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Enclosing an Attached Carport - Specific Issues

Pachyderm

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Sep 13, 2014
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3
My carport is on a cement slab, about 23'x24', attached to the house via the roof and attic and to the laundry room. It has the laundry room exterior wall on one side (a bit more than half the length of that side) and a matching length wall opposite that. The “back” of the carport is open, and the “front” is open and also lacks a bit less than half of the sidewalls, as described.

For the sake of simplification, let us call the walls as you would see them if sitting in the car, head in. The wall straight ahead of me would be N. The wall to the house’s laundry room would be E. The opposite 1/2 length wall would be W and the wall where the garage door will one day be can be called S.

The house is a pier and joist structure, no cement slab. There is a 24” (or more, perhaps) brick skirting around the entire house with steel grates at all the normal points as well as an access door down on one side in the fenced part of the house. The slab of the carport seems to be about a foot and a half or a bit less above the ground level, leaving about a half a foot to a foot of brickwork above the slab before you get to the actual house.

[The carport is in the rear of the house, if that matters.]

Initially I will frame-in and build the S wall, which currently is open space.

The problem is that the corner of the house where my wall will have to join up is sitting on that brick skirting, which runs down the E wall, a doorway with a step up into the house in the center of that short wall, so the other end of that same short laundry room wall is also living on that brick skirting.

The W wall is also a bit more than 1/2 of the carport depth, both running from about 10’ back from the S edge of the carport (where the garage door would go) to the N corner. The new N wall would simply have to run the space between these two short walls.

However, the W wall is strictly a frame with OSB cladding that has been painted. It has vinyl siding on the outside and some quarter round at the bottom of the inside face in order to make it look a little less redneck-y. ;-)

If I want to have a wall that joins with the house, do I have to use bricks at the bottom (or cinderblocks) to join the new construction to the old? Or can I simply build a wooden frame that attaches directly to the house's bricks?

Further, if I *do* have to use blocks or bricks to join my new wall to the old corner will I also have to take down the W wall and put up bricks to the same height all the way around the garage and reframe the wall so the sill/footer lives on top of the new brickwork? I do not care whether the walls of the garage "match" the walls of the house as far as the line at the bottom being even. The cladding can go to the slab and extend below the bricks. I know that would look bad, but I need to get this done.

Anyway, step one would be framing-in the N wall and tying it in to the house properly, then installing all the OSB, waterproofing, clapboards and such. After that I will have an open box that overs about 1/2 of my roofed-in slab for my cars.

At that point I need to cheaply wall-in a small workshop at the corner of the W wall to the centerline of the space and around to the new N wall.

I really need to get this done by midsummer.

Next summer I can extend the E and W walls to the corners and frame in a garage door opening. I am not in a big hurry to do that just yet. I need to build a shop so I can get back to work. (Very long sob story. Don’t ask. Suffice it to say that I need a safe place for my tools and my big workbenches that I can lock up when not working.)

I really just need help with building N, tying it into E properly, and altering (if necessary) W.

What should I do?

Here are a pair of photos of my space to help you visualize my rambling description.

Thanks for any help!

Wade
 

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fireeqpsrv

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Mississippi
I read the post and I would not think that brick would be needed unless you were wanting to have it "Pretty" for visibility or to tie in the look with the existing brick. I would say cinder block your lower wall and stud up from there. If you start the framing you might as well go ahead and frame up the other wall on the west side (the half wall).


Some others here will hopefully give you more direction on getting what you need done.
 

K'ledgeBldr

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Aug 22, 2011
Messages
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Location
Johns Creek, GA
The biggest and most common "failure" of this type conversion is framing the walls directly onto the slab.

The problem stems from two different causes- both are water related. Usually the grade around the carport is just below the surface of the carport- you need a minimum of 6".
Then there's the flatness of the carport- rarely were carports poured with slope. Which means if it were enclosed it could potentially hold water. Both of these scenarios will damage and/or rot the sill and walls- even pressure treated.

The best start is a one or two course stem wall- with dowelled in rebar and filled with a grout mix. Sealing the exterior with waterproofing membrame will take care of the exterior water.

Then frame your walls on top of the stem wall(s).

The only issue you'll have to deal with is water intrusion from the garage door, when you get to that stage- Unless you want to get into a bunch of concrete work/rework.
 
OP
P

Pachyderm

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Sep 13, 2014
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My slab is about six to eight inches above the ground all around. It is always dry on the N and W side when it pours rain. I will have a problem with the SE corner as the patio slopes that way and drains into that corner of the carport when it rains. The patio is brick, so I think I can alter the slope in a different direction.

So I need to set a single course of cinderblocks along the new N wall and then redo the short W wall to match when I lengthen it to the SW corner? (You called that a "stem wall" which is a term new to me. I will Google it.)

(I think my photos above will help you to visualize my questions. Again, the solid wall that I am going to put in would be N for this discussion. The half wall to the left would be W and the house - also a short wall - would be E with the proposed opening/garage door being S.)

So does this sound like a plan?

• Lay out cinderblocks along edge of slab.
• Mark slab for holes for rebar through cinderblocks.
• Remove cinderblocks.
• Drill out holes for rebar.
• Cut rebar to length.
• Cement rebar into holes and allow to set overnight.
• Lay single course of cinderblocks.
• Fill holes in cinderblocks with cement and set wall frame attachment points.

Is that basically it?

If so...

• To what depth do I drill into the slab for the rebar?
• What diameter hole do I need to drill?
• What is used to anchor the rebar into the slab? Quikrete?
• What do I sink into the grout-filled cinderblocks to anchor the sill boards?
• What size do the sills need to be? 2x8?

Am I starting to get this? I will not start until I have this mapped out 100% in my head first.

Thanks for your patience!

Wade
 
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K'ledgeBldr

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Hopefully the slab has been thickened around the perimeter- the holes should be in the *6"-8" depth.
*Diameter is dependent on size of rebar
*Epoxy- there is some that is specific to this type of use
*Sill anchors or sill bolts- spacing is by code
*Whatever you plan to use to stud the wall. 2X4-2X4; 2X6-2X6
 

Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
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Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Technically you need footings under walls. You could underpin the perimeter. Length of rebar into the slab is not to exceed the thickness. Drill holes at an angle, epoxy the bar into a CLEAN hole and then bend up straight. This will give you some hold down grip as well as pinning the stem wall from movement/
 

Mr_P

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May 29, 2015
Messages
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Location
Tinley Park, IL
Hey there Wade. Any updates on your Carport enclosure? I'm over in Meridian, and am planning a similar enclosure.
 

LB-1911

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Sep 24, 2011
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Location
Northwestern Il.
Hey there Wade. Any updates on your Carport enclosure? I'm over in Meridian, and am planning a similar enclosure.

His last activity on this site was: 06-11-2015.

You might try a PM, there is a chance he set up email notification.

:beer:
 
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