I hate to be the voice of cynicism, but you have no idea of even what kind of wire to use for these things, do you know where to run them, and are you going to be able to terminate all of them?? The Cat5 and RG6 require specific terminations, some can be done DIY with no special tools but they are inferior connections IMO.
If I were you I'd start watching YouTube tutorials.
It isn't rocket science. (Well, I guess technically it is
)
You don't have to terminate any of your connections when roughing it in. Often times, I'll run redundant cabling and leave it unterminated to save cost, or run separate drops for extra workstations that may or may not be used ever, those can be unterminated as well. If you have a pipe bender, I would run some empty conduit for your possible locations and fill it later.
Never run your information cable in parallel to your electrical cable. If you must, keep it many feet away, the further the better. Crossing the electrical at a 90 degree is ok. Always, always, always make home runs to your cable closet. Never daisy chain for any information cable. (Even if you think you are "only" going to use it for POTS, never daisy chain)
There are two ways to make an RJ45 connection. Pick your method for your site and follow the wire map. Keep the pairs gently twisted as much as possible to the punchdown, as the twist is what makes the speed. The twist also makes the connection more secure, as it keeps the wires in place.
As far as what type of UTP: Cat5(e) vs Cat6, use whatever you want. Cat6 has a channel inside the cable jacket. This channel keeps the wires in place. The position of the wire inside the jacket determines how fast the cable can transmit. Cat5(e) and Cat6 can transmit at the same rate out of the box. Over time, because of the special channel, the performance of Cat6 will be maintained. If you are putting it behind a wall or in conduit where it will never move and making good solid jacks, Cat5(e) is fine. Cat6 is also larger and will fill a conduit more. That is something to consider.
UTP is very versatile. It can carry audio and s-video, as well as data. You can use it to drive any speaker you are likely to have at home, but by then you should just spring for proper speaker wire, unless you get the UTP for free.
The proper size of speaker wire will be determined by the length of the run and the speaker and amp, but generally the thicker the better for sound quality. Some basic minimums: Less than 50 ft -> 16 gauge, more than 50 -> 14 gauge. Try to keep the front channel runs to the same length. Fancy oxygen free stuff will not degrade as much over time.
RG6 quadshielded will be required by your cable installer, or else he'll want to surface mount and install his own. Rebroadcast signals can be handled by whatever else you want. If you want a home security system, for instance, you can use cheaper RG59 for that circuit.
