I recently bought a used 5ph, 2 stage, Energair compressor. I have been looking for information on it and have little luck. I am posting a few of pictures on the unit inhopes someone will recognize it and hopefully steer me towards a manual and parts break down of it. It runs relatively well just has a little leak on pump up from the head gasket.
Energair compressor
- Thread starter Peter M
- Start date
RTM
Well-known member
No pics attached
honcho
Well-known member
I definitely want to see the 5 phase motor! I suspect the OP meant 5 hp, 3 phase
Call the manufacturer?
5 horse power, 2 stage, single phase 240 VAC. I sure got that messed up. I would call the manufacturer if I knew who it was. It kind of looks like a T21 Ingersoll Rand compressor. But the mount of the 22mm type from the low side to the high side does not match.
Lightning rod
Well-known member
looks like they are still around
energair.com
Compressed air management - A cleaner approach - Energair
For compressed air management - from energy, cost and ESG audit & assessment through to asset performance management & continuous improvement - choose ENERGAIR
energair.com
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
This is an ABAC pump from Italy. You might find parts at Master Tool Repair. You would have to know the exact model, but I think it may be a B6000. There are many that look exactly alike and are just a half bolt hole out, so be sure before ordering.
I got a response back from Energair. They do not make equipment only control systems for compressors. Dead end.
I emailed ABAC pump. I have not heard back from them.
Next I contacted Master Tool repair. They had no lookups on my model number and told me Devilbliss was the manufacturer of this compressor.
I am now trying to track down Devilbiss.
I emailed ABAC pump. I have not heard back from them.
Next I contacted Master Tool repair. They had no lookups on my model number and told me Devilbliss was the manufacturer of this compressor.
I am now trying to track down Devilbiss.
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
DeVilbiss, IR, Sanborn, Energair, BelAire, Balma and even now Quincy. The number of companies that used these pumps is enormous, but it is an ABAC pump. Antonio Balma Air Compressor.
The pump has written on it made in Italy. Which supports that it is an ABAC pump. The mounting holes, approximately 9-3/16 by 7-7/16 does not match up with the mounting specs for the 6000 series ABAC pump. 6000 pump is approximately 9-3/4 by 7-3/4.
Based on my research it is an obsolete ABAC model 5000 series. I could not find specs on it or information on parts availability if I were to pull it down and replace rings or reed valves if that is what it uses.
Here is what I know - 80 gallon tank - 5 hp
Pump up pressure (new gauge) and time
25 psi - 71 sec
50 psi - 141 sec
75 psi - 215 sec
100 psi - 289 sec
125 psi - 369 sec
150 psi - 459 sec
165 psi - 517 sec (pressure switch cutoff)
Based on that data what are the recommendations? I purchased it to abrasive blast a 79 MGB doing a complete restoration on it. It is stripped down to the shell right now hanging in the garage, floor pan and rocker removed on right side. When weather gets better and I have time I will roll it outside and blast inside frame and rocker area where the floor pan and rocker go, hit it with an epoxy or other suitable paint and weld the pan and rocker in. (75% of castle member also getting replaced). Then do the same on the driver side, trunk area ...... and one day in the future be ready to rebuild and install the mechanical components.
Here is what I know - 80 gallon tank - 5 hp
Pump up pressure (new gauge) and time
25 psi - 71 sec
50 psi - 141 sec
75 psi - 215 sec
100 psi - 289 sec
125 psi - 369 sec
150 psi - 459 sec
165 psi - 517 sec (pressure switch cutoff)
Based on that data what are the recommendations? I purchased it to abrasive blast a 79 MGB doing a complete restoration on it. It is stripped down to the shell right now hanging in the garage, floor pan and rocker removed on right side. When weather gets better and I have time I will roll it outside and blast inside frame and rocker area where the floor pan and rocker go, hit it with an epoxy or other suitable paint and weld the pan and rocker in. (75% of castle member also getting replaced). Then do the same on the driver side, trunk area ...... and one day in the future be ready to rebuild and install the mechanical components.
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
That works out to about 14cfm, which is in the ballpark performance wise. If I remember correctly, these have disc valves which ride directly against a seat cast into the aluminum head plate. These were removeable, and I think individually available, but the general idea was to replace the entire plate and valves as a piece. I still think this is a B6000, since the 5000 is listed as a 3hp pump. The shape of the crankcase and intercooler is also a closer match.
mastertoolrepair.com
If there isn't any obvious problem with the compressor like excessive oil pumping, I'd use it as-is. It's a bit small for abrasive blasting, so you will need a very small tip. This is not an especially durable compressor though, so be aware it might give its all on this job. Use a good quality oil, and keep it well ventilated with a clean air filter to maximize its chances. Most likely failure point, imo, is the valve plate, so a spare wouldn't be a bad idea.
FWIW, I always hated working on these things. The flywheel was an absolute ***** to get off, since it didn't use a key and was forced onto a tapered shaft by the center bolt. It was also quite fragile and would tolerate no excess force to get it off. The many fan blades prevented getting a puller behind it. You also had to remove the base pan and invert the whole pump to get a ratchet extension with a hex driver on it to remove the bolts holding the block to the case. These inevitably require he-man twisting to get the bolt and aluminum threads to part company. Then, when it was all apart, you had a hell of a time digging out the remains of the base gasket from the recessed top of the crankcase that it sat in. So what I'm saying is, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!
B6000 Pump Parts, B6000 Pump - Page 2
B6000 Pump Parts, B6000 Pump. Repair parts for B6000 pumps used on S71-AT32,7580B,C07Z080 air compressors
mastertoolrepair.com
If there isn't any obvious problem with the compressor like excessive oil pumping, I'd use it as-is. It's a bit small for abrasive blasting, so you will need a very small tip. This is not an especially durable compressor though, so be aware it might give its all on this job. Use a good quality oil, and keep it well ventilated with a clean air filter to maximize its chances. Most likely failure point, imo, is the valve plate, so a spare wouldn't be a bad idea.
FWIW, I always hated working on these things. The flywheel was an absolute ***** to get off, since it didn't use a key and was forced onto a tapered shaft by the center bolt. It was also quite fragile and would tolerate no excess force to get it off. The many fan blades prevented getting a puller behind it. You also had to remove the base pan and invert the whole pump to get a ratchet extension with a hex driver on it to remove the bolts holding the block to the case. These inevitably require he-man twisting to get the bolt and aluminum threads to part company. Then, when it was all apart, you had a hell of a time digging out the remains of the base gasket from the recessed top of the crankcase that it sat in. So what I'm saying is, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Last edited:
I already have had the flywheel off when I had the tube from the low side to the high side repaired. I simply applied some pulling force against the spindle nut with a short bar and 2 c-clamps and then used a propane torch to heat up the center of the flywheel. Aluminum expands faster than steel so pop it came right off.
I came across this compressor when I was doing a search. It is an Ingersoll rand T21 and it looks exactly like my compressor, even has the same plastic guard on it. Main difference is mine is a horizontal tank and this one is vertical tank. Did ABAC make this compressor for IR or does some other mfg make this? Where would a good place be to get parts for a T21 pump? You mentioned having a spare valve plate.
You also suggested a small orifice for sand blasting. What size would you recommend? I was thinking an 1/8 to 3/16. Thanks for your input,
Peter M
You also suggested a small orifice for sand blasting. What size would you recommend? I was thinking an 1/8 to 3/16. Thanks for your input,
Peter M
Attachments
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
It's "probably" the same pump. The fact that it has an identical belt guard tells you just how many different companies basically took a commodity machine and put their own paint and stickers on it. However I cannot guarantee T21 parts will fit. If you need B6000 parts they are all there at Master Tool Repair. As far as nozzle sizes there are far more qualified members to give you advice on that. I would think 1/8" would be about right though.
There must be a better way to drain the oil. The oil had a small amount of water sitting on top. I saw it as it tricked out quickly on top of the oil. There was a decent amount of sludge that came out. What is the best way to clean out the dump. I have some diesel fuel that I could squirt in the hole where the site glass is. I do not think I would run the pump with diesel fuel in it. What would you suggest?
Before someone chimes in and says oil floats on water and not the other way around. That is due to density different between the too. Oil is typically not as dense as water. But if the oil is full if sludge that will change it's density and the water will sit on the sludge.
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
You would be amazed at the cleaning power of WD40. Other than that, I'd use some Varsol, Stoddard solvent, white spirit or whatever you refer to it as in your neck of the woods.
I'd also install a pipe on that drain to get it out past the saddle of the tank. I can't remember what that thread is at the moment, but vaguely recall it was some ******* metric thread you could not screw a proper ****** into.
I'd also install a pipe on that drain to get it out past the saddle of the tank. I can't remember what that thread is at the moment, but vaguely recall it was some ******* metric thread you could not screw a proper ****** into.
WD40 work perfect on the inside of the pump. I put a quart in and ran it for 10 seconds drained it, filtered the WD40 and repeated 5 times till no chunks came out. What would be a good way to clean the tank?
Horizontal tank, picture looking in through the pressure switch hole
Attachments
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
Ok, I meant WD-40 more as a spray clean through the sight glass hole, not as an actual lube, but it seems to have worked. If you weren't pumping up there was probably little load on the compressor.
I wouldn't worry about the tank. 99.9% of tanks never see the light of day inside them after the compressor is built.
I wouldn't worry about the tank. 99.9% of tanks never see the light of day inside them after the compressor is built.