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Englishwheel build

FlyingLow

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Mar 10, 2014
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127
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Vancouver Island
Well I need another project like I need a hole in my head but I guess I'm a sucker for punishment. I've always wanted an Englishwheel and looked at them off and on over the years and then a set of wheels came up on Craigslist. I have seen them on there few times but they were too much money in the beginning. Picked them up for $125, origins unknown, guy built the top wheel and had it heat treated.

I want to do this on a budget so I began the scrounge for steel and thought it would take a while to get the materials together. I had a 4' piece of 10x10 I beam (1/2" flanges, 5/16" web) in the corner of the garage that I'd been saving for who knows what and thought it would be a good start for the base. Then I was at the local metal supplier and he had some odd length cut pieces of 5x5 5/16 wall tubing. A little bigger than planned but not by much. Picked up 2 6' lengths for about $0.60 a pound.

Welding it together with a powermate 225 which is kinda new to me and I'm still getting used to it. Anyway pics will show where I'm at.
 

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FlyingLow

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Mar 10, 2014
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I put some 3/8" plate to gusset the I beam between the flanges because it looked like it could twist a bit, I'll add more if required.

At this point I'm not sure how I'm going to mount the screw and wheel on the lower arm which is going to affect the design of the lower arm. Thinking I want to weld plates on to create a flat mounting surface (vertically) to bolt the upper and lower wheels to the frame. I hope that makes sense. Anyway, any input would be appreciated.
 

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dwp99

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Apr 18, 2012
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West Coast of Florida
Looks great so far. Welds look good. Make sure you build it with enough throat to wheel the width metal you want to work and then some.
 
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FlyingLow

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Mar 10, 2014
Messages
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Vancouver Island
Thanks for the reassurance. I'm planning on 36" from the wheel center to the frame, originally thought 30" but one of my coworkers said always go bigger than you think when it comes to tools. Also the size of the material allows it, would be a shame to build a bench top model with this size of material. I have it flipped upside down to finish welding in the gussets. Still trying to decide on the lower arm design.
 
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stinkity stoink

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New Jersey
From my research a big throat is nice ,but not necessary. A narrower machine will be a lot stiffer and move material much faster I believe.
If you build for example a 30" throat. That is a 60" panel you are capable of wheeling. Most very experienced shapers might be able to do that ( with a helper).

Just my 2 cents. Otherwise great job!!!! Thanks for posting
 
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yhprum

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Jul 27, 2006
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Brisbane Australia
Good idea using the plates for the lower arm..
Also, some guys will put a grub screw at each corner of the plate next to the bolt holes so you use that instead of shimming to line things up.
 
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FlyingLow

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Vancouver Island
gonna be a monster

what you going to make with it? branche I mean

Going to start with some motorcycle fenders to begin with. Want to start a hot rod project so it will get some use on that.

From my research a big throat is nice ,but not necessary. A narrower machine will be a lot stiffer and move material much faster I believe.
If you build for example a 30" throat. That is a 60" panel you are capable of wheeling. Most very experienced shapers might be able to do that ( with a helper).

Just my 2 cents. Otherwise great job!!!! Thanks for posting

Yes I know, if rather it too big than too small. If lack of stiffness becomes an issue I will put threaded rod down each side to hold the C tighter for smaller projects.

Good idea using the plates for the lower arm..
Also, some guys will put a grub screw at each corner of the plate next to the bolt holes so you use that instead of shimming to line things up.

Great idea, thanks for passing that on. Definitely going to use that.

It is coming together nice, if you have never been to allmetalshaping you may take a look and get some ideas.

Thanks, I'll check it out. I've spent some time over on metalmeet.com and learned a couple things.

I think I've got a plan for the lower arm, not sure when I'll get back to it though, trying to keep the wife happy by installing hardwood floors in the addition we are just completing.
 

gigjoec

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Apr 19, 2015
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Going to start with some motorcycle fenders to begin with. Want to start a hot rod project so it will get some use on that.



Yes I know, if rather it too big than too small. If lack of stiffness becomes an issue I will put threaded rod down each side to hold the C tighter for smaller projects.



Great idea, thanks for passing that on. Definitely going to use that.



Thanks, I'll check it out. I've spent some time over on metalmeet.com and learned a couple things.

I think I've got a plan for the lower arm, not sure when I'll get back to it though, trying to keep the wife happy by installing hardwood floors in the addition we are just completing.
Any updates

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Lelandwelds

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Sep 6, 2017
Messages
2,443
Location
Central Texas
I am always impressed as hell when somebody can actually use one of the things. They are in the "art" section of metal tools. I usually hang out in the "hammer" area. I can bang away with Chinese body hammers and dolly and a leather sandbag and not get what I pictured much faster.

I like watching videos of somebody who is good. Even photos of final product and a few "in progress" shots are interesting. Please share.


Bead roller was very intuitive however. A shrinker was easy if I didn't try for too much.
 
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FlyingLow

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Mar 10, 2014
Messages
127
Location
Vancouver Island
Any updates

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Not really, I stalled out trying to figure out the adjustable part. I don't want it to be sloppy but I don't have a milling machine. I think it's going to end up being trailer hitch receiver tune and 2" inside it with screws on 3 sides to take care of the slop. I have to remind myself to keep it simple.

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