Engine Building Tools

[Canadian Charlie]

What are the more finer engine building tools that any engine builder should have in his box. I'm trying to get a list together and maybe pick a few pieces up this week

Here is what I have so far

Torque wrench
Micrometers in metric
Slide calipers
Feeler gauges
Degree wheel
Ring pliers
Ring compressor



Is there anything else I should have?

 

[W-Cummins]

A dial bore gauge and a good strait edge would be nice

William...

 

[the intimidator]

a good quality 3/8 torque wrench would be on top of my list i would also include good quality assy lube may seem not important to have in your box but when you run out of the stuff you bought at napa and it's 11:30 at night and your halfway threw the build you'll be happy you have extra on hand i would also suggest compression testers and spark testers more for the final stages of your build but important others would be good quality sckrewdrivers phillips and flat head and a good multimeter and a test light or 2 for figuring out your wiring

a few more i thought of valve spring compressers a good puller set a decent tap and die set

 

[bmwpower]

thread chasers
gasket scraper
thread locker
speeder

 

[Big_John]

1 inch travel dial indicator with a magnetic stand
Cleaning brushes, be sure to get the long ones.
Ring end gap filer or grinder, get a powered one if you can.
Depth mics
6" Dial Calipers, better yet, get a Mitutoyo digital
Valve Spring tester
Valve spring height mics
Burett and stand
Harmonic balancer puller
Hydraulic press
Cam bearing installation tools
Since you have metric mics, I would get at least a one inch mic reading in English.

My suggestion is to buy a couple engine building/blueprinting books and look at the tools used there. Figure out how "deep" you want to get into to it and buy accordingly. For instance, some guys don't do any head assembly or cam bearing installation, leaving those tasks to the machine shop.

 

[imported_banzaitoyota]

arbor press
rotor bearing press adaptors


for the boinger engines:
1 piece ring compressors

 

[djjack]

dial indicator with bases
flywheel turner
piston ring gap grinder
plastigage
oil pressure gage
engraving tool
valve spring compressor
machinist dye
good light and magnifier
stethoscope
thermometer
box for the left over parts

 

[SuperKid]

- 3-Stone Hone
- Ball Hone
- Ridge Reamer
- Harmonic Dampner Installer/Remover
- Cam Bearing Installer/Remover
- Set of Gear Pullers
- 1/2" Torque Wrench
- 3/8" Torque Wrench
- Depth Gauge
- Feeler Gauge
- Set of Teloscoping Gauges
- Micrometers
- Plastiguage
- Assembly Lube (GM makes some of the best, check at a dealership for it)
- Set of Taps & Dies
- Valve Spring Compressor
- Straight Edge
- Piston Ring Compressor
- Piston Ring Installer/Remover
- Gasket Scraper
- Thread Locker (Red for stuff like Con-Rod & Main Cap bolts, and blue for stuff like Water Pump bolts)
- Numer Punch set (Great for marking which Con-Rod/Piston set came from which cylinder)
- 3/8" Speeder
- 1/2" Speeder

These are just a few tools needed. There are alot of tools needed to properly build an engine. Like others have said, pick up an engine building book and read it. Also, ask around for tips on building engines. If you ask the right people, you'll get some great tips. Good luck, and be sure to post up pictures of your engine builds!

 

[Elroy]

Your question is just a little "loaded" IMHO. Just what are you trying to accomplish? Are you in assembly mode only? Or are you looking to machine components? Elroy has posted a few links for your review:

http://www.serdi.com/cust/home.aspx

http://www.sunnen.com/index.jsp

And this link that offers several other specialize assembly tools:

http://www.precisionmeasure.com/catgindx.htm

The list becomes almost endless.

 

[EdNJ]

Besides what everyone else mentioned...

Torco MPZ engine assembly lube
Deadblow piston hammer
Nail files (for deburring rings after filing them)
I use a marker for rods and pistons,no numerical punches/stamps
Lots of paper towels and/or lint-free rags
WD40 (for cleaning cylinder walls after washing the block)
Acetone or denatured alcohol for cleaning cylinder walls right before piston installation,and head and block deck surfaces,bearing caps,etc.
Small plastic bins to hold your parts in an orderly fashion
Good engine stand
Large plastic bags (to cover the shortblock when you're done working on it for the day)
Silicone sealer (Toyota FIPG is my favorite)

 

[kartracer55]

It all depends on how "involved" you want to get. You have to know your limits. I wont touch certain jobs, I dont have the knowledge nor do I have the skill to do certain things.

You will need the appropriate gasket makers and sealers. You dont exactly NEED a ring gap grinder, if your careful, you can mount the ring between two pieces of wood in a vise and use a mini file to take them down. This is the method I use because I dont have the $$$ to throw around for luxeries like that. I noticed a Burett and stand was mentioned. You wont really need these unless your going to CC your heads... if your going this "in depth" you will want a port/polish kit as well.

There are plenty of tools, it all depends on how in depth your looking to get.

Have you ever done any sort of engine work before?


Jim

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Nobody, but no body has yet to mention an all important "tool", THE ENGINE STAND. Downright difficult to build without a decent one.

The quality and usefulness of many of the above mentioned tools varies greatly. For a ring compressor, I highly suggest the type that uses various sized bands and a racheting pliers to operate them, easiest and fastest to use.

http://www.kd-tools.com/850.htm

I don't know if KD sells additional bands to go with this tool, but I have the exact same tool, from MAC and bought all the extra bands, and can do anything from a Briggs and Stratton to a large diesel. This is also one of the few setups that work on aircraft engines also (if you are into that).

Matter of fact, KD Tools is a good place to look for many specialized engine tools.

If you are doing basic rebuilding, you will probably let the engine shop do some of the work such as head assembly, and cam bearing installation, freeze plug installation and such.

For disassembling don't forget the ridge cutter.

Charles

 

[SuperKid]

Nobody, but no body has yet to mention an all important "tool", THE ENGINE STAND. Downright difficult to build without a decent one.

EdNJ mentioned the engine stand.

Besides, if you're strong enough, you can just hold the engine in one hand, and work on it with the other.

 

[kartracer55]

EdNJ mentioned the engine stand.

Besides, if you're strong enough, you can just hold the engine in one hand, and work on it with the other.

Chuck Norris can


Ive never use the plier type of ring compressor. My personal compressor is a steel band with a spring aroudn it that I can wind up, but its also got a ratchet "tab" on it, which some dont. I usually use my 1/4 breaker bar or a ratchet with an extension, as the square is 1/4. My friend works for a machine shop and they have a full range of the machined aluminum ones that sit rest on the deck and alloy you to simplu shove the piston down into the cylinder. Kind of hard to explain, but I think you guys might know what IM talking about. I used one when I did a bank on his 383 and it made life SOOOO much easier, but they seem to take a little more "assistance" than the steel band style that I use.


Jim

 

[EdNJ]

Yup,I mentioned engine stands,own at least 5 of them

I have that plier + band type ring compressor too,but was having problems compressing the rings tightly enough. I might have used the incorrect band though (probably a band that doesn't come with the kit aargh). It's not a bad tool,some builders swear by it and I just haven't had luck with it. I use the "windup" style compressor that I believe Jim was describing.

You dont exactly NEED a ring gap grinder, if your careful, you can mount the ring between two pieces of wood in a vise and use a mini file to take them down. This is the method I use because I dont have the $$$ to throw around for luxeries like that.

Ring grinders aren't that expensive,you can buy them for around $40 mail order. I stopped using ring grinders anyway,broke the wheel I now use a Dremel mounted on a vise (then nail files or very fine sandpaper). This isn't a technique someone with inexperience should do,I can see someone grinding way too much material this way.

 

[kartracer55]

Yeah I use these really fine single cut needle files for when I need to fit rings... it takes a little while but it pretty much eliminates filing down too much if you just stop and take your time to check them every once in a while. How vital are the really? Ive never used one, always done it the "ghetto" style and use a needle file. I havent had an engine fail, but am I harming anything? Im bankin that you know more than I do.


These are the aluminum ones I was talking about http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...goryId=26839&parentCategoryId=10783&langId=-1

Jim

 

[JeeperAz]

Silicone sealer (Toyota FIPG is my favorite)

Toyota FIPG is awesome stuff. It's pricey though. I've heard Yamaha's gasket matieral is the same thing and it's cheaper. Google 'Yamabond'.

 

[Canadian Charlie]

Well I have quite the few engine builing tools and decided that I might want to own a few more gems so yesterday I ordered a few

Crankshaft Socket
TDC Top Plate And Stop
Carb Stand
Oil Pump Primer
Magnetic Deck Bridge
Dial Indicator
Micrometers (in SAE)

 

[kartracer55]

Ever going to build an engine?

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Yup,I mentioned engine stands,own at least 5 of them

I have that plier + band type ring compressor too,but was having problems compressing the rings tightly enough. I might have used the incorrect band though (probably a band that doesn't come with the kit aargh). It's not a bad tool,some builders swear by it and I just haven't had luck with it. I use the "windup" style compressor that I believe Jim was describing.

Sorry I missed the engine stand when you mentioned, I tried to look back thru all of the posts quickly, too quick.

I have the band type because it works on aircraft engines, and that is what I am most likely to work on. I did buy every possible band for it and there are about ten different ones. I also have a type that is corrugated metal (fewer points of contact with the ring, less friction, and more shoulder to set on the top of the block) and it can be "hooked" for the right size and then an overcenter lever compresses it. A little cumbersome but works well.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=11810&group_ID=1593

Charles

 

[imported_banzaitoyota]

Real Engines dont have pistons or piston rings..


Yeah going ahead and rewrite your silly rule books everytime the ROTARY Dominates the class. Bunch os skaredy cats, afraid of the measly 1.3L Wonder.

 

[eschoendorff]

Real Engines dont have pistons or piston rings..


Yeah going ahead and rewrite your silly rule books everytime the ROTARY Dominates the class. Bunch os skaredy cats, afraid of the measly 1.3L Wonder.

1.3L wonder???? The 505 hp LS7 blows that thing away in power AND fuel economy. The rotary is more trouble than it's worth. And the evidence is in simple economics. Rotary-powered cars simply don't out-sell traditional reciprocating piston driven cars. Just how many RX-8s do you see on the road? How many old RX-7s????? They're neat old cars, but they hardly dominate.

Flame suit on.

 

[kartracer55]

Yeah but piston engines dont need apex seals every 30k




Hahahaha

 

[Canadian Charlie]

I'm in the middle of building one now and gaining a little more experience as time grows. Nice to have them as I go along and nice to have them for future use

 

[imported_banzaitoyota]

Yeah but piston engines dont need apex seals every 30k




Hahahaha

Thats funny, my 86 had 249K+ when I fnally had to tear it down, so much misinformation you have

 

[Jared]

What are the advantages to a rotary engine? from what i no it seems like they burn way morefuel and dont seem to last that long.

 

[l_bilyk]

Real Engines dont have pistons or piston rings..


Yeah going ahead and rewrite your silly rule books everytime the ROTARY Dominates the class. Bunch os skaredy cats, afraid of the measly 1.3L Wonder.

Yeah... that'll be the day .....

 

[53sled]

If you calculate actual displacement for a rotary, they are closer to 2.6L, and the renesis rx8 motor is better about oil consumption and better injection techniques cured the rich carb problem from earlier versions.

now, for engine building tools, start with a catalog and work backwards

Its never enough

 

[imported_banzaitoyota]

Yeah... that'll be the day .....

Already happened fiberglass boy.

Th NHRA keeps adding wieght to the roataries every season when we start Winning. After MAZDA Dominated LeMans, The porshe set couldnt stand it and petitioned succesfully to ban the rotary.

 

[krooser]

Boring bar, crank grinder, Sunnen hone......

 

[JohnZ]

Plastic drip tray that fits on your engine stand - catches all the miscellaneous drippings (and cushions/contains small parts you drop).

 

[wrigh003]

What are the advantages to a rotary engine? from what i no it seems like they burn way morefuel and dont seem to last that long.

There really aren't any. Just kidding, rotorheads. I started on the revitalization of a 1982 RX7 a while back, and am about finished iwth the "parts collecting" stage of the process, and have been learning some as I go. Here's the quick and dirty:

Advantages:

• In theory, there are two power strokes per combustion chamber per rotation of the crankshaft, so there's that (hence the 2.4/2.6L being a more reasonable comparison than 1.2/1.3L), and there are fewer moving parts.
  
• The exhaust note is unique and different, and that's minor, but it's got character.
  
• Since you don't have to worry about stuff like valve float, you can rev stupidly high in a racing application, and high-for-the-era on the street. My 1982 has seen 8k plus RPM, and it loved it. What else could do that in 1982?
  
• It's different.
  
• Given proper attention and care, non-turbo RX7s are pretty reliable. Seriously. There's a ton of older (1983 back) ones that have the original 12a still in them, still running well.
  

Disadvantages include:

• Heat, and lots of it. Cooling is a serious concern, and if you overheat it, it's toast, since overheated parts warp, and warped parts don't seal. The 3rd-gen was a great car, but that **** sheetmetal (with no real grille in front) didn't help when a tiny little engine bay contained a heat-belching motor and two turbos helping things along. No wonder people overheated them/ blew them up (hindsight being 20/20). All that heat also works a number on vacuum hoses.
  
• Rotaries tend to flood when run for a brief time and then shut off-makes them not the best "hey lemme run down the block to the store real quick" car.
  
• Even though all the basic principles are the same, people still think of the engine as "magic spinning triangles" or something, and as such don't really bother to try and learn about it. Also, up until the RX-8 came out, the rotary engine was pretty much a historical oddity for a few years there. Might have trouble finding a mechanic, in other words.

So, I have a 1982 RX7 GSL. It's got a 12a rotary in it that may or may not have been worked over once in the past. Don't know, and neither did the guy I bought it from. It's a driveable project, but currently pretty far from a daily driver. All that said, even though I have a good bit of money in rotary specific parts and pieces right now, if this motor pops or doesn't want to act right one day, this car will be getting a V8. They're cheap, they fit, and parts are literally everywhere. I think I can make it work, though.