Engine load leveler question?

[epmills]

We have multiple levelers at the dealer I work at, and it certainly makes installing engines A LOT easier. Is there a reason more shops do not use load levelers when pulling/installing engines? Its not like its an expensive item.
I have been noticing on a lot of TV shows that none of them use a leveler. Chains, straps, or intake adapters to lift from, but no levelers. Even on the show "chasing classic cars," they used straps to pull an engine from a incredibly valuable Ferrari. I know straps work, but why not use the right tool for the job, opinions? Do you use them at home or work?

 

[Carla]

Well, for whatever its worth, I personally use, and recommend, the somewhat expensive 'Owatonna' make of load-leveller, which uses a load chain carried over a pocketted 'load sprocket' (like that of a spur-geared chain-fall), with the load sprocket revolved by a worm and worm gear system.

The worm is brought out to a hex, to be driven for 'fine adjustment' by a wrench.

The higher first-cost of the 'Owatonna' load-leveller is well justified as a work safety issue, in my opinion. (Improvised hoisting methods are just too much risk of injury to workers)

I don't know whether that pattern is made by any other firm.

I have seen shop-made ones which used a #80 (I think) roller chain, with an 'off the shelf' small dia. chain sprocket, and 'off the shelf' Boston worm and worm gear components, in a shop-fabricated frame or housing. The ones I've seem seemed to work well, but took quite a bit of working time to build. An essential detail of this unit was the 'chain retainer', which curved over the sprocket in such a way as to positively inhibit the chain from 'jumping a tooth' of the sprocket, under asymmetrical loadings.

cheers

Carla

 

[Fcvapor05]

I personally have never used one- the times I've tried, the cherry picker I was using didn't go high enough for the engine and trans to clear the core support if the 6" height of the load leveler was added to the length of the sling.

 

[CJM8515]

Laugh if you want but an old seat belt strap will easily hold a 350 no problem.

 

[bobcatdan]

Never saw a reason for one. Lift, check and adjust a couple times and I can lift an engine pretty damn level.

 

[JKady]

They're a nice idea and I'd probably use one at home but as it is at work I usually end up shortening the chain on every engine hoist I've used inlcuding my own to allow more clearance above the picker and below the engine. Gets me out of pulling the hood off the car about 90% of the time.

And in RWD cars I usually get the engine close enough to set on its mounts and worry about the final line up from underneath using pole jacks to manipulate the engine/trans into place.

 

[sberry]

You just don't always need it, just more stuff in the way.

 

[signcrafter]

You don't always need one, but for the times you do they are super handy. I have the HF one and like it, the higher rated one. It's nice for the times when you have to tilt the engine to clear the fire wall and then level it back out as you are dropping it in.

 

[Ign]

Well, for whatever its worth, I personally use, and recommend, the somewhat expensive 'Owatonna' make of load-leveller, which uses a load chain carried over a pocketted 'load sprocket' (like that of a spur-geared chain-fall), with the load sprocket revolved by a worm and worm gear system.

The worm is brought out to a hex, to be driven for 'fine adjustment' by a wrench.

The higher first-cost of the 'Owatonna' load-leveller is well justified as a work safety issue, in my opinion. (Improvised hoisting methods are just too much risk of injury to workers)

I don't know whether that pattern is made by any other firm.

I have seen shop-made ones which used a #80 (I think) roller chain, with an 'off the shelf' small dia. chain sprocket, and 'off the shelf' Boston worm and worm gear components, in a shop-fabricated frame or housing. The ones I've seem seemed to work well, but took quite a bit of working time to build. An essential detail of this unit was the 'chain retainer', which curved over the sprocket in such a way as to positively inhibit the chain from 'jumping a tooth' of the sprocket, under asymmetrical loadings.

cheers

Carla

Sounds like OTC load rotor. But all these things eat up a ton of Z space.

 

[Verg]

I use a load leveler on almost every engine removal and install. Just did a Subaru outback ej25 this weekend; nothing like achieving the perfect angle of dangle.

 

[Hiball]

I really only use mine if the Firewall/Radiator support dictates that I need to enter at angle to line up with Trans etc.. Albeit Nice, You better take some measurements because they add a substantial amount of distance. I also recommend keeping the Threads Lubed..

 

[joe_padavano]

Sounds like OTC load rotor. But all these things eat up a ton of Z space.

I have not had that problem. You need chains to the block anyway. If you adjust the chains on the leveler correctly, little additional height is required. As others have noted, I've found a leveler to be a real time saver, especially for single-person engine installs. The ability to tilt the combined engine and trans really helps with clearing the core support (it also makes it really easy to wash the floor down with ATF, but that's a different issue...)

I also have the heavy duty HF version and have had no problems using it to lift Olds V8s with TH400s and 200-4Rs attached.

 

[Schurkey]

I have a chain, two short bolts, and a long bolt with two washers and a nut. Been working well for me for thirty years.

 

[crewchief888]

Well, for whatever its worth, I personally use, and recommend, the somewhat expensive 'Owatonna' make of load-leveller, which uses a load chain carried over a pocketted 'load sprocket' (like that of a spur-geared chain-fall), with the load sprocket revolved by a worm and worm gear system.

The worm is brought out to a hex, to be driven for 'fine adjustment' by a wrench.

The higher first-cost of the 'Owatonna' load-leveller is well justified as a work safety issue, in my opinion. (Improvised hoisting methods are just too much risk of injury to workers)

I don't know whether that pattern is made by any other firm.

Carla

the last (heavy eq) dealer i worked for used this type. seems like they were badged as "load rotor".

many times a transmission had to be tilted side to side between the frame rails to remove easier.
we have one on each of the overhead cranes, and all the service trucks had one as well.

using one with a cherry picker type hoist probably wouldnt work too well due to the limited lift of the cherry picker.

 

[ttpete]

I have a chain, two short bolts, and a long bolt with two washers and a nut. Been working well for me for thirty years.

As long as it's in your own garage, it's OK. I personally won't use that type of stuff. It's usually low tensile hardware store chain and any old bolts found in the junk box.

Before I retired, we went through the shop and all of the mechanic's toolboxes and confiscated all of the cobbled up slings, then issued everyone certified commercial made adjustable chain slings.

 

[lametec]

I use an Oberg Tilt Lift.

Oberg picture

 

[bwringer]

Not sure how you'd do much without one, unless you have some stout, trustworthy assistants or you only work on old RWD vehicles. Some FWD cars require quite a large change in angle as you raise or lower.

 

[Carla]

I use an Oberg Tilt Lift.

If you use one of those, be very careful with it.

The current production version is actually made in China, and they use a very soft mild steel for the 'swinging stop' part which engages the slots in the slotted wheel on the wire rope drum.

A good friend of mine very nearly lost a hand when fitting an engine in a pre-war Plymouth car. In that application, the engine had to be tilted to a rather extreme angle to replace it without removing the grille shell. When he had the engine nearly in place, the 'swinging stop' part failed, allowing the engine to swing freely, very suddenly.

I have that 'load tilter' here, and will 'get around to' making up a replacement stop part of good steel, one of these days.

My friend Bob still has that his hand, and all its fingers, cos he had extremely fast reflexes, he only had scrapes and bruises on some finger-tips.

The 'moral of the story', I suppose, is that if you have one of the old 'real' American made ones, it will be safe to use, but with the current Chinese-made version, its prudent to make and fit a new 'stop' part from good steel, before someone is injured.

Reason it out.......with a heavy engine tilted to a steep angle, there is a lot of loading on a very small area of steel, in that design, and failure of the steel of that part could cause very severe injury....loss of a hand, even a few fingers, is a terrible tragedy for the victim......the little part which failed may have been an unusual defective, but thats too great a chance to take.

Edited.........it wouldn't have been polite for me to ask Bob whether he may or may not have had a 'certain class of reaction' to that sudden engine drop, which one mayn't describe on a 'family-friendly' internet board......but I can tell you that he was quite seriously emotionally traumatised.....if you've not had such an experience, but grateful for your 'good fortune'.......... : )

cheers

Carla

 

[Deskmechanic]

I have an old Snap-on branded one of those without the stop, it just has the cable wrapped twice around the pulley so that the tension of the cable itself acts as a brake.

If you use one of those, be very careful with it.

The current production version is actually made in China, and they use a very soft mild steel for the 'swinging stop' part which engages the slots in the slotted wheel on the wire rope drum.



cheers

Carla

 

[azhatchback]

I have always used a load leveler. I just bought an adapter plate for the intake and going to try it in the next week or two and see what I like better. I yank the engine on my mustang a few times a year and it's really the only car I do major work on so I am sure for different applications some things may work better than others.

 

[ttpete]

I have an old Snap-on branded one of those without the stop, it just has the cable wrapped twice around the pulley so that the tension of the cable itself acts as a brake.

I used one of those many years ago. It doesn't really have a pulley, just a grooved slot. The cable crosses itself and locks when tension is applied. It's very reliable and safe.

I don't really like the design of the Oberg. I have an OTC load-rotor that works very well and is safe.

 

[BFHtime]

I just bought one about a month ago. I am doing an engine swap and pulled the engine with the transmission. Really a complete drivetrain swap is what I am doing axles to engine and more. The engine leveler was necessary to pull the engine from the top. Otherwise I would have had to drop the front subframe. I was able to pull the engine from the top with the still on jack stands. I lowered the car a bit during the process of the pulling the engine, but I did not have to. I was surprised that there was not one in the shop. I ordered it from NAPA. I don't remember the price, but I will check it tomorrow. The receipt is in my tool box. I was using straps and chains at first but after a couple adjustments, I knew the load leveler would make life easier and most importantly save me time. I would not pull and engine without one. They are not expensive and save time, IMO that makes for a great tool.

 

[Schurkey]

I have a chain, two short bolts, and a long bolt with two washers and a nut. Been working well for me for thirty years.

As long as it's in your own garage, it's OK. I personally won't use that type of stuff. It's usually low tensile hardware store chain and any old bolts found in the junk box.

Before I retired, we went through the shop and all of the mechanic's toolboxes and confiscated all of the cobbled up slings, then issued everyone certified commercial made adjustable chain slings.

In an OSHA-regulated environment, I'd be careful of home-made slings, too.

If you use one of those, be very careful with it.

The current production version is actually made in China, and they use a very soft mild steel for the 'swinging stop' part which engages the slots in the slotted wheel on the wire rope drum.

A good friend of mine very nearly lost a hand when fitting an engine in a pre-war Plymouth car. In that application, the engine had to be tilted to a rather extreme angle to replace it without removing the grille shell. When he had the engine nearly in place, the 'swinging stop' part failed, allowing the engine to swing freely, very suddenly.

The Communist Chinese can screw-up anything; but it is always in collusion with the Communist Collaborators here in America that the product is sold to the general public.

I'm far happier with my 3/8 American "DOT" chain and Grade 8 bolts with hardened washers and nut, than I would be with some **** Chinese load-leveler made from hateful soft steel and poor engineering.

 

[Carla]

The Communist Chinese can screw-up anything; but it is always in collusion with the Communist Collaborators here in America that the product is sold to the general public.

I'm far happier with my 3/8 American "DOT" chain and Grade 8 bolts with hardened washers and nut, than I would be with some **** Chinese load-leveler made from hateful soft steel and poor engineering.

Concur

cheers

Carla

 

[shaggymutt1]

Who needs a leveler if you can use a chain? I can come in at an angle with a chain also!