Entry Level Technician's Toolkit

[1950mercury]

Why is it that others mentioned this in the past? I was always under the impression this was the case. Is there any Myth Buster article on this?

I've never seen it mentioned b4. Where was it mentioned?

And I'm sorry but I wouldn't recommend tekton to a pro mechanic. Sure they are fine for a diy guy. I would buy screwdrivers,chrome sockets and ratchets from a tool truck,preferably snap on if you have a good driver. You will love the fact that they come to you and replace/fix them.

 

[trackwelder]

Swivel sockets, locking extensions, impact rated socket reducers.

 

[zakmartin]

DUPLICATE - Deleted

 

[zakmartin]

I saw this set: Armstrong Brothers Tool Co 44-021 available at Cripe Distributing for $900.

Armstrong 44-021 139Pc Metric & Standard Tool & Cabinet

The price seems almost crazy since the 44-021 normally goes for $3100+. You might want to give Cripe a call at (208) 424-3370 to see if the set is really the 44-021 WITH the cabinet like on the first link. If it is, use the 10% discount they offer to Garage Journal members and you're in pretty good shape for a basic tool set.

 

[SantaAna12]

Realistically he only needs the 1/2" for lugs and wheel bearings.

You'd have to be some sort of retard to not properly tighten (or break) 10mm, 13mm and 15mm fasteners on fairly new cars still under warranty.

Do you torque your drain plugs, splash guards/skid plates and oil filters too? Tight is tight, just don't strip or cross thread it. If you can't feel it stay out of this trade.

Just an opinion.......I suggest you toss this valid opinion (it is valid to the poster at a minimum) out until you have more experience.

Bring a positive attitude and be prepared to learn from your coworkers. Find your mentor, and follow.

Here is one: bring a pocket notepad and carry a pen at all times.

good luck at your new job.

 

[winlinmac]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52859

I believe they implied the set appeared similar to Blue Point, but were not made at the same source.

I've never seen it mentioned b4. Where was it mentioned?

And I'm sorry but I wouldn't recommend tekton to a pro mechanic. Sure they are fine for a diy guy. I would buy screwdrivers,chrome sockets and ratchets from a tool truck,preferably snap on if you have a good driver. You will love the fact that they come to you and replace/fix them.

 

[K-Dog]

I've been looking for a good pair of ear muffs! And I've got plenty of safety glasses too.

See also nitrile gloves, and a respirator if you are doing brakes.

 

[K-Dog]

Seriously, you will probably get picked on or laughed at for using safety gear a whole lot. I get called Captain Safety all the time. I am pretty serious about my safety gear. I take steps most don't. Simple reality is, I want to retire on a beach, not in a hospital room.

 

[RotaryLove]

Seriously, you will probably get picked on or laughed at for using safety gear a whole lot. I get called Captain Safety all the time. I am pretty serious about my safety gear. I take steps most don't. Simple reality is, I want to retire on a beach, not in a hospital room.

I'm not really concerned with anyone's perception of me. Nitrile gloves are a must when working with oil and brake clean as far as i'm concerned. I wear glasses because I hate getting dirt in my eyes when I'm under the car. I also like wearing ear muffs whenever I work with air tools, they're incredibly loud.

 

[DudeManSpecial]

Anyone that does not do this every day for a living really has no business commenting on this but you will have that on a public forum. If you intend to do this job long term start buying basic hand tools off a reputable tool truck. Ask other guys in shop which is most reliable there. Sockets, pliers, screwdrivers, ratchets stuff you pay for good quality. Kolbolt sears HF is for home garages. More advanced stuff borrow off of other techs until you can afford to buy it. Nobody helps you out with tools? Find another shop......Ive worked in multie shops never had trouble borrowing or lending as long as you showed that you were working on your tool sets. HF Lowes sears good for some things but not sockets ratchets screwdrivers pliers for a pro.

 

[KEH]

Suggest you see what sizes of sockets can be used as punches to seat seals or bearings. They also can be used in installing universal joints, if you do that kind of work. Then go to pawn shop and dig out cheap sockets of that size to use to beat on. Also, get some cheap, but not too cheap, used screwdrivers to beat on and pry with. I would get good quality screwdrivers but not to beat on. Almost forgot. I am constantly seeing extensions used as punches and beat to pieces, like a nice old Williams today that was beat so much the square hole was misshapen. Get a few cheap extensions to use if necessary for punches. Another thing that is sometimes useful is a wood chisel for scraping gaskets. They are commonly found in pawn shops. Pay very little for this junky stuff, you are doing the PS a favor by freeing up shelf space.

KEH



KEH

 

[thegroundpounder99]

Anyone that does not do this every day for a living really has no business commenting on this but you will have that on a public forum. If you intend to do this job long term start buying basic hand tools off a reputable tool truck. Ask other guys in shop which is most reliable there. Sockets, pliers, screwdrivers, ratchets stuff you pay for good quality. Kolbolt sears HF is for home garages. More advanced stuff borrow off of other techs until you can afford to buy it. Nobody helps you out with tools? Find another shop......Ive worked in multie shops never had trouble borrowing or lending as long as you showed that you were working on your tool sets. HF Lowes sears good for some things but not sockets ratchets screwdrivers pliers for a pro.

Ditto!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jacobson]

Seriously, you will probably get picked on or laughed at for using safety gear a whole lot. I get called Captain Safety all the time. I am pretty serious about my safety gear. I take steps most don't. Simple reality is, I want to retire on a beach, not in a hospital room.

That's pathetic in this day and age of information. You will get the last laugh when they are hobbling crippled emphysema coughing corpses at age 50.

 

[1950mercury]

Suggest you see what sizes of sockets can be used as punches to seat seals or bearings. They also can be used in installing universal joints, if you do that kind of work. Then go to pawn shop and dig out cheap sockets of that size to use to beat on. Also, get some cheap, but not too cheap, used screwdrivers to beat on and pry with. I would get good quality screwdrivers but not to beat on. Almost forgot. I am constantly seeing extensions used as punches and beat to pieces, like a nice old Williams today that was beat so much the square hole was misshapen. Get a few cheap extensions to use if necessary for punches. Another thing that is sometimes useful is a wood chisel for scraping gaskets. They are commonly found in pawn shops. Pay very little for this junky stuff, you are doing the PS a favor by freeing up shelf space.

KEH


KEH

Don't do this^^^^^not in a dealership.....

 

[Skin]

I'll be harsh. Any tech who doesn't wear safety glasses and have a pair of ear plugs available at all times is literally a *****. I say this as someone who has gotten ringing ears and **** in my eyes more times than can count.

If your flat rate or hourly + flat rate make sure you fully embrace power tools. Lots of talk on this board about ratchets and breaker bars but when time is quite literally money you want impact wrenches, cordless screw guns, and cordless ratchets. All you want to do is get the job done and move on. You aren't going to give a damn about how nice a ratchet feels or how many teeth it has.

Long term advice. Take Yoga or work out. You get a beer gut and spend your free time on your **** its game over, your body will be a wreck long before retirement. The guys who dont get crippled by age 50 are the ones who take care of themselves. In a similar vein don't be stupid and try to dead lift things like transmissions, always get a helping hand. Some salty old timers might give you **** about being a wuss but they're almost assuredly the ones with bad knees and backs. Likewise invest in your personal comfort. Good boots, anti-fatigue mats, good creepers and pads etc.. Use your dealer for as many certs and as much schooling as possible but in the end follow the money.

It doesn't matter how you take it apart. Make sure it goes back together right and keep your work tidy.

Always look to learn more. If your aspirations stop at doing brakes, suspension, and exhaust with the occasional sensor replacement and head gasket mixed in you severely limit your value as an employee and you can expect to have a pretty dismal income.

You're commited to buying more Sunex tools after the MIR of course, but if their stuff is any good it's worth it I guess.

This is not true. The rebate is a prepaid credit card, you can use it on gas and groceries or on the tool truck. Doesn't matter.

 

[RedneckWelder]

Seriously, you will probably get picked on or laughed at for using safety gear a whole lot. I get called Captain Safety all the time. I am pretty serious about my safety gear. I take steps most don't. Simple reality is, I want to retire on a beach, not in a hospital room.

In my shop not using the appropriate safety gear is a quick way to get written up and if you are a constant hazard to yourself or others you will find yourself loading your box up and picking up your last check.

Oh and if you don't work smart and safe the old timers will give you a lot of ****. There are no points for being macho here. One of the things I really like is that my company and coworkers will both do all they can to get you to the end of the day safely and it's genuine concern for you.

 

[shoggoth80]

HF Lowes sears good for some things but not sockets ratchets screwdrivers pliers for a pro."
-Meh. I've got Kobalt, a little Pitts rat, and a lot of Cman in my work box. They get the job done. Don't win any whizz bang points. Don't care. Most of my tools are issued, and that includes the Cman stuff (wrenches, sockets, and ratchets...I've split Cman sockets down the side). The Kobalt and Pitts stuff are things I added because. 2 years in to abusive fleet service, and they are still kicking. That said I've also got the likes of SK and Proto in there too.

 

[MDK22]

In all honesty I own a VW and I work on Big Rigs. What that means is I know what is cheap **** and what is not. I work on the border of the rust belt and lived and moving back to pa right next to NJ.

Metric Wrenches: Gearwrench until you can get SO Flankdrive+

For all sockets,extensions,adapters, triple squares, tox, allen all impact always unless you really need that clearance (Very rare) I suggest Grey Pnuematic Brand except for universal sockets (clearance issues). Why? because I have yet to break a single one of there sockets, they are thin, they are impact and I have use a 3/8" MG325 at full power with 90+psi sustained with a 1/4" 5mm socket. You will find impacts will rarely if ever round a bolt and if it does it was rounded already, its seized, or crossthreaded.

For all bits or bit sockets: Get VIM it is what SO uses and is roughly 1/3 the price and you can also get ball torx bits/bit sockets. Most people do not even know ball torx existed.

Cordless Impact: Go with 18v+ anything less is a waste of money. I suggest looking at real tool reviews on youtube. If I am not mistaken he is a member on here as well.

1/2" Impact: SO MG725 you can not feather an IR Titanium well otherwise I would suggest that. Also make sure to always oil your air tools with Air Tool oil and grease them if they have a grease fitting. IR does SO does not.

1/2" Breaker Bar: I break them regardless of brand. I suggest SO but, it really doesn't matter like I said I have broken every brand of them.

Screwdriver Set: These are not prybars anyone that tells you other wise hit with an actual prybar and a screwdriver ask them which hurts worse. You will hurt yourself otherwise. SO, Expert, Mayhew (Has a capped Driving End)

Multimeter: Fluke, Extech, SO

Pliers? Seriously, there are so many types of pliers you need to be way more specific. Channellock for tongue and groove / linesman / Needle Nose, Knipex for Cobras/diag side cutters, Klien for Electrical, Vice Grip originals for Vice Grips.

Oil Filter wrench: SO FWA62121A

Oil filter sockets??? I still have yet to figure out why the hell people do not use a normal socket place one hand over head of ratchet pushing down hard and turn the ratchet. It is not difficult at all. I do it all the time and we have filter caped canisters on big rigs (still plastic, still only 1/4" high hex, and a hell of a lot tighter) and I use a deep with an adapter on a long flex head wrench. Use normal sockets unless its a half size aka 32.5mm or you have clearance issues. Hell I have even had to use an impact because a TA crossthreaded the cap. Use normal sockets just keep heavy downward force on them and if you feel it start to slip stop.

I suggest highly you look at other techs toolboxes this will give you the best idea. I can almost guarentee you will find GP (Grey Pnuematic) and VIM sockets in at least one person's box. Also check your PM

 

[MDK22]

Also HF is junk professionally speaking.

Box Stores aka Sears, Lowes, Home Depot are for home owners and light users not mechanics. Some brands cross over aka Vaughan, Gearwrench, Nicholson but, Box Store brands ie Husky, Craftsman, etc are not worth it for an actual mechanic. They are fine for DIY or Weekend Warriors but, as far as for actual Mechanics and Technicians they are ****. You may get away with Box Store Brands for tools rarely used but, even then they are not made of good quality.

Over half the people in this forum do not do this for a living they do it for fun or a hobby. So you need to really look into who is giving you advice.

Hope that helps.

 

[abvw]

Techs spend their entire career to build their toolsets, its not something you can achieve overnight and with a $800 budget.

 

[winlinmac]

The first statement is just a mindset. I've seen Mechanics breaking their Snap On Ratchets right in front of me. Perhaps, they were being clumsy.

Also HF is junk professionally speaking.

Box Stores aka Sears, Lowes, Home Depot are for home owners and light users not mechanics. Some brands cross over aka Vaughan, Gearwrench, Nicholson but, Box Store brands ie Husky, Craftsman, etc are not worth it for an actual mechanic. They are fine for DIY or Weekend Warriors but, as far as for actual Mechanics and Technicians they are ****. You may get away with Box Store Brands for tools rarely used but, even then they are not made of good quality.

Over half the people in this forum do not do this for a living they do it for fun or a hobby. So you need to really look into who is giving you advice.

Hope that helps.

Very True, especially on the professional forefront. A Snap-On truck doesn't work 24/7, drivers need to get their sleep too you know, unless they are working on a rotating shift schedule

Techs spend their entire career to build their toolsets, its not something you can achieve overnight and with a $800 budget.

 

[abvw]

The first statement is just a mindset. I've seen Mechanics breaking their Snap On Ratchets right in front of me. Perhaps, they were being clumsy.

Tools will all wear out and fail regardless of brands.

The difference is failing at the 10th use and failing at the 1000th.

It may take years for a DIY to reach their 10th use, thats why you see a lot of "I've had this for years and it hasn't failed me yet".

 

[winlinmac]

I've used HF's extendable ratchet over dozens of times now in removing hard to remove lug nuts, hasn't failed on me since, all teeth are still intact on the ratchet. The problem is that some DIY'er are not all that familiar in how to use everyday tools. Every day, they learn something new. As long as you know how to properly orient yourself to a tool, you really should not have any problem. Snap On's is foolproof in many ways, because there's been a lot of thought in their division in how to design a tool.

Tools will all wear out and fail regardless of brands.

The difference is failing at the 10th use and failing at the 1000th.

It may take years for a DIY to reach their 10th use, thats why you see a lot of "I've had this for years and it hasn't failed me yet".

 

[MDK22]

Look I am not going to argue with you. I have broken HF, SO, Expert, Mac, Blackhawk, and Craftsman ratchets. It took a lot more to break the SO and Expert.

I have use my Expert 3/8" to break loose i would say over 1,000 heat cycled exhaust manifold bolts. FYI its a manifold bolt so its rusted as well. I eventually broke it on a 15mm caliper mounting bracket bolt that had not been removed in 5-10yrs. A rebuild kit later and it was going strong again.

I have broken both the 3/8 and 1/2 of those extendable ratchets from HF. For home use fine light DIY ok. Heavy DIY not a chance. Professional and it will get you hurt.

 

[Zeroek]

I tell all these guys that are lube techs that want to be full line technicians to hit every flea market and pawn shop they can find. You could build a damn good starter set from flea markets alone. Stuff made in the USA.

 

[shoggoth80]

I wrench. Day in. Day out. Fleet mechanic. 99% of my tools are issued. My issued tools are a mix of SK, Proto, Cman, some Snappy, very little Matco, Blackhawk. Air tools are Sioux, IR, Blue Point.

My employer really likes to give us SK and CMan...though that is less often now that Sears down the street is gone. It all gets the work done. Occasionally, Cman stuff fails. I did a thread on what I've broken and not over the last two years as, well, a pofessional mechanic.

I like going to the OEM for tools over rebrands. I also like choosing my own. A luxury I have in the real world vs. my work world ( issued tools...little to no choice). Always get the best you can of a given tool, but do it wisely with a little research...and doing things like this thread. Shared knowledge makes us better as a whole.

 

[winlinmac]

We all have broken tools somewhere along the lines. I've broken a couple of tools from Mac Tools, but that I know was put through heavy use; therefore, I'll consider your feedback as valid. Cheers

Look I am not going to argue with you. I have broken HF, SO, Expert, Mac, Blackhawk, and Craftsman ratchets. It took a lot more to break the SO and Expert.

I have use my Expert 3/8" to break loose i would say over 1,000 heat cycled exhaust manifold bolts. FYI its a manifold bolt so its rusted as well. I eventually broke it on a 15mm caliper mounting bracket bolt that had not been removed in 5-10yrs. A rebuild kit later and it was going strong again.

I have broken both the 3/8 and 1/2 of those extendable ratchets from HF. For home use fine light DIY ok. Heavy DIY not a chance. Professional and it will get you hurt.

 

[RotaryLove]

Techs spend their entire career to build their toolsets, its not something you can achieve overnight and with a $800 budget.

I've got just north of $3000, but I'm trying to keep investment minimal considering I'm still not sure if professional wrenching is for me.

Other than power tools and torque wrenches I think I've got everything figured out. Still not sure what to use for a box though. I contemplated buying the Harbor Freight 44". If I decide to go to school for auto (I'm not enrolled yet, straight out of high school working full time at the moment) I can upgrade to a proper professional box utilizing student discount. Otherwise, no idea.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Find OEM for specialty tools. GW chrome sockets are fine starting out, sunex impacts are quality, regardless of how long you've been in the trade. Impact guns (1/2 and 3/8) air ratchet (3/8 and 1/4), cordless screwdriver, gearwrench belt tool. VIM makes good quality bits, snap on heavy duty (gold) for torx eventually, you'll use them all day. Buy the specialty tools for VWs that you can afford, makes for better time management. Impact swivels are key.

Pay attention to who is good at tech work, and who are good friends. They're often not the same people. Copy those who do well, and ALWAYS be ready to help a co-worker lift a transmission or hold a pry bar. Favors are nice to have, and you'll need a second set of hands someday too. Study diagrams of suspension when you can, find short-cuts of component removal.

Most suspension/brake work will be all air tool powered. Be fast, but not careless. Stock up on magnetic trays!!! Lay out 3 or 4, fill them with bolts as you go, then work backwards. Socket trays to stay organized! Nothing says "I did a ****** job" like leaving a socket behind.



Oh, and why the hell would anyone need a respirator to do brakes? What year is this?

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I've got just north of $3000, but I'm trying to keep investment minimal considering I'm still not sure if professional wrenching is for me.

Other than power tools and torque wrenches I think I've got everything figured out. Still not sure what to use for a box though. I contemplated buying the Harbor Freight 44". If I decide to go to school for auto (I'm not enrolled yet, straight out of high school working full time at the moment) I can upgrade to a proper professional box utilizing student discount. Otherwise, no idea.

Skip tech school. The "degrees" aren't worth much. Stay in your new position until you can move up (then prepare to invest big), or when you decide you no longer like it. Work full-time, get ASE or manufacturer certifications. Rosedale and the like produce FAR more jiffy lube employees than master techs.

 

[1978silverado]

Harbor junk,craftsman, husky,and kobalt are fine for weekend warriors and guys starting out.I bought $4,000 worth of craftsman stuff when I started working as a service technician at a Ford dealer.as time went on,I quickly realized the value of a quality tool that removes a rusted fastener without rounding off or busting your knuckle. If you are wrenching for a living, snap on,Mac,and Matco are the only way to fly.within five years,I replaced most of the craftsman stuff with quality tool truck stuff that made the jobs go faster and more smoothly.

 

[Skin]

I quickly realized the value of a quality tool that removes a rusted fastener without rounding off or busting your knuckle.

This assertion is wrong in my experience. I've had Craftsman and no name Taiwan sockets fit that extra hundredth tighter than boutique truck brand stuff and work where the others couldn't. Tolerances aren't maintained that close to make the claim that X brand fits better than Y in every case, its quite random. Not much of a surprise considering manufacturing variances that come with mass manufacture and tooling wear.

 

[MDK22]

as time went on,I quickly realized the value of a quality tool that removes a rusted fastener without rounding off or busting your knuckle. If you are wrenching for a living, snap on,Mac,and Matco are the only way to fly.within five years,I replaced most of the craftsman stuff with quality tool truck stuff that made the jobs go faster and more smoothly.

If you will note this same theme has been repeated many times over by more then one person. Anyone that disagrees either does not live/work in the rust belt or does not do this for a living.

I would say for doing the stuff as the original poster listed. Go for pnuematic tools SO MG325 3/8" impact, SO MG725 1/2" impact, IR 1/4" Air Ratchet, IR 3/8" Air Ratchet. Importance is 1/2" impact, 1/4" Air Ratchet, 3/8" Impact, 3/8" Air ratchet. Always oil/grease your air tools and I suggest Lucas Air Tool Oil, IR Air Tool Grease. Also get a flexzilla or goodyear equivalent. Some might disagree with impact and air ratchet choices but, frankly the SO impacts you can feather much easier then an IR. The Air Ratchet IRs are hard to kill and have decent torque. SO are pretty good for Air Ratchets as well. Astro Pnuematic makes some quick ones but, they do not have much torque which can be a good thing. I would almost say not to get 3/8" air ratchet and instead get a 3/8" IR Hammerhead IMpacting ratchet but, they are mighty pricey.

 

[shoggoth80]

Lol. Rust Belt. I am sure that produces its share of challenges. Even out in the Northwet, things get a little screwy from time to time. Penetrating oil is a great thing, but it's still not a cure all. I don't want to imagine how crazy it gets when salted roads get tossed into the mix. My dad had a little Mazda pickup from when we lived in WI, and by the time we got out here, that frame was held together with angle iron.

 

[msgtsmithret]

Don't over think this. Buy a set of basic tools at the flea market or pawn shop or Craigslist. Too many young techs feel that they have to have a huge brand new Snap-on box full of financed tools. Be patient and that will come later. For now buy the basic set then add tools as you learn. You're smart enough to ask for advice so I have to believe you're smart enough to understand the logic of what I'm saying. Sorry tool truck dealers.

 

[sberry]

This assertion is wrong in my experience. I've had Craftsman and no name Taiwan sockets fit that extra hundredth tighter than boutique truck brand stuff and work where the others couldn't. Tolerances aren't maintained that close to make the claim that X brand fits better than Y in every case, its quite random. Not much of a surprise considering manufacturing variances that come with mass manufacture and tooling wear.

I agree. I have a few things for places they are needed, every wrench doesn't need to cost 30$ and no one beats me at rusted stuck and broke with heat and beat on top of it.

Box Stores aka Sears, Lowes, Home Depot are for home owners and light users not mechanics. Some brands cross over aka Vaughan, Gearwrench, Nicholson but, Box Store brands ie Husky, Craftsman, etc are not worth it for an actual mechanic. They are fine for DIY or Weekend Warriors but, as far as for actual Mechanics and Technicians they are ****. You may get away with Box Store Brands for tools rarely used but, even then they are not made of good quality.

Over half the people in this forum do not do this for a living they do it for fun or a hobby. So you need to really look into who is giving you advice.

I do this for a living, pay men to do it.
While I agree the weekenders experience over time doesn't add up to much mine does, has where the tools are issue for lack of better wording. I provide it all in a pool where they get used by several vs one. There are really only a handful of tools see severe service even in the tech world, most are suspension types. Most sit in a box most of the time and any real strain is done with air impact and havnt broke a 3/8 ratchet since I was in my 20;s.
I can see a guy under a hood 50 hrs a week putting some time on a ratchet but a good one can be had at 30$, throw it away in a decade.
I have bee paying attn. and found a couple China wrenches that actually didn't fit well and tossed them out. I think we ran them as backup to impacts for a job. I have a collection of go to pieces, not all of them are top dollar. I do own a small set of Snap Flanks and they have been worth it over the years and were a big problem solver the other day on a quad of all things.
They would not be on the top of my must have list for the OP type, if you don't have a Sears set start there and add a few as needed or as can afford paying attn. to real need vs collecting shiney stuff.

 

[sberry]

Peoples opinions about tools are good but the facts and logic are ****.
While weekend doesn't have the seat time I beat a 3/8 wrench with a 20oz ,nail hammer on a rusted brake bleeder in a give er all deal, a wrench I paid a dollar for 25 yrs ago and seen hundreds of hard cycles. Even though this is the reality the busted knuckle and rounded nut myth and the fear outweigh it. I hear the logic yet that somehow I got screwed, (its still under warranty btw) because,,, it might not be warranties 30 from now, because it was too cheap and wont be worth anything in another 30, any other dumb rational that couldn't really survive cross examination especially if it involved rudimentary math. I actually heard how it was good to spend 10 large more today so that if I wanted to trade it in 10 yrs later it would have 5 more resale.
Had the car sales people sending me fliers urging me to buy a new car because the one I have is depreciating at 150 a month. I am really tempted t stop with that in hand and have him educate me.

 

[JUNK-MAN]

Why not matco or Mac? They are a little cheaper than snap on but still good quality, I know you want cheap but if you want something to last I suggest truck brands. As far a tool box you don't need to spend a ton there, I myself have a snap on but I have cheaper boxes too and they do the same job in fact my snap on box is sitting on the Stanley 5 drawer bottom chest and so far it has held up fine. So just try to get something that works for you and good luck!

 

[sberry]

If a guy really wanted to do this right buy the HF stuff, work like a dog and take 200 a week that might go to the tool set and buy Snapon stock, retire in about 10 yrs.

 

[inline five]

If a guy really wanted to do this right buy the HF stuff, work like a dog and take 200 a week that might go to the tool set and buy Snapon stock, retire in about 10 yrs.

I was going to suggest the same thing. If I were starting out and interested in the maintenance field I would be looking to go to specialized schools that offered much higher pay than a typical mechanic under better working conditions. I work around A&Ps now and they have a much better job with better benefits than your typical dealer mechanic. I'm not sure what their 401k contribution is but ours is 16% company contribution on top of our wages and we work for the same company and are both union.