Engine Hoist Recommendation
- Thread starter yinzer
- Start date
Uncle Buck
Banned
Very few made in the states these days prolly OTC, Snap-On, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, perhaps Lincoln, that is all I have for ya.
Major Ramifications
Well-known member
I was going to say maybe Lincoln, too. I know they USED to be made in America, but so were a lot of things.
If you must go with a hoist made overseas, the one I got from Advance Auto Parts is the best one I've seen yet. Hardware is nice and the proper size. Fit is good, too. It was a little more money, but at least I got instructions in English and all the right parts. It looks very similar to this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heav...tegoryZ63697QQihZ017QQitemZ270145875155QQrdZ1
I bought an HF crane on sale and had to take it back since parts were missing, the ram was shot and the parts that were there didn't fit!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heav...tegoryZ63697QQihZ017QQitemZ270145875155QQrdZ1
I bought an HF crane on sale and had to take it back since parts were missing, the ram was shot and the parts that were there didn't fit!
MAD
Well-known member
I have an imported Larin brand Engine hoist that has given me good service for six or seven years. I have only used it to replace a few engines and to pick up one big rock. The quality (fit, finish, welds, hardware, etc...) is definitely a step above the HF and traveling tool sale ones I have looked at. I also have a Larin floor jack that I have beat on for over 12 years and is still going strong. I believe Tractor Supply sells Larin now.
ZRX61
Well-known member
I have one of the Horrible Fright examples & it had no problem with a 460/C6 combo hanging off the end of it....
Uncle Buck
Banned
I really hate to speak well of anything that came from HF. However, I bought their regular 2Ton picker used from a friend about 15 years ago and I have never had a problem with it. I replaced all the bolts with better quality stuff and also replaced the hook and chain at the end of the boom I have used this thing like crazy for years with no complaints. Once I had an attack of stupid and on the 2 Ton setting attached the boom to the draw bar of a 656 IH farm tractor that had calcium filled tires, I positioned the lift saddle of an old Walker long frame service jack under the draw bar and between the two of them actually lifted the rear wheels of the tractor off of the ground by a good 2 inches (I am not going into why I did this) I still have both and no worse for wear. So I have had nothing but great luck with my old HF picker, 15 years and counting to be exact! Mine also put a 440 Mopar engine in the bro in laws 69 Super Bee without a hitch.
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JB740i
Well-known member
what are calcium filled tires?
Uncle Buck
Banned
Here ya go.
(I did not author this, but rather borrowed it from another web site.)
There are two methods of obtaining sufficient rear wheel weight. The first is the time-honored tradition of filling the rear wheels with Calcium Chloride solution. This is a non-freezing liquid solution. By putting it inside your inner-tube, the weight is carried as low as possible which is good for the tractor, traction and safety. Unfortunately, once you fill the rear tires, you must watch carefully for leaks and attend to them immediately. I once spilled a small amount on the painted bumper of my truck when loading a leaking rear wheel. It was completely rusted in two-days. When this solution comes in direct contact with metal, a highly destructive process begins immediately and if left unattended, will destroy rims, hubs and whatever else it touches very quickly. Because of this and more serious safety concerns, filling and caring for your wheels is a job for your tire store unless you have a backhoe or very large loader (on a separate tractor). Lifting a filled wheel into your pickup bed is an operation that when done without equipment is reminiscent of building the pyramids. The only safe way to deal with a tire that is filled is to leave it on the tractor and have your tire company bring their rig out. They will drain it, remove and fix the tire, and refill it. Surprisingly it costs only a little extra to have them come out and it could save you some real headaches. If you have ever seen a large filled tire fall over, it will make the above believable to you.
The second way to get necessary weight on the rear wheels is through the use of cast-iron wheel weights. These come in two styles, one piece and multi-piece. A one piece wheel weight is simply a large round piece of cast iron that will bolt to the rim. On some machines you can add more than one to each side to gain even more weight. The real disadvantage of one-piece wheel weights is that they are heavy and unwieldy and thus difficult to mount and unmount. To overcome this problem, manufacturers cast wheel weights in many smaller sections or wedges that when installed would all add up to even more weight than a one-piece weight but individually were not as heavy. Generally it is easier to find one-piece that will fit your rims since they don't necessarily have to have been made specifically for your tractor to fit. With multi-piece weights, you are best off locating original equipment weights.
PAToyota
Well-known member
I too have had reasonable performance from my HF hoist - but I have to admit that I haven't taxed it too far yet. Prior to pulling the 6.5TD from my Chevy, I plan to go over it and upgrade the bolts and possibly reinforce it a bit as HHolmberg suggests...
bluesman2a
Well-known member
One suggestion, regardless of WHAT lift you get, make sure ALL the rollers are steerable casters. I've had both kinds (some with straight rollers on the legs, some with all wheel steering), and the ones you can adjust from any position are MUCH easier to use.
89Vette
Well-known member
I will be buying an engine hoist in the next couple months and am considering a HF foldable one, the price is sure attractive when it is on sale. I have seen comments about the ram being defective right out of the box to some here, no issues at all. Figuring people that have issues bark louder than those that didn't, I figure it is probably 90/10 getting a good one.
I have one problem with the HF unit though: at some point either I will be under it or maybe just my feet or knees and what if it fails then? Maybe I am just getting more paranoid about safety as I get older, but possibly this is one of those things I will pay more for to get the security I want. I don't see the point in changing the bolts, chains etc, that just makes me think the welds might then be the issue and I should have bought a sturdier/safer one to begin with.
I know, you should never get under the item you are lifting, but reaching under it will happen. Not to mention the swinging going on when you are moving it around.
I have one problem with the HF unit though: at some point either I will be under it or maybe just my feet or knees and what if it fails then? Maybe I am just getting more paranoid about safety as I get older, but possibly this is one of those things I will pay more for to get the security I want. I don't see the point in changing the bolts, chains etc, that just makes me think the welds might then be the issue and I should have bought a sturdier/safer one to begin with.
I know, you should never get under the item you are lifting, but reaching under it will happen. Not to mention the swinging going on when you are moving it around.
JB740i
Well-known member
Uncle Buck
Banned
While I have never had any problems with my old HF hoist I would add a few more comments. (1) As you already indicated I have never trusted it enough to put myself, or really any body part under anything attached to the lift arm while in use.
(2) I think the reason I have had such good luck with my old HF hoist is I do not have the fold up model.
(3) Most important, I would really encourage you to change any bolts, nuts, hook and chain on this as it is the weakest point of the picker. The hdw that comes with these is guaranteed first rate crapola! I replaced mine with grade 8 hdw and CM brand chain and lift hook. I have had no weld quality issues, and I have no reason to doubt weld quality, but to each his own. Good luck.
Rory Bellows
Well-known member
I too have the HF foldable 2 ton hoist. I bought it on sale + 20 % coupon best deal around. I pulled my engine, auto ****** and transfer case without incident. Worked flawlessy.
The best part is the footprint is relatively small. One note of caution put a bungee cord around the legs when folded up! The legs can and will fall down or back!
I bought it intially because renting one for the day would of been around $35. I paid about $135. Figure two days rent. One to pull and one to install after engine rebuilt (sometime later). I figure if I ever sell it I could easily get around $100 for it and be ahead in the game.
BTW, the first one I got had a bend in the base and the leg couldn't go in. Instead of bending/banging it out I returned it and got another without question or even inspection. HF is hit and miss out of the box. If it is good out of the box chances are it'll last. HF only has a handful of good tools and their engine hoist is one of them.
John
The best part is the footprint is relatively small. One note of caution put a bungee cord around the legs when folded up! The legs can and will fall down or back!
I bought it intially because renting one for the day would of been around $35. I paid about $135. Figure two days rent. One to pull and one to install after engine rebuilt (sometime later). I figure if I ever sell it I could easily get around $100 for it and be ahead in the game.
BTW, the first one I got had a bend in the base and the leg couldn't go in. Instead of bending/banging it out I returned it and got another without question or even inspection. HF is hit and miss out of the box. If it is good out of the box chances are it'll last. HF only has a handful of good tools and their engine hoist is one of them.
John