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Engine assembly lube?

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Nov 6, 2013
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oxfordshire
I'm putting an a series engine together and I was wondering what lube I should use? Or is just good ol wd40 okay?


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u118224

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Northern MI
My local Carquest carries Lubriplate engine assembly lube, which is what I've used. I don't know if it's available in the UK. I would not recommend WD40.
 

Dave455

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Lubing everything with regular engine oil as you assemble is normal practice. Has worked o.k. for years! Engine assembly lube is extra sticky and offers some advantages as it doesn't drain to the sump as fast a regular oil. WD 40 is far too thin, and the solvent dries anyway leaving a dry film which is even thinner! Could well seize your engine!
 

RM209

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My local Carquest carries Lubriplate engine assembly lube, which is what I've used. I don't know if it's available in the UK. I would not recommend WD40.

I've used that product from Lubriplate, and several years ago it was moly-based and very slippery. The engine assembly lube is particularly useful if you assemble parts of an engine that might sit for a while before being run; it's heavier than oil and won't drain off.

RM209
 

bobcatdan

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I have lubriplate no.105 in my toolbox. I have rebuilt many of engines, hydraulic pumps and motors with it and had no problems. Regular engine oil in a pump would work fine too. I don't know of anything in an aerosol can that would work.
 

A_Pmech

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WD-40? No way!

Lubriplate 105 is the standard assembly lubricant. The purpose of an assembly lubricant is to remain in the location where lubrication is needed until the engine is started for the first time.

However, if it will only be a matter of days before the engine is assembled and started, engine oil is usually fine. Prime the oil pump before starting!
 

trainer

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Northern Ontario, Canada
Lucas oil additive. I wouldn't add it to my oil, but it's sticky and good for assembly lube, especially if the engine may sit for some time before being started

Also check your manual. some engines specify special camshaft lubricants
 

greasemonkey44

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memphis
Thanks 1950 mercury I snorted my drink :-(
I use motor oil, it's never long between assembly and starting for me
If I did engine work more often I would use lubriplate
I have used stp oil treatment in the past, sticky like you wouldn't believe
 

neonlazer

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Lafayette, LA
Oreilly's has a tube of engine assembly lube, my friend uses it just for that..its nice, thick, and delicious on food after you finish working and don't feel like washing your hands..:spit:
 

GTA Matt

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I use GM EOS assembly lube on everything, of course it doesn't hurt that my old parts guy gave me a case of it. Any of the liquid assembly lubes work well. I would prefer them over straight motor oil, but a good 15w-40 would be better then a 5w-30 as far as staying where you put it obviously.
 

Tripp2012

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Red Line oil has a nice assembly lube that I've used in the past and works well.
 

Terra Nova

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I've always used a tube of engine assembly lube from the parts store. it's a White grease

Had an uncle who was an old hot rodder from years back and built many engines. He swore by using a mix of 50% engine oil and 50% STP.
 
OP
B
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Nov 6, 2013
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oxfordshire
Iv built engines at work quite a few times and we usually use just straight 40 out if a can, but this is my engine and It's had a lot of new parts thrown at it, so I don't want any grinding on start up, so I want a really good assembly lube. What do you guys think of the oil with zinc in it for freshly built engine? A gimmick or worth the price?


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bwringer

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I've used Permatex Ultra Slick (#81950) on many motorcycle engines. The moly-based lubes might cause problems with wet clutches.

It's sticky, slick, and bright red so you can see where you put it. Seems to be good stuff.
 

nesw20

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I use GM EOS assembly lube on everything, of course it doesn't hurt that my old parts guy gave me a case of it. Any of the liquid assembly lubes work well. I would prefer them over straight motor oil, but a good 15w-40 would be better then a 5w-30 as far as staying where you put it obviously.

Real assembly lube is cheap and easily accessible why wouldn't you use it?

this. i wouldn't trust wd40 at all for it. need something that will stay in place until oil pressure hits it. i've used GM EOS and STP assembly lube. i think any purpose-formulated assembly lube will work well.
 

JBradley500

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I think it depends on how long you plan on letting the engine sit, or how long it takes you to build before you fire it up. Building an engine that could possibly sit for an extended period really benefits from real assembly lube, while an engine that will be built and fired up right away can use motor oil.
 

OutsideMachinist

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I was always taught to use assembly lube. It is so cheap and readily available I don't see why you wouldn't/shouldn't. Definitely don't use wd40 or anything similar to it.
 

Jere

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For oil pumps I use petroleum jelly ie Vaseline, some companies service manuals call for this specifically.

always act like the smallest lobster in the grocery store tank
 

Notgrownup

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I like the assembly lube as it sticks really Good a stays put....I used it when I swapped my cams on my Harley and it worked well....specially if it's gonna sit overnight, you want something sticky with viscosity that adheres to the surface well....
 

redwrench60

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Another vote for GM EOS. Real tacky and won't run off. It's what GM recomends for assembly and break in. GM dealers keep it in stock and it's not expensive.

Don't use WD-40.
 

DodgeMech

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Lucas oil additive. I wouldn't add it to my oil, but it's sticky and good for assembly lube, especially if the engine may sit for some time before being started

Also check your manual. some engines specify special camshaft lubricants

that lucas engine assembly stuff has the zinc in it(or at least the kind i used, anyway) needed for flat tappet cams...

stuff is good and green and sticky...older guys at work called it gorilla snot...haha
 

ADSR

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I was taught by a guy who must have a 1000 engine builds under his belt. He would only use one thing for bearing lube, it was moly grease. Moly on the cam too. Wrist pins and rings got 10w30.

Start it up, drive it 30km and drop the oil.
 

tdkkart

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I use fast orange hand cleaner with pumice. It keeps everything nice and clean


A year from now, some new guy is gonna come along and say "Is it OK to use Fast Orange as assembly lube?? My buddy said he saw it here??

And we can all blame you..........
 

wniemann

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I've used Elgin, Red Line, Isky Rev Lube, Clevite, some CRC Moly Engine Assembly Lube.

I like the Red Line on all the bearing surfaces, wrist pins, etc., Isky Rev Lube on all the cam lobes and lifters, and the CRC i've mainly only used on head studs as thats what my the guy who I bought the studs from said to use. Like others have said, for the few bucks a can it costs, theres not a good reason to not use it.

I usually run a high zinc oil for startup/break-in. I've used a quart of the cam break in oil from COMP too. I thought I read it was especially helpful for flat tappet cams.
 

2xs

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Lets not forget wd40 is really a solvent not a lubricant like everybody likes to think of it. Please keep it for fishing and not assembling engine parts.
 

Major Ramifications

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What is a series engine?

Does the engine you are putting together have a flat tappet camshaft or is it a roller? Flat tappet cams require cam lube on the camshaft lobes and break in oil with zinc like Joe Gibbs Break In oil.
 

Wrenches of Death

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Prime the oil pump before starting!

Damn good tip!

That's a tip that most people learn the hard way! Back when I was a teenager, a friend ruined the engine he rebuilt for his Studebaker Lark. It never picked up the oil.

I can't even begin to guess how many oil pumps I've pulled the end plate off of and packed with Vaseline over the last forty plus years. I've never had one fail to pickup almost immediately when started.

Come to think of it, I haven't heard anyone else mention doing that in a long long time....

WoD
 

tdkkart

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Lets not forget wd40 is really a solvent not a lubricant like everybody likes to think of it. Please keep it for fishing and not assembling engine parts.

Let's not forget that WD40 is not really good at anything, and is one of the last things I grab for any job.
 

Ohmthis

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I second the permatex ultra slick. I use it on mains, rods, cam, lifters, and rockers. I put engine oil on the bolt heads and piston rings and skirts. I've done more than two dozen engines and none have failed. Also never skip priming the oil pump!!!
 

C96

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WD-40…Lol…. f_ck that, might just as well use lighter fluid…:willy_nil
 

Ohmthis

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Another tip, get yourself a big garbage bag. Wrap the engine up if you need to stop working for awhile. Clean engines attract dirt and dust worse than anything I've seen. This will keep a lot of **** from getting on/in engine. Remember a clean engine is a happy engine.
 
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