Enco Mill Help

[jeernst]

I have an old Enco Mill in fair shape for having to be salvaged decades ago by the owner, previous to the last owner. There is a lot of 'play'/backlash in the verticle Z axis when the manual dial is engaged. I know it is the 'z' axis, but I don't know if my other nomenclature is correct. Before I begin taking it apart, I just thought I'd drop in & ask if anyone can give me a hint or two. Is this something that can be adjusted? Like the steering column in an old vehicle....

Thanks in advance for any tips, John

 

[rsanter]

Odds are you cannot adjust it, it there are things that can be done.
Do you have a diagram?
You could make a new nut or you can make a nut that does next to at that will allow you to adjust clearance

 

[jeernst]

That's NOT what I wanted to hear(!) But thanks. I was able, just now in the last 5 minutes, to find & download a manual for it. Even that is incredible. I'll look into it in the next few days, after I print it and let you know if I discover anything worth getting thrilled about. I may have to make a wrench to assist in loosening up the lock nut.

Thanks again, John

 

[txvwnut]

Is this a bench top or Enco’s J head Bridgeport copy?

 

[rsanter]

Some pictures will help so,we know what size of machine we are talking about.
Backlash in the Z axis is often ignored as the weight of the head automatically takes care of it.
Perhaps the ways are hummed up and not letting the head move as free as it should be or this is a small machine where the head does not weigh much.

All machines are fixable, it wether it's worth fixing of not, an issue with a feed screw/nut is fairly minor and often easy to address.
Get some pictures and a model number posted and we can help some more

 

[jeernst]

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[jeernst]

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[jeernst]

It is an Enco bench top. There is a gib adjustment screw for the X and Y axis, but I don’t see one for the Z axis. Sure would like a little more precision with that. Thx with any help. John


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[Provincial]

On a round column mill drill like that, all you can do is keep the quill lock just tight enough to keep the quill from dropping on it's own weight. That way, the feed rack and pinion backlash is kept toward the "advancing" side of the gear teeth. Most people add a digital scale (readout) to the quill travel so they can determine the actual position of the quill. They are fairly inexpensive, and worth it!

I have done quite a bit of work on a Ru Fong version of that machine, and within it's limitations, it is reasonably accurate.

 

[jeernst]

That’s a great explanation. Thank you. If I discover any insights, I’ll let you know. Really appreciate it. John


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[jeernst]

Keeping the quill lock "just tight enough to keep the quill from dropping..." will work well, thanks. With it being just tight enough, I can still advance it. There is probably more than .010 inch of 'open range' with engagement! Thanks again, John

 

[txvwnut]

That should be real similar to a Rong-Fu RF30. You should be able to pull the quill feed off and shim it. One thing to look at is when you are operating the quill feed manual dial does it move fore or aft before the quill starts to move.

 

[Provincial]

You're welcome! Glad to help.