Enclosing odd carport...ideas?

[Agent1320]

Hey folks, I'm wanting to enclose the 3 open sides of this weird little carport. I have a tight budget, but want it to be secure, dry, and look good.

I thought about framing it out with studs and covering it with pre primed composite panels and build a simple swing out garage door. This should look good and be a pretty simple undertaking that would be within budget, but I am exploring other options.

It is 20' deep, 13' wide, and the ceiling height is a very low 6.5'.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

 

[Streetbu]

Sounds good. Make sure to use treated wood on the concrete. Maybe just some T-111 siding painted to match the house so it blends in better.

 

[James-W]

Doing the studs for the walls won't be a problem, but making the door work MIGHT prove to be a challenge.

 

[CNGsaves]

OP, your toughest problem is end with the steps that is "below grade" or at least downhill where water will be running down those steps and right against wall of garage.

I'd probably form up plywood mold running down edge of steps up to point that you'd have man door on that end for concrete wall. Drill holes in vertical side of steps and floor for rebar and tie it all together for concrete wall that is secure. You'll fill the "sandwich" forms with concrete (and vibrate out air pockets) just like you would for basement wall. Otherwise you'll have rotting wall on that end if you made it out of wood.

While you're working with concrete, you could build perimeter forms for right side wall to have 8 inches of concrete at ground level as well. Short forms for concrete footers also on either side of garage door opening for 8" tall footers. Then just normal stick build the walls up from concrete footer up to ceiling.

For garage door, I'd use old school flip-up clamshell type door that opens outward.

 

[jd_1138]

Yeah I second the idea for concrete at the bottom. Might as well do it right and have a solid structure for decades rather than framing up wood only to see it rot from water. Then T1-11 would be nice to skin the framing with.

Also, don't forget to add some rain gutters and some downspout extensions.

 

[Lippyp]

Cinder blocks then render and paint it.

 

[kbs2244]

CODE RESTRICTIONS?
Going from no walls to solid walls can be a code problem.
If all you want is weather protection, then heavy tarps may be the solution.

 

[ADSR]

CODE RESTRICTIONS?

don't take a permit out. problem solved

 

[Agent1320]

No restrictions out here, but I don't want to do concrete. Due to the stair issue I'm considering finishing that back wall against the stairs out of aluminum, which I have enough scrap tubing and sheet to frame and skin it. This will eliminate rotten wood, mold, etc. The rest will likely be 2x4 studs with hardie panels. I already have enough studs so I just need to pick up some hardie panels. Probably do this in June, I'll update with progress.

 

[John in OH]

No restrictions out here, but I don't want to do concrete. Due to the stair issue I'm considering finishing that back wall against the stairs out of aluminum, which I have enough scrap tubing and sheet to frame and skin it. This will eliminate rotten wood, mold, etc. The rest will likely be 2x4 studs with hardie panels. I already have enough studs so I just need to pick up some hardie panels. Probably do this in June, I'll update with progress.

I dunno, but I agree with CNGsaves and jd_1138 regarding the concrete and stairs. Looks as if you could have a problem along the edge of the stairs and at the bottom of the stairs between your new wall and the existing retaining wall. Where does the rain water drain to at the bottom of the steps?

Money may be tight now, so maybe you should save up a few more bucks for awhile and do it once and do it right! Remember the old question, "Why is there never enough money to do it right, but always enough money to do it over?"

Also, skip the T-111. Since it will now be integral to your house, spend the extra dollars to make it look nice and not like some hill-billy lean-to.

 

[cdestuck]

Because of the cement being so close to grade I think I would stud out the walls and after ripping some pressure-treated plywood to 12 inches wide I would use that horizontally to attach to the studs and bottom sill. Then from there up to the roof I would use the composite or T1 11. The pressure treated plywood could then be left to age or painted although that might be a constant issue with flaking. But I definitely would not have T1 11 or anything else come down very close to the concrete