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Electrical terminal cleaning

L.Cheapo

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Oct 23, 2014
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I searched to no avail.

I am in need of a good electrical terminal cleaner for automotive connectors. Looking for high quality. Prefer made in USA. What do you folks use? Pros/cons?

Thanks!

Edited to add:

I'm trying to remove the green crusties from inside a female terminal as well as off the male terminal. They had protected connection, no idea how they got it!
 
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rlitman

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DeOxit Dn5. I have not found anything better. Note however that it will take some time to get the green crusties to go away. Give it a spray, reassemble, and take it apart for a final cleaning in a week or so.
 

bonneyman

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I'd get green sticky residue on electrical pull-out blocks all the time. Never knew what it was. I'm guessing it's a electro-chemical reaction between the conductors, caused by impurities in the copper, any anti-oxidation inhibitor, dirt, and years of use and environmental-induced heat.

The male connectors I could wipe clean but I couldn't get back in there to clean the female part. Best I could do was to spray an 99% IPA (isopropyl alcohol) aerosol in there and give it plenty of time to evaporate before re-energizing. Don't know if that will work for your application, though.
 
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L.Cheapo

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rlitman

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Thank you. I should try that too. I should have been more specific, and stated I am looking for a mechanical means of cleaning, something like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062Y599K/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Ohh, for that, I use fiberglass pens.

Like this (I just bought these recently):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017MPYZL0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

or this (Radio Shack used to carry these):
http://www.homedepot.com/p/K-Tool-International-Sanding-Pen-KTI70550/207024763

You can also find the first style with stainless steel or brass bristles.

Or a piece of crocus cloth either on my finger, or wrapped over a piece of wood.
 
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theoldwizard1

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DeOxit Dn5. I have not found anything better. Note however that it will take some time to get the green crusties to go away. Give it a spray, reassemble, and take it apart for a final cleaning in a week or so.

That is the first time have EVER heard of anything actually getting rid of the "green crusties" ! Even it you have wait a week and and re-apply !!
 

rlitman

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That is the first time have EVER heard of anything actually getting rid of the "green crusties" ! Even it you have wait a week and and re-apply !!

It doesn't make them disappear, BUT it does make them let go of the copper. If you've dealt with the "green crusties", you know how they normally require abrasive action to get to good conductive metal, and how no amount of spraying CRC (which is a very good cleaner BTW) will do anything to remove them.

Well, if you give DeOxit enough time to work its way down to the good metal (this can take weeks, if it is bad enough), what is left behind of the green is what I would describe as a foamy scum that will wash off with just a shot of spray cleaner.

My first test of DeOxit was on a solid copper (pre-1982) penny sitting on my desk. It started out about as dark brown as one can get (like a well weathered bronze sculpture). I put a small drop of DeOxit sitting on a spot on it, and left it to sit. Around a month later, I looked back, and the drop was ringed by the green foamy scum. A quick wipe with a piece of TP (one might call the TP at work kind of abrasive, but copper is more resistant to abrasion than my rear end...) left nothing green behind. All the green came off on the TP, and the place where the drop was, had greatly lightened in color, and had a nice metallic twinkle to it.

I've since used it on many copper, silver plated, and more exotic alloys with great success.

For my part, I would suggest being very careful with mechanical means of removing corrosion from contacts. It can lead to loose fitting contacts that bring up new problems.


To be fair, there are plenty of chemicals that will remove the green crusties. An acid dip will for sure too (and that can be a valid method, IF you can be sure that no acid will be wicked into places where it cannot be neutralized following the dip). What I find special about DeOxit is that it selectively removes the oxidation, without slowly destroying the copper underneath.
 
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L.Cheapo

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Thank you all for your replies. What was expected to be a burned out 20 year old OE bulb turned into a wiring issue. Found the crusties in the connectors on the trailering wire harness. Bypassed it to get by last night. Today I found that there was no continuity through the terminal--it had corroded in half inside the connector. The harness is NLA. I made a male terminal and installed it and its working fine. But I'm sure the crusties will come back, hopefully not before I buy some of the above tools and find a new connector!
 
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