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Enclosed trailer ideas..construction

Joined
Nov 25, 2018
Messages
12
Location
Illinois
What model and size do you own?

Do you use it for construction?

pictures of the inside please...I'm trying to get ideas for shelving etc..

To store miter saw/table, power tools, ladders, levels, material, etc.....


7x16 is the size I'm looking at. They have some left over models for sale down to $3,900. regular 4,500-5,000ish. They also have a few 7x16' trailers 6" taller than stock for 400.00 more.

My long term goal is to own 100 rental properties and to flip 4 houses per year. I want to buy the trailer and set it up for all my construction tools.

Open to advice on other trailers as well. Thanks!
 
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Muckin_Slusher

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2017
Messages
465
Location
Abitibi
Permanently install skinny unistrut (half thickness stuff) on the walls vertically.

Build whatever you want out of unistrut and attach to the vertical pieces and don't worry at all if you're not "sure" it's exactly what you want or where you want it.

Change your mind?
Buy a new tool that doesn't fit somewhere?
Have a new idea or configuration?

Dissasemble what you have and move/mod as needed.

Never make anything permanent and expect it to evolve/change forever.

Strut looks like this:

silver-superstrut-struts-zb14hs10eg-64_1000.jpg

Brackets look like this:

Flat-Plate-Connecting-Fittings-1.jpg

Use these springnuts:

Weldless-Connections-With-Unistrut1.jpg

Buy these sweet plasti dipped HEAVY hooks from CAB:

CAB-Standard-J-Hook.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
O
Joined
Nov 25, 2018
Messages
12
Location
Illinois
Permanently install skinny unistrut (half thickness stuff) on the walls vertically.

Build whatever you want out of unistrut and attach to the vertical pieces and don't worry at all if you're not "sure" it's exactly what you want or where you want it.

Change your mind?
Buy a new tool that doesn't fit somewhere?
Have a new idea or configuration?

Dissasemble what you have and move/mod as needed.

Never make anything permanent and expect it to evolve/change forever.

Strut looks like this:

silver-superstrut-struts-zb14hs10eg-64_1000.jpg

Brackets look like this:

Flat-Plate-Connecting-Fittings-1.jpg

Use these springnuts:

Weldless-Connections-With-Unistrut1.jpg

Buy these sweet plasti dipped HEAVY hooks from CAB:

CAB-Standard-J-Hook.jpg



Thanks a bunch for the tips!
 

bradpac

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2013
Messages
721
Location
Central TX
I suggest 5200lb axles on whatever you get. An enclosed already starts off heavy and it's pretty easy to pack them full...
 
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LXCam

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
19,145
Location
AZ
I don't have any pictures handy of my construction trailer. But it was a Pace American and the same size you're looking at. The nose was set up with you're typical craftsmen roll away bottom and top box directly to the right as you entered the man door. Obviously sans the wheels and bolted down. I also had a safety bar that locked over the drawers so there wasn't any chance of them opening. Then I welded up a frame from 1" square tubing uprights and 2" x 1/8" angle iron facing upright with multiple shelves to the left and complete width over the top of the box. All the shelves where made from expanded metal to get them as lite as possible and not collect debris. This was a great place to store large cased tools and materials. And with the angle facing up kept stuff from falling off.

The walls had cantilevered brackets I made to store a 12' and 10' stepladder on the left and a 8' and 6' on the right up as high as possible. The right wall at the very rear also had the spare mounted and a jack so it was never buried.

Along the floor I took 8ft pieces of 2" x 3/16" angle and drillled 1" holes every 6" and bolted it to the frame with the bottom L facing the wheel wells. That minimized the amount of floor and allowed me to use tie downs for whatever. The floor was also covered with commercial grade VCT.

Forward of the right side wheel well was a heavy duty enclosure that housed a battery charger and battery. Along with a alarm system with GPS tracking. This allowed me to not freak out about leaving it on a job site far far away and I received notifications if it was accessed or moved. Supply power was accommodated by a exterior flush mount male plug so you could power up the thing without having the doors open.

That thing got used with my construction business for almost 20 yrs and I bet had every bit of a 100k miles on it by the time I sold it.
 

gasgas17

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 7, 2009
Messages
443
Location
Nova Scotia, Canada
I like working out of a van myself. We have an enclosed trailer but don't use it to store our tools. We haul garbage, scaffold cabinets and building supplies in the trailer and also use it to store materials on the job site. But we don't use the trailer every day and it's nice to not have to haul a trailer all the time.
 
Last edited:

PNWguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 3, 2018
Messages
494
Location
Near Grants Pass, OR
On a trailer that size, I'd recommend a tandem axle, with brakes on both. Unless you need to store it in a low garage, get the taller one - make sure you can stand up inside it with a hat on.

I had a 16' V nose, tandem.
- 1/2" plywood screwed to the walls.
- E-track about 3' up the walls, running the full length.
- E-track on the floor (I hauled wheeled toys on occasion)
- I had a bench in the V-nose, so I could work on small stuff inside
- Battery, so I could have lights
- I much prefer barn doors to a ramp door, especially if you're in a city and parking is ever tight
 

TLCObsession

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
328
Location
Bellingham, WA
A 6" space behind a storage rack on one side of the rear is really nice for storing and hauling sheet goods. I take care of some rental and commercial properties in my non-existent spare time. Having 2 sheets of 1/2" drywall, a sheet of 5/8" and a sheet of 3/4" plywood have saved me so much time. Above the 4' level are PVC tubes for PEX, PVC and other long supplies as well as my long level.
 

jamesvictor

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Messages
6
Location
back
The 8.5 x 16 enclosed trailer is actually better because it will be able to haul quite a load. Empty the unit weighs 2,800 pounds. Most large cars, vans, and light SUVs are able to tow up to around 3,500 pounds, with many running in the 6,000-pound and 7,000-pound range. This means no matter what you drive, you should still have ample room to load up and safely tow your 8.5 x 16 enclosed cargo trailer. You can check it out here https://trailers123.com/
 

BigMike782

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
1,867
Location
49120
My guess is by this point he is on a sandy beach with a drink in his hand.
Just a guess.
 
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