epoxy bar top pour

[Jumpsuit]

I have been messing around with epoxy finishes a bit and I've done some pours on small plaque-like objects. One thing definitely I have figured out is you can't do a thick covering all at once. 1/16-1/8" thickness is good. or do the pour twice if you want a thicker, glassier look.

I am going to do a table top pour, about 14" by 35". It's west system 105 + 207 so we're talking about $50 worth of product for this pour (two layers, $25 each), at the size B (gallon of 105) rate.

I am wondering some opinion on the taping. The West web page for West states: "Dam the perimeter to prevent drainage. Duct tape around the bottom edge of the table top will prevent the epoxy from dripping." So if I understand correctly you best tape against the sides to corral that drippy epoxy in, which is the same I've done with my experiments.

How do you break the top edge? and when? I don't like what happens when I sand the epoxy, It deadens the luster, but maybe I am using the wrong sandpaper. I'm thinking knife after the epoxy has set up a day or two. But anyone use a router? And when?

I have a tip too for the West 207. It's supposed to cure clear but there is some yellowing with raw wood. A couple of coats of polyacrylic under the epoxy seems to minimize this. One more question what does UV do to epoxy? If there is a lot of light in the room the table is in, will this be a long-term concern, or is this more an outside 24-7 concern?

 

[Hornman]

The West tech specs state that 207 has uv inhibitors, so you should be good to go. The primary use of the West epoxies is building boats which live outside.

If you have a square edge on that tabletop, why don't you build a dam on the side spaced out 1/8 inch to coat the edges at the same time as the top? You will have to use a smooth surface material like melamine and mold release, but you will get the sides coated at the same time as the top. You will have to level the corner and buff it, but you have to do that no matter what you do.

 

[Daveo]

You can sand that stuff and polish it just like car paints. I started sanding on a project of mine with 180 and went all the way to 2000 grit and polished it with rubbing compound and a buffer...

 

[ilovevocs]

I have done bar and table tops with envirotex lite. Just mix, pour, and use a heat gun to get the air bubbles out. Its a product designed specifically for this application. Not familiar with the products you are using.

If I dam the edge I have to sand and use a second application less the dam. Final application I just let it drip off the sides and brush the bottom as it is setting to keep the drips under control. The envirotex is very viscous, i typically do it in one application without daming the sides. Last table top i did was roughly 3' by 8'. Ill brush the same product on other components as well; e.g. legs, sides, bottom. It flows out well after it is brushed.

 

[jhelrey]

My buddy did one. He used beer bottle caps. The issue he ran into was air bubbles were trapped under the caps and slowly bubbled up when the epoxy was drying. He was bummed big time.

 

[rockwithjason]

My buddy did one. He used beer bottle caps. The issue he ran into was air bubbles were trapped under the caps and slowly bubbled up when the epoxy was drying. He was bummed big time.

you have to glue them down first

 

[Slowboat]

I have spent a bunch of time with 207, and it can be a challenge. You will want to get the bar top nice an warm (say 85-90 degrees) and stabilize at that temp before you start the pour. Then let it cool down and start pouring. 207 wants to cure at around 80 degrees. The idea behind the pre-heat is that otherwise you will get a ton of bubbles/outgassing of the wood (the epoxy cure generates more heat that will cause this).

It has fair UV resistance - I did the floorboards in my boat (interior cabin) that get some sun and they are doing well after a few years. It also depends how much UV dampening the windows are doing.

There are some surfboard epoxies that are clearer and have more UV protection. http://www.prosetepoxy.com/surfboard_epoxies.html are also made by Gougeon Brothers (West System), and might be a better bet.

 

[Jumpsuit]

A lot of good ideas here. The West website (http://www.westsystem.com/ss/table-top-applications/) advocates warming up the two parts of the epoxy prior to mixing to about 80-90 degrees. I just stick the containers in the oven on warm for about 10 minutes prior to mixing. This gets the epoxy to flow well so it settles to a flat surface. Also means much of it will pour over the edge without damming. So damming it will be, although I like the idea of doing a final coat without damming, just a lite coat.

I think I have the hang of air bubbles, you must do a light seal coat first (For this project I will do two coats of polycrylic first to prevent ambering the raw woodgrain). Then any bubbles that appear, you hang around and scare them out of there with a wave of a propane torch (on very low). I tried a heat gun but didn't like it, because it blows the epoxy around in waves.

The question I still have is varnishing. The 207 spec sheet says "An ultraviolet inhibitor in 207 helps provide a beautiful, long lasting finish when used with quality UV filtering varnish." I guess the question is which varnish. I am thinking of Z spar captain's matte.

 

[trainer]

I've built a few cedar/ epoxy canoes, and done a few tabletops with the leftover material.
I've used Raka materials http://www.raka.com. I like it because it's much thinner than west and bubble are not a problem once the wood is sealed.
I'd suggest that you use epoxy to seal the surface first. It doesn't take very much, just pour a few ounces onto the surface and spread it around with a plastic squeegee, like a bondo applicator.
When it cures, you can sand the top smooth and proceed with your pour.

I'd also suggest that you seal the bottom and sides to prevent warping when the humidity changes.

You'll need to sand to remove any blush before you varnish so that it will adhere properly. 180-220 grit is ok. The varnish brings the scuffed surface up clear again.

You really only need spar varnish if its going to be in the sunlight or under some unusually strong lighting.

I've used varathane poly followed by a coat of minwax finishing wax on a table top that has been used daily for 5 years. It still looks great.

 

[Slowboat]

As trainer mentioned, I wouldn't use a polycrylic to first cote, as your bond to the wood will only be as good as the polycrylic, which is way worse than the epoxy bond. Stick with all epoxy, and maybe even hot coating the two layers (for a chemical, rather than a physical bond) while the first is still curing.

Just sanding won't remove the blush. You need to scrub using a brillo pad and water to remove it. Believe me, I have had huge problems with blush keeping a top layer from curing/bonding.

For your bartop I would probably recommend a 2-part UV blocker/clear, rather than a more traditional varnish, as it will be much harder and more scratch resistant.

Good luck!

 

[trainer]

My go-to epoxy has been Raka 127 resin with 350 slow non-blush hardener. You can recoat within 8 hours without sanding for a chemical bond or after a few days with sanding for a mechanical bond. I've never had a problem with either method.

Raka has a much lower viscosity than west, so theres no need to warm it to get it to flow. Remember that when you heat epoxy, you shorten the working time substantially.

Blush has never been an issue with me, but for other hardeners, they recommend scrubbing with a powdered clenser like ajax or comet.