To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Electrolysis rust removal: What does done look like?

tool_scrounge

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
4,229
Location
Southern California
I have done a lot of rust removal from iron over the years using diluted molasses. But I picked a small home-made anvil with heavy rust that molasses would not touch. Originally i thought it was the oil? the previous owner applied to it and I had removed. Much later I realized the molasses may have gone bad with age. In the mean time, i decided to try electrolysis rust removal.

I started with a 5 gallon bucked, three 3/8" rebar rods, and 4 gallons of water with 1/3 cup of soda ash (aka washing powder). Since the anvil was not that large, I started with 2A or current but soon raised it to 3A. Over the course of 3 days I changed the water solution and rebar electrodes out.

This is what it looks like. Definitely carbon at the bottom of the pits. The unmachined rail road rail is still pretty dark even after scrubbing with maroon Scotch Brite pads.

Should I try one more time in the electrolysis tank to see if I can clean it up more? Or is this is about as good as it will get.

As a side note, this anvil is HARD. I tried to file the rust in the square hole for a better electrical connection to the hangar wire and all it did was destroy the file.

I presume post electrolysis treatment I should bake it at 300F for 2 hours to prevent hydrogen embrittlement?

Thanks

electrolysis rust removal.jpg

IMG_0337.JPG

IMG_0338.JPGIMG_0339.JPG
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

JradM

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2019
Messages
1,829
Location
Alberta
Is that a little railroad track anvil? If so, it's well done!

I'm making one myself right now - albeit very slowly. Just finished flattening the top surface - and I can confirm that steel is HARD.
 

RTM

Well-known member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Messages
13,415
Location
SF Bay Area
If that was a cast iron plane, I would expect better. For a piece of train track, no idea.

but the fact that the machined surfaces are better than the unmachined parts tells me I would focus up there more for quality of usage, the body is only to make you happy.
 

SweetD

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2010
Messages
3,265
Location
Rhode Island
I've done quite a few pieces with basically the same setup that you've got. Mostly vise parts. That looks pretty well done to me. As mentioned, wire wheel, then hot water rinse, blow dry with air or heat gun/blow dryer, and apply your "top coat", which for me for that piece would be boiled linseed oil.
 

ZRX61

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2006
Messages
28,716
Location
Solar Blight Valley, SoCal
I have it's *almost* twin.
Assuming you have a die grinder: I'd buzz the horn with 3M Scotchbrite Roloc discs & clean up the flat surfaces with wet & dry used on a block. I sprayed the base with Rustoleum rattle can Hammertone black. I'd also take care of those dings on the edge with sanding discs on the die grinder.


anvil1aa.jpg


anvil1ab.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom