Electrical question

[Todd.Brock]

I have a junction box in basement. There are 3 separate lines (14-2) in the junction box. I want to run put in a light at the junction. Can I run just one one piece of Romex and have the power come Into switch and poet out on the neutral if Mark it. This instead of one piece of 14-2 into the box and another back out.

 

[Todd.Brock]

Figured it. Feel free to delete.

 

[Speedy Petey]

That's good, because no one could understand that anyway.

 

[pattenp]

I completely understood what he was asking. I was just waiting to see who would answer.

 

[Zeke]

So, was he asking if he could run a switch leg out of the box and then switched power to the light? I think that's permissible when taping the neutral black.

Am I on track here pattemp?

 

[Speedy Petey]

Can I run just one one piece of Romex and have the power come Into switch and poet out on the neutral if Mark it.

I completely understood what he was asking. I was just waiting to see who would answer.

Seriously??

I must have my browser's gibberish filter turned off.

 

[pattenp]

I was joking. I'm clueless.

Seriously??

I must have my browser's gibberish filter turned off.

 

[Todd.Brock]

Zeke was right. iPhone typing doesn't always work as expected. Sorry for the confusion

 

[1tonstroke]

If you figured it out already good but for reference for anyone else if you are on the 2011 NEC code cycle you need to have a neutral/grounded conductor at every switchbox. 404.2(C). “Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. For switches control lighting loads supplied by a grounded general purpose branch circuit, the grounded circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be provided at the switch location.

The reason for doing this is that many dimmers and occupancy sensors require a neutral/grounded conductor and people have been wiring it to the ground/egc. There are a couple exemptions for this one is that it is exposed and could be switched to include a neutral and the other is that it is in conduit where one can be pulled at a later time.

 

[Todd.Brock]

I appreciate the help and taking a moment to type something useful. I ended up running it the way you suggested with one line to the switch and another line out to a new jbox for the light.

 

[Zeke]

1ton, no one said to run a 2 wire cable. A 2 conductor with ground should meet code as a switch leg, AFAIK.

 

[justsam]

If you figured it out already good but for reference for anyone else if you are on the 2011 NEC code cycle you need to have a neutral/grounded conductor at every switchbox. 404.2(C). “Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. For switches control lighting loads supplied by a grounded general purpose branch circuit, the grounded circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be provided at the switch location.

The reason for doing this is that many dimmers and occupancy sensors require a neutral/grounded conductor and people have been wiring it to the ground/egc. There are a couple exemptions for this one is that it is exposed and could be switched to include a neutral and the other is that it is in conduit where one can be pulled at a later time.

Very Interesting! I wonder how many jurisdictions will adopt this.

As a DIY Home Automation person, I say it is past due. Very frustrating to attempt to use a Smart Switch or some other switch box mounted device that requires a neutral and the box is only a switch leg!

Does this mean that in the case where only a simple Switch Leg is needed, and there is no Smart Switch, you must still run 3 conductor+Grd, in the event that neutral is ever needed? Just cap neutral with a wire nut?

 

[1tonstroke]

Very Interesting! I wonder how many jurisdictions will adopt this.

As a DIY Home Automation person, I say it is past due. Very frustrating to attempt to use a Smart Switch or some other switch box mounted device that requires a neutral and the box is only a switch leg!

Does this mean that in the case where only a simple Switch Leg is needed, and there is no Smart Switch, you must still run 3 conductor+Grd, in the event that neutral is ever needed? Just cap neutral with a wire nut?

You could run a 3 wire and just cap the neutral. However more commonly like the OP did you would run your feed into the switchbox and then go to the light from there, it just saves from having to have 12/3 around. This also causes a problem with dead end three ways where you now have to run a four wire to them. I agree with you its not a bad change and how I have wired switches long before the requirement.

 

[1tonstroke]

1ton, no one said to run a 2 wire cable. A 2 conductor with ground should meet code as a switch leg, AFAIK.

There could be some confusion with terminology but the code section I cited required a grounded conductor/neutral at the switch box. This mean you can no longer just run a switch leg down and tape the neutral black.

 

[ddawg16]

Seriously??

I must have my browser's gibberish filter turned off.

Would it not have been easier to just ignore?