Emergency stop
- Thread starter MoeBawlz
- Start date
Well right now I am simply in the planning stages of my garage. I am just thinking safety above anything. I work in a high school and teach in shop settings all day so, safety comes to mind early on in anything I plan.
I was considering an E-stop for all electric in the garage except for the overhead lighting.
I was considering an E-stop for all electric in the garage except for the overhead lighting.
ah ok. not too bad of an idea. I remember jr high school shop class they had that for the shop power.
You would have the subpanel fed from the house (or garage service or whatever you have) this would contain the lighting circuits, circuits for door openers, and anything else you dont want controlled by the on/off buttons. Then you would have a second panel fed from the first (can be via breaker, feedthrough lugs, or subfeed lugs -or the second panel could simply be tapped) the supply to this second panel would go through a contactor. You would have an on button to energize the contactor, and an E stop button to turn it off.
The other way is to use a shunt trip breaker with the E stop button triggering it, but that breaker will cost more than all the stuff I listed.
let me know if you need help sourcing the components cheaply. How much current are you supplying to the garage?
easy to do.
rockwithjason
Well-known member
once again, mrb proves to be a force to be reckoned with. take his advice.
ddawg16
Well-known member
mrb pretty much summed it up.....
There are basically two types of E-Stops....momentary and push to set, pull to reset....
I would go with mrb's way with the contactor....this way you could wire several e-stop buttons in series...all feeding the contactor.....if any of the e-stops are pressed...contactor de-energizes and power is removed.
If money is an issue....Automation Direct has them.....I prefer Allen Bradley 800 series....here is the AB part number
800FP-MT44PX01, Non-Illuminated, Mushroom, Twist to Release
There are basically two types of E-Stops....momentary and push to set, pull to reset....
I would go with mrb's way with the contactor....this way you could wire several e-stop buttons in series...all feeding the contactor.....if any of the e-stops are pressed...contactor de-energizes and power is removed.
If money is an issue....Automation Direct has them.....I prefer Allen Bradley 800 series....here is the AB part number
800FP-MT44PX01, Non-Illuminated, Mushroom, Twist to Release
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ddawg16
Well-known member
A 'Latching' contactor is ok...if...it is energized to the run condition....then, if any wire breaks, it de-energizes and makes the setup safe....
But as noted above, you NEVER want to use a latching relay to endergize to remove power.....it is not what is called a 'fail safe' circuit.
But as noted above, you NEVER want to use a latching relay to endergize to remove power.....it is not what is called a 'fail safe' circuit.
the latching contactor walrus was talking about is a mechanical latching contactor which uses power to close the contactor and to open it but does not require the coil remain energized to hold the contactor closed.
the circuit for using a normal contactor and NC button for e stop and NO button for 'on' which is what I was talking about is what you describe first.
yep.
another benefit to this setup we are discussing, is it requires one to push the 'on' button to turn the power back on after a power failure. Handy as it keeps saws and things from unexpectedly coming on.
dipper
Well-known member
IDEC makes some of the best e-stop buttons on the market. We had one of there sales reps here last week.
