Epoxy-Coat Bubbles

[Czcon1]

+I followed each step of the process to the fullest (used diamond bit to get old paint off/etched the slab/filled holes with epoxy shield patch repair). I etched yesterday early in the day and today I began the last step of my process. I put down the epoxy. I did see some bubbles come up, rolled them out and then finally spread the flakes. Apparently I did not wait long enough because there was massive outgassing happening as you will by the pictures. Now, I need to know what do next? Do I sand out the bubbles and get another kit? If I sand out the bubbles, can I just use another coat of expoxy coat? Will more bubbles come up? Any help would be appreciated.

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[LegacyIndustrial]

Was primer used?
You will have to screen the floor once cured and recoat.

The second coat should be ok as your first coat served as the primer.

 

[Czcon1]

Was primer used?
You will have to screen the floor once cured and recoat.

The second coat should be ok as your first coat served as the primer.

No primer used, what is and how do you screen the floor? If you pop a bubble there's just bare concrete in it, so wouldn't re coating just do the same thing?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

A wood floor screening unit would work. This is the same process when re-coating a wood floor. If you see bare concrete then yes, prime with a thin mil primer and recoat.
Once screening is complete, solvent wipe the dust off, then prime.

Lastly, I forgot to ask, did you check for moisture prior? What temp was the air and what time did you coat? Where do you live?

 

[Czcon1]

Temp was about 70 and it was around 9:30am and I will live in NY. So your saying I need to screen, prime then recoat? Or skip the priming. Floor probably had moisture in it from the cleaning the day before.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Holy smokes....Are you serious?
Yes, 100 percent solids epoxy and water don't like each other at all.
There is your culprit.

Call Christine on Monday, she may give you a mercy deal.

 

[Czcon1]

Holy smokes....Are you serious?
Yes, 100 percent solids epoxy and water don't like each other at all.
There is your culprit.

Call Christine on Monday, she may give you a mercy deal.

The floor looked dry to me, didn't know I was soposed to wait three or more days. Anyhow I F up, now I need to fix it.
When I screen should I use a 60 grit ?
Should I use a primer and if so what, anything from Lowes or HD?
Then I just go over the top of it again?
Thanks for any help.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Yes, a 60 grit screen should shave the craters.
Wipe the floor down with denatured floor, prime and Recoat.
This is an epoxy-coat project so please contact them for product recommendations.
I doubt anything in a big- box will be useful.

Lastly, you should Recoat at 100 sq ft per gal or less to avoid depressions from the craters.

 

[pauloman]

Some 100% solids epoxies can actually be applied underwater or to wet surfaces. Consider epoxy paints used in manholes, sewers, water water facilities, emergency boat repair. Moisture isn't necessarily the problem, but also the not cause of the bubbles.

Note those folks use a cycloalphatic epoxy which is more moisture tolerant than other epoxies (but again, the the issue here, indeed no reason for cyclo epoxies on floors)

16 mil thickness (the 100 sf per gallon) mentioned above is still very thick and you will get crater depressions. Actually the epoxies all sort of go down at about the same coverage rate (varies from product to product of course) no matter who puts it down.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Some 100% solids epoxies can actually be applied underwater or to wet surfaces. Consider epoxy paints used in manholes, sewers, water water facilities, emergency boat repair. Moisture isn't necessarily the problem, but also the not cause of the bubbles.

Note those folks use a cycloalphatic epoxy which is more moisture tolerant than other epoxies (but again, the the issue here, indeed no reason for cyclo epoxies on floors)

16 mil thickness (the 100 sf per gallon) mentioned above is still very thick and you will get crater depressions. Actually the epoxies all sort of go down at about the same coverage rate (varies from product to product of course) no matter who puts it down.

I was going to recommend pulling the epoxy-coat tight over the craters as his primer, to fill the craters , but he needs to work out his tolerance for effort, budget and end-result.

Again, a chat with EC is the best medicine at this point.

 

[rugerlady]

I don't believe I have talked to this customer. Call me.

 

[Czcon1]

I don't believe I have talked to this customer. Call me.

I called on Monday and asked how to repair, was told to sand and recoat no primer.

 

[tncatadjuster]

Was a fan used during or after application? That is a serious amount of outgassing.

 

[Czcon1]

Was a fan used during or after application? That is a serious amount of outgassing.

I was using a leaf blower during and back rolling, then went out for a couple of hours and many more popped up. I just want to make sure after I sand again and recoat that it won't happen again. I plan on doing it again the weekend after next.

 

[tncatadjuster]

That could be your problem, leaf blower for applying flakes or for air movement over floor?

 

[rugerlady]

You should definitely not have outgassing on the second coat.

 

[AlphaGarage]

We always recommend applying the primer late in the day, when temps are falling. There's a lot less chance of bubbles forming since the air isn't expanding due to rising temps.

BTW. If after you sand you notice that there's bare concrete, then I'd be concerned that there's still potential of out-gassing and more bubbles in subsequent coats applied in the same conditions. Why wouldn't there be? It's not as if there's a finite amount of air in the concrete and that the initial coat eliminated all of it.

Are far as moisture... If the coating needs to be applied on a dry floor - then yes - one day usually isn't going to be enough time to dry out the concrete. Concrete's like a sponge, it will look dry after a few hours but it's no where near being bone dry yet. However, it's important to note that not all coatings are that moisture sensitive. Our primer can be applied even if the floor still looks damp.

 

[Czcon1]

BTW. If after you sand you notice that there's bare concrete, then I'd be concerned that there's still potential of out-gassing and more bubbles in subsequent coats applied in the same conditions. Why wouldn't there be? It's not as if there's a finite amount of air in the concrete and that the initial coat eliminated all of it.

That's what I'm afraid of, looking at them everyone has at least a small hole where the gas was coming through. Some might be down to the cement, I'll check better when I sand this weekend. I was told I don't need a primer and I waited for two weeks to recoat . I'll be pissed if it bubbles again.

 

[c7fx]

I had the same problem. I repainted mine in sections since when mine bubbled the first time I could not reach the problem areas. I did have a few areas that did bubble but was easily fixed with another back roll.

One issue have now is that the floor chips easily. I wonder if its because the epoxy is too thick. Luckily I have extra material so when it does chip I can repair it

 

[5mall5nail5]

Wow man, that is tough! Good luck with the repair.

 

[bigbadktm]

I had the same problem. I repainted mine in sections since when mine bubbled the first time I could not reach the problem areas. I did have a few areas that did bubble but was easily fixed with another back roll.

One issue have now is that the floor chips easily. I wonder if its because the epoxy is too thick. Luckily I have extra material so when it does chip I can repair it

When it chips, is there concrete dust on the back of the chip? The problem may not be the epoxy, but the concrete itself. Had a garage floor do that to me once, the epoxy never bonded because the problems with the concrete. With a fine cup 7" grinder, the concrete just flew apart.

 

[c7fx]

I will have to look next time. I usually try and pull all loose epoxy up and the borders seem to have a good bond to the epoxy. The epoxy just seems to just crack apart.

 

[bigbadktm]

Do you happen to have any fuzz around the garage, looks like a tuft of cotton? Efflorescence may be the culprit there. For some reason it will pop the epoxy off, and when you scrape right next to it, it's solid. Just the path of least resistance.

 

[rugerlady]

I will have to look next time. I usually try and pull all loose epoxy up and the borders seem to have a good bond to the epoxy. The epoxy just seems to just crack apart.

Call me, I want to see your floor.

 

[c7fx]

Call me, I want to see your floor.

what do you want to see?