Epoxy and Tile (Brands+Prices)

[cortina_gt]

camerojoe,

What is the grey colored material on the lower part of your walls? Looks like it's something that would hold up better than drywall. Floor looks great.

John

You forgot to mention Armstrong VCT tile... 80 cents a square foot in most cases, maybe even less...wears like iron, won't flake or peel, the moon and stars don't have to be positioned just right to apply it, and IMO, looks as good or better than anything else.

 

[jskco]

Free Shipping & Low Price Guarantee: Tiles, Mats, Epoxy and More

We offer a low price guarantee on all of our garage flooring, plus we keep our garage floor tiles in stock. All of our prices are delivered so there are no hidden costs.

Daytona Garage Floor Tiles 2.89/SF
Swisstrax Garage Floor Tile 3.50/SF
EpoArmor Garage Floor Epoxy As low as $1.50/SF
All Better Life Technology Garage Floor Mats and covers are sold at the manufacturers minimum advertised price.

When you join our free, instant approval affiliate program you receive a 5% commission on all purchases from your URL.

Justin Krauss
www.garagefloor.com

 

[speadrider]

You may also want to try and go directly through the manufacturer rather than a web store or dealer. I called Race Deck directlyhttp://www.racedeck.com and they gave me a great price with a guarantee if I found it cheaper.

 

[ZIN]

RACEDECK..@ $2.99 SQ. FT. best price I found ,have you found better?

 

[speadrider]

Motofloor is cheaper, around $2.45 I think? I had a quote from Sport Court and Swiss Trax and RaceDeck beat them both.

 

[MilMod]

trafficMASTER at the Home Depot:
Garage Tiles: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...03+90401+525161&marketID=401&locStoreNum=8125
$29.97 a case (10 sq. ft. per case)

Drain Tiles:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...03+90401+525161&marketID=401&locStoreNum=8125
$29.97 a case (10 sq. ft. per case)

 

[Jason B]

That is gorgeous! Is this your garage? I see you are located in PA?

I just did VCT a the other week, 3 car garage for under $500! I love the look.

After MONTHS of debating what to use for my garage flooring, the decision to do VCT was clear. I'm on the east coast in PA and wanted something that would look great and had a shine. I found 3-4 guys that had the VCT here for over 5 years and theirs had held up great.

I thought about doing the race deck or moto floor, but once you see this VCT with the shine on it, you can't go back. The prep is super easy. No etching, just sweep the floor and clean it off.

I had epoxy in my last house and before I moved it just started to come up under the tires. There is nothing that checkerboard look.

Before:

After:

Before:

After:

For any of you that want to do VCT tile, this is a great write-up to follow!

http://www.burtmanindustries.com/images/garage/vct_install.pdf - print it out and get started!

 

[speadrider]

Careful with hot tires, they will yellow the tiles or any fluids from the car because it may react with the vinyl or the glue. Looks good.

 

[Jason B]

Any way to help revent that? Anything I can put on the tiles in that area?

 

[patd]

I just saw that Costco now has a professional epoxy floor installation program in the Seattle/Metropolitan area. A granite style floor (the one with colored chips and clear coat) can be installed by a professional installer for under $3 a sq/ft.

 

[P-51]

I'd just like to add in here a note about usage on the ArmorSeal 1000HF, because I had read BMWPower's notes, and couldn't really figure out how much I was going to need.

Here's what my experience was:

Floor is just under 500 sq/ft. I mixed 2 kits, so 4 gallons of mixed product total for my first coat. I put it on very thick, which caused some problems which I've posted about, and still had about a gallon left over. So, I figure my actual usage was 166sqft/G plus 1 gallon wasted for the first coat. In hindsight, or to do it again, I would only mix 1 kit for this floor, which would have given me about 250sqft/G. This is within application window for the product, but it's important to note that the first coat is going to use more. So, if you're targetting the lower end of the application range on a first coat, note that you're going to have to conciously do a REALLY thin coat, or you'll run out before the end. There's no way you could put down 250sqft/G on bare concrete and get away with only one coat. Just not going to happen. So plan on two coats, which really doubles the cost of putting the floor down.

Second coat, I mixed 1 kit which gave me 2 Gal's of product. I put it down moderately thick, and I was left with about a liter at the end. That meant an application rate of 250 sqft/gal. Still at the lower end of the application range.

So, my actual usage was about 3 kits, so 6 gallons of mix for two coats on 500 sq.ft. Total cost to put the floor down was about $450/6 Gal for 500sqft, or about $0.90/sq.ft. for the whole job.

As noted, I should have only used 1 kit on the first coat. That would have put me around 4Gal/500sq.ft. which would have cost $0.60/sqft total. However, with such a thin spread rate on the first coat, I'd probably recommend going for a full 3 coats anyway, which puts us back up at $0.90 for the job.

 

[wrenchbender]

PVC Floor Tiles - Easy Install - Easy Trim

http://www.system7na.com/flooring.php

PVC- 10 colors - next day delivery via UPS
Diamond Plate = from 2.52 sq ft to $2.99 (depends on color)
Coin Pattern = from $2.76 sq ft to $3.25 ( "" "" "" "" "" )
Home style, Slate look from $2.64 sq ft to $3.12 ( "" "" "" )

 

[wyowrx]

I will be using Tarkett Azrock "VET" (vinyl enhanced tile), it is VCT with an extra urethane wear layer, yet it is not that slick. I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Price is a lot less than "race deck"

http://www.tarkett-commercial.com/floors/site/en-us/topic/azrock/offer.asp
"cortinastone" I went with STO-14.

Here's a pic of it laid out:

 

[connorB]

P-51

Did you read the spec sheet on the product to see what the "wet film thickness" is calling for per product. What % to solids did the product have so you can achieve the correct "DFT"? Did you use a wft gague during application for wft to achieve the "dry film thickness" to the spec sheet. Two part systems will fail in a short life due to incorrect application. My 2 cents.

Glenn

 

[JohnS]

I am with a General Contractor based in North Carolina. We recently completed construction of two new dealerships (one Ford, one Chrysler). In both buildings the Design Team specified Sherwin Williams Epoxy. Results have been excellent - very good appearance and durability.

A couple of notes:

The initial moisture test is important. Make sure you are not getting
excessive water vapor through the concrete. If you do not know how to
do the test get some help. Otherwise the application can fail.

Prep the concrete with a mild acid wash. SW carries the correct product.

Cut the first coat of epoxy per SW recommendations. The second coat
should be full strength. You can also purchase steel fines from SW to be mixed into the top coat - provides anti slip protection without compromising the epoxy
coating.

 

[premierguy]

I just got a quote a couple of days ago. 825 sq ft = $2.99 shipped. This does not include the tapered edges for the garage door entrance. The edges are 12" x 3" and sell for $2 each.

I think I'll be going with something else.

With the risk of spillage becoming smelly over time w/o the availability to easily clean….

 

[cyberslider]

I bought the kit sold at Costco made by H & C Products Group, better known as shield-crete. It has a part A (epoxy base) & part B (activator). It seemed to go down pretty well. I needed 5 kits to do 1000 sq ft. Each kit covers 200-250 sq ft.

I am having some regrets for not researching more and discovering that the waterbased epoxy is somewhat inferior to the petroleum based product. I will have to be a little more careful in how I treat it.

After saying all that, I have what I have. I now want to put down a clear glaze coat over the top of my epoxy floor (paint chips applied in epoxy). I purchased the same brand Shield-Crete acrlic clear glaze from Sherwin Williams but have not yet installed it. It is $50 per gallon and covers 400 sq ft. If I use this I will most likely put on two coats. The container says it is a low VOC, one component clear waterborne acrylic sealer.

Before I do it I wanted to see if anyone had recommendations for a superior product that would protect my floor better than the clear glaze I have purchased. I also would want to make sure it is compatible with my existing epoxy base coat. I will need to add the non-slip material to my glaze coat since I chose not to in the epoxy base.

Look forward to any helpful suggestions!

 

[SUPERFORD]

am I missing something???

I'm new around here, but I'm curious why "Wolverine Coatings" that I hear so much about on this forum, is not listed on this post?

???

 

[AlphaGarage]

am I missing something???

I'm new around here, but I'm curious why "Wolverine Coatings" that I hear so much about on this forum, is not listed on this post?

???

I just noticed that also!

Give me a day or two and I'll remedy that oversight.

Wolverine Coatings Corporation is a development firm that also does a fair amount of consulting work in the coatings industry. WCC also manufactures their own products as well as produces material that's relabeled for 3rd party distribution. Up until recently WCC has supplied mostly industrial accounts.

A year or so ago they had an arrangement where they would sell off-spec material to another distributer, who would the retail it to consumer. "Off-spec" generally meant product where the color wasn't the exact right tint. That arrangement expired earlier this year. About the same time the reason for that arrangement also went away. WCC has done a lot of work to tweak and perfect their manufacturing process, and as a result they don't have an issue with the tint anymore.

At that point WCC was not interested in dealing directly with DIY and retail accounts. The demand for their product and consulting services is more than enough to keep them busy. But largely due to the positive experiences they had on this forum they didn't completely pull that plug.

After some thought, research, and deliberation WCC decided to continue offering the product to the consumer market, but instead of doing it directly they contracted with our company, AlphaGarage, to handle marketing, sales and support.

And that brings us up to today. We're working to get all the pieces in place, while at the same time taking orders from anyone who wants to improve their floor.

So why should you consider Wolverine Coatings for your project? I'll state our case later.

 

[steve911]

I really like the way that the VCT tiles look. I believe that there might be an issue with the adshesive and the tle when it gets cold in the winter here in Wisconsin. I dont recall where I heard it, but VCT isnt recommended for area that might freeze.

Can anyone positively confirm or deny?

thanks

 

[Flash21]

...
So why should you consider Wolverine Coatings for your project? I'll state our case later.

AG - Have you stated your case elsewhere in the forum? If so, can you point me to it?

 

[AlphaGarage]

AG - Have you stated your case elsewhere in the forum? If so, can you point me to it?

I hope to get to that soon, but it's not high on the list of things to do.

Plus to be honest I don't know if I can add much or do a better job than the reviews and cases already posted by other members of the forum who have used Wolverine products. They have done a great service by sharing their experiences and detailing the application process. The tips and pointers they've published will help anyone who's about to improve their own floors.

But I can see the benefits of compiling that scattered info into a single post, and I will get to it eventually. In the meantime if you have any specific questions I always try to respond promptly.

 

[Oil Guy]

Im new so dont beat me up on this one. My job takes me into all sorts of service centers. From dealerships to garages to speed shops to quick lubes. I seldom see a painted (epoxy) floor that has held up long term and most suffer from fading with direct sun. I think the idea of the plastic tiles is not to practical for someone has mom pulling in and out of the garage. I have seen rubber floors that tend to peal or wrinkle. SOOOOOOOO heres my question. Why has no one wrote that they have laid ceramic or porclein tile. (I do know one is stronger than the other). I have had quotes of $4 - $7 ft. for epoxy surfaces. Im sure many of you know how to set tile so why has this not been discussed. I have seen texured tile (non slip) and there are always close outs. Enough is enough anyone have comments? Be nice please

 

[vette-kid]

Im new so dont beat me up on this one. My job takes me into all sorts of service centers. From dealerships to garages to speed shops to quick lubes. I seldom see a painted (epoxy) floor that has held up long term and most suffer from fading with direct sun. I think the idea of the plastic tiles is not to practical for someone has mom pulling in and out of the garage. I have seen rubber floors that tend to peal or wrinkle. SOOOOOOOO heres my question. Why has no one wrote that they have laid ceramic or porclein tile. (I do know one is stronger than the other). I have had quotes of $4 - $7 ft. for epoxy surfaces. Im sure many of you know how to set tile so why has this not been discussed. I have seen texured tile (non slip) and there are always close outs. Enough is enough anyone have comments? Be nice please

I too am new here, and have been researching till my eyes hurt to find the perfect floor covering for me. Having installed tile for a few years (it paid the college bills...or at least the bar tabs) I dont think its a very good idea for a garage. While some tiles are pretty hard and if laid properly (good even spread of mortar) they can hold up to a good amount of abuse, heavy items like hammers and other hand tools, dropped from waist high WILL chip and break tiles. Another issue I see is that spills (oil, brake/trans fluid etc) will stain your grout joints pretty bad. Yes they make sealers that are supposed to prevent this, but I have never seen one that works 100%. they all get stained after a while. Also, rolling around on a creaper or draging a floor jack will almost certainly scratch the tile surface. And the grout joints would make it difficult to roll on a creeper. It would be pretty annoying to get stuck every 12 inches! If anyone knows about a different type of tile please let us know, I would be interested if I found a tile that could hold up.

 

[GarageGod]

here are a couple more flooring options:

SpeedFloor: plastic interlocking tiles
http://www.diamondlifegear.com/speedfloor.html
$5/sf

XFloor: metal interlocking tiles
http://www.diamondlifegear.com/xfloor.htm
$10/sf

MaxTile: self-adhering metal tiles
http://www.diamondlifegear.com/maxtileflooring.html
$6.50/sf

TuffCarpet: self-adhering carpet squares
http://www.diamondlifegear.com/tuffcarpet.html
$3/sf

 

[jermar]

I know this is an epoxy thread, but if you are inclined to get tiles, Racedeck is the way to go. I've had mine for four years. Sure, there are some tire marks where you turn the wheel, but overall I am very pleased. One day project and no smell, or waiting period. I drop hammers, and use a mechanic's creeper all the time.

http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a153/jermar/?action=view&current=86445cef.jpg

 

[RAN]

Another Swiss brand available. Claims to be the best in the industry.

www.swissfloors.com

 

[RAN]

Ceramic and similar will not necessarily hold up to the weight. Any hairline cracks in the slab can crack the tile. A good question but not a practical solution.

Run4Floor

 

[GarageStyle]

Don't forget about Swisstrax modular tiles. Not sure about their costs though...

 

[GarageStyle]

Oh, also, Behr Paints has a garage floor coating now too!

 

[FlaJunkie]

Oh I am so tired of examining all of the different coating options! What a headache!

I have a 680 sq ft steel building I had built to restore my Camaro in. My floor was 'smoothed' out when it was poured but has no sealants on it. There is direct eastern sun exposure for about half the morning. It's been over 60 days since it was poured.

I want to coat the floor with these requirements:
1) I want the best, but easiest floor prep instructions
2) I want a tan floor with colored flakes
3) I want to do it myself
4) I want the proper 'thickness'
5) I want to embed a decal in the floor
6) I want good UV protection
7) I want the very best hot tire, chemical resistant coating
8) I don't want to pay more than $1200 for it
9) I want a glossy floor look
10) I want to scream

I have read company websites and this one until my eyes have glazed over. Wait! That's it! Glaze over the floor! ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha

Any suggestions? I'll listen to em' all!

 

[AlphaGarage]

I want to coat the floor with these requirements:
1) I want the best, but easiest floor prep instructions
2) I want a tan floor with colored flakes
3) I want to do it myself
4) I want the proper 'thickness'
5) I want to embed a decal in the floor
6) I want good UV protection
7) I want the very best hot tire, chemical resistant coating
8) I don't want to pay more than $1200 for it
9) I want a glossy floor look
10) I want to scream

We'll take a shot at it...

To coat it to our recomendations for home and medium duty shop floors - We'd spec 5 mils of BondTite 1101 for primer coat, 12 mils of LiquaTile 1184 for the body coat, and 3.2 mils (dry) of EnduraShield for UV resistant clear coat. Factoring in waste and packaging that would be 3 gallons of BondTite 101, 6 gallons of LiquaTile 1184, and 1.875 gallons of EnduraShield 2254. In dollars and cents? $225 + 450 + 314 = 989. That would leave $211 for flakes & decal.

Your finished system would be a nominal 25.20 mils thick. It will resist hot tire pick-up, brake fluids, oils, etc.

We can help you source the decal, although it's often cheaper to find them locally. I like the ones that are perforated for window use, the holes allow the epoxy layers to adhere to each other rather than to just vinyl.

I really like embedded artwork and would love to assist you on your project.

 

[waltereo]

Do not use any "Water based" epoxy product on your floor...... They will not last and will peal in 1 to 3 years... I repair appoximately 5 to 10 jobs a year because the owner used a water based epoxy and it has failed.

spend the extra money on a quality petroleum based epoxy product.

Even if the epoxy coat is a 2 part like the Rustoleum listed above ???

thanks

 

[TLMitchell]

This has been a long time coming. It will be a work in progress and if you guys know of any brands I am missing on here please post a link so I can add them.

Here's a link to a epoxy flooring provider that has what appears to be a product worthy of consideration. I've been in touch with these folks and their customer service efforts are exemplory putting me in touch with customers and pointing me towards finished products for evaluation.

http://www.armorcoat.com/

TL

 

[romelle]

I went to purchase U-Coat-It this year, after having done my research last year, and learned the dealer has switched to a different product. For DIY it is www.rocksolidfloors.com, and for having someone else apply it is www.citadelfloors.com. The product is polyurea, and the claims are that it won't yellow and is stronger than the epoxy U-Coat-It. Also can apply in lower temperatures and it sets up faster so the whole process can be done in a day.

I've read until I'm cross-eyed, emailed both companies, etc. Anybody else have any experience with the RockSolid/Citadel product? I'd really appreciate hearing of any experiences, good or bad. (I did find and read the thread by sixty4 after I posted this.)

Thank you,
Romelle

 

[tgeeter]

Having my swisstrax flooring installed this week in my 50x34 garage. Scheduled to appear in several magazines if it turn out good. Any pics of swisstrax?

 

[pixelhaus]

hello,
I have some Resilia tiles that i am not using. if anyone is interested in them, I'll give them a great deal. If you have not heard about these, they really are great tiles made of flexible PVC. http://www.floorsurfaces.com

I have the following:

all cross grid - fine texture

Red - Qty. 88*
List $330
Sell $200

Black - Qty. 129*
List $483.75
Sell $350

or all for $500

ALSO

have a mis-sized run of 117 that are 1/16" short of the 12"x12"
great if you had a small area that you would like to floor.
Black - Qty 117*
List $438.75
Sell $200

WILL SELL ALL FOR $600 plus shipping

located in Raleigh, NC pick up would be preferred.

 

[JCQuick]

I used U-coat it when i built my new house it's been fine and I have dumpe everything on it

 

[LAWFISH]

OK I was confused on what I wabted before I read this thread. Now that I have read it, I am even more confused.

I used a two part epoxy years ago when the concrete was new and clean. It didnt last. Now I have the old stuff down and its ugly. So I am thinking I will have to bite the bullet and go race deck or something that I can just lay on top of the concrete. Maybe the VCT if I like the look when I go check it out.
Are there Racedeck suppliers out west. I am south of Reno approx 1 1/2 hours, and believe it would save some $ to pick it up???

I have a 28x32 front shop area attached to 2500 sq ft that I wont be doing at all.

Dave.

 

[Jason B]

You can put the VCT right over it, that's the beauty, virtually no prep. Just make sure it's not dusty and sweep and rinse it out good. The VCT will stick to anything, no joke, plus you'll save a TON. My 3 car garage will all materials needed cost about $425.