Electrolysis Cleaning Problem-Charger trips when power is applied

[Model A Fan]

I'm trying to do some electrolysis on some antique car parts. The battery chargers (2 different brands) are not working as I've done in the past. I've connected the leads to the copper wires I've wrapped on the item to be derusted and then onto the sacrificial anode. The chargers "click" once connected to the leads. Any ideas on how to accomplish this successfully? Thank you.

I followed the video that WOOD put out here:

 

[KenC]

Sounds like just too much current is being drawn and tripping their overloads. What kind of container are you using,and are you sure the two leads aren't in contact with each other?

 

[BurtEggley]

I've connected the leads to the copper wires I've wrapped on the item to be derusted and then onto the sacrificial anode.

The way you wrote the sentence, you describe putting both leads to copper wires that are wrapped around the part and then tied those wires to the anode. Just to be sure, it is one lead to the part and the other lead to the anode. The positive lead goes to an anode and a negative lead to the parts, the cathode. I would also make sure the chargers don't trip out of the water in case there is something else wrong. What are you using for electrolyte?

 

[Model A Fan]

Sounds like just too much current is being drawn and tripping their overloads. What kind of container are you using,and are you sure the two leads aren't in contact with each other?

I'm using a wash basin/ concrete mixing basin. I got it from the concrete section at Home Depot. Now that I think about it, the leads may have been touching via the anodes touching the part. I didn't think of that. I'll try again tomorrow and see if that's the issue. I couldn't see sure to foam from the washing soda.

 

[metalmagpie]

Years ago when I was still messing about with cheap battery chargers to do electrolytic derusting, I discovered that if I did one fair sized job and immediately started another, that I would basically burn out the battery charger. It still looked the same, but it didn't really work anymore. I'm sure I shorted a bunch of turns in the transformer.

Anyway, if your old Schumacher or whatever car battery charger isn't doing what it used to, borrow one from a buddy and try again. If that one works you probably cooked yours.

Today I use a proper DC power supply. It can run in current source or voltage source mode, up to 30 amps of current at 30 volts. I believe it is made by Volteq.

On the other hand, if you are simply triggering overcurent protection, move the anode farther away from your workpiece or make up a new bath with only half as much washing soda. What limtts the current is the resistance of your bath and you can affect that resistance by adding distance between the electrodes or by mixing less ionic material with the water.

Hope that makes sense,

metalmagpie

 

[My Old Tools]

Years ago when I was still messing about with cheap battery chargers to do electrolytic derusting, I discovered that if I did one fair sized job and immediately started another, that I would basically burn out the battery charger. It still looked the same, but it didn't really work anymore. I'm sure I shorted a bunch of turns in the transformer.

Anyway, if your old Schumacher or whatever car battery charger isn't doing what it used to, borrow one from a buddy and try again. If that one works you probably cooked yours.

Today I use a proper DC power supply. It can run in current source or voltage source mode, up to 30 amps of current at 30 volts. I believe it is made by Volteq.

On the other hand, if you are simply triggering overcurent protection, move the anode farther away from your workpiece or make up a new bath with only half as much washing soda. What limtts the current is the resistance of your bath and you can affect that resistance by adding distance between the electrodes or by mixing less ionic material with the water.

Hope that makes sense,

metalmagpie

I did the same thing to several battery chargers, then I got smart and picked up a Lambda bench power supply off eBay. The overload on those chargers is a bi-metal strip that heats and breaks the circuit. After enough trios, it no longer springs back.