Electronic thermostat

[rmanrman]

I’ve got four Honeywell digital 5/2 day programable T stats just for heat. 2 zones up and 2 down. They require aa battery backup. I’ve installed many old school Honeywell tstats that had an anticipator adjustment to keep it from fast cycling
In my master bedroom I hear the relay click when it calls for heat. As soon as I hear the copper baseboard radiators (hot water) making a little noise expanding from the heat my tstat clicks again shutting down. Boilers off. I’ve read and called Honeywell support and was told this is normal for energy efficiency
But if the rooms not fully heated then the cycle starts over. My thoughts are this is waisteing energy. The tstats are 5 years old. Should I try another model of digital tstat I do use the set back programs especially at nighttime. Thanks

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Got a model number or photo of the stat?

Tommy

 

[BillK]

I hear the relay click when it calls for heat. As soon as I hear the copper baseboard radiators (hot water) making a little noise expanding from the heat my tstat clicks again shutting down.

That does not make any sense. We have a Honeywell programmable that is about 10 years old and when it calls for heat you hear the relay click and the furnace fires up. It does not click and shut off until the temp is back to where it is called for.

Has yours always done this ? Any chance the thermostat is on the wall right above one of the baseboards and getting the hot air too quick and thinking it has gotten to temperature ? What is the temperature reading when it is doing all of this ?

 

[rmanrman]

The thermostat is on an inside wall next to the door to the bedroom
Baseboard is on two exterior walls. Could it be possible that the heat rises to the ceiling which is 12 feet angled and doing some kind of strange down draft towards the tstat?
A little crazy I’m going to pick up a new one after the snow storm ��
10-12 inches of snow now that is crazy for December 1st !!

 

[75gmck25]

My boiler has a couple of settings for minimum water temp and maximum water temp. My minimum temp (cast iron radiators) is 100 degrees and my max is 140 degrees.

If my thermostat calls for heat and it runs long enough it will hit the max water temperature and the burner will cycle off, but the pump stays on if it has not reached the set thermostat temp. It should then turn the burner back on after the water temp drops back below 140. However, last year I had a control board in the boiler that went bad, and after it hit the max 140 degrees it would cycle the burner off and it would never come back on. I had to turn the boiler on and off with the breaker to get it to go back to normal. My point is that maybe its the controller for your boiler, not the thermostat that is short cycling.

Bruce

 

[DieselNut88]

Most Honeywell stats have a settings menu that is different from the normal menu. There is a couple buttons you need to hold to access it. If you have never checked those settings I would verify they are correct for your application. I know you can turn off the eco settings in there. If you don't have the manual you can find them online.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

My boiler has a couple of settings for minimum water temp and maximum water temp. My minimum temp (cast iron radiators) is 100 degrees and my max is 140 degrees.

Bruce

I'm assuming you have a condensing boiler? 100°F is low for a standard non condensing boiler.

Tommy

 

[fitter30]

Cast iron boilers 140* is minimum water temp anything below there can be condensate problems with flue gas rusting out the flue and top of boiler.

 

[dfiler2]

"My boiler has a couple of settings for minimum water temp and maximum water temp. My minimum temp (cast iron radiators) is 100 degrees and my max is 140 degrees."

I'm surprised you can heat your home with those water temps, especially using cast iron radiators.

 

[rmanrman]

Problem solved by replacing thermostat with same type and model
Easy snap in no rewiring. Still can’t explain why old unit performance was so weird
Btw is there a way to run power to these electronic thermostats to avoid replacing batteries?

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Problem solved by replacing thermostat with same type and model
Easy snap in no rewiring. Still can’t explain why old unit performance was so weird
Btw is there a way to run power to these electronic thermostats to avoid replacing batteries?

Generally, the batteries don't run the system. They just power the t-stat memory and display backlighting (if it has it). IDK of any good way to eliminate or hard wire the battery power.

Tommy

 

[dogdog]

Most of those T-stat will run on 24VAC as well, most not all (dependent on the model)... if you use the C and that R... but requires you to have R,C,W minimum of 3 wires to the thermostat if it is heat only. More if it is a furnace instead of a boiler... But yea batteries usually is not the problem... have you try to dust that thing?

 

[dogdog]

Problem solved by replacing thermostat with same type and model
Easy snap in no rewiring. Still can’t explain why old unit performance was so weird
Btw is there a way to run power to these electronic thermostats to avoid replacing batteries?

Clean the dust / dirt off the sensors ? I run a air can to the t-stat where I think the sensor is once every other year or hair up the wazzu feelings....like just something to do ....times