Engine assembly lube?
- Thread starter brit road garage
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OP
brit road garage
Banned
I was kidding about the wd40 stuffs like water, the engine will sit for a couple weeks, the auto store has that white assembly lube so will probably go for that, iv just de-glazed the bores so they should hold oil well I'm not using a new camshaft or followers so not sure if I'll use the zinc stuff will probably just use the white assembly lube
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Fretters
Well-known member
I'm guessing most likely a Land Rover Series engine, which does also lead on to this advice being really useful:
as that will also help catch any bits which drop off the engine.
If you know someone with a lathe, way oil is another alternative. It's designed to be a bit tackier than normal oil so that it stays put.
Farmall450
Well-known member
OP
brit road garage
Banned
An a series engine was used in a wide variety of small economy vehicles in Britain in everything from a mini to a morris minor they are very tuneable mines getting a shorrock supercharger bolted to it gunna be badass
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PCO6
Well-known member
I always use WD40 when rebuilding engines. Spray it on a shop rag and wipe down your tools. It works great.
Zinc is required for all solid lifters , flat or radiused. It can save your cam as high zinc content oils are almost extinct now a days due to epa standards, hydraulic and roller lifters. If you are running solid lifters you should be using a high zinc content oil for your engine.
+1 on 2oolhound's comments on the need for zinc on the cam lobes and lifters, especially during break in period. For a while in the USA you could still get zinc in diesel oils, even after it had been removed from the gasoline engine oils. You may want to check on this in your country. You can buy small cans of the additive, usually called ZDDP, but that gets expensive. The racing oils usually still have ZDDP in them and I've heard that motorcycle oils still have zinc in them. Search around on www.bobistheoilguy.com and I am sure you can find more information there.
Kad 16valve head?
OP
brit road garage
Banned
Iv bought this before actually works a treat
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two cups of vasoline and about 1/4 cup of atf heat it up stir it together . done hundreds of engines and cam swaps never had an issue . i learned it from a drag racer in his 80's about 20 years ago plus like has been said before prime your oil system before start up . i have a distributor that i cut and modified to have a socket on top with no cam gear just to prime small block chevy's and 4.3 v6's
OP
brit road garage
Banned
OP
brit road garage
Banned
doesn't Vaseline eat rubber over time?
Wrenches of Death
Well-known member
Maybe, but most engines use neoprene or some type of silicone. Remember, gasoline attacks rubber too.
The amount of Vaseline required to pack the pump is probably insignificant compared to the crankcase capacity. Figure five or six quarts of oil to no more than a few ounces of Vaseline.
I've packed pumps with it at one time or another on probably just about block type of US automotive L6 and V8 from the late 1950's thru the 1990's and a mess of industrial engines. Chrysler, John Deere, IH, LeRoi, Buda, etc.
I've never had one not pick up prime quickly and never had any ill effects that I'm aware of. Another thing that I always try to do is to fill the oil filter with fresh oil before I install it. If it's one of the stupidly designed ones that mount upside down on on it's side, I try to at least partially fill it. I do this when I do oil changes too.
I wouldn't use anything thicker than Vaseline though. Many moons ago, a friend packed a pump in a Falcon, I think it was a 260 V8 with long fiber wheel bearing grease. It didn't pick up the oil. He gave me a call and I went over and took a look. It turned out that the oil pump drive shaft had twisted and sheared. If I remember right, It was was a rather skinny little hex shaft. Maybe a quarter of an inch across or something similar. It's been a long time.
WoD
Elvenhome21
Well-known member
Ive always used some form of grease during builds/rebuilds. Normally mystic moly based. if it was a chevy I made a priming tool and circulated oil for at least 2 minutes or until the rockers started getting oil. On engines I couldnt prime easily I just poured the oil on all the rockers and filled the filter. Never had an issue from startup wear.
I have used it on injector orings and a few other things for years, what ever they are made out of the haven't swelled or deteriorated that I can see.
^^^ this. Permatex 81950 is cheap, easy to find and seems to be very effective. I use it for a lot of things and its almost like glue.
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rockinacummins
Well-known member
Lubriplate!!!
I've used Slick 50 before on a late night when I couldn't get Lubriplate though.
Tried wd40 once too. Ended up pulling the main caps and rod caps back off to put said Slick 50 on there. Just seemed too risky. WD40 has it's place, but I second guessed it's place as an assembly lube. Better safe than sorry...
I've used Slick 50 before on a late night when I couldn't get Lubriplate though.
Tried wd40 once too. Ended up pulling the main caps and rod caps back off to put said Slick 50 on there. Just seemed too risky. WD40 has it's place, but I second guessed it's place as an assembly lube. Better safe than sorry...