoughts and opinions are asked of people with professional experience, and not back yard hacks!

first off, no-alox is not required by code unless the manufacturer calls for it and most wire manufacturers do not these days

second off, your comparison is totally apples to oranges. not sure how you can even compare using anti-corrosion grease on aluminum wire strands to prevent a high resistant connection to using it on brass contacts inside a receptacle to make it easier to remove a plug. the 2 scenarios just dont compare at all

now as to why, the grease isnt listed for that use, and will not have the outcome you desire..... in the above examples, breakers arent constantly removed and inserted into the bus stabs nor are meters....

 

[dave*99]

Dielectric grease on a wall receptacle is likely to trap dust and debris.

I’m struggling with the original problem. As I read it these are Leviton Decora. I have used them for years and years. None have been particularly difficult on plug extraction.

I have some commercial receptacles too. Those are much tougher but not problematic.

Is there anything odd about the plugs on the appliances? Have you noticed any heating of the plugs? Discoloration?

 

[Meursault74]

I noticed a while back that there we're a few electrician's on this sight with a fair amount of experience. Let me pick you're brain. When a plug is put into a receptacle, and after a little while when done and the plus is being removed, man the plugs are tight to come out. I know replacing the outlets that work fine would be a solution, but, is there a remedy, or an easy solution to this? I'm curious to hear some professional opinions, and not some half baked ideas!
Thanks in advance!
LTF

May I suggest some spinach?



I'm joking about the spinach. But maybe you have a health issue like arthritis that makes removing them difficult for you. My elderly mother has mentioned difficulty with some plugs/outlets. I had no issue with them, but could see how she does.

 

[LiketoFix]

Dielectric grease on a wall receptacle is likely to trap dust and debris.

I’m struggling with the original problem. As I read it these are Leviton Decora. I have used them for years and years. None have been particularly difficult on plug extraction.

I have some commercial receptacles too. Those are much tougher but not problematic.

Is there anything odd about the plugs on the appliances? Have you noticed any heating of the plugs? Discoloration?

Not really, anything odd, as I can appreciate you're insight, and opinion.

LTF

 

[LiketoFix]

first off, no-alox is not required by code unless the manufacturer calls for it and most wire manufacturers do not these days

second off, your comparison is totally apples to oranges. not sure how you can even compare using anti-corrosion grease on aluminum wire strands to prevent a high resistant connection to using it on brass contacts inside a receptacle to make it easier to remove a plug. the 2 scenarios just dont compare at all

now as to why, the grease isnt listed for that use, and will not have the outcome you desire..... in the above examples, breakers arent constantly removed and inserted into the bus stabs nor are meters....

Good point, and you're probably correct with the comparison.
LTF

 

[LiketoFix]

I know next to nothing about this. Here's a link to an article that may shed some light on Dielectric grease.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/what-is-dielectric-grease/

I have seen that before and I completely understand it, and in a shop of old timers, on Heavy Equipment, we did our own studies, and testing years ago, mainly on D.C. Electrical stuff, so once again apples to oranges!!! I can appreciate it, as it's very informative, and any time you can keep corrosion down, especially dealing with electrical connections, is a good thing!
LTF

 

[dave*99]

Not really, anything odd, as I can appreciate you're insight, and opinion.

LTF

Help me understand this statement:

"When a plug is put into a receptacle, and after a little while when done and the plus is being removed, man the plugs are tight to come out."

Does this mean if you stick the plug in and remove it a few seconds later it comes out much easier?

Hard removal is only after leaving the plug in for some time? What I'm getting at is learning if there is something like electrical heating from a loose wire causing the plug prongs to "stick" to the receptacle contacts? Do they come out with a mechanical POP or just a smooth but heavy effort?

 

[LiketoFix]

Heating loads. Just smaller versions of your EVSE type load, so you really want these to be tight for the same reasons.

I don't actually see an issue with using dielectric grease on a plug. I do that all the time to outdoor extension cords, but in a kitchen, it might get messy. Grease itself shouldn't hurt the connection. The only issue here is that the outlet instructions will neither call for grease, nor specify what exact grease to use, so it's questionable from a UL listing perspective. For example, many push-on circuit breakers get greased where they friction clamp on the bus in a very similar manner to a plug. Some come greased from the factory with instructions to not remove the grease, and some even sell replacement specific grease. The same goes for your meter, where it plugs into the pan.

I can truly relate and appreciate all the responses and am grateful. A lot of common sense approaches and responses that I will heed, and take advice from, as sometimes doing nothing is the best approach and probably applies here!
Thanks All!
LTF

 

[LiketoFix]

Help me understand this statement:

"When a plug is put into a receptacle, and after a little while when done and the plus is being removed, man the plugs are tight to come out."

Does this mean if you stick the plug in and remove it a few seconds later it comes out much easier?

Hard removal is only after leaving the plug in for some time? What I'm getting at is learning if there is something like electrical heating from a loose wire causing the plug prongs to "stick" to the receptacle contacts? Do they come out with a mechanical POP or just a smooth but heavy effort?

Like you're last comment, "smooth but heavy effort"!
LTF

 

[whateg01]

Like you're last comment, "smooth but heavy effort"!
LTF

You missed his point. Is it easier to unplug if done right away than if you leave it plugged in for awhile. Hence the bold text

 

[LiketoFix]

You missed his point. Is it easier to unplug if done right away than if you leave it plugged in for awhile. Hence the bold text

I really didn't miss his point, I just took it for granted!!!
LTF

 

[bluedog225]

Not an electrician.

Turn off the juice. Insert and remove the plug 50 to 100 times. My understanding is that our North American plugs and receptacles are designed in such a way that insertion and removal cleans oxidation from the surface.

Whether that was intentional or not, I don’t know. But if you have an old plug and an older receptacle, repeated insertion and removal will either remove oxidation or otherwise polish both surfaces in a way that may get you where you want to be.

I like the dielectric grease idea, but it will attract junk over the years.

 

[sparky 1971]

I really didn't miss his point, I just took it for granted!!!
LTF

But you didn't answer the question.

Is it easier to unplug the cord right after insertion vs. waiting awhile? It could make a difference though not anything I'd be worried about since at about 270 pounds, I can pull pretty hard.

 

[alfredeneuman]

When Electricians install heavy gauge aluminum wire feeds to a service they use an anti corrosion, lube on the lugs and the exposed of the wire. .
Educated thoughts and opinions are asked of people with professional experience, and not back yard hacks!

The utility companies install and terminate all underground services and they never use anything on the wire.

 

[rlitman]

The utility companies install and terminate all underground services and they never use anything on the wire.

Probably because they don't mind spec-ing and spending extra money on connectors that come pre-greased, both to save time, and to avoid mistakes.

 

[sparky 1971]

The utility companies install and terminate all underground services and they never use anything on the wire.

Mid American Energy does. If fact, they won't connect if we don't use Noalox on the load side. They refer to it as "inhibitor". Of course, I had to ask WTF inhibitor was the time one their inspectors failed me when I had used the semi clear Ilsco brand and he couldn't see it as well as the black goop.

 

[PCustoms]

Probably because they don't mind spec-ing and spending extra money on connectors that come pre-greased, both to save time, and to avoid mistakes.

Or, as already stated, because neither the wire or terminal manufacturer requires anti-oxidization compound (grease)

 

[eejack]

Is it all the things you plug in, or is it a particular appliance or two?

There is a possibility, if this is a recent occurrence and the receptacles are 25 years old, especially in a damp environment like a kitchen, that the receptacles themselves have corroded or worn in some way.

You could try any troublesome appliance elsewhere to see if it is still an issue.

Look at the prongs of what you are plugging in and see if there is a wear pattern or discoloration of any sort that might help discover the issue.

 

[Norcal]

Yes, tighter is better. When installing a dedicated outlet for a 115-volt electric vehicle supply equipment (EVSE - the "charger" which is OEM), I sourced a Hubbell single outlet hospital grade instead of the homeowner-grade duplex outlet. IIRC, they are red.

jack vines

They are available in different colors, but red means it's a emergency circuit, just look around any hospital, only the green dot means hospital grade.

 

[LiketoFix]

Is it all the things you plug in, or is it a particular appliance or two?

There is a possibility, if this is a recent occurrence and the receptacles are 25 years old, especially in a damp environment like a kitchen, that the receptacles themselves have corroded or worn in some way.

You could try any troublesome appliance elsewhere to see if it is still an issue.

Look at the prongs of what you are plugging in and see if there is a wear pattern or discoloration of any sort that might help discover the issue.

This is one of the smartest and most informative replies yet! IMO!
I would think that these outlets that see use daily, or almost, would almost kinda clean themselves, if you will, from use as the plug gets pushed in and removed daily, creating a cleaning like effect, if you will.
I will check them out and report back, in the near future.
Thanks,
LTF

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Probably because they don't mind spec-ing and spending extra money on connectors that come pre-greased, both to save time, and to avoid mistakes.

Not when it comes to meter pans.