ENT Conduit - Anybody Use It?

[Spudland_Dave]

So to defer some costs yet not hold things up as far as insulation & sheathing, I was thinking about running some ENT tubing specifically for my 2welder outlets, Compressor outlet and other 220V runs.. Figure I can install that now for small money. And then just pull THHN thru down the road.

Especially in that shop end, I'm just not finding the perfect place to put a 2nd panel on the ground floor...attic space is always an option, but is a 2nd panel absouletly the answer.

 

[madosta]

If you have enough breaker spaces available for all those 240v appliances, I would run 3/4" conduit to the panel and where you want to terminate it.

Can't really go wrong.

I'm kind of in the same boat with an 8 space sub-panel and wanting more circuits. Thinking about putting in another panel near the panel, but haven't figure that out yet.

 

[madosta]

Oh, and I ran EMT rather than the ENT since I like the look.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

If you have enough breaker spaces available for all those 240v appliances, I would run 3/4" conduit to the panel and where you want to terminate it.

Can't really go wrong.

I'm kind of in the same boat with an 8 space sub-panel and wanting more circuits. Thinking about putting in another panel near the panel, but haven't figure that out yet.

Oh ya, I have a 24 space panel..5 Spaces used thus far, I think thats enough. I just penciled it out, looking at 12 more spaces, 14 if I splurge...so thats 19 total. I suppose my question would still be valid tho...IF i decide to put a 2nd sub in my attic, I'd probably still run all the ENT so I can bang out the electrical...and then pull the expensive wire (10ga and 6ga stuff) as I can afford it.

Because of the corrugations, I was more worried about the ease of pull more then anything. And I think I'd need 1" at least for my 6-3 runs (Running 4 conductor to my 220v 50A)

Oh, and I ran EMT rather than the ENT since I like the look.

I agree with the looks aspect, but I want to snake this in the wall and in the attic as if it were wire. EMT just requires that much more work.

Question when using EMT...is using metal boxes required? or can I use the plastic ENT boxes as well?

BIGGEST "issue" with my electrical, is I've spent the last couple years designing & planning my structure. No suprises when it went up. The original plan was to only insulate and rock the inside by NEXT winter at the earliest...giving me 16 months to do electrical work here and there. Now we ran into some Sheetrock & Insulation deals and I wasnt ready.....

 

[olytdi]

ENT = Ear, Nose, and Throat

EMT = Electrical Metallic Tubing

 

[Norcal]

"Question when using EMT...is using metal boxes required? or can I use the plastic ENT boxes as well?"

Answer, if you use plastic boxes the EMT is required to be grounded & the grounding bushings will cost considerably more then the savings of using metal boxes, use metal 4 square boxes & a ring to maintain grounding continuity.


BTW, ENT is a pain in the azz, it's brittle in cold weather, it can be a real pain to pull wire through......

 

[Aceman]

ENT = Ear, Nose, and Throat

EMT = Electrical Metallic Tubing

ENT= Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing

http://www.carlonsales.com/flexplusblueent.php

 

[Norcal]

ENT = Ear, Nose, and Throat

EMT = Electrical Metallic Tubing

ENT= Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing

http://www.carlonsales.com/flexplusblueent.php

To add a little...

ENT's nic is "Smurf Tube". Carlons product is blue, competitors product is gray.

 

[Ironhorse]

To add a little...

ENT's nic is "Smurf Tube". Carlons product is blue, competitors product is gray.

Smurf tube is used for fiber optic cable, pools, and other **** low voltage etc...really for running stuff for the garage...just use good old fashion EMT...plus Smurf tubing is more money then EMT..yes less work but really it will be a pain pulling romex or what ever you doing with it. EMT is for Thhn etc..it is coated on the inside for pulling so runs are easy...also fixing a f-up is easy just pull out or in wire as needed.

Just a thought.

 

[rockwithjason]

if you want to run in the wall why not just use flex? there is no advantage to ent and it ***** for most things.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

if you want to run in the wall why not just use flex? there is no advantage to ent and it ***** for most things.

You mean the Liquidtight version? Looking at pricing, looks to be the same except the fittings. Thats an option.
They're running some 30A circuits here at my work now all in that CarFlex stuff...nice stuff.

 

[Norcal]

Flex is steel or aluminum, AKA, "Greenfield".

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Flex is steel or aluminum, AKA, "Greenfield".

ah ha!
Because Carlon calls it CarFlex, thats what I thought he was talking about...
http://www.carlonsales.com/carflexexflexnmconduit.php

So how is pulling THHN thru "Flex"? My biggest fear is it doesnt pull when its time.

 

[ishiboo]

if you want to run in the wall why not just use flex? there is no advantage to ent and it ***** for most things.

ENT is cheap and easy to work with, you can cut it easier than flex unless you have the $60 cutter, and it's fine for his application.

Smurf tube is used for fiber optic cable, pools, and other **** low voltage etc...really for running stuff for the garage...just use good old fashion EMT...plus Smurf tubing is more money then EMT..yes less work but really it will be a pain pulling romex or what ever you doing with it. EMT is for Thhn etc..it is coated on the inside for pulling so runs are easy...also fixing a f-up is easy just pull out or in wire as needed.

Just a thought.

He is likely running in existing studs from the sound of it, solid conduit of any type is probably not an option. ENT is fine for his application, and it's cheap and easy to install. Why not! Only reason I'd do steel flex is if you're likely to put a screw or nail in it, and then you need steel... NOT the aluminum flex.

 

[rockwithjason]

you can cut aluminum flex with a pair of dykes. you can cut the steel stuff that way too but if you don't want to you can use a hack saw. you cut cross ways across the band and twist. very easy. when you run flex you have to pay attention to sags and bends. pull it tight and strap it and try to make it as straight as possible. if you have any doubts pull a string in it before you close the walls up.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

ENT is cheap and easy to work with, you can cut it easier than flex unless you have the $60 cutter, and it's fine for his application.

If by cutter you are referring to one of these...then yep, I got one:

He is likely running in existing studs from the sound of it, solid conduit of any type is probably not an option. ENT is fine for his application, and it's cheap and easy to install. Why not! Only reason I'd do steel flex is if you're likely to put a screw or nail in it, and then you need steel... NOT the aluminum flex.

Correct, running in existing studs. the only real reason for doing this is I dont want to spend the money on all that copper right now.

If you have any doubts pull a string in it before you close the walls up.

I would certianly do that...so once the string is in, the actual wire pull thru the stuff isnt too bad I take it? I only ask because I know how much of a PITA it is to use #6 CU in a double gang box to do a recept...I just didnt know if a bendy/twisty/curvey conduit is just asking for trouble. I'm sure pulling a CAT 5/6 thru it would be a cinch...4 Strands of #6 on the other hand...

 

[Spudland_Dave]

if you want to run in the wall why not just use flex? there is no advantage to ent and it ***** for most things.

As a follow up...Did some quick price shopping... 3/4" AL Flex is $68-ish/100' same size in Liquid Tight is 53.00ish, and 100' of 3/4" ENT (Smurf Tube) is 35ish bucks.
So an advantage is price I guess...