Epiq from KRL box worth it?

[Banshee365]

Hey fellas. I recently saw the light and picked up a nice used KRL1022 in green. I love the box obviously. I paid $2,250 for it. There is a KERN602 Epiq also in green near me listed for $3k in perfect shape. As much as I'm loving my KRL I have to wonder if it would be worth me trying to get $2,500 or so for my box and trying to get the Epiq for #2,750 or something. That would allow me to upgrade to an Epiq for $250. It would take time to sell my box I think and I'd have to front the money for the Epiq right now.

The other issue is that my KRL has a stainless top and this Epiq doesn't have a top.

Is the Epiq really worth it over the KRL to worry about upgrading or should I spend that money on tools instead. I visited HJE the other day so I'm already a good chunk of change in the hole this month!

 

[fatfillup]

Excellent buy on the krl especially with the stainless top.

As far as upgrading, if the epiq solves a problem your krl doesn't, then do it.

Note, tool boxes can be a slow sell, so be prepared to wait for a buyer.

 

[Mr_B]

If it close might be worth a look and a low ball offer like 2.5 2.6 if you think it going work out better .
Tricky one really as unless you move on it to some extent you don't know how good or cheap the epiq might be and you don't know how easy KRL will sell, doubt shift that quick for good money this time of year .
If you ain't got time and money waste you probably best sticking with krl as no huge advantage changing and comfort yourself filling it with more tools .
situations like this how I got into flipping boxes lol .

 

[Wood_Guy]

Hey fellas. I recently saw the light and picked up a nice used KRL1022 in green. I love the box obviously. I paid $2,250 for it. There is a KERN602 Epiq also in green near me listed for $3k in perfect shape. As much as I'm loving my KRL I have to wonder if it would be worth me trying to get $2,500 or so for my box and trying to get the Epiq for #2,750 or something. That would allow me to upgrade to an Epiq for $250. It would take time to sell my box I think and I'd have to front the money for the Epiq right now.

The other issue is that my KRL has a stainless top and this Epiq doesn't have a top.

Is the Epiq really worth it over the KRL to worry about upgrading or should I spend that money on tools instead. I visited HJE the other day so I'm already a good chunk of change in the hole this month!

Based on your previous post it looks like you're about $2600 into your box with the $350 top.

There are KTL1022 boxes available near you for $1,500. One of which I was considering buying as a third box, since he's down to $1,200 and it's like new (black, blacked out trim, bedliner top).

You would be hard pressed to get $2600 for your box. Obviously, it could happen.

Also, the Epiq boxes have issues intermittently from what I've seen. Numerous complaints on Youtube about the drawers hitting/drooping, and just general problems. I'm not really sure what to make of it considering the overall quality of Snap-on boxes. It could be a design defect, or just abuse.

The Master boxes in the KTL series effectively have all the same benefits of a Epiq, including ISO ride, without having to deal with the price tag. The KRL boxes are likewise tried and true.

Any box without a top has no resale value whatsoever from what I've seen.

 

[michelin]

I’d upgrade. EPIQ is the evolution of the KRL series. You won’t be disappointed

 

[Banshee365]

Based on your previous post it looks like you're about $2600 into your box with the $350 top.

There are KTL1022 boxes available near you for $1,500. One of which I was considering buying as a third box, since he's down to $1,200 and it's like new (black, blacked out trim, bedliner top).

You would be hard pressed to get $2600 for your box. Obviously, it could happen.

Also, the Epiq boxes have issues intermittently from what I've seen. Numerous complaints on Youtube about the drawers hitting/drooping, and just general problems. I'm not really sure what to make of it considering the overall quality of Snap-on boxes. It could be a design defect, or just abuse.

The Master boxes in the KTL series effectively have all the same benefits of a Epiq, including ISO ride, without having to deal with the price tag. The KRL boxes are likewise tried and true.

Any box without a top has no resale value whatsoever from what I've seen.

You may very well be right. Perhaps the $2,250 I gave for my KRL1022 without top wasn't such a great deal. Maybe it was average, but not great. It may very well take longer than I'd expect to sell my KRL after forking the coin for this Epiq. I don't have any complaints on my KRL so perhaps I really don't have a reason to thing about upgrading. I was curious if there was that big of a difference to warrant looking to upgrade.

I did see that KTL1022 in Largo. Nice box.

 

[Wamsutta]

Is the Epiq 60 or 68 inches? The 60 inch Epiqs don't look right. They look ill proportioned.

 

[Banshee365]

Is the Epiq 60 or 68 inches? The 60 inch Epiqs don't look right. They look ill proportioned.

It is 60".

 

[Wamsutta]

It is 60".

Forget it then.

 

[L.Cheapo]

If I were you, I wouldn't upgrade at this time unless you just want the drawer pulls or layout. The Epiq is a great box; so is your 1022. If the Epiq was a 68" version and you needed more space, that would be worthwhile. A 60" Epiq is only ~10% more space than you have now. A 68" would be ~25% more storage than a 1022.

 

[Wood_Guy]

If I were you, I wouldn't upgrade at this time unless you just want the drawer pulls or layout. The Epiq is a great box; so is your 1022. If the Epiq was a 68" version and you needed more space, that would be worthwhile. A 60" Epiq is only ~10% more space than you have now. A 68" would be ~25% more storage than a 1022.

Snap-on likes to use their three dimensional numbers to indicate how much extra their boxes store, but in reality it's difficult to use volumetric dimensions to their full extent.

It's better to go by square inches, than cubic inches.

 

[seber]

Snap-on likes to use their three dimensional numbers to indicate how much extra their boxes store, but in reality it's difficult to use volumetric dimensions to their full extent.

It's better to go by square inches, than cubic inches.

I think both numbers are important.

 

[Wood_Guy]

I think both numbers are important.

I would rate it in this order: square inches, configuration of drawers, and then cubic inches.

 

[Lassen Forge]

I agree - without a top (or top box) you lose a lot of value in resale. Works good on the purchasing end, but then YOU have to figure out what you;re putting on it.

The no top dilemna is easily fixed - you can either order a piece of thick PFTE (think cutting board plastic - we used the same thing for push bumpers on tow trucks, was damned near indestructable) to size, or make your own out of pieces of 1x6 or 2x6 topped with a hunk of plywood. OR order one from your friendly local SO dealer.

I was looking at a KRL that someone did the cutting board plastic top on - tough as nails, apparently took a beating, and looked pretty decent. Just something to think about...

 

[dkroth]

Buy the Epiq and keep the KRL.

Start following the garage sale thread and both boxes will be at capacity in about a month.

You're welcome.






.

 

[Lassen Forge]

Buy the Epiq and keep the KRL.

Start following the garage sale thread and both boxes will be at capacity in about a month.

You're welcome.

.

Aint THAT the truth. . . . . . .

 

[dr_clyde]

I agree - without a top (or top box) you lose a lot of value in resale. Works good on the purchasing end, but then YOU have to figure out what you;re putting on it.

The no top dilemna is easily fixed - you can either order a piece of thick PFTE (think cutting board plastic - we used the same thing for push bumpers on tow trucks, was damned near indestructable) to size, or make your own out of pieces of 1x6 or 2x6 topped with a hunk of plywood. OR order one from your friendly local SO dealer.

I was looking at a KRL that someone did the cutting board plastic top on - tough as nails, apparently took a beating, and looked pretty decent. Just something to think about...

I should probably just point out that you most likely had UHMW Polyethylene bumpers instead of PTFE. PTFE is also known under the trade name Teflon, and would be WILDLY expensive and inappropriate for a push truck bumper or toolbox top.

UHMW is relatively inexpensive and fairly soft and slippery. It would work pretty well if you can tolerate cuts and scrapes on it. It is also NOT heat resistant at all.

 

[Lassen Forge]

I should probably just point out that you most likely had UHMW Polyethylene bumpers instead of PTFE. PTFE is also known under the trade name Teflon, and would be WILDLY expensive and inappropriate for a push truck bumper or toolbox top.

UHMW is relatively inexpensive and fairly soft and slippery. It would work pretty well if you can tolerate cuts and scrapes on it. It is also NOT heat resistant at all.

OOPS - it's HDPE. It's the same stuff as commercial kitchen cutting boards, and it can take one hell of a beating without putting a lot of damage into whatever bumper our guys were shoving with it. The guy with the toolbox top made of the stuff treated it like **** and while it did look well used, it came back for more.

My bad.