emt strapping question

[MerlinsBeard]

I have several 4ft fixtures I'm mounting to joists in the ceiling with finished drywall. For the runs of emt that are run perpendicular to the joists, it seems like either conduit straps or hangers provide good support options since you can anchor to wood.

But if the emt is routed to the knockout in the center of the fixture and the conduit runs in parallel with the joist, seems like only the conduit hanger would allow you to support emt in wood as the strap would likely be anchored in the middle of sheetrock.

Anyone have experience with supporting 1/2 emt conduit on finished ceilings and can make a recommendation? I don't think struts look very appealing, so prefer to avoid them. Any reasons when to use conduit straps vs hangers?

 

[tyme2par4]

If you have access to the attic, you could easily add blocking between the joists.
If not, I would think toggle bolts or a similar heavy duty drywall anchor would be sufficient.
Better yet, you could run it along a joist, and then just 90 over to the fixture 6" away from it. Probably not as clean looking though.

 

[Terry D]

Use these anchors with one hole straps or minerallacs (minnies)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AM0X4DI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[mcbane]

Once you have seen what a water leak can do to a drywall ceiling, you will be hesitant to hang conduit and light fixtures from the drywall. If the conduit follows a joist you can use the single screw clips. And if the conduit needs to be between two joists, you can span between the joists with a piece of low profile unistrut and then secure the conduit with a strut clamp of the correct size.

 

[u2slow]

Or alternative to the unistrut... span the rafters with 16" or 24" strips of plywood for the conduit straps. Pick the right thickness to avoid having to make offset bends into the fixtures.

 

[nadogail]

Or alternative to the unistrut... span the rafters with 16" or 24" strips of plywood for the conduit straps. Pick the right thickness to avoid having to make offset bends into the fixtures.

thanks for sharing, I like that idea, bending offsets can be tricky for a beginner and Offset Connectors are not cheap.

 

[sparky 1971]

Use these anchors with one hole straps or minerallacs (minnies)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AM0X4DI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Those work really well. I also wouldn't be afraid to use a wall dog to support 1/2" emt. Don't use toggle bolts. The hole in the ceiling will be larger than the strap will cover. You will need to put a fender washer in between the strap and the ceiling in order to make it work.

 

[klassenl]

Once you have seen what a water leak can do to a drywall ceiling....

If you have a water leak you have other problems.

 

[dscheidt]

Anyone have experience with supporting 1/2 emt conduit on finished ceilings and can make a recommendation?

If you have bent the offsets correctly, the straps are only supporting the weight of the conduit and wire, and practically any anchor will hold them in place (10 feet of 1/2 emt weighs about three pounds. 14 gauge thhn weighs 15 pounds per 1000 feet. So you should be talking less than four pounds an anchor, which is nothing.) If you have poorly bent conduit, and require the strap to pull the conduit into place, you'll need something heavier, or something attached to framing.

 

[rburke65]

Just use an 1/8” toggle n a clamp.

 

[BFBOB]

Those work really well. I also wouldn't be afraid to use a wall dog to support 1/2" emt. Don't use toggle bolts. The hole in the ceiling will be larger than the strap will cover. You will need to put a fender washer in between the strap and the ceiling in order to make it work.

Toggle bolts have their uses - here's a clever design I've used sometimes when it mightbe important to be able to change what's hanging from it. The key is to put the bolt through the toggle backwards. Yes, you do need a fender washer.
Crank down on the barrel connector as much as needed to make it secure, then screw the conduit hanger, J-hook, bridle ring or whatever to it.
I'm a big fan of Zip-Its, but this arrangement is stronger, and if it ever needs to be changed/adjusted the screw comes out easily without disturbing the toggle bolt. If necessary, you can hold the barrel connector with a wrench while unscrewing.

And, the greater distance it hangs below the ceiling makes offsets at the boxes unnecessary.

 

[Terry D]

Toggle bolts have their uses - here's a clever design I've used sometimes when it mightbe important to be able to change what's hanging from it. The key is to put the bolt through the toggle backwards. Yes, you do need a fender washer.
Crank down on the barrel connector as much as needed to make it secure, then screw the conduit hanger, J-hook, bridle ring or whatever to it.
I'm a big fan of Zip-Its, but this arrangement is stronger, and if it ever needs to be changed/adjusted the screw comes out easily without disturbing the toggle bolt. If necessary, you can hold the barrel connector with a wrench while unscrewing.

And, the greater distance it hangs below the ceiling makes offsets at the boxes unnecessary.

You would still have to bend a offset with that set up. It would be hanging down to low with that threaded rod coupler. A minnie, when tightened up to the ceiling, will be spaced off the surface perfect to go into the fixture or box

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