Engine cylinder ridge reamer?

[Magnum440d100]

I’ve been using an old Lisle but it’s just about worn out. It has to be 20+ years old and probably has done a couple/few dozen motors.

I went to use it on my 318 dodge, and it just would not bite. I remember having issues with it last time I used it, and I told myself to upgrade at that time.

What are you guys using?

I’m debating on getting another Lisle since this one lasted a VERY long time and I got it used back then! But if you guys have a better product, I’m all ears!

Thanks in advance!

 

[bob15]

The last reamer I bought was a Snap On. They were the only one I could find that would do a 4.25" bore on a JD B tractor. I have zero complaints with it. I ordered it from Snappy and it was at my house in less than a week and did the job just fine.....

 

[jim faston]

Is it just that the cutter is worn out? They sell replacements for the currently available model, e.g.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016ZVZ4I/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[larry_g]

X2 on replace the cutter blade or have it sharpened if you cannot sharpen it yourself.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[sberry]

Agree, how many engines you gonna do? We used to have one in reman almost constant, I can't even remember the last engine I did and it was old equipment most don't have.

 

[rsanter]

A ridge reamer is only used when you plan to reuse the pistons as they eliminate the chance of damaging the ring grooves.
If you are doing a full rebuild you don’t need a ridge reamer.

Other than that if you do want to use one or do need one sharpen or replace the blades

 

[MShaw]

"If you are doing a full rebuild you don’t need a ridge reamer."
Only if you rebore it. The ridge will do even more damage to new pistons.

 

[SGKent]

"If you are doing a full rebuild you don’t need a ridge reamer."
Only if you rebore it. The ridge will do even more damage to new pistons.

I think what he is saying is that if there is a ridge it should be bored to the next over size. During the 70's and 80's I worked in a machine shop where we rebuilt fleet engines, street engines, daily drivers, and even Cosworth Indy engines. Never one in thousands of engines did we use a ridge reamer. If the ridge is weak you make a couple passes with a stone hone (Sunnen) to even the cylinder out and the old pistons can be used if the owner wants that. If there is enough of a ridge to ream then you bore to the next oversize. If the block has been over bored too much you either replace it or sleeve it depending on its use and value.

 

[jsmeece]

I think what he is saying is that if there is a ridge it should be bored to the next over size. During the 70's and 80's I worked in a machine shop where we rebuilt fleet engines, street engines, daily drivers, and even Cosworth Indy engines. Never one in thousands of engines did we use a ridge reamer. If the ridge is weak you make a couple passes with a stone hone (Sunnen) to even the cylinder out and the old pistons can be used if the owner wants that. If there is enough of a ridge to ream then you bore to the next oversize. If the block has been over bored too much you either replace it or sleeve it depending on its use and value.

Just because you guys did this does not mean that was the correct way. I was taught in the late 1980s, if you can feel the ridge with your finger nail use a ridge reamer.

 

[bob15]

Just because you guys did this does not mean that was the correct way. I was taught in the late 1980s, if you can feel the ridge with your finger nail use a ridge reamer.

▲▲▲▲▲▲
This is what I learned, only it was from someone building engines in the early 60's.


Could be that it was cheaper in that machine shop to punch an engine out rather than using a ridge reamer. With that being said, for me, punching out an engine shortens its life span.

 

[BDT/NWMN]

Not every engine that should be completely pulled down and rebuilt gets this royal treatment. Depending of the age and value of the machine; work orders to "Repair To Run" have been written for decades.. Dead compression on a single cylinder can result in using a ridge reamer and cylinder hone on that single cylinder; without removing the engine from the machine. Ridge reamers do have their place on certain jobs.

 

[Magnum440d100]

Thanks for the tips/advice guys.

The pistons will be reused, hence why I want to remove the ridge, as to not damage anything.

The cylinders are still in decent shape (no pun intended) so a hone and rering will be sufficient. The ridges are <0.01” but I can catch my fingernail on them.

This is a “budget” rebuild. Meaning a hone/rering and main/rod bearings if needed. The motor ran great, though I only tore it down to replace head gaskets, and freeze plugs. Had I not removed the heads, I would not have seen the scores/ridges...

Every motor I have ever torn down has had the ridge removed prior to pulling the pistons if there was a ridge. Even if I have no plans on reusing the pistons in the motor, I have found that having good reusable pistons on hand has come in handy several times when only 1 or 2 pistons need replacing (my 1,000,000 mile 429 comes to mind. Has had one piston replaced and one cylinder re ringed back in the 90’s and is still shittin and gettin)

My current ridge reamer has been tossed. It no longer would bite, or stay square in the bore. Plus the hex drive portion was damn near rounded from wear. When I say it was worn out, it was worn OUT. I did a couple/few dozen motors with it, and I got it used. Who knows how many motors it has done before that.

 

[Magnum440d100]

Pic of offending motor...

 

[sberry]

I agree. I got one. There is a place for it but if I got something that worked or get it in economy would likely do that and put the difference in things likely to get more use. Just a thought, not sure how much new one cost.

 

[sberry]

Ya, I did a couple 3 of those back in the day. They made a lot of them for quite a long time.