Electrical Routing in Metal Garage

[muk]

I have a few electrical questions. I have tried searching but I was not able to find what I needed or I just did not use the correct keywords. I just had this build put up a few weeks ago as a flow over from my main larger garage and need to put outlets and lights in I was just unsure of how to deal with the wiring around the beams.

1. The black box represents the breaker box, should I leave a gap behind it and the exterior wall?
2. How do you transition around these beams? the arrows are pointing to examples I assume I shouldn't drill holes in them and compromise the strength of the structure.
3. Does the wiring have to be MC cable or can it be romex?

I am sure I may more questions later.

 

[nadogail]

I would suggest the box not be mounted to the wall f the shed; if I were to see the job think I would run Uni strut between the uprights and mount the box to the uni strut, or to a panel that is supported by the Uni strut.

I think that EMT Conduit and metal boxes, commonly reffered to as "Pipe and Box" with THHN conductors will be your better choice for all the wiring. You will that a copy of Jack Benfield's book on conduit bending will answer our questions about getting around the beams.

 

[FMB4]

Thanks for that nadogail.

 

[Walkers]

Ditto, I would run emt, although autocorrect was very insistent that you rum emus instead. More interesting for sure, but not very good for power tools.

 

[alfredeneuman]

3. Does the wiring have to be MC cable or can it be romex?

The rule against physical damage is exactly the same for MC and AC cables and all flexible conduits is for NM

 

[dcg9381]

Unistrut is great stuff. Like others, that looks like a job for EMT.
I haven't used EMT, I use PVC, using the "watertight" fittings and flex ends, little obstructions like that are no problem, but it's more expensive than just bending EMT.

Dunno how big that is, but sometimes it's easier (and used to be more cost effective before copper went nuts) to have a sub-panel on the other side of the building.

 

[Terry D]

I would do EMT and metal boxes. There is always going to be some bending, but you want to plan your runs with minimal bends. So if spacing the panel out a bit eliminates offsets around a beam, then do that. Main thing is to plan the runs before you start. Size the conduit correctly. I would use 4x4 square metal boxes with raised covers. Guess I should of asked this first, Are you insulating and covering the walls?

 

[muk]

Yes I will be insulating and covering the walls, most likely next year.

 

[Terry D]

Yes I will be insulating and covering the walls, most likely next year.

That changes everything on the way you wire it. Are framing the walls

 

[muk]

I will be adding 2x3's in between the steel framing to aid in securing the sheeting.

 

[Terry D]

I will be adding 2x3's in between the steel framing to aid in securing the sheeting.

I dont know how your budget is, but it would be best to frame the walls before wiring it. It would be a lot easier than wiring it now and framing later. Then it could be wired with Romex and plastic boxes, or MC cable and metal boxes. You could still install EMT on the ceiling for the lighting now to at least get some light in there.

 

[Knight511]

I wasn't going to chime in until you said you were going to frame it in. Here is what I did with a shop constructed like yours. I ran my main branches up to the ceiling from the break panel, dropped some runs straight into the "stud" bays where they needed to go, and then made some runs horizontally across the metal studs. The EMT in my shop is all 1" (beefy stuff that may be harder to bend for some). There will be PLENTY of space between your wall sheathing and the metal studs to run the EMT across the walls.

 

[dcg9381]

I dont know how your budget is, but it would be best to frame the walls before wiring it. It would be a lot easier than wiring it now and framing later. Then it could be wired with Romex and plastic boxes, or MC cable and metal boxes. You could still install EMT on the ceiling for the lighting now to at least get some light in there.

depends on how you frame it and how much insulation. With a traditional metal building, we framed 2x4 (flat) off the purlins. Tons of room for insulation (first) then electrical and plumbing after.

 

[muk]

The metal studs in the building are 2.5" that may give me an R10-R12 value. I would like to spray foam it but financially that is not in the cards, so I will probably wind up going with foam board so i don't have to worry about mold. I figured I can do I 2" foam board in the cavity

 

[mike93lx]

Putting the panel behind the door makes it easier to keep the area in front of it clear. you are going to give up some prime wall space to put it where indicated.

 

[sparky 1971]

I would do just enough to get by for now. When the walls are up and covered, surface mount EMT. Build a wall at the end to put the panel on and put a couple of receptacles under it. Mount a switch next to the panel and have it control another receptacle and get a couple of cheapo shop lights for it or just go ahead and install the permanent lights if you aren't going to put a ceiling in. When the rest of the walls are finished, run the rest of the conduit. It's going to be a real pita trying to put foam board around a cable run through the wall.

 

[mikedodge]

Framing it in.. Either do surface mounted conduit or armored cable in the walls.

 

[draggindakota]

I'm currently doing the exact same thing, except I have no plans of ever framing in the walls. I second the unistrut idea. My panel is mounted to two pieces of 14ga unistrut that are screwed to the building legs. I'll be mounting all my boxes to the legs as well and running emt throughout.