engine stand

[bassman]

Allright, its finaly time to start on my 71' vette again. I need an engine stand, and I'm looking at the ranger RES-1TF 2k lb unit at 195 plus around 50 for del. Do you think its worth it to spend so much when I can get a harbor freight unit less than half that?

 

[tonydanzah]

is the ranger usa/canada made? or it is china?

 

[Shadowdog500]

China! Ranger rebadged the HF tire machine and sell it for about 50% more as well.

Greg smith sells a 2K engine stand that looks identical to the RES-1TF stand for $99.00

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/2-000-LB-Capacity-Folding-Engine-Stand-p/htes2000.htm

here is a photo of theirs.

Here is a photo of the Ranger one:

The HF model is about 15 lb. heavier, but for some reason this stand looks allot more beefy.

Chris

 

[bassman]

I don't mind paying more to get american made quality. But I don't want to spend more to get more chinese junk. I guess I'm being **** about this, its just an engine stand, but I don't want it to collapse.

 

[tonydanzah]

So you would rather pay more for the ranger name then? if it is in fact the same stand?

 

[nate379]

The $50 one they sell as Shuck's works fine. Has held a 700ish lb 6.2L diesel without trouble.

 

[bassman]

No, I didn't say I'd pay more for the ranger name if its the same quality, I said I'd pay more for an american, quality unit, not if its the same thing.

 

[tonydanzah]

No, I didn't say I'd pay more for the ranger name if its the same quality, I said I'd pay more for an american, quality unit, not if its the same thing.

there sir, is your answer

 

[Packard V8]

The $50 one they sell as Shuck's works fine. Has held a 700ish lb 6.2L diesel without trouble

You're a brave and lucky man, Nate.

I'm looking for a really sturdy stand, but it looks as if I'll have to build my own. All those I've used sag, bind up and won't rotate easily when a 700# Packard V8 is dragging them down. I've come very near to tipping one when trying to rotate the engine. I've been thinking of getting a front hub from a big 4WD and welding that to the stand and bolting the head to the lug studs. Any suggestions as to one which would be best?

jack vines

 

[leftyz]

Bassman I'll sell you my stand, I don't have a use for it anymore.

Used it for a nissan v6 and then a chevy 350.

its this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-stand-32916.html

 

[nate379]

The one I had worked fine. 4 wheels on it.

It wasn't anything near an expensive one, but for what I paid for it, I thought it was of decent construction. Claimed to hold 2000lb, but I wouldn't hang a 2000lb diesel on it... I don't think even a 5.9L Cummins which is only 1000ish lbs.

You're a brave and lucky man, Nate.

I'm looking for a really sturdy stand, but it looks as if I'll have to build my own. All those I've used sag, bind up and won't rotate easily when a 700# Packard V8 is dragging them down. I've come very near to tipping one when trying to rotate the engine. I've been thinking of getting a front hub from a big 4WD and welding that to the stand and bolting the head to the lug studs. Any suggestions as to one which would be best?

jack vines

My brother built one a few years ago to hold a Ford 351. I bet it could could hold a Cummins N14 without breaking a sweat! I'll see if he can send me photos.

 

[Packard V8]

It wasn't anything near an expensive one, but for what I paid for it, I thought it was of decent construction. Claimed to hold 2000lb,

As I said, you're lucky to have found a 2000# rated engine stand for $50 retail. Most of the 1000# rated stands are $79-129 retail.

My brother built one a few years ago to hold a Ford 351. I bet it could could hold a Cummins N14 without breaking a sweat!

What I'm most interested in is a head with bearings so the engine will rotate without excessive force required. All the homeowner types are loosely fitted painted surface on painted surface. I even tried sanding off the paint and lubricating the pipe-within-pipe. However, they fit so loosely, all the weight is concentrated on two points.

jack vines

 

[SSGTWC]

I've had a Chinese made one for 8 years now. I have International engines, that weigh 750lbs. It's hasn't collapsed, nor does it appear that it will.

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

On the Packard...that is really damn heavy (and long as well, compared to engines not planned for a 5 inch bore)...not only is the weight tremendous, engine blocks actually sag structurally slightly when suspended from one end!
Consider: One stouter than average stand with custom made beacket to mount Packard sideways, cutting overhang and stress...or TWO el cheapos, pie cut to make their sindles parallel, holding engine from both ends. You can add in a chainhoist while you put in camshaft, other stuff should be doable with both stands on, I think.

 

[Packard V8]

Hi, Bruce,

Correct on all points. When I'm doing just short or long blocks, I have a fifty-year-old rebuild factory stand which supports the engine front and rear. I modified it to fit the Packard V8. Only problem is, the front plate bolts to where the timing cover goes. In a perfect world, I'd be able to install the front bits before removing it from the stand.

As a bit of trivia, my engine machinist doesn't believe in engine stands. He uses a low bench made from angle iron.

thnx, jack vines

 

[nate379]

Yup, that is what he did. Then he made an index wheel with a spring loaded pin. You pull the pin and twist it 1/2 a turn, rotate the engine to where you want it, and turn the pin back 1/2 the turn to lock it in a hole. (There's one like every 1" or so)

He was going to set it up with a gearbox and crank, but is was starting to become an expensive "cheap" stand.

As I said, you're lucky to have found a 2000# rated engine stand for $50 retail. Most of the 1000# rated stands are $79-129 retail.


What I'm most interested in is a head with bearings so the engine will rotate without excessive force required. All the homeowner types are loosely fitted painted surface on painted surface. I even tried sanding off the paint and lubricating the pipe-within-pipe. However, they fit so loosely, all the weight is concentrated on two points.

jack vines

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

My endwise two-pivot engine stand is one made for flathead Fords in the '30's and '40's...I have a WWII engine rebuilding book showing an endless row of them in a gigantic flathead rebuilding plant. The rear pivot has legs long enough and spaced so rear assembly of clutch bits is easy, and front pivot is extremely large diameter and hollow in line with camshaft! Just a beautiful design in all ways.
I was just reading a high-dollar buildup of a Packard V8 for a hotrod Hawk in a circa '56 HRM...bored, stroked killer engine. I almost bought a bathtub Nash with one of those engines when I was about 14, thinking about stuffing it into my '32. Nash was gaudiest car I ever saw, loaded, 3-tone paint, perfect except dead hydro, worth just about nothing in the mid-sixties.

 

[Packard V8]

Hi, Bruce,

Your engine stand description resembles mine. It is in the back of my storage garage right now. If you get to yours first, shoot us a photo.

The Packard V8 buildup you reference is the only one Hot Rod Magazine ever did. Always wonder what happened to that car and engine. It ran once at Bonneville and only got to 140. They mentioned small problems kept it from going faster. It's either small problems or large problems, because if it was easy, everyone would go fast.

thnx, jack vines

 

[JEEPLESS]

Packard V8 - might be excessive but I saw this one on the forum last week:

http://www.cmproductsstands.com/

It looks well built and is made in the USA.

 

[scheu]

I'm with Jack. Get the best, heaviest you can. I had a cheap one bent with a 390 Ford on it. Wouldn't even turn with the weight on it.
That goes for cherry pickers too. I had a very bad day with cheap one and a Packard straight 8....
scheu

 

[Packard V8]

The Packard I8 is a monster of an engine. It will let you know if you are using cheap tools.

I almost lost a Packard V8 off a ChiCom cherry picker. The vertical arm is bolted to the base with two bolts in typically Chinese oversize holes. When I tried to roll the stand over rough asphalt, the two bolts shifted in their holes and almost dumped a Packard V8 in my lap. I'm getting the welder after all the joints which shouldn't be moving. The legs fold, so I'm welding thick washers in place to take up the slop. By the time I'm done trying to fix it, I'll be re-learning a lesson I first got more than fifty years ago . . .

You can't polish garbage! Wrap it in shiny paper, pour perfume on it, tie a ribbon around it and it's still GARBAGE.

jack vines

 

[Side]

I have been really happy with the three 1500# folding engine stands I got from Northern Tool. One holds a Small block Chevy. The second holds a 1956 Industrial Hemi and the third (bought last week quality and price still the same as two years ago) holds a 292 Y-Block. They all went together nicely and function well.

 

[mrholeshot]

I don't know of one built in the US anymore. I have several. Just buy a good heavy duty one. I keep Big Block Chevys on my Big OTC (made in China), Smaller engine I keep on 750lb stands.

 

[emeraldcoupe]

i have a larin (sp?) 4 leg stand,1250lb iirc, held a fully dressed 460 for about a year with no sagging. i have another with a 351 on it now, no complaints.

 

[anaxagoras]

I've got an import engine stand, but it held my mustang engine just fine. It's the omega 1250 lbs geared head stand. Think i paid about 200 for it.

 

[MOPARHOUND!]

My rule of thumb is buy only stands rated for 1250 lbs. or more. The cheaper 750 and 1000 lb. stands are too light duty.

Have 5 with 383's and 440's on them, no problem.

 

[stock z/28]

My favorite engine stands and the ones I use for engine assembly are Lakewoods that I bought back in 70s.

I have a couple of heavier built stands that are more solid that I use at times for some special purposes.

I have 2 very heavy duty stands that use a worm gear mechanism to rotate the head. I have added adjustable supports for the front of heavy engines just to take a lot of the load off the bellhousing area. I am always worried about distortion.

I have seen various stands with roller or ball bearing heads that rotate very easily, but in my opinion can be a dangerous if the load is not properly balanced, and can swing over center very easily. Kinda scary.

 

[Lump]

I have an older, heavy duty USA-made engine stand, and I have also had others which were cheaply-made imports. But the way I see it, it's the severe consequences you face if something does go wrong...that's what drives my decision. Cheaply-made engine stands MIGHT work okay for most cases...and indeed they often do. (I think I recall seeing some cheapo US-made stands, from the 60's, by the way...so I'm referring to ANY cheaply-made, light-duty engine stands or hoists...not just Chinese.) But IF an engine stand or engine hoist happens to fail, and a heavy engine comes tumbling down while you're working on it...NOW what are the possible consequences? Severe injury? Tremendous damage? For me, it's just not worth it. We're not talking about thousands of dollars in difference.

 

[Teutonic]

I ended up buying a Sunex 8300GA geared stand about 2 years ago in order to be able to rotate a bunch of very top-heavy 32V Porsche 928 motors. Read too many scary stories about stands almost tipping over when the engine's 90o on its side. Works like a champ.

 

[Lump]

I have an original LS-6 Chevelle motor ready to come home from the engine shop. It is numbers-matching to my documented 454 Chevelle. So not only am I concerned about safety, I don't want to take ANY chances with my motor!!

 

[TCJ1981]

I'd say find a nice heavy-duty geared engine stand. I know Napa sells a nice one. They are alot easier to use if you have to rotate the engine quite a bit. They are more money, but for me its a reasonable trade off.

 

[TireTracks]

My rule of thumb is buy only stands rated for 1250 lbs. or more. The cheaper 750 and 1000 lb. stands are too light duty.

Have 5 with 383's and 440's on them, no problem.

We need pitures, and descriptions, and parts lists.