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Electrical Power And Automatic Ice Makers ??

billt460

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I know that according to insurance statistics automatic ice maker failures account for a LOT of water damage in homes. I personally know 2 people who had major damage because of ice maker leaks and malfunctions. It got me thinking to what would happen if while the icemaker was filling with water, and the power went out?

Would it keep filling, or are there safeguards that would stop the filling the instant there is a power failure? I would think so, but in today's world of everything built as cheaply as possible, who knows?
 
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dcg9381

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Isn't this the same as having an ice maker in your fridge? Same risks...
Recently I've seen "ice maker" lines that have some sort of leak detection (mechanical)
 

infinkc

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Yea they sell Icemaker lines now that if they flow too much as like in a leak they will shut themselves off. But first time I’ve heard of this.
 

larry4406

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Most of today’s fridge/freezers have ice dispensers in the door. When the power goes out the ice melts and pukes on the floor causing damage. Not water sealed.

So, when you go on vacation you shut the ice maker off (if not the whole water to the house) and dump the ice.
 

infinkc

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nadogail

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If you are worried you can not only close the valve to the Ice Maker, you can also empty the ice storage so there will be no ice to melt in the event of a loss of power to your refrigerator.
 

mike93lx

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If you are worried you can not only close the valve to the Ice Maker, you can also empty the ice storage so there will be no ice to melt in the event of a loss of power to your refrigerator.
Shutting it off isn't always simple. Mine would require pulling the fridge out.

At some point, I do want to relocate it, but my setup is definitely not unique
 

rlitman

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Most of today’s fridge/freezers have ice dispensers in the door. When the power goes out the ice melts and pukes on the floor causing damage. Not water sealed.

So, when you go on vacation you shut the ice maker off (if not the whole water to the house) and dump the ice.
If a few melting cubes causes damage in your kitchen you've got bigger problems. Real ice-maker floods come from hose failures with unlimited water sources. Translucent polyethylene "ice-maker" tubing should be banned or at least red-flagged by insurance companies. That stuff is well known to burst. PEX ice-maker tubing is inexpensive, and doesn't have this issue.
 

nadogail

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Shutting it off isn't always simple. Mine would require pulling the fridge out.

At some point, I do want to relocate it, but my setup is definitely not unique
My Ice maker is fed though an Angle Stop under the kitchen sink.

Do you routinely pull your refrigerator out and clean the area around the heat exchanger tubes and drip drain evaporator?
 
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billt460

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If you are worried you can not only close the valve to the Ice Maker, you can also empty the ice storage so there will be no ice to melt in the event of a loss of power to your refrigerator.
The whole point is to prevent large leaks, AND be able to still use your ice maker as intended. I could shut off the main coming into my home, and that would prevent any leaks anywhere. But it would make living in the home all but impossible.
 

mike93lx

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My Ice maker is fed though an Angle Stop under the kitchen sink.

Do you routinely pull your refrigerator out and clean the area around the heat exchanger tubes and drip drain evaporator?
My fridge is across the kitchen from the sink.

I'd pull the fridge out maybe every couple years
 
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billt460

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I pull mine out to blow off the coils at least once a year. It's a messy job, but if you want your fridge to live, it's a must. I try to vacuum as much as possible, but you can't get enough of it that way. But 90 PSI from a compressed air nozzle will remove every speck of dust from under it.

I have a dining room slider adjacent to my kitchen. I set up several fans blowing out, and it directs most of the dust outside. But it's still messy, regardless of how you do it.
 

larry4406

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If a few melting cubes causes damage in your kitchen you've got bigger problems. Real ice-maker floods come from hose failures with unlimited water sources. Translucent polyethylene "ice-maker" tubing should be banned or at least red-flagged by insurance companies. That stuff is well known to burst. PEX ice-maker tubing is inexpensive, and doesn't have this issue.
Nope.

Traditional hardwood floor in the kitchen was damaged by the melted contents from the ice maker bin that leaked out the door discharge after a prolonged power outage. House was not lived in or monitored daily. Subsequently we shut off ice makers in all houses that are not in daily production.

Agree that a hose failure would cause substantially more damage but the damage we incurred required floor repair.
 
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mike93lx

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If a few melting cubes causes damage in your kitchen you've got bigger problems. Real ice-maker floods come from hose failures with unlimited water sources. Translucent polyethylene "ice-maker" tubing should be banned or at least red-flagged by insurance companies. That stuff is well known to burst. PEX ice-maker tubing is inexpensive, and doesn't have this issue.
Not every kitchen is tiled. Mine is hardwood, like larry's
 
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rlitman

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Not every kitchen is tiled. Mine is hardwood, like larry's
I understand that. I just feel it's not a good idea. I've known people with carpeted kitchens and bathrooms too.
I'm not a fan of tile either. My kitchen floor is linoleum, but I'd prefer LVP one day.

Remember that the ice maker isn't the only solenoid valve in the kitchen. The dishwasher's got one too. Don't forget about your washing machine hoses. A Co-worker's house flooded when a cheap toilet hookup hose failed. The plastic body of a solenoid valve on my washing machine cracked and started leaking. Luckily it wasn't a total failure.

Our structures are loaded with such time-bombs. That's what insurance is for. My big claim was when a cast iron sewage line inside a wall failed and flooded my basement.

For the record, I have central station monitored flood sensors in each floor, and cheap floor sensors under the aforementioned appliances as well as under sinks.
 

mike93lx

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I understand that. I just feel it's not a good idea. I've known people with carpeted kitchens and bathrooms too.
I'm not a fan of tile either. My kitchen floor is linoleum, but I'd prefer LVP one day.

Remember that the ice maker isn't the only solenoid valve in the kitchen. The dishwasher's got one too. Don't forget about your washing machine hoses. A Co-worker's house flooded when a cheap toilet hookup hose failed. The plastic body of a solenoid valve on my washing machine cracked and started leaking. Luckily it wasn't a total failure.

Our structures are loaded with such time-bombs. That's what insurance is for. My big claim was when a cast iron sewage line inside a wall failed and flooded my basement.

For the record, I have central station monitored flood sensors in each floor, and cheap floor sensors under the aforementioned appliances as well as under sinks.
I wouldnt do hardwood if I was renovating or building, but I'm not ripping it all out over the risk of a leak.

If I was doing a fresh build, I'd have drain pans under the sink, dishwasher and laundry rooms with waterproofed floors all all those areas
 

Innovate1

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I wouldnt do hardwood if I was renovating or building, but I'm not ripping it all out over the risk of a leak.

If I was doing a fresh build, I'd have drain pans under the sink, dishwasher and laundry rooms with waterproofed floors all all those areas
Drain pans sound like a smart idea but usually those spaces get crammed with stuff and the pans would limit the space. We had a disposal rust out and leak and didn't notice it right away as it was a small leak. Got by with minimal damage to the bottom of the cabinet. Anyone make a compact drain pan/bucket for those? It's been a while so we are probably due for another disposal leak.
 

Innovate1

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Actually it's the poor quality saddle valves people use. never use a saddle valve. properly plumb and you won't have problems.
A lot of places they are banned by code but that doesn't stop people from using them. I don't see the automatic hose as good protection - many leaks are small ones and would be less flow than normal use so wouldn't trigger shutoff.
 

mike93lx

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Drain pans sound like a smart idea but usually those spaces get crammed with stuff and the pans would limit the space. We had a disposal rust out and leak and didn't notice it right away as it was a small leak. Got by with minimal damage to the bottom of the cabinet. Anyone make a compact drain pan/bucket for those? It's been a while so we are probably due for another disposal leak.
Somewhat besides the point but disposals are completely unnecessary and do more harm than good, especially on septic systems. I have removed them in my last two houses and don't ever expect to have one again
 
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billt460

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Always remember your plumbing is only as strong as its weakest link. Generally plastic tubing for ice makers, and under sink R.O. water systems are 2 of the most vulnerable.

I have these water alarms everywhere in my house. Under all my sinks, by my fridge and washing machine, and also the water heater and softener. They're relatively inexpensive, and they can save major damage.

 

mike93lx

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Drain pans sound like a smart idea but usually those spaces get crammed with stuff and the pans would limit the space. We had a disposal rust out and leak and didn't notice it right away as it was a small leak. Got by with minimal damage to the bottom of the cabinet. Anyone make a compact drain pan/bucket for those? It's been a while so we are probably due for another disposal leak.
Why can't you put stuff in the pans? Reduced pan capacity doesn't matter if it has a drain
 
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Innovate1

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Why can't you out stuff in the pans? Reduced pan capacity doesn't matter if it has a drain
Out stuff in the pans??? Maybe speech to text without checking...

A pan under a garbage disposal is often going to be lower than the trap which would be the only place to drain the pan. You might be able to hook into the drain but the water level would be above the bottom of the motor in most cases. Just putting a pan in the bottom of the cabinet would be better than nothing and maybe a moisture alarm. Or a small bucket over the motor with an alarm.
 

mike93lx

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Out stuff in the pans??? Maybe speech to text without checking...

A pan under a garbage disposal is often going to be lower than the trap which would be the only place to drain the pan. You might be able to hook into the drain but the water level would be above the bottom of the motor in most cases. Just putting a pan in the bottom of the cabinet would be better than nothing and maybe a moisture alarm. Or a small bucket over the motor with an alarm.
Put stuff in the pans.

Drain pans can be plumbed in separate of the sink drain, just like the drain pan for a washing machine that is standard when installed in finished spaces
 

Innovate1

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Put stuff in the pans.

Drain pans can be plumbed in separate of the sink drain, just like the drain pan for a washing machine that is standard when installed in finished spaces
Pretty easy if it's new construction. Much harder if it is already built. I question if drain pans for washing machines are "standard" for finished spaces. I have seen a lot that don't have them and not sure I have ever seen one with a pan. Maybe in newer homes. I think it's a good idea just often not done.
 

mike93lx

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Pretty easy if it's new construction. Much harder if it is already built. I question if drain pans for washing machines are "standard" for finished spaces. I have seen a lot that don't have them and not sure I have ever seen one with a pan. Maybe in newer homes. I think it's a good idea just often not done.
I know, that's why I specifically said "if I was doing a fresh build"

My 2003 house has a pan and it's on the second floor. My last place had the washer in the basement, but no floor drain or pan.
 

Milton Shaw

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I ran into these on washers where they would shut off the water when the washer valve called for flow. Do not recommend as they trigger at normal flow rates for icemaker or washer. Basically when the valve opens it's the same flow they expect to see when the pipe ruptures.
 

pima67

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As mentioned, the solenoid only opens for flow when power is applied, BUT that little ****** can fail open. That happen to me a few years ago. I heard water pouring out of the freezer door because the thing failed open after it filled the ice maker. Now when I leave the house for any extended period of time, I shut off the main valve which is conveniently located next to the garage door. That covers every possible failure point in the house. Yes I am paranoid!
 

ToddG

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The solenoids for all modern refers are PLASTIC and located in the rear bottom of the fridge in the heat environment. There is another PLASTIC line that is external on the back of the fridge that goes up to the icemaker. These WILL fail eventually and that solenoid will continue to blast water all over the place. All refers with water/ice in the door will be a problem at some time...
 

dcg9381

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The solenoids for all modern refers are PLASTIC and located in the rear bottom of the fridge in the heat environment. There is another PLASTIC line that is external on the back of the fridge that goes up to the icemaker. These WILL fail eventually and that solenoid will continue to blast water all over the place. All refers with water/ice in the door will be a problem at some time...
I co-worker gave me a refrigerator recently - she said it leaked. Basically the OEM water lines were all brittle and cracked. Dunno the age of the thing, it's at least semi-modern double-door stainless... I simply threw it in the garage w/o water connection, replacing those lines looks like a pain in the ***.
 
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