If your conduit runs will be exposed the EMT will look cleaner, and will not need a ground wire run in the 20A circuit. You will need to buy or rent a conduit bender to make it look right. You will need a hacksaw or abrasive chop saw to cut it and a reamer to remove the burrs from the cuts. The cost of the tools should not be enough to deter you from using EMT, since you can do your job with 1/2" or 3/4" material, and both are easy to work with and materials are commonly available. It is more resistant to damage than plastic, but not much. There are several threads about this on this forum.
PVC is pretty easy to run, you can buy ready-made 90* and 45* elbows, and only takes a wood saw to cut. If it is left exposed, the joints will show if you are at all sloppy with the glue. The cuts need to be chamfered on the inside to make feeding the wire easier and keep from abrading the jacket of the wire - I use a knife to peel off a bevel on the bore of the end. I cut PVC with a carpenter's miter saw, hacksaw, or hand saw. You can make minor bends by heating the PVC with a heat gun (I use a piece of 4" duct pipe to direct the heat all the way around the conduit, leaving the duct still split open to provide access for the heat gun snout the full length) but need to be careful not to reduce the ID when you do. You can buy coiled-spring devices to prevent collapsing the ID from electrical supply houses.
I have a steel-framed building with stick-frame interior walls and floors in one end. I used PVC condit where it was covered by drywall or buried in/below the concrete, Romex through the wood walls/floors, and EMT for the surface-mount runs in the workshop. Each has its place and works well.