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engine run stand

projectPONY

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Sep 25, 2008
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Dallas, TX
hello guys, haven't had much time to visit here lately but this forum was the first one I thought of when a question arose.

I'd like to build an engine run stand. while I know that I can purchase one where is the fun in that? besides, the least expensive one that has interested me is almost $900. I figure I can probably build one for a third of that.

anyway, a member of another forum that I frequent came up with his own design and posted it on the forum but leaves a lot of the details out, most importantly the wall thickness of the square tubing he is using. here is a pic of his almost finished product.

mochup.jpg


my question is this. the stringers that run from the front of the frame to the rear are 40" in his plans but I will be lengthening them to 44". what wall thickness do you guys think the 2"x2" tubing should be? I'm mostly concerned about the strength of the front to rear stringers since I believe these are the ones that will carry all the load being that they will have the verticals that the motor mounts will bolt to. the engine is a Ford 302 that weighs in at about 450-500lbs in full trim.

any help will be highly appreciated.
 
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MBfreak

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Linkoping , Sweden
The stand as displayed may work fine for all I know.
However, I would most definitely install cross brazing to create at least one triangulated part in the x, y adn z direction. I think this is more important that wall thickness and has the potential to reduce the weight of the assembly.

Best regards

Ola
 

Mmfh

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Oct 8, 2011
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Portland Oregon
You could go as heavy as you want, but I would think that a .060 or .090" wall would work just fine. Just build it a little heavier as was stated above for holding the engine. Small block Fords are fairly lite so it won't take much.

Good Luck!

Mm
 

donny

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Jan 8, 2012
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Arizona
I just completed this 'run stand'...it is all 16 gauge tubing except for the obvious areas that allows the deal to be clamped together...1 1/2 strap..some 1 inch pipe and some 1/2 or 3/8's was used for the upper/lower mount area..used a variety of different tubing sizes..seems to work fine...D
photobucket-5150-1326156627812.jpg
 

donny

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Jan 8, 2012
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Arizona
I`ve always wanted to do one of these could you post up the plans?

No plans...bought an armload of tubing, hung the motor/bh from the picker and went at it...the base is 4 feet x 27 1/2 inches.the base rectangle is made out of 1 1/2 square tubing..the wheels are HF deals..330lbs rating..I would buy better wheels if building another but these work. You can see the motor is high...I am old and do not like to bend over..screwing with the carb or adjusting valves is a breeze..The uprights supporting the front MM are 24 inches long..the floor to the top of the carb is approx 4 feet.lmk if you need any other info from mine...Looked over the net and came up with this guy...D
stand1.jpg
 
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projectPONY

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Dallas, TX
Well, I think I might of just over killed it. After the lack of responses I was growing impatient and went out and bought the tubing. I had the intention of buying 14 gauge but walked out with 1/8" instead. That's about 11gauge, correct? I was trying to keep this thing light but now I think its gonna be really heavy.
 
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projectPONY

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I purchased these plans off ebay. They are very detailed and I got a lot more than I expected for the $8.50 price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230590301574?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

have you built it yet? will it really fold up like that?

this is more of what I'm shooting for. I will be making some changes to the one I originally posted. this one is made of rectangular tubing but I'm sure the shape of it has little to do with the final outcome.

ER20004.jpg
 

Omphaloskeptic

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Ultima Ratio, Wa.
LAROKE, thanks for the Ebay ad; now I can add one more project to my loooong list. lol
Seriously, a clean design that collapses when not in use is a great idea for the home hobbyist. Thanks again for posting. Got any pics of the test stand you made from the plans? Any suggestions for mods/improvements on that design?

O.P., you might want to seriously consider the plans posted by LAROKE.
 

LAROKE

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My stand, so far, only consists of the plans I purchased and a few beers and cigars thinkin' on it some. I hope to start soon. I want it to handle both the nailhead I just got and my Jimmy 302 and Chevy stovebolt engines.

It does fold up but it's more involved than pulling a pin and folding like the popular engine stands and hoists. You have to pull a few bolts and separate different components to stack in an upright position from what I see on the drawings.
 

NUTTSGT

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Well, I think I might of just over killed it. After the lack of responses I was growing impatient and went out and bought the tubing. I had the intention of buying 14 gauge but walked out with 1/8" instead. That's about 11gauge, correct? I was trying to keep this thing light but now I think its gonna be really heavy.

I think I would have used .125 wall to build it also. I'd rather go slightly over kill that have the thing come apart while the engine is running and screw up an oil pan. The cost of that one oil pan, especially aftermarket, will easily justify the added expense of the heavier material.

:thumbup:
 
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projectPONY

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Dallas, TX
I think I would have used .125 wall to build it also. I'd rather go slightly over kill that have the thing come apart while the engine is running and screw up an oil pan. The cost of that one oil pan, especially aftermarket, will easily justify the added expense of the heavier material.

:thumbup:

yeah, I guess you're right. I'll be stockpiling material for the next few weeks. once the build gets underway I'll be sure to post some pics.
 
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srmofo

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Out of curiosity, do you guys strap those things down? And how? I dont see any loops on the rigs at all.

I would think even the moderate torque engine would flip that little stand with even the slightest blip of the throttle
 

ptschram

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Churubusco, IN
Out of curiosity, do you guys strap those things down? And how? I dont see any loops on the rigs at all.

I would think even the moderate torque engine would flip that little stand with even the slightest blip of the throttle

I once saw an engine running loose in the back of a pick-up truck. SBC.

Gas can, battery and jumper cables. Yep, rednecks at their finest.

Didn't flip over when revved either.
 
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projectPONY

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well, technically it's not for professional use but a friend and I have bought old stangs before and fixed them up to re-sell and we figured something like this would help him make sure engines are good to go. he rebuilds the engines and I do the paint and body side.
 

pop pop

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out of curiosity, do you guys strap those things down? And how? I dont see any loops on the rigs at all.

I would think even the moderate torque engine would flip that little stand with even the slightest blip of the throttle

me too!
 

Rural53

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I once saw an engine running loose in the back of a pick-up truck. SBC.

Gas can, battery and jumper cables. Yep, rednecks at their finest.

Didn't flip over when revved either.

Yeap, done similiar. Fuel can, HP fuel pump, jumper cables and ran a 5.0L Commodore (GM) V8 on the floor. It didn't try to flip over, but with open headers it was loud.:willy_nil

edit: I'm sure I got some video of it, I'll try and find it.
 

jstroede

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Just about any 2" square tubing will be more than adequate, and no it will not tip over. I have mine on 8" pneumatic tires from HF just in case I get on unlevel ground or something similar. Mine does not break down as it was an added complication, and it almost always has an engine on it anyway. I will try and get some pics up tonight. The only thing that disappoints me about mine is that I can't get my buddy's 400 Pontiac mounted up on it (at least not easily) because of where the exhaust exits the head.

John
 
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projectPONY

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well, the project is underway and as promised, here are some pics. nothing much but I've got some of the tubing cut and have started on cleaning the edges and beveling them also. as soon as I get further along I will post more. BTW, this is going to be closer in comparison to the red one I posted earlier but with some changes. for example, the length of the red one is 54" where mine is only 44". I know you can't tell from the pic of the red one but it's almost long enough to carry the engine and ****** on it together. I didn't care for that since I don't see the need for the ****** to be on during break-ins. therefore, I shortened it by 10".



runstand1.jpg


runstand2.jpg


runstand3.jpg
 
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projectPONY

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Dallas, TX
well, I cut the risers out this morning. I cut them at 16", so if I did my math correctly, the distance from the floor to the motor mount should be right at about 30". that's the typical height that an engine sits at while on an engine stand. this is what I have so far.

runstand4.jpg


runstand5.jpg
 
Joined
Jul 14, 2006
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Columbus, Ohio
Project Pony - IDK, I'd have to go out to the garage and unbury it. :(

It was one of my first welding exp's. I'd do some things different now, but it worked for what I wanrted it for. (Breaking in the cam, and tuning the carb (which I have flipped flopped on a couple of times...))

(Now if I could find time to complete the car it's self !! 10+ year project. )
:(
 

drewski

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Apr 13, 2008
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Location
Mid-Tn
I have a test stand that I've been building along with a trailer that will also be used as a motorcycle trailer. The stand bolts to the trailer, but can also be taken off and dropped on a a frame with casters for rolling around the shop.

EngineTestStand002.jpg


EngineTestStandTrailer010.jpg


EngineTestStandTrailer018.jpg


trailerbuild002.jpg


The reason for the trailer was to allow me to take the stand to the engine rather than have people bringing the engine to my shop.

Drew
 

bad_idea

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Jun 11, 2011
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Pasquotank, NC
Unless this is in a dedicated shop space, I would make it collapsible. Some pipe for the uprights w/ cups (made of slightly larger pipe) welded to the base frame would make that thing collapsible and easy to tuck into a corner somewhere.
 

DCarr

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May 2, 2008
Messages
453
Here's one I made for a guy specifically for Chevy engines. I have one very similar that is fully adjustable and have run BB & SB Chevy, 302 & 390 Ford and a 360 Mopar on it. I'll try to dig up pictures.

DSC00059.jpg
 
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